• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.115-129
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to discover the techniques and the trends of expression of modern knitwears focusing on the 1990's after. The resorts of this study is as follows: The techniques of expression of knitwears are classified by the sections on the techniques and the styles of expression. The divisions into the techniques are knitting, crochet, macrame, netting, knotting. And the divisions into upon the styles of expressions are color, pattern, texture, relief and seeing through The techniques of expression on the modern knitwears are expressed characteristic of variety and composition, are expended to the art wear by translated into art. According to a wide sense, ecology, ethnic, modern are the themes of knitwears of 1990's after. The characteristic technique of expression according to the themes are expressed by the harmony of image, yarn, color, silhouette, techniques of expression. The modern knitwears are tried by mixed and various techniques, developed to the area of art wear, escaping from simple and practical item.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.3_4 s.141
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• pp.449-461
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to rediscover the hidden value of non-mainstreamers style which has been overlooked for the past decade by investigate the aesthetics and formative features of the Grunge fashion. The Grunge fashion was derived from explosive popularity of the early 90's grunge music. Grunge was the alternative anti-thesis against mainstream pop music and anti-fashion against mainstream fashion. Dirty, rubbish grunge style of the poor street youth and grunge musicians have raised to the high fashion by designers. And These trial of designers made people to notice the value of the non-mainstreamers street style like grunge. Actually, the grunge brought the shock with many argument to the 90's fashion field. But now, It became the classic of the street fashion. And It has potent influence on the music, culture and high fashion. The Grunge is a kind of links between music and fashion, street fashion and high fashion, sub culture and mainstream culture, the past and now. Grunge isn't only a fashion of appearance. It is the attitude of wearing clothes and living a life. Variety grunge style in the international street fashion, high fashion, typical musicians's fashion of the 1990's and the 2000's was researched for this study. These materials were gathered from music magazines, fashion magazines, movies, musics and books. As a results of analysis, Grunge has the formative features like mix & match, layering, patchwork, primitive edge, rag, retro, recycle, kinderwhore, sneer scribbling, disheveled hair. Grunge also has the Aesthetic features like the beauty of $disorder{\cdot}\;disharmony{\cdot}\;incompleteness{\cdot}\;kitsch{\cdot}\;poverty{\cdot}\;alternative{\cdot}\;eclectic{\cdot}$symbiosis. For the last 10 years, These features changed our fashion be more pluralistic and dynamic.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.5
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• pp.1-15
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• 2012

In a fast changing postmodern society, contemporary fashion is becoming more complicated and ambiguous along with other genres of art than ever before. This phenomenon reigning as a sociocultural paradigm can be defined as 'indeterminacy' and it means 'undecidability'. The purpose of this study is to clarify and analyze the indeterminate characteristics of contemporary fashion reviewing the theoretical background and the architectural formativeness as a comparative research. The core idea of deconstructivism dismantles a causal relationship between function and form in fashion and the conventional notion about clothes. Complexity theory, which is the study of chaotic dynamical systems, suggests the creative idea and concept of infinite possibilities on a formative method. Meanwhile, catastrophe theory of discontinuous change can be used as interpretative strategies for the process of deconstruction and reconstruction. As a result of this study, the indeterminacy of fashion can be analyzed into five semantic categories: irregularity, immateriality, randomness, complexity and changeability. The intrinsic value of the indeterminacy in contemporary fashion is the interaction with a sociocultural ideology and a technological environment as well as an expansion of formative expression. To conclude, it can be said that the indeterminacy in fashion is a new interpretation of the relationship among body and space, clothes and society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.1-19
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• 2010

