• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.7
• /
• pp.1109-1120
• /
• 2009

This study develops a fitted torso type basic pattern for men by utilizing 3D body scan data. Recent fashion trends are reflected in the development of the pattern. The subjects were 15 men in their 20's, who wear size 95 (M size). Body scan data was obtained through a 3D whole body scanner (WB4, Cyberware, USA), and a body surface development figure for developing male fitted torso type basic pattern was attained through the use of Rapid Form 2006 as well as Auto CAD 2006 programs. The results are as follows: A body surface development figure through body surface segment method showed high exactitude in an error range of 100$\pm$1%. In addition, it occurred in an error range of 100:1:3% because of the hard scanning conditions in the incline of the shoulder and armpit areas. However, the body surface development figure as well as the direct measurement results can be used as basic data for the given patternmaking since the error range falls into 100$\pm$3%. Dart amounts obtained from the average cross section were center back 2.2cm (24.3%), back armpit point 3.8cm (41.8%), front armpit point 3.0cm (33.9%). As shown the jacket pattern, the biggest dart amount was portioned out at the back armpit point. The drafting equations for the development pattern acquired are as follows; Full width=C/2+5cm, back length=height/4-1cm, armhole depth=(C/10+12cm)+3cm, back width=2C/10+2cm, front width=2C/10. The development pattern was a fitted torso basic pattern that was composed of 3 pieces, so it would be very useful in developing shirt or jacket patterns. According to the results of the evaluation of the developed pattern appearance, it obtained higher scores of over 3.5 points in almost items, meaning that the developed pattern is appropriate for a male fitted torso type basic pattern. It suggests a possibility of patternmaking from a body surface development figure in 2-D to prototype.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.17 no.3
• /
• pp.30-47
• /
• 2013

In the modern fashion industry, efficiency has been increasing thanks to development of computer graphics, IT technology, and digitalization. Unlike the past when fashion design heavily depended on handwork, digitalization of fashion industry makes fabrication time shorter and enables designers to adopt comprehensive expression, generating high value-added product. The Apparel CAD, an example of the digitalized fashion industry, has been developed from 2D system into a system providing 3D simulation. Digital clothing can be determined as an activity of designers using the tool in order to fabricate pattern and simulate its designed clothes in the virtual space of computer. In this study, physical properties of eight materials, which can be utilized on a par with current fashion trend, have been specified. For more sophisticated investigation, external appearance of the material was investigated by 3D scanning. In order to examine the physical properties of fabric specimens, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) measurements and other physical property measurements were made. With the results, virtual material and clothes were simulated via CLO 3D, one of 3D apparel CAD systems. Then, virtual fabrics and clothes of similar types were generated and analyzed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.33
• /
• pp.41-54
• /
• 1997

The objectives of this study were to find out the relationships between clothing style pre-ferences and self-image and to examine the differences in clothing style preferences ac-cording to marital status educational level and social stratification of women. The drawings of clothing style were designed referring to the catalogues for spring/summer of 1996 and printed by computer 6 styles of suit corresponding to clothing image were selected. Style A is a brown suit decorated with scarf style B a grey suit with stripes C a yellow suit with printed pattern D a grey and beige suit E a chanel suit decorated with corsage and F a blue suit with pleated skirt. The self-image was separated to the actual self-image and the ideal self-image. Samples were 226 women(ages 18 to 37) in Seoul Korea. The results of the study were the followings. 1. Clothing images of 6 styles were estimated; Style A was plain conservative formal and gentle image ; B masculine solid actual dark and plain image; C feminine romantic bright and splendid image; D actual ordinary un-fashionable and plain image; E feminine ten-der romantic and non-active image ; F indi-vidual fshionable open casual sprightly and active image. 2. There were significant relationships be-tween clothing style preferences and realistic self-image. The women who considered them-selves as masculine preferred style B mascu-line and plain image. The women feminine and conservative preferred style E feminine and tender image. The women not to follow the fshion preferred style D ordinary and plain image. The women informal and open pre-ferred the style F casual and active image. 3. There were significant relationships be-tween clothing style preferences and ideal self-image. The women who wanted to be-tween clothing style preferences and ideal self-image. The women who wanted to be con-sidered themselves as feminine and conserva-tive preferred style E feminine and tender im-age. The women who wanted gentle and con-servative preferred style D ordinary and plain image. The women who wanted sprightly pre-ferred the style F casual and active image. 4. There were significant differences in clothing style preferences according to marital status educational level and social stratifi-cation. The women with more eduacation pre-ferred the splendid and the plain image at the same time. The upper class preferred feminine image and lower class casual and active image.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.23 no.6
• /
• pp.744-757
• /
• 2021

This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.34 no.4
• /
• pp.673-685
• /
• 2010

This study evaluates the fitness of brassieres through size measurement, comparative pattern analysis, cross section map analysis, 3-D shape analysis number, and fitness evaluation with a focus on domestic and overseas brands. Experimental brassieres were selected as mold brassieres of 3/4 cup in 75A size that is considered a popular design. Brands of selected brassiere were 2 domestic brands (A, B), 1 licensed brand (C), and 2 overseas brands (D, E). Subjects were 8 women in their early 20's. Data were analyzed by descriptive statistics, analysis of variance, reliability analysis, and factor analysis. The results were as follows; the size and pattern of brassieres showed a difference by each brand even though brassieres are the same design. In the wearing effect of brassieres, overseas brand brassieres played a major role in the breast-up effect, but they were not appropriate for the somatotype of Korean women. Domestic brand brassieres showed the volume-up effect, that was confirmed by the increasing bust circumference, bust depth when subjects wore it. In addition, the licensed brand brassieres showed the correction effect of body shape. Therefore, when purchasing a brassiere, the most important condition is to consider the individual characteristics of the somatotype. The results of factor analysis through a functional evaluation show that wearing satisfaction, size satisfaction, and the position of the bust point were important factors for fitness satisfaction and purchase.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
• /
• v.26 no.12
• /
• pp.201-212
• /
• 2021

