• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.223-237
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• 2015

This study is to compare the pattern making methods of men's jeans and to analyze sizes of parts while also evaluating the appearance and fit according to a 3D virtual garment simulation. Five types of patterns are selected for the analysis. For the appearance evaluation, the study conducted a virtual clothing simulation, created a perspective drawing, and applied Clothing pressure to each test outfit. First, according to the pattern comparisons, A and D had the shortest crotch length, while B had the longest; B had the narrowest crotch width, while C had the widest; C had the greatest waist circumference, and B had the smallest; C had the greatest knee and hem circumference, while E had the smallest. Second, according to the appearance evaluation, E pants had the highest rating overall for the waist, crotch, knee, and hem comfort; A pants had the highest rating for the yoke line end and placement; and C pants had the highest rating for the side seam line. According to the correlation analysis, ease of the waist, hips, hem and thighs were important factors (in that order) in determining the overall appearance of the jean pants.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.105-115
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• 2000

This study was intended to find body pattern of middle aged women and make new experimental basic pattern for upper-half of the body for them. This experimental pattern on the idea of body pattern analysis was prepared. For experimental pattern, the prototype basic model was chosen with the best qualified D model from the four meaningful existing patterns. After several steps of correction experimental pattern was made. Comparing with basic D model, the new experimental pattern composed of additional bust girth by 1cm, wider back waist by 0.5cm than front waist and additional armhole by 0.5cm keeping the same size for back and front widths. Making a shoulder line up by 3cm the armhole became deeper accordingly and the room for girth has been transferred to length. Front neck girth became deeper downward but back neck girth risen a little bit. Side line of the bodice formed with inward slope taking from the waist line by 2cm. Instead of dart, modified side line slope was more practical by its function and appearance. Abdominal girth which is lower than waist girth by 8.5cm kept in same size with bust girth. Then abdominal girth became more comfortable. New experimental pattern with changes has been examined in function and appearance. In conclusion, the new experimental basic pattern for the middle-aged women has been proved more practical for both in bodice and sleeve than other existing ones in terms of function and appearance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.106-122
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• 2021

This study confirmed the mechanical properties of an auxetic re-entrant pattern prepared using 3D printing technology and its composite fabric with neoprene for the production of functional auxetic patterns/textiles for safety shoes. Samples were prepared by the tilt angle of a re-entrant pattern of 0°, 30°, 45°, 60° and 90°, and then analyzed using Poisson's ratio, bending, compression, and tensile properties. A 3D printed auxetic re-entrant pattern (3DP-RE) and its composite fabric (3DP-RE/NP) showed a negative Poisson's ratio in all tilting angles that indicated auxetic properties. The results of the bending property shown that strength of 3DP-RE/NP was 1.5 times lower than NP, but the strain improved 2.0 times. It was confirmed that the deformation of 3DP-RE/NP is possible with a low load. Each sample type of compression behavior indicated similar regardless of the tilting angles; in addition, the compression toughness of 3DP-RE/NP increased 1.2 times compared with NP. In the case of tensile properties, 3DP-RE and 3DP-RE/NP were affected by the tilting angle, samples with 90° (the opposite of load direction) showed best tensile property and toughness. 3DP-RE/NP indicated improved bending, compression, and tensile properties.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.46 no.9
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• pp.137-146
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• 2008

This study was conducted in order to spread out lower body 3D scan data of men in their twenties. The aim was to achieve slacks pattern with ease allowance through comparison with existing flat patterns. For conversion of 3D scan data into 20 pattern, reference lines were established by using Rapid Foam in 3D shape analysis software. 2C-AN program and Yuka CAD were used to convert 20 pattern earned with straight posture of 3D scan data into slacks pattern by using Triangle Simplification & Runge-Kutta Method. In order to achieve this we needed to set a line 9cm below the hip line, to array vertex of each block to crease line while maintaining the horizontal line. And then we needed to set ease allowance in back crotch and to set waist circumference or hip circumference ease allowance in side seam of slacks. Results showed that long front crotch length can be achieved if 3D scan data is compared with 20 existing flat pattern. Slacks pattern that raise front crotch by about 1.5cm compared to back crotch and also possess ease allowance in back crotch area are great in appearance evaluation.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.399-409
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to compare how the number of panels, the amount of flare and the flare starting point affect the silhouette of the gored skirt. This study consisted of (1) creation of 3D body representations (2) comparison of silhouette between 3D virtual gored skirt and actual gored skirt by pilot experiment (3) pattern drafting of twenty-seven different gored skirts for 3D body representations (4) a computer simulation of twenty-seven different gored skirts for visualization and assessment (5) visual inspection of twenty-seven different 3D virtual gored skirts (6) comparison of ham shapes and measurements for the node and size analysis. A visual inspection of twenty-seven different 3D virtual gored skirts showed clear differences by the amount of flare and the flare starting point ; however, there was notably less difference in the width of ham among six-piece, eight-piece and ten-piece panels. This demonstrated that there was less influence on the number of panels than the amount of flare width of ham and extent of ham for the 3D virtual gored skirt.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.124-140
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• 2023