The purpose of this research is to examine the rise of hip-hop culture and its characteristics which have been established as a part of popular culture amid other subcultures and to examine the overall concept of hip-hop fashion which has been developing since its rise in the 1970s and particularly to examine the hip-hop after the turn of the new century when it has gone through several iterations and changes while simultaneously accommodating different trends and reflecting a highly diverse larger culture. The research methodology is a literature-based research that uses classification and analysis based on the preceding research including related books and dissertations and, considering that this research focuses on the characteristics of hip-hop from the 2000s to the present, mainstream news media such as newspapers and magazines around New York images of famous hip-hop culture & stores websites were used in this research. The most characteristic hip-hop fashions since the 2000s examined by this research comprise prep-hop, slim formal suits, skurban, hip-hop Goth, and hip-hop Tatto. First, prep-hop is a mixed match of a preppy look with latest hip-hop sentiments and hip-hop styles. Second, there are slim formal suits that reflect a change of trends that strongly show changes of hip-hop fashion consumers who have been following sports stars' fashions. Third, skurban is a hip-hop fashion combined with the look of skaters. Fourth, hip-hop Goth is what emphasizes strong Goth images such as grunge, skull, and devil in hip-hop fashions based on vintage fashion. Fifth, hip-hop Tatto style designs have appeared in diverse items such as trendy clothes and accessories that were most popular since the 2000s. Hip-hop fashion since the 2000s up to the present is beginning to be integrated with diverse other cultures and its most prominent characteristics is a change into slimmer silhouette.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.196-207
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• 2012

This paper aims to study the representation of basic design elements in patterns of fashion design by analyzing the examples and trends of how basic design elements have been represented in major collections of fashion designers, thereby contribute to enhancing the awareness of the importance of basic design elements in the field of fashion design education. In order to accomplish this goal, utilizing the fundamental concepts and principles of basic design elements, we have analyzed the examples and trends of representation of basic design elements, focusing on the design works of fashion designers from the 2000 collections to the 2010 collections that can be viewed to have been directly inspired by three basic design elements. The result of the analysis shows that there was a popular trend of emphasizing basic design elements as a design motif particularly from the 2000 s/s collections to the 2004 s/s collections. In these collections, we have found a wide range of design works that were inspired by the three basic design elements of dots, lines, and faces. Designers such as Jil Sander, Bill Blass, ..., etc. produced diverse designs that emphasized dots with various feeling of space, weight and texture. The collections by I.S.Suano Kuwahar, ..., etc. were based on the concept of coordinating the design element of lines with various textures. Vestium Officina, Loewe, ..., etc. produced the designs where faces were divided by lines in various ways and various forms of faces were decorated with diverse colors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.3
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• pp.110-122
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressional traits and internal meanings of fake design in the 2000s' fashion, based on study of art and design area. For achieving the purpose, this study performed related research works and a demonstrative analysis of fashion collection photographs. The scope of this study is from 2000 to 2009. The results are as follows. Fake design uses trompe-l'oeil which is an art technique related to the meanings of 'deceive or fool the eye'. This eye-deceiving technique has been used for a long time in the art, and particularly noticed as one of techniques of Surrealism. Art works using trompe-l'oeil express familiar and unreasonable world at the same time, and also the fusion of reality and fabrication. Fake design in design area of the 2000s makes people take daily life in unfamiliar way by unusualness and breaking the boundary between real and fake. By fake design, people can enjoy fun and a sense of freedom with amusement rather than unpleasant of being deceived. Fake design in the fashion of the 2000s uses eye-deceiving technique and also focuses on the concept of 'fake'. The expressional traits were categorized as realistic expression, surrealistic expression and fake value expression. The internal meanings were analyzed as breaking boundary between real and fake, rediscover dailiness, new attitude to traditional thinking. In conclusion, fake design in the fashion of the 2000s gives playfulness, fun, feeling of release and will be pursued continually.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.8
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• pp.100-117
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• 2012

