• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.34-40
• /
• 2006

Fascism is a term that began to be used from the late 1930s, means an idea and a system that the strong power of the state intervenes or control people's life based on the argument that the existential value of individuals is found only in the total. Fascist looks, which resulted from World War I and II, had brought a new pattern in women's fashion inspired by men's military uniforms. Thus, the purpose of this study was to identify fascist fashion trends in the first half of the twentieth century and to infer various aesthetic values of fascism expressed in fascist fashion looks. The results of this study indicated that expressions of fascism reflected the current ideology of rebellion and appealed to the original national sentiment of the masses. Fascism occurred in response to the contradiction of capitalism and its general crisis had emerged as an ideology with the highest popularity symbolizing power and government during the first half of the twentieth century. It was expressed in military looks as self-centered nationalism and yearning for minorities. Second, fascist fashion looks were not only for political and sexual temptation with the image of power but also for the display of women's status and roles through the bold expression of sexual attractiveness. Finally, fascist fashion looks expressed medieval images praising the feudal age in imagination that contained heroism and at the same time achieved integration under strict social hierarchical order.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.225-232
• /
• 2006

This study purposed to review the concept and characteristics of subculture theoretically and then to analyze subcultural hairstyles shown in the 20th century's fashion in terms of form, structure, texture, design line and design principle, which were formative factors of beauty art. The range of this study was from the 1950's to the 1990's, during which subcultural hairstyles, which were selected for this study, kept a unique formality as subcultural characteristics of each time were reflected in hairstyles. The hairstyles found in subcultural styles were reviewed as follows. From the formative analysis as the above, it was concluded that layer form was seen most frequently in the subcultural hairstyles. This may be because it has a lot of layers in hair, and enables to make more various forms with a simpler care than other hairstyles so that it is easy to show one's own characteristic or differentiate oneself from others. Thanks to the characteristics of layer form, horizontal and convex were often seen as design lines. As for a texture, straight often appeared. The texture of straight is naturally formed without any care applied on hair. The reason may be that most subcultures refused artificiality. Therefore, the characteristics of subcultural hairstyles may be that hairstyles are transformed into various forms and created into the styles appropriately for individual tastes so as to clearly express one's own idea and thought.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.56 no.1 s.100
• /
• pp.81-96
• /
• 2006

Fashion is very superficial. However, it is expressed through the culture that is a cause of internal change and therefore its contents are defined by the cultural features. In this study, to study the aesthetic properties of the French fashion, the internal fashion contents are defined according to the cultural characteristics of France and based on the definition, the external features are investigated. The cultural characteristic was analyzed based on the reference literatures on the French culture. Based on the cultural characteristics of France, the aesthetical properties of the contemporary French fashion can be analyzed as follows: ${\cdot}$Dualism is the internal contents of the French culture with multiple sources, and it implies that opposing values such as female and male, traditionalism and modernism, simplicity and decoration are coexisting. Simplicity is pursued but decorative elements are in harmony and new phase of time is reflected while certain style has lasted for a long period of time to become a tradition. Furthermore, a rational trend combining masculinity and femininity, simultaneously exist with a trend that emphasizes feminine image. ${\cdot}$Multiculturism is a mysterious feature that has adapted the oriental or other cultural factors into the forms, patterns, colors and material of costumes. It has also been reconstructed with the French and the modern tastes. ${\cdot}$Avant-gardism is pursuing a novel aesthetic value against the former value system. It recognizes the human body as an object of figurative arts therefore emphasizes the body with geometric shapes to deny the fixed-idea, or engraft new materials and technologies to express the futuristic aspects.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
• /
• v.12 no.12
• /
• pp.103-110
• /
• 2012

Various industrial sectors have formally turned to Green Development, practicing eco-design with the goal of saving the environment. Such trend can also be applied to jewelry design and production. Jewelry, which emerged with the birth of humankind, has been a contributing factor to environmental pollution and depletion of resources due to mass production and reckless consuming patterns of the 20th century. With the arrival of the World economic crises, however, the consumption of jewelry has dropped and now the industry desperately needs a boost for revival. In this paper, we propose a way to recycle waste materials and turn them into a new kind of jewelry. We introduce various junk materials that can be reused, and how to reuse them. The new type of jewelry we aim for is environment-friendly, low-cost, and unique as opposed to identical mass production of the past. The eco-design product will likely add new value to jewelry industry. The product targets sophisticated modern consumers with conscientious, environmentally aware consuming patterns. To fulfill the needs of these consumers, we propose methods of upcycling from junk to jewelry, by combining precious stones with waste materials.

