• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.105-119
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• 2010

The style of costumes which dancers put on for dancing on a stage reflects the times, culture, and traditionality of movements in dancing. Accordingly, everyday dresses are adopted as the stage costumes in some cases and stage costumes lead the trend in other cases. Furthermore, like stage costumes in other genres, dancing costumes put more emphasis on expressive features in the functions of clothing unlike everyday dresses. In particular, dancing costumes shall sufficiently and delicately express each movement using the costumes as well as rhythms and melodies of music for dance. Ballet which is the representative western dance was derived from the world "Ballare" meaning "dance" in Italian. As shown in the change of word, ballet started in Italy. In Italy taking initiatives for all artistic activities in Europe as leading Renaissance in the 15th century, ballet started as the court dance and favored by French. Then, ballet flourished in France and was developed to the Romantic ballet in the 19th century. During the Renaissance, the early stage of ballet development the dancers put on the dresses which were in fashion at that time on the stage. The dancing costumes added the decorative features suitable for the characteristics of main actors or actresses and contents of dances to the dresses in fashion at relevant times in 17th and 18th century. "Panier", the dancing costume in the 18th century, was sensationally popular among women. As described above, the study on the features of dancing costumes by times not only arranges the costumes in each times but also investigates emotions and artistic and aesthetic values of those who lived in the relevant times. Furthermore, it is the way to experience the height of fantasy and beauty.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.126-140
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the fashion design applying to the hoop, which have become various since 1980. To do this, this study is investigated the origin and the changes of the hoop historically, then classified its types, and finally analyze the collections from 1980 to 2003. The hoop was appeared on the late 15th century. Then in the mid 16th century, bell-shaped farthingale was prevailed, followed by drum-shaped wheel farthingale and hausse-cul in England and France. In the 17th century, slim silhouette was popular, so that the hoop declined gradually. In the 18th century, panier and panier double were introduced which is to make side-expanded skirt silhouette. In the 19th century, crinoline and bustle were created. The hoops applied to modern collections are used various materials, techniques, and forms. It is a main item of historicism which appeared in the trend of post-modernism and the phenomenon of applying underwear to an outer garment like corset. The hoop is adapted into three ways: only with the frame of hoop, wearing a skirt with some parts of the frame exposed on purpose, and wearing a skirt on the frame, thus not showing the frame. Thus, it is thought that wearing a hoop as a frame is used an element of recreation of past fashion, at the same time it was affected by historicism which is a branch of post-modernism. Applying the hoop as an outer garment may be affected by eroticism which changed underwear into an outer wear in postmodernism and deconstructivism.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.100-113
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• 2018

From the late 17th to the early 18th century, Europeans were strongly intrigued by products from the East. Therefore, several countries like England, France, and Netherlands formed the 'East India Company' to pursue trade. First, European markets rapidly responded to this desire for exoticism by importing goods; then, they produced imitation Oriental goods. Finally, they made stylistically advanced exotic merchandise from the perspectives of European. In terms of the textile industry, this trend was expressed in the pattern design of silk, or the so called 'bizarre silk.' In this paper, bizarre silk patterns were scrutinized based on a digital archive of museums, catalogues of museums, portal sites, and the literature. The bizarre silk patterns were analyzed then classified into six categories: pseudo-Oriental plant pattern, pattern mingled with architectural motifs, pattern of juxtaposed with Oriental goods, abstract pattern, exuberant pattern with metal threads, and semi-naturalistic pattern. These patterns were characterized according to the following features: strangely large exotic floral patterns were undulating and asymmetrical; exotic foliage and flowers were sometimes mixed with architectural motifs or Oriental goods to easily show the Oriental influence; motifs of bizarre silk patterns were abstractly stylized; bizarre silk patterns became luxurious once more like the Baroque period; finally, floral patterns became more natural, and still exotic motifs remained in the background to maintain the bizarre silk features. These bizarre silk patterns evolved from the viewpoints of Europeans through acceptance stage, compound stage, and confluent stage.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.157-172
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• 2016