This study analyzes traditional women's Hu costumes of the Tang dynasty, and deploys a creative fashion design to converge contemporary and traditional styles. In this costume, women wear a robe with striped or plain patterns in the lower part of the pants, and it appears frequently in red and yellow colors. Depending on the sleeve, it is either a round collar or a turn down collar robe. In the Hu hat, the huntuomao and juanyanxumao were leather and mili and weimao were used to prevent the sand from flowing. This study uses the CLO 3D program with the "moment" theme based on the Hu costume for women to deploy 4 pairs of fashion design and to produce works for 2 pairs. The 3D virtual clothing program demonstrates important effects in design deployment and pattern arrangement through its efficiency and convenience of clothing production. The CLO 3D program was closely combined with the 2D design and the 3D affect, and it heightened the efficiency in saving the processing time and energy of the sample clothes. Through facilitating the 3D digital fashion design, the production may reduce time needed and contribute to an effective economy, and it may compare digital fashion design to actual products as well as illustrate the potential of digital fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.6
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• pp.1074-1087
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• 2022

This study reports an optimization of a 3D printed wrist brace (WB) for various tilting angles (0°, 45°, 90°) of the re-entrant (RE) pattern and thickness (2 mm, 4 mm) using thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) filaments and thermoplastic elastomer (TPE) filaments. The actual printing time, weight, Poisson's ratio, and tensile property of the manufactured samples were analyzed. The results confirmed that the actual printing time and weight increased with increasing thickness, regardless of the filament type. All tilting angles of the WB showed a negative Poisson's ratio (NPR), the largest of which appeared at 90°. The results of the tensile property analysis showed that a 90° tilting angle also had the largest value of elongation and stress. From these results, we conclude that the most suitable wrist brace is one in which the actual printing time is low, the weight is minimized to a thickness of 2 mm, and the tilting angle of the RE pattern is 90° for good shock absorption. The choice of filaments may be decided upon according to the user's preference, since the TPU is stiff and the TPE is elastic.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.440-458
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• 2019

Based on a 3D body data and pattern comparison analysis, this study developed a formal jacket pattern for men in their late 30s. In order to select the representative type of men in their late 30s, factor analysis and cluster analysis were conducted on data form 319 men, 35 to 39 years old using the anthropometric data from The 7th Size Korea (2015) as the representative body type. The surface of the body surface was developed using a 3D human shape of a male in his 30s in The 6th Size Korea (2010). Then the shape was changed to a flat pattern that confirmed the necessary elements for setting the shape and dimension. Cluster analysis revealed type B as the representative type because it showed the best shape characteristics for men in the late 30s. The drafting method of the final research pattern is as follows. Jacket length: stature/2.5cm, back length: stature/5+8.5cm (constant)], armhole depth: [stature/ 7-1.5cm (constant)], back width: [C/9+9.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), front width: [C/9+8.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), armscye depth: C/8, front waist darts: 1cm, front closure amount: 2cm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.453-463
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• 2021

The lengthwise and widthwise deformation of warp-knitted fabrics with different sizes and loading modes were evaluated. Moreover, five tricot samples cut in three directions were compared under four test conditions (A-D). In tests A and B, 500 and 250 g loads were applied on a layer of 20 × 20 and 5 × 10 cm² samples, respectively. In test C, a 20 × 20 cm² sample was folded in half over a rod, and 500 g load was applied to each half. In test D, a 20 × 20 cm² sample was sewn in a loop and subjected to a 500 g load. The lengthwise extension and widthwise contraction analysis results indicate that test B affords the largest values. However, analysis results of the warp-knitted fabric normalized through conversion to a 1 g load and 1 cm sample width indicate that the largest values are afforded for test D. Therefore, pattern reduction may vary depending on the measurement method and properties of the knitted fabric used for the compression wear production, causing variations in the finished product. Thus, an appropriate measurement method must be adopted based on the compression wear design and knitted fabric to be used.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.791-802
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• 2006

The construction of athlete's tight-fitting garments by reducing the elastic knit pattern is an interesting subject, which directly influences the performance of the wearer. Therefore, relationships between the reduction rates of the men's pants pattern obtained using measurements of Size Korea 2004 and clothing fitting were explored to improve clothing comfort. Two pattern making methods were developed and the reduction rates were applied to those pants depending on the parts of human body. The four male subjects were university students in the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using seven Likert scales during 4 consecutive days. While wearing the garments, subjects were kept four various postures including waist flexion and sitting etc by requests of the researchers. Likert type scale was used for the evaluation and 7 point indicates that it gave the best fit as tight-fitting pants. As results, differences in the length and girth between two piece pants pattern(style 1) and one piece pants pattern(style 2) were 0.0$\sim$0.3cm. Between two pattern making methods, one piece pants pattern(the style 2) was superior to two piece pants pattern in terms of subjective sensation and fit. Among eight tight-fitting pants, C, D, G, H pants were superior in terms of fitting and stability of waist and hip part to the others. ill case of tight-fitting pants, the reduction rate of the pattern in the course direction, the reduction rate of T2/3(66%) was better than that of T/2(50%), but the reduction rate of the pattern in the wale direction, that of the part of crotch, which was very sensitive part, should be kept the same as suggested earlier by Ziegert(1988).