• Journal of Science of Art and Design
• /
• v.11
• /
• pp.5-35
• /
• 2007

When it comes to art, the two conflicting themes of 'scientific progress' and the 'nature' have often motivated the advent of the new mode of arts. By the late 20th century, uniform and simplified mode of arts, inspired by scientific and technological progress of that time, was gradually disillusioned by the contemporaries due to the adverse effect of science on human life. In this context, naturalism pursuing for harmony of human and the nature came up as an alternative to those living in the 21st century. The pendulum has swung from minimalism to naturalism. Though the quantitative improvement of human life cannot be denied, the uprise of such problems as environmental pollution and exhaustion of natural resources degraded the quality of human life, which, eventually, shifted the attention to the theme - 'revival of naturality.' Therefore, this thesis intends to represent the modem interpretation of the 'revival of naturality' by applying the major expressions of Art Nouveau that also emphasized naturalism. Art Nouveau found its motifs from organic figures of natural beings and put them to designs of decorative arts. This carries a historical significance in that Art Nouveau boldly revolutionized historicism, which only repeated adoption and modification of the existing modes of arts, and opened it to the modem design with new attempts to practical applications of the arts. Art Nouveau, which means 'new art', prospered from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, and even after one century, it is highly appreciated, reviving as novel and vivid forms in this contemporary art. Art Nouveau based on naturalism has revisited our contemporary period when naturalism and feminized romanticism came into fashion and its common motifs revive in different jenre of arts such as fashion, furniture, glass works, and jewelry works. This study illustrates and analyzes the works of four major artists who gave a specific attention to botanical motifs of Art Nouveau and applies decorative beauty of highly sophisticated and organic curved lines and the expressional forms of botanical figures to design. Art Nouveau proved this; the nature herself is as beautiful as she can be. Within Art Nouveau, the true humanism can be revitalized with the 'revival of naturality'. This study rediscovered the boundless potential of modern interpretation and application of Art Nouveau in decorative art and design.

• Cartoon and Animation Studies
• /
• s.34
• /
• pp.197-217
• /
• 2014

The 1920s and 1930s ushered in "the golden age" of Chinese comics when the comics flourished. Satirical cartoons in modern Chinese comics were popular due to emotional instability and war caused by foreign powers. Among many popular comics, this paper analyzes in the 1920s and in the 1930s which were made into films and dramas. Chapter Two shows that China in the Republican era of China expanded its consumer culture into some sectors like films, novels, magazines and fashion in the 1920s and 1930s. However, more than any other things, this chapter considers from the historical perspective "the golden age" of comics including comic magazine in the 1930s and a history of comic magazines that gained popularity with conventional and common story. Chapter Three explains that social satire cartoons were in vogue since the May Fourth Movement and anti-imperialistic and semi-feudalistic stories in the 1920s were realized in life. It also says that comics that describes the negative sides of its society were popular. Ye QianYu, a cartoonist, portrayed many facets of Shanghai through : the daily life of the middle and lower classes, bureaucratic corruption and sympathy for the working class. drawn by Zhang LePing describes the unfair social system between the bourgeoisie and the proletariat and the gap between the rich and poor through the main character, the powerless and poor orphan. and lampooned the reality of its time in an objective, witty and humorous way in terms of ethics and economy respectively. The researcher chooses to study and which are very familiar to us, because good cartoons, animations and movies stimulate the feelings about our surroundings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.8
• /
• pp.91-105
• /
• 2008

Spatial multiplication phenomenon, expressed through de-constructive trend since the late of 20C, have got changed existing fixed and dis-variable space to smooth, fluid, and changeable space. Ex-form and fluidity of new spatial paradigm have been focused through lots of scientific theories studied between digital thought and indeterminacy and rankless nature phenomena. In 21C fashion, indeterminate and irregular form and space have been crested continuously, which could not explain simply according as the fluidity theory Different from the space crested for multi-function and multipurpose, this is revealed the characteristics of chaosmos that communizes the order and the disorder, deconstruction and creation. Ex-formal space of fashion have shown the relationship of de-centerizing, de-territorial, and do-structural phenomenon among different fashion elements. This paper intends to understand the concept of ex-form, and study expressive manners of ex-formal space of 21C fashion, and conclusion as follows. 1) Overlap changes single space of fashion to multi-layered space through the repeat system of pleats, origami, and folding. 2) Ex-gravity expressed in deviation of the gravity acting vertical direction, for example, twisting, curve, winding, portion. 3) Morphing is shown the change process from single fixed form to different complex form. 4) Blurring is expressed in re-combination and re-arrangement among elements of fashion. 5) Blob shows hybrid fashion space through the liberal compounding and separation of a lot of different elements.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.41
• /
• pp.169-183
• /
• 1998

