• Journal of the Architectural Institute of Korea Planning & Design
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.79-88
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze the plan type of excavation remains during the Mid to Late Joseon period around Jong-ro area in Seoul. 523 building remains were selected in accordance with plan type could identified through the excavation investigation report. Among these, 276 building remains were verified to the $15-16^{th}$, 145 and 102 building were verified to the 17-18th and the $19^{th}$ century. By classifying excavation remains, four dominant plan type of the each century came out. First, -shape was the most common plan type took nearly 50 percent. In a considerable proportion of cases, this plan type seems an annex of main building. However, -shape plan type also seemed to be used for main building in some cases. ㄱ and ㄷshape plan type took the second and the third. In most cases, these types seemed typical plan used for a main housing building. For the last, ㅁshape plan type identified the most unusual. This plan type merely took under five percent but, these cases are meaningful because it shows the plan alteration from ㄷshape to ㅁshape plan type. Existence proportion between each plan types of the $15-16^{th}$ century were continued to the $18-19^{th}$century without small changes between -and ㄱ types in $17-18^h$ century. By examining selected excavation remains, installing front Toi space on ㄱ, ㄷ and ㅁshape plan type stand out clearly compared with -shape plan type. From this tendency, it could be considered that plan type became a significant factor influenced installing Toi space. Similar to periodical tendency of plan type was not changed dramatically, the rate of installing Toi space in the $15-16^{th}$ century was not changed much until the $18-19^{th}$ century. It also shows the close relation between plan type and installing Toi space. In some excavation remains, floor type in the $15-16^{th}$ century also verified. There are some points of similarities on installing typical location of On-dol, Ma-ru and Bu-eok in these excavation remains with later period housing type such as Ut-Bang-Gguk-Oem-Jib and Ddeul-Jib.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.150-162
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• 2014

This study examined the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong(1753~1810) in Jecheon which were excavated in 2012. Lady Sim died at the age of 57 and the excavated relics belonged to the 18th and 19th centuries. The excavated relics consisted of 9 pieces of three-kind-clothes. They showed various qualities such as Plain-Silk, Plaited-Silk, Patterned Twill, Plain Twill, Plain Satin, and Satin Damask. Through comparing them with the other excavated clothes of the 18th and 19th centuries, we can comprehend the periodical changes of the excavated Jegori and Yeomo (the hat for a dead woman). The excavated Jegori shows the difference of length and form from the other Jegori of the 18th century. The total length of the excavated Jegori ranged from 24 cm to 25 cm, which is 10 cm shorter than that of the other Jegori of the 18th century. The excavated hat for a dead woman shows the changes of the form and needlework. The form of a rectangular cover was changed into that of a round shape. In regards to the sewing composition, the way of inserting the cover into Mosin(the body of the hat for a dead woman) was replaced by that of connecting the cover into Mosin. The excavated clothes show three kinds of textile fabrics: plain silk fabrics and plaited silk, plain twill and four-leaf-patterned twill, eight-leaf-plain satin of life-lettered textile and five-leaf satin damask, and plain satin. Especially, the combination of eight-leaf satin and four-leaf twill with mixed textile is considered as a fabric of high quality. The excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong showed a periodical change which was different from the clothes of the 18th century in terms of the formal composition of Jegori and Yeomo. Regarding Women's Jegori a short length and slim and long sleeves are changed into short and tight Jegori, which signaled the specific change of Jegori aesthetics. The significance of the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong lies in its role as the bases for understanding the couture culture of the 19th century.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.658-667
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• 2021

Our study aimed to analyze and reinterpret, by an acoustic approach, the descriptions of the 18th century prosody and introduce the figurative pronunciation system, which is the International Phonetic Alphabet pioneer. Our methodology compares and analyzes grammars and documents on the transcription system and restructures the prosodic structure. It is certain that the 18th century grammarians widely accepted the prosody theories made by Arnauld & Lancelot of the seventeenth century. In particular, grammar scholars accepted the dichotomous classification of the accent structures as prosodic and oratorical accents. The prosodic accent has a relation to intonation, and the oratorical accent has as its key elements intonation and intensity. Regarding the temporal structure, the lengthening of the final syllable was observed systematically by grammarians of the 18th century. This time structure is similar to that of today. Therefore, we can conclude that the final elongation, an essential characteristic of the modern French accent, has already played an imbued role in 18th century prosody. Despite this, the 18th century grammarians did not assign it the status of accent, as it was a stereotype that matches accent with intonation.

