• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.19 no.2
• /
• pp.118-135
• /
• 2015

This study probed into the fashion of modern girls between the 1920's and the 1930's who led the mentality and fashion of women as the progenitor of the alpha girl in Korea. For this, the fashion of actual people who received attention as modern girls in various occupations and that of modern girl heroines reinterpreted in films were examined. Methods included the theoretical study based on fashion related newspaper articles at the time, specialized publications, advance researches, and internet data and the empirical study that involved contents analysis centering on visual data. The Western women's fashion between the 1920's-1930's was dominated by the garçonne look to promote women's entry into society and competition against men and the practical and mature long and slim look due to the influence of economic recess. Korean people also adapted Western clothes following Western fashion while also modified the traditional clothes and wore modified Korean clothes. The fashion of 5 actual modern girls of Korea and that of 3 film heroines were examined. The fashion of actual people most well represented the fashion trends at the time and that they used fashion as the means to express their mentality and their artistic propensity and professionalism were expressed through fashion. On the other hand, the fashion of film heroines substantially expressed various occupations of the characters in the film and reflected trendy clothes and cosmetics, and it showed sexy and romantic fashion trend due to the influence of modern trends and reinterpretations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.12 s.159
• /
• pp.1737-1746
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study is to present a concrete image of the ideal beauty as shown in era preceding 1945 that effects the shaping of our aesthetic values; by analyzing its characteristics through the covers of women's magazines of that period, this research aims to promote the understanding of beauty of the human body. The scope of my research extends throughout the collection of women's magazines stored in the National Library and the Korea Magazine Information Center. The gathered research materials are: 5 kinds of Shin-Yeo-Sung (신여성), 51 kinds Yeo-Sung(여성) and 30 kinds of Ga-Jung-Ji-Woo(가정지우). The result of the research could be summarized as the followings. Before the 1920's in response to the violent opening, there was a trend of sticking to the traditional standard. In the 1920's, the prevalent images of women were meek and fragile. Japanese standard of beauty was explicitly indicated. In the 1930s, as Western movies started to be shown to the general public, western features were idealized and furthermore intelligence was required as a further condition. In the 1940s, preparation of the war led to encouragement of images of motherhood and natural beauty, and resistant to this trend led to pseudoclassicism.

• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.28 no.4
• /
• pp.17-26
• /
• 2019

After opening Suwon railway station in 1905, a new road was constructed between Suwon station and Paldalmun(the South gate). It was the starting point to change urban structures of Suwon and shape the new city scape. In 1914, administrative districts of Suwon were reorganized. Suwon-myeon (township, a subdivision of Suwon-gun) was promoted to Suwon-eup(town) in 1931. Suwon-eup expanded its territory and changed the address system from 'li(里)' system to Japanese address system, 'Jeong(町)' in 1936. From 1920s, road system was changed and transformed Suwon's urban structures. A straight road was built from Jongro intersection to Janganmun(the north gate) in 1928. Another straight road was constructed between Suwon station to Padamun in the early 1930s. Public office buildings used the Hwa Seong HaengGung(華城行宮) and some of building moved to new location with new buildings. Main buildings of most schools in Suwon were reconstructed since 1930s. Commercial buildings and stores were sprung up and had their own characteristics by region. Around Suwon station, there are more hotels and restaurants than other areas. Rearranging administrative areas, developing road system and new buildings transformed Suwon's spatial structures. Constructing new roads formed a straight road passing through Suwon. After reorganizing administrative areas, this road turned to be the central axis of Suwon. Buildings in new style on the axis made the modern cityscape in Suwon.

• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.21 no.5
• /
• pp.57-68
• /
• 2012

The purpose of this study is to identify the characteristics of the use of the western building system with the change of the architectural design in the Japanese colonial period focused on the facility built by Joseon Government-General in 1910s. Through the 131 cases of governmental building, the tendency of the use of western building system. After 1910, Japanese Imperialism adopted the western wooden building system which main structure was made with combination of small pieces of timber for building the modern governmental facility because of the political and financial intention. So, all facilities were designed similarly by the structural module and the facade was finished by the feather boarding in the same with the 'sitamitakei-giyohu' in Japan. the functional requirements of each facility was not revealed. Such an western wooden building system was used until 1920s with the change of the facade by the mortar coating. But, in 1920s-1930s, the building system have begun to change. The use of the brick system caused some changes although the planing concept was still lasted. On the other hand, the use of the reinforced concrete led to more changes on the overall scheme.

• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.2 no.1 s.3
• /
• pp.74-90
• /
• 1993

The genesis of Modern Architecture in Korea by Korean Architects can be explained by the Korean socio-economical condition. During the late 19c and early 20c many buildings had been constructed that contained modern function, But modern builings designed by Korean Architects appeared through the 1930s. The 'Hwoisaryung' which was a law to restrict establishing company in Korea since 1910 was extincted at 1920. Korean modern capitalists formed after 1920 could be clients of a modern buildings. The period of the formation of Korean modern architects met that of Korean modern capitalists. Korean modern capitalists commissioned Korean architects and Korean architects were able to practice only in the relation of its patron. Korean capital formed 6 per cent of total capital in Korea. Although Korean capitalists would be a patron of Korean architects, their requests of building were restricted to the commercial, the residential and the private educational buildings.