This research aims to study comparatively on the aesthetic characteristics of minimalism and maximalism in the 2000s fashion, based on the previous studies in art and design. For this purpose, literature survey and demonstrative analysis of fashion collection photographs were performed. The scope of this research is from 2000 to 2010. The results are as follows: First, the formativeness of minimalism fashion in the 2000s is analyzed as understatement, simplicity, non decorativeness. The internal meanings are reduction, purity, asceticism, transcendence and practicality. Second, the formativeness of maximalism fashion in the 2000s is analyzed as enlargement, fusion, decorativeness, luxury and avant-garde. The internal meanings are pluralism, open mind, sensibility, fun and materialism. Third, minimalism and maximalism fashion in the 2000s are opposite when compared to each other. While minimalism pursues the nature of human being by ascetic approach, maximalism does it by immersing in human affairs. Within the spectrum of these two opposing ends, there are different degrees of expressions. Also these two trends fuse with other styles. As these trends express and pursue the nature of human being, they are expected to exist incessantly in the future.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.195-219
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• 2011

The purpose of the study is to analyze Hollywood actresses' makeup in formative characteristics and see the transition of the change for the usage as the fundamental materials to develop the future makeup field academy with the focus focused from 1920s to 2000s when the cosmetic industry began in earnest. The content of the study is to see the transition of the change by analyzing makeup of each era in formative aspect after seeing the transition of the makeup change in the social background by classifying by 10 years from 1920s to 2000s with related literature as the center in the theoretical background. The method of the study is to analyze makeup in formative aspect with total 180 pieces of pictures selected by two experts among their photos by selecting four actresses by each era and analyze Hollywood actresses' advertisement pictures which can be called as beauty icons at that time. Analysis frame to analyze the formativeness established new classification frame based on theories of Marian L. Davis, Marilyn Revell Delong, and Kang to analyze line, shape, texture, and decoration, and researcher's analysis frame was prepared based Munsell's color circle, tone analysis of P.C.C.S color system, and Kang's makeup color name to analyze colors. The result of the study is like below. Generally 20s and 30s highlighted line of eyebrows, 40s naturalness, 50s and 60s highlighted eye makeup, and from 70s makeup was focused on health, in 80s colorful makeup was boom, and 90s and 2000s has shown characteristics focused on texture of face.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.9
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• pp.114-130
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• 2011

The purpose of this research is to analyze expressional traits and meanings of hommage expressed in the 2000s' fashion, based on studies of film, art, and design areas. For achieving the purpose, this research surveys related research works and performs a demonstrative analysis of fashion collection photographs. The scope of this study is from 2000 to 2011. The results are as follows: First, the term of hommage is generally used to mean any show of respect publicly to someone or something one feels indebted. Second, artists and fashion designers pay hommage to various objects to show respect and love, and they also empathize with them. Hommage works are recreated ones, not just simply copied or repeated ones. They are new but familiar. Third, expressional traits of hommage in the fashion of 2000s are categorized into reinterpretation, insertion, inclusiveness, and symbolization. The internal meanings are respect and love, communication and empathizing, interaction with art, and recreation. In conclusion, by using hommage technique, fashion designers in the 2000s create something new with their own experiences and creativities while pursuing the timeless values.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.10
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• pp.38-50
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• 2009

Since Homeros in Greece, Mimesis was thought to be an art to imitate the nature, and it means an imitation of the nature classically. Mimetic theories were set to be a kind of art work in the era of Renaissance, and the terminology of mimesis was widely used to replace it with an originality in the 15th century. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetics of mimesis expressed in 2000s fashion. For this purpose, I investigated the theories of the mimesis, categorized the definition, then applied those categories for 2000s fashion. Documentary studies were conducted through aesthetics, fashion books and demonstrative studies were processed by analyzing photos from collection fashion magazines and fashion site of internet. In the history of aesthetics, the mimesis could be defined into three categories; the similarity and the representation mimesis, the symbol mimesis and the abstraction mimesis. In fashion, the representation mimesis included a natural and a folk, a period that of 1900s and ancient representation mimesis. The symbol mimesis included psychology and fear symbol mimesis. The abstraction mimesis included hard color, a geometric simplification and distortion mimesis. Analysis on the mimesis expressed in 2000s modern fashion may provide an excellent method for understanding human aesthetic in costume.