• Journal of the Korean School Mathematics Society
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.25-44
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• 2020

This study investigated the representation and algorithms of western mathematics reflected on the algebra domains of Chosun-Sanhak in the 18th century. I also analyzed the co-occurrences and replacement phenomenon between western algorithms and traditional algorithms. For this purpose, I analyzed nine Chosun mathematics books in the 18th century, including Gusuryak and Gosasibijip. The results of this study are as follows. First, I identified the process of changing to a calculation by writing of western mathematics, from traditional four arithmetical operations using Sandae and the formalized explanation for the proportional concept and proportional expression. Second, I observed the gradual formalization of mathematical representation of the solution for a simultaneous linear equation. Lastly, I identified the change of the solution for square root from traditional Gaebangsul and Jeungseunggaebangbeop to a calculation by the writing of western mathematics.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.47
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• pp.261-289
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• 2017

This article is a follow-up on the concept of philosopher/writer and its transformation in the Age of Enlightenment - 1. the dictionary meaning of the term 'philosopher/writer' and the origins of 'literary fields' of the Enlightenment era. In this article, we analyzed changes in the literary field in the late $17^{th}$ century after the expansion of the publishing market. We examined the conflict surrounding philosophers' identifying between modern and traditional philosophers. We have validated that the formation of new readers has made traditional philosophers more sensitive to the 'horizon of expectations' of readers. Some biographical works are also one of our concern. By the end of the $17^{th}$ century, philosophers and writers suddenly became objects of biographical works unlike in the past. Through our research, we found that readers have sought the arrival of a new hero, a great philosopher or a great writer, that will lead a new era, and due to this anticipation, it has led to the publication of biographical works. In this process, we have revealed conceptual changes about authors, writers, philosophers, and so on. In the next article, we will continue advanced discussion on the concept of philosopher/writer.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.9
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• pp.901-915
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• 2012

This study comparatively analyzes the characteristics, changes, and differences in class-based costume typology according to a concept of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people in France. The methods and contents are as follow. First, the scope of common people is grasped according to the historical background and a concept of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people in France. Second, through considering a prior research on analyzing the data of ancient documents on the economy of clothing, it classifies common people into bourgeoisie, urban common people, rural common people, and the destitute. It then examines diachronic evolution, and class-based synchronic difference in the consumption of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people's costumes in France. Third, it analyzes the appearance frequency by period according to type of common people's costumes, which were shown in pictorial materials with 283 sheets of engravings and 54 pieces of paintings; in addition, it reconstructs the succession and expansion in typology. It grasps differences and changes in morphology by class, space, and period of typology for common people's costumes. Common people's consumption of costumes was understood to have grown in qualitative aspects as well as a rise in the whole clothing demand. A class-based structure formed and indicated that a fashion cycle existed. As a result of analyzing common people's clothes (shown in pictorial materials of the $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century) 41 items were grasped by gender and according to costume kind. Typology in common people's costumes (classified into bourgeoisie, urban common people, rural common people, and the destitute) showed a change by period. A change in typical costume typology was accepted more by the bourgeoisie than by urban and rural common people, and was accepted more by rural communities than by urban populations. Thus, a difference was formed through an expansion with a temporal difference that depended on class and space.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.97-104
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• 1986

The change and development of costume are related to the cultural and socioeconomic factors. In the 18th century the mode of the women's costume in France was greatly influenced by the Rococo style. Elegance and exaggerated ornaments were the major characteristics of the woman's cos-tume in the Rococo period. The high hairdress and the widely hooped panier represented the typical Rococo fashion. From the second half of the 18th century onwards the aristocracy began to lose the battle with the bourgeoisie for political and economic power, and at the same time bourgeoisie fashion exerted an influence on court dress. The court fashion dominated the women's dress fashion in France up to the Revolution. Marie Antoinette, The Queen of Louis XVI, was one of the most influential fashion leaders in the lath century. The fashion, after attaining its highest point in 1770s, changed to a new direction in 1780s under Louis XVI. From that period onward the dimensions were smaller, hairdresses were not so high, and the trimming on the various garments was less liberal. In the mode, exaggeration was replaced by simplicity, and formality was replaced by functionalism.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.56-72
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• 1998