• Archives of design research
• /
• v.14 no.1
• /
• pp.145-158
• /
• 2001

There are posters of a tourist and traffics as like railroads and ships among Cassandre's posters, and they are common in dealing with 'travelling'. This series of travelling posters which includes many of his representative works, are important in the point of showing his unique styles and the process how Hey have been changed. In this thesis, I tried to analyze, especially in the plastic and graphic aspects, how Cassandre catch the peoples' desire and dreams of the travelling and images on the mechanical property of railroads and ships in 1920's and 1930's and how he put them into his works. I think that has revealed sense and visual language which has revealed through this analysis still give some messages to advertising media of moving images based on electronic technology today.

• Journal of Popular Narrative
• /
• v.27 no.1
• /
• pp.99-130
• /
• 2021

This paper examines printed materials such as weekly newsletters and leaflets issued by Dansungsa, a movie theater in Colonial Korea for a promotional purpose as independent modern media. During the 1920s and 1930s, in tandem with the development of the incipient printing houses in Namchon, Gyeongseong, including Suyeongsa, Dansungsa published promotional prints including weekly newsletters and leaflets in a serial manner to compete with Joseon-gukjang and Umigwan. As these materials contain various information including movie programmes, spectatorship, distributional channels, and promotional strategies that bears witness to theater culture of this time, this paper focuses on the dynamics where not only text and image but also audiences and filmic texts are mediated one another. To this end, the paper has three objectives. First, I argue that weekly newsletters and leaflets can be considered as 'flickering media' that meddles in text and image culture. Second, Dansungsa's promotional prints interpellated film audiences as a loyal fan group while mediating audiences and filmic texts. In doing so, I suggest that these print materials established its own cultural domain differentiated from filmic culture itself. Third, these ephemeral materials contributed to narrowing the gap between colonial Joseon and the World in its imaginary geography through the function of mediation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.7
• /
• pp.172-183
• /
• 2014

The term "new woman" (신여성 [Sinyeoseong], 新女性) refers to an idealized image of contemporary women during the so-called modern period in East Asia. In Korea, these "modern girls" were also referred to as modan (毛斷), or "cut-hair", reflecting changes in appearances that rejected the traditional value system in favor of "the new" in everyday life. Although it was used to refer to the perceived educated leaders of this new period, it also had the negative connotation of referring to frivolous women only interested in the latest fashion. The popular discourse on this "new woman" was constantly changing during this early modern period in East Asia, ranging from male-driven women's movements to women-driven liberal and socialist movements. The discourse often included ideals of what constituted female impeccability in women's domestic roles and enlightened views on housekeeping, yet in most cases the "new woman" was also expected to be a good wife and mother as well as a successful career woman. The concept of the "new woman" was also accompanied by an upheaval in women's social roles and their physical boundaries, and resulted in women repositioning themselves in the new society. The new look was a way of constructing their bodies to fit their new roles, and this again was rapidly reproduced in visual media. Newspapers, magazines, and plays had gained immense popularity by this time and provided visual material for the age with covers, advertisements, and illustrations. This research will explore the fashion of the "new woman" through archival resources, specifically magazines published in the 1920s and 1930s. It will investigate how women's appearances and the images they pursued reflected the ideal image of the "new woman." Fashion information providers, trendsetters, and levels of popular acceptance will also be examined in the context of the early stage of the fashion industry in East Asia, including production and distribution. Additionally, as the idea of the "new woman" was a worldwide phenomenon throughout the 19th and early 20th century, the effect of Japanese colonialism on the structure of Korean culture and its role as a cultural mediator will also be considered in how the ideal image of beauty was sought, and whether this was a western, colonial, or national preference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.32
• /
• pp.45-56
• /
• 1997

The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between Chanel design and her Costume jewelry in 1920's-1930's through documentary studies. According to the study the result was as follows: 1. Chanel's esthetic in the field of Fashion Design bore the double stamp of "elegance" and 'simplicity' 2. Chanel changed the concept of costume jewelry. Chanel's great innovation was that she let 'fake' jewels always keep the intrinsic value of 'real' ones. 3. The simplicity of her perfectly tailored suit was Paradoxically overwhelmed by a fan-tastic array of jewels. The relationhship be-tween Chanel design and her costume jewelry was not able to be seperated. Chanel was a fashion leader fifty years ago and the name "Chanel" will be at the forefornt of fashon fifty years from now. The image of quality will always remain the same in the futures.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
• /
• v.15 no.1 s.54
• /
• pp.12-19
• /
• 2006

As an exhibition designer, clothing and furniture designer, and woman architect in Germany during the 1920s and'1930s Lilly Reich was an important pioneer of modern design and one of the most respected practitioners. In spite of that she has been until recently known primarily for the work she produced in association with the architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, because his fame has overshadowed her own contribution. For the first time only after her own works have been presented by MoMA in 1996, her artistic world could begin to be illuminated. This study discusses not only her collaboration with Mies van der Rohe, but also her own work as an individual artist. The aim of this study is concentrated on two aspects, which have been unexplored in the history of architecture and interior design. One of them is related to her effort, the essential elements and principles of the exhibition design disciplinarily to stand and through this the methodological basis of exhibition design to found. Another aspect is the contribution to the functionalist architecture by keeping in harmony the standardization and the individualism. This study is purposed to re-actualize the interior-architectural ideas of Lilly Reich into the present context through the consideration on the collaborations with Mies van der Rohe and her own works and to illuminate her complementary efforts to the functionalist architecture.