This study aims to present findings of historical design trends of men's fashion, and the characteristics of changes in the types of overcoats and mid jackets shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. The primary data sources for this study comprised one pattern book, each of the17th and 18th century, and 15 pattern books of the 19th century, all of which are conserved by the French National Library. The study methods are as follows: First, analysis of men's fashion trends and the characteristics of changes by type as shown in French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Second, analysis of the evolution of type of men's overcoats and top-exterior- and-interior (outside) styles shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. As a result, a total of 69 type references were collected from French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Historically, men's fashion was largely classified into top-exterior, top-exterior-and-interior, top-interior, bottoms and accessories. The two major classifications were as follows: top-exteriors overcoats and robes, And top-exterior-and-interior as top-exterior-and-interior(outside) and top-exterior-and-interior (inside). The study also identified the forms and changes by type. Additionally, this study selected overcoats and top-exterior-and-interior(outside) which fall under typical categories to show the change in the forms of men's fashion of the 19th century. These changes in the types were designated as: continued, faded away, newly appeared and transformed. This study analyzed the time of appearance of the forms by the year of publishing in conjunction with cultural references from previous domestic and international studies. The results showed that the time of changes in the types shown in pattern books did not deviate from the mainstream, which verified their typicality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.30
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• pp.239-259
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• 1996

This research is to observe background of origination and process of changing style for men's suits and also to observe the root of aes-thetics which has made the changing style be maintained for nearly 200 years. The aesthetic characteristics are 1)The revival of the Neo-Classicism beauty in the 18th century could be regarded as the root of incipient style of the modern men's suits design. And the cutters recreated ancient nude hero which was an object of envy at that time and also reproduced men's suits through modifying the existed suits to make the ancientnude conform with the sewing regulations in order to describe and convey the perfect image of gender,. 2) The cutter who pursued merit of the classicismic aesthetics in the late 18th cen-tury artistically upgraded English rough country coat to keep pace with Nordic coat style of netherland Russia Germany while in constrast with the coat style mode which was in fashion in France and Italy then And also they changed the English country coat to a noble natural clothing structure in relation to ancient sculpture to keep the English tradition. 3) Im the 18th century Neo-Classicism art emphasized transparent and monochromatic beauty and thus color was limitedly used. In the use of the limited color however ancient aesthetical simple purity was well described within the more realistic outline. In those days the cutter who admired the English neo-Classicism removed color-luster and preferred colorless finished dimly and transparently. And thus color of the men's suits become to be also dim colored in los brightness. This means that it did not express pure beauty but brought such effect of the Classicism beauty that the nude itself was figured out.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.105-110
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• 2007

With the beginning of seventeenth century, the men in France royal palace began to wear wigs and by eighteenth century wig became sole possession of men. Then, it had been become a satire thing filling one side of the era with the pouf that had been for women. All these things were closely related with the unstable social situation. The bourgeoisie expressed the anger for the privilege that come from the disparity of class consciousness. The reaction against the discriminative treatment by the illuminists stimulated the outbreak of the French Revolution on 14th, July in 1789. This paved way of characterizing the wig styles of the time. The symbolism of cultural-historical meaning in the west is not confined only in Europe. The worship of hair that is different from one cultural area to another had started with their own unique taboo consciousness and had developed to the form speaking for the expression of masculine, the symbol of man power and the extravagance of the privileged class.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.206-225
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• 2019

This paper examines the trade and development aspects of glass mirrors through the literature records of the Joseon Dynasty, and studies the characteristics of existing glass mirror crafts by referring to the terms and types shown in the literature. The glass mirror in the records had called western mirrors(西洋鏡, 洋鏡), glass mirrors(玻璃鏡, 玻瓈鏡), stone mirrors(石鏡), etc. Glass mirrors were imported mainly through trade with Russia and the Qing Dynasty since the 17th century and were banned from importation in the late Joseon Dynasty. These mirrors were something new that caused a great stirring in Joseon society in the 18th century, and in the 19th century, it grew larger as a commodity needed for everyday life, especially with trade with Japan. At that time, glass mirrors were used for various purposes, such as installing large glass at a store, which were not the standard mirror usage of confirming one's appearance. These mirrors surprised Koreans in Joseon who experienced them at Yanjing Liulichang(燕京 琉璃廠) in the 18th and 19th centuries. As a result, the demand for glass mirrors rapidly increased and quickly surpassed that of bronze mirrors. Consequentially, new crafts using glass mirrors instead of bronze mirrors in Joseon began to be produced and used after the 18th century. In particular, integrated flat boards of glass mirrors were developed as crafts used indoors. It was convenient to use the hair comb box, a long-time presence in Joseon society, with the bronze mirror. This kind of mirror remained apparent in various genre paintings, including the Taepyeong Seongsido(太平城市圖, 'A Thriving City in a Peaceful Era') collected the National Museum of Korea which reflect its populism of the times. Also, the Mirror Stand(鏡臺) used in the Qing Period was produced in Joseon, but there was a difference in the way of making the drawers and box shapes between two nations. On the other hand, the Face Mirror(面鏡) was made to look at the face. Various crafts made with the aesthetic sense of Joseon, such as the ox horn inlaying craft technique, were produced with auspicious designs. In the 19th century, glass mirrors were imported from European countries, such as France, Denmark, the Netherlands, and the United Kingdom, however after the end of the 19th century Japanese crafts were popular. Glass mirrors, which were popular in the Meiji and Taisho eras of Japan, were imported and also the Mirror Screen(鏡屛) using large glass mirrors were used. In particular, the mirror screen had developed wood furniture since the previous time, which were used for banquets and large spaces, such as the drawing room, and were imported from China and Japan. In addition, the western architectural effect of attaching a mirror to the wall was also attempted to adjust the brightness of the space and introduce another image and scenery in the mirror. This was done at Deoksugung Palace's Seokjojeon.