This study attempted to compare the pattern with the absorption layer by analyzing the pattern of commercially available urinary incontinence panty products. Through this, it tried to obtain basic data necessary for the development of functional urinary incontinence panty for active seniors. Twelve commercially available products were decomposed to analyze size and patterns, and appearance and clothing pressure were evaluated through 3D simulation. As a result of comparing the size and pattern of urinary incontinence panty, it was analyzed that the size difference between parts was large even though the product was called the same. Products from the same brand also showed a big difference depending on design and absorption. As a result of the appearance evaluation for the 3D simulation, it was found that there were significant differences between products in all items such as the front, side, and back. Product No. 9 was analyzed to be the best except for the waist fit on the side. In the evaluation of clothing pressure, most of them were marked in red except for products 1, 2, and 8 due to the nature of the panty product. In the future, it is thought that actual wearing experiments and size standardization studies on urinary incontinence pants should be conducted.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.12 no.5
• /
• pp.642-649
• /
• 2010

This study was designed to generate briefs pattern for women in their twenties using 3D parametric body model. 151 women in their 20's were random sampled and measured using Martine's anthropometry. And one subject was chosen as the representative subject for 3D scanning. Parametric model was generated of using CATIA P3, Unigraphics NX4.0, Rapidform 2006. And the 3D surface of parametric body model was flattened onto the 2D plane. 3 downscale ratios(0%, 10%, 15%) were applied to generated pattern to figure out what downscale ratio was suitable to make briefs with stretch fabric. 4 kinds of experimental briefs were made with stretch fabrics(0%, 10%, 15% downscale) and worn on the dressform. Subjective evaluation on the appearance was done and the data was analyzed by ANOVA with post-hoc test. Briefs pattern was generated through the process of flattening the parametric surface and arranging the patches to make briefs pattern by dart manipulation. The different ration of outline and area between 3D surface and 2D pattern were 0.22% and 0.09% respectively. It showed that a parametric model could provide a desirable pattern with minute size error. The results of subjective evaluation on the appearance of 4 experimental briefs showed that stretch briefs with 15% downscale ratio was evaluated most highly in most items. Findings imply that it is feasible to apply 3D parametric model to generate patterns for various items considering various fabric properties.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.2 no.3
• /
• pp.239-245
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this study was for analysis of ease about basic bodice pattern, as the first step of the research process for the drawing method of basic bodice for women in their twenties. The five selected basic bodice were made and they were worn by FRP body The garment space of each bodice was measured by analysis of the garment space of each section in figure of polymerization of cross section by a 3-D measuring instrument. The research suggests that this compared analysis is an objective reference. This analysis not only of the area of cross section of garment space and ease but also of the girth of the body shape and wearing shape, using the PAD system and 3-D measuring instrument, can be helpful in making garment patterns.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.29 no.6
• /
• pp.904-921
• /
• 2021

The aim of this study was to develop a body type suitable for adult men aged from their 20s to their 40s and to present a method of drafting related patterns. To this end, the somatic surface pattern data from previous studies were used. The research method involved drafting torso patterns for each type by setting and distributing the ease to the somatic surface pattern. Appearance evaluation was performed with virtual clothing. Then, the torso pattern for each body type was completed and presented as a draft method. SPSS was used for data analysis in this study. The research results are as follows. Types 1, 2, and 3 were set to 7%, 6%, 5%; 7%, 6%, 4%; and 6.5%, 7%, and 6% for chest, waist, and hip circumference measurements, respectively. The ratio of front to back was 50%:50%, 50%:50%, and 50%:50% of the spare for each body part for Type 1; 70%:30%, 50%:50%, and 60%:40% for Type 2, and 60%:40%, 70%:30%, and 60%:40% for Type 3. A tight-fit torso pattern for each body type suitable for adult males in their 20s to 40s was drafted, which was modified and supplemented through the evaluation of the first and second virtual wear. Considering the practicality of this approach, for generalization of the patterns, the items of the pattern were converted into a drafting method and presented as a draft method.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.10 no.5
• /
• pp.652-659
• /
• 2008

This study was designed to testify the possibility and devise the method to manipulate the 3D body scan data to produce rounded-belt pattern adaptable to hip-type variation of women in their 20's. The results of this research were as follows : Firstly, based on drop-value distribution of hip and waist girth, 151 subjects were classified into three hip-types; Type 1 (15.23%) was 'cylinder type', showing lowest drop-value, Type 2 (69.54%) was 'average type' and Type3 (15.23%) was 'hourglass type' showing highest drop-value. Secondly, using CAD program, design lines for round shape belt were set on the surface of 3D scan data of representative subject of each type. And divided 3D surfaces were flattened onto the plane by the internal tools of CAD program. The measure, 'lifting value of round belt pattern', implying the level of curve ratio of pattern was higher in back than front. This result might be linked to the fact that the hip part is more protruded than the abdomen part. And the measures also showed highest values in Type 3(hourglass type) and lowest in Type 1(cylinder type), meaning that the pattern of Type 3 showed more rounded shape than that of Type 1. This finding implied that round belt for body type having high drop-value should be shaped more curved. Thirdly, difference ratios of outline length and area between 3D curves(body surface) and 2D plane(pattern) were 4.5% and 1.3%, respectively. This result demonstrated and solidified the feasibility of designing digital garment pattern from 3D body scan data.