Vest is a general term for a sleeveless upper garment and it derives from a kolobus of a sleeveless tunic style that was started to be worn as a substitution of a chiton by the peasantry in Greek period. The kolobus started to be called a colobium or a tunica from Roman period and the former was named for a vest style tunica which was worn by the people of the lower classes in early Roman period. Similarly, a German colobium of North Europe which was worn during the same period was the same kind of clothe as the Roman colobium. The colobium came to be worn over a dalmatica as an outer garment by early Christians when it was the Middle Ages, who succeeded the tradition of colobium as they went through ancient Rome, Creek and Byzantine days. North Germans also succeeded the colobium tradition of ancient Germans as it was and so continued to wear it in tight style. The simple vest style of colobium was getting vanished from the mid of the Middle Agnes and a new style of vest named jupon was started to be worn by soldiers. The jupon was to protect soldiers' bodies from either were cold weather or enemies wearing under armors as it was made with double cotton pad by quilt. From 14th century, the jupon began to be worn by not only soldiers but also the humble of lower classes. All the jupon which were made in quilting and padding of that time began to be named a pourpoint by the humble. When Renaissance in 16th century came, the pourpoint began to be developed to an exaggerating body-line style. The neckline of pourpoint was getting highly influenced by Spain and a peacecod-belly of it emphasized the exaggerated masculine beauty of Renaissance by padding in round. The sleeves were puffed out and the whole purpoint was made to expose an inner chemise by slashing vertically or obliquely. But in 17th century, the pourpoint has been changed into more simple style without padding, puffing out and slashing influenced by the citizens' clothes of Netherlands. The pourpoint came to be more comfortable bulky style with short sleeves or sleeveless and straight side lines. The pourpoint in mid 17th century turned to be a bolero jacket style by gradually being tightened. It had been then changed into a vest style with sleeves and worn under an overcoat with the name of vest in the end of 17th century. The early vest was 2∼3 inches les in length than the overcoat and had long sleeves and many ornamental buttons on front. It was also made as a home wear to be worn it alone at home. In 18th century, the length of the vest became shorter compared with that of 17th century and the most important decorative item in clothes. It again came to have complete sleeveless vest style and had very short length reaching waist in the end of 18th century. When it was in 19th century, the vest had developed into more various style and colors and style had been applied to be worn by individuals with their tastes. Around the end of 19th century, the increasing tendency to be casual by industrialization influenced on clothes in all aspects of life and so the male vest has been gradually changed into more casual style. Nowadays, it has been developing into various uses in modern male clothes to show their characters.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.571-578
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• 2016

This study analyzed the pigments used in two portraits of Sim Hui-su using scanning electron microscopy/energy dispersive spectroscopy(SEM/EDS), X-ray diffraction(XRD) analysis, and microscopic observation, and then compared the results to those from nondestructive analysis. It was estimated that cinnabar/vermilion and minium were used for the red pigment, azurite for the blue pigment, atacamite for the green pigment, and lead white for the white pigment. These results were compared to the pigments of six portraits with a similar format, full-length official-attire portraits from the $17-18^{th}$ century Joseon period. It was revealed that the composition of the pigments used in the portraits varied depending on the date of production. Iron oxide, another red pigment, was used in the $18^{th}$ century. As for the blue colorant, smalt was used in the late $18^{th}$ century, whereas it was absent until the early $18^{th}$ century.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.49-61
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• 2019

This study aims to examine the spatial recognition of the characters who visited Anuisamdong(安義三洞) in the past and left it in the literature. Thus, the school's relationship between people identified in the relevant literature was analyzed and the elements of landscape were extracted. The results were as follows; First, The figures who authored the literature on Anuisamdong were related to scholars living in Anuihyun(安義縣), along with the Yeongnam confucian genealogy. Starting with Jung, Yeo-Chang(鄭汝昌) in the 15th century, a relationship centered on Nammyeong School(南溟學派) in the 16th century was formed. At that time, people had toured the Anuisamdong regardless of the academic background. In the 17th century, Nammyeong School were in conflict with Toegye School(退溪學派), so Toegye School's influence had no record. In the 18th century, the proportion of Nammyeong School, Toegye School, and Kiho School(畿湖學派) appeared similar as they evolved into the Yeongnam School(嶺南學派). After the 19th century, the proportion of patriots who participated in the anti-Japanese movement was higher than that of schools. Second, The main places used in the literature related to Anuisamdongwere the order of Wonhakdong(猿鶴洞), Hwrimdong(花林洞) and Simjindong(尋眞洞). There are a total of 21 major elements used for the related literature, of which Suseungdae Rock(搜勝臺), Morijae House(某里齋), Nongwaljeong Pavilion(弄月亭), Sasundae Rock(四仙臺) and Cheoksuam Rock(滌愁巖) were the main subjects. Elements of Wonhakdong have been in the spotlight since the 16th century, focusing on Suseungdae Rock. Although the elements of Hwarimdong have been increasing gradually since the 18th century, the ratio of Simjindong to Wonhakdong and Hwarimdong was relatively small. Third, The relationship between the figures who visited the Anuisamdong and the spatial recognition of the Anuisamdong was divided into landscape awareness, emotional awareness and symbolic recognition. The Anuisamdong's scenic view is mostly identified by its description of the waterscape and topographical landscape, which people may have perceived as a scenic site centered on the valley view at the time. The mutual influence of Nammyeong School and Toegye School in the 16th and 17th centuries led to a scene in which the major figures of each school recognized pleasure as a culture of training, and a feeling of longing for the traces of past ancestors as the 18th century travel culture and the 19th century chaotic situation. In addition, the symbolic expression that usually appears is likely to have been recognized as a unworldly place, as the location of the immortal world is confirmed.