The Tartan, the representative check pattern and traditional costume of Scothand, is the most popualr checker which has inherited from the clans of the Scotch Highlands in the ancient times and continued to develop. It is a symbol of the Scotch culture and tadition and widely used in various ways according to status, birthplace purpose and use. Therefore, this study was intended to inquire into Tartan check. The purpose of this study attempted to make a systematic investigation of the characteristic of the Tartan check. the checker using vertical and horizontal lines which was the universal plastic element and inquire into it in terms of era, designers and combined works. By doing so, this study attempted to investigate the phase of the Tartan check in world fashion and further forecast the future of checker design applicable to the 21th-Century fashion. In addition it, attempted to investigate the features of Scottch costume unknown in our academic circles and inquire into the proless in while the Scottch has retained the originality of its own which suppressed by neighboring countries. This study could find out that the checker is the element of infinite applicability in the future. It is expected that the sophisticated and beautiful design using the checker will be presented by many Korean designer through the overall and systanatic study of the checker. On the other hand, to make an empirical study costume of other races, a comprehensive examination should be made of the social and cultural background against which locals are using their costume, through the survey of their real costume and on-spot research. It this respect, this study has some limitation in time and data collection. Besides the analysis of costume through materials and photos in museums as well as the study of cloth material and accurate colors was not con여cted in this in this study. This will remain to be study of in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.2
• /
• pp.105-119
• /
• 2004

Cultural hybridization and global cross-fertilization, begun since the 1990s, mean the hybrid mixture of the low-class popular arts and the high-class fine arts and have found expression in intertextuality by means of the thinking system of de-constructuralist post-modernism. This study was intended to investigate the artistic intertextuality between fashion and art frontiere, especially between such fields as 'animation', 'music', and 'performing arts' and 'fashion', which shows the greatest characteristic of the phenomenon that the non-mainstream culture flows into the mainstream culture. It also aimed to investigate the intertextuality between 'technology' and 'fashion' as the delivery room of the youth culture and copycat culture due to the benefit of technologies since the 20th-century digital revolution. Animation as the neo-pop art with the popular code coming to the forefront in the 21th century integrated high-class fashion and low-class fashion into one through the combination of fashion and humor, and the musical element referring to the social difference of the cultural field and the social strata is becoming the 21th-century fashion icon through its fusion with the pictorial tendency along with the leisure-time life of the non-mainstream strata. In terms of intertextuality in performing arts, fashion style performs an important role in the presentation of performing arts and since the de-construction of the fin-de-ciecle form and its fusion with media have taken place, fashion works become and element of the origin that has an influence on a series of film, dance, dramatic elements and the like. The paradigm of technology made it socially and culturally possible to achieve the architecture of clothing system necessary for fashionable technical clothing by allowing the possibility of imitation, the function of technology to form popular culture. The intertextual tendency in the 21th-century fashion began from the de-constructive phenomenon of existing norms and now takes the multicultural character of surpassing a certain domain or concept. And it positions itself as the total art of spearheading the low-class culture and the non-mainstream culture as the hybrid domain of mainstream and non-mainstream cultures or high-class and low-class cultures.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.12 no.4
• /
• pp.663-675
• /
• 2004

The plastic arts is used when designers draw inspirations to create fashion design. The author referred to fashion magazines for designing ideas of Mondrian＇s geometrical abstract painting in practical applications used by designers in Paris, Italy, London and New York during the 10-year period(1991-2000). The collections of data were analyzed as following: ◇ Fashion Designing Idea 1. Matching Idea The art is reproduced in the design as how it is with no transformation. First, the painting＇s complete figure is reproduced on the entire or parts of clothing. Second, the painting＇s partial figure is reproduced on the entire or parts of clothing. 2. Contrasting Ideas The composition elements in Mondrian＇s geometrical abstract painting, for example, structures of shapes, vertical and horizontal lines and different colors are applied in the design. First, one particular shape in painting is transformed into different shape of square, circle or triangle and reproduced in designing. Second, one particular shape in painting is disassembled and then reshaped into different form in reproduction. Third, additional lines are put in to create different look from the original painting. Forth, existing lines are extended over the boundary to create different look from the original painting. Fifth, achromatic colors: black and white, and three basic colors: red, blue and yellow in the original painting are modified into different shades or color scheme is increased in broad range.