• Journal for History of Mathematics
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.271-279
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• 2019

Pierre-Simon de Laplace(1749-1827) is considered one of the most influential scientists in history. He was known to his contemporaries as the Newton of France, and a scientific sage valued for his magisterial syntheses of scientific works through the 18th century. Laplace was a determined mathematician, astronomer, writer, philosopher, and educator. In this paper, we take a survey of his achievements in the areas of astronomy and mathematical statistics, along with his scientific philosophy, the universal determinism.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Library and Information Science
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.97-128
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• 1998

Recognizing the importance of reading, and with one motivation being to encourage an upright reading culture, 138 Wise Sayings related to reading by Western leaders were investigated and analyzed according to their country of origin and content as well as the nationalities and occupations, achievements and activities, and the periods of activity of he people who said them. In Wise Sayings related to reading, there are connotations of reading's significance$(30\%)$, methods$(44\%)$, Usefulness$(13\%)$, values$(12\%)$, joys$(1\%)$ and so on, and the expressions vary according to the speakers' occupations. Many of the speakers of wise sayings related to reading were from the powerful and culturally-developed countries of England(36), France(17) and the United states(15), and among 168 occupations, many were engaged in literature(97), philosophy(20), and politics(13) In the field of literature in particular, poets(24), writers(24), and novelists(19) comprised about $70\%$ of the total. In terms of the periods of activity, the 19th-20th century with $33\%$ and the 19th century with $27\%$ made up $60\%$ of the total.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.1
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• pp.14-28
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• 2012

'Beauty(美)' is pursued by many women. It has been expressed through fashion which has become more various as the society became wealthier. This phenomenon can also be found in the Salon Culture of the 17~18th Centuries and in the way that the free-style socialization without specific purposes began by women. Such 'salon culture' fashions have been reproduced in various methods by contemporary fashion designers as they met the trends or as they became the inspiration and source of ideas and were reinterpreted in various styles. Therefore, it is necessary to compare and analyze the studies and expression methods regarding that style's effects on contemporary fashion at a time when the women's salon culture fashion of the 17~18th Centuries is being naturally combined with or restructured to fit in with contemporary fashion. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to analyze, establish the concept of, and summarize the characteristics of the salon fashion style in order to provide fundamental scholarly information and a direction for the fashion design market by establishing a database on the characteristics of both eras based on the characteristics analysis results of the contemporary fashion style and salon culture era. Moreover, this study is also significant in that it will be a helpful tool for new design development to satisfy consumer needs, and in that the comparison analysis on the salon culture and contemporary fashion characteristics can be a useful tool to understand the fashions of both era. The study methods were, first, through a literature review to study the concepts and background of the salon culture. The second method was to setup a style analysis of a period of 4 years and collect visual data from internet fashion information web sites, such as collection books, to collect and analyze the data. Third, the analysis focused mainly on the results of the categorization of images with 20 fashion experts. Fourth, the details of the salon culture fashion style that are used the most in contemporary fashion were summarized and analyzed. Therefore, the results of this study are as follows The development of the socializing culture during the economically abundant era of the 17~18th Centuries became the stepstool for women to enter a new society and at the same time became the background of the development of the salon and related literature. For the characteristics of the salon culture fashion of the 17~18th Centuries, the changes were more significant in the details of the collars, necklines, sleeves, and robes, rather than in partial silhouette changes. It was found that the same fashion repeats in several-century intervals depending on the era changes; however, it has been reinterpreted newly based on consumer preferences and era situations instead of being reused exactly. Therefore, this study will become scholarly and fundamental data to establish the contemporary understanding of the fashion of the salon culture.