• 복식
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• 제62권1호
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• pp.14-28
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• 2012

'Beauty(美)' is pursued by many women. It has been expressed through fashion which has become more various as the society became wealthier. This phenomenon can also be found in the Salon Culture of the 17~18th Centuries and in the way that the free-style socialization without specific purposes began by women. Such 'salon culture' fashions have been reproduced in various methods by contemporary fashion designers as they met the trends or as they became the inspiration and source of ideas and were reinterpreted in various styles. Therefore, it is necessary to compare and analyze the studies and expression methods regarding that style's effects on contemporary fashion at a time when the women's salon culture fashion of the 17~18th Centuries is being naturally combined with or restructured to fit in with contemporary fashion. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to analyze, establish the concept of, and summarize the characteristics of the salon fashion style in order to provide fundamental scholarly information and a direction for the fashion design market by establishing a database on the characteristics of both eras based on the characteristics analysis results of the contemporary fashion style and salon culture era. Moreover, this study is also significant in that it will be a helpful tool for new design development to satisfy consumer needs, and in that the comparison analysis on the salon culture and contemporary fashion characteristics can be a useful tool to understand the fashions of both era. The study methods were, first, through a literature review to study the concepts and background of the salon culture. The second method was to setup a style analysis of a period of 4 years and collect visual data from internet fashion information web sites, such as collection books, to collect and analyze the data. Third, the analysis focused mainly on the results of the categorization of images with 20 fashion experts. Fourth, the details of the salon culture fashion style that are used the most in contemporary fashion were summarized and analyzed. Therefore, the results of this study are as follows The development of the socializing culture during the economically abundant era of the 17~18th Centuries became the stepstool for women to enter a new society and at the same time became the background of the development of the salon and related literature. For the characteristics of the salon culture fashion of the 17~18th Centuries, the changes were more significant in the details of the collars, necklines, sleeves, and robes, rather than in partial silhouette changes. It was found that the same fashion repeats in several-century intervals depending on the era changes; however, it has been reinterpreted newly based on consumer preferences and era situations instead of being reused exactly. Therefore, this study will become scholarly and fundamental data to establish the contemporary understanding of the fashion of the salon culture.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.1083-1098
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• 2009

The purpose of the study is to revaluate the new artistic values of Suprematism that immensely influenced the Russian culture in the beginning of the 20th century. Also through studying the relationship between people and costume within works of Malevich, who wanted to portray humanity through his art works, this study will research on how Suprematism not just stood as Russian Avant-garde art but significantly contributed to art and costume expression. The study methods are as follows. First, consider the formative background of Suprematism style of arts. Second, study of the development of Suprematism art through both Suprematism art and Non-objective art. Third, study how Suprematism style of arts is portrayed in art costume through works of Malevich. The results of the study are as follows. The Russian Suprematism art costume strictly originated from the Russian Suprematism style of arts. Suprematism simplified any reproductive element of fine art with a creative energy, which reflects the statement of Malevich that said, "The object does not exist, it only stands as a symbol." In other words, Suprematism abolished ordinary response to basic environment, and created a much more serious reality than the innate reality of the environment. When applied to art costume, such style sought after geometrical simplicity in shape and Neo-Premitivism trait in color. This trend is also expressed in 21st century fashion in new forms of Minimalism or Futurism. In this respect, Suprematism still holds an artistic value in a novel form even after a century since the beginning of 20th century when Malevich first presented Suprematism.

• 복식
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• 제65권3호
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• pp.131-150
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• 2015

This article studied the procedures and items used in royal princess weddings by examining "Garyedeungrok(嘉禮謄錄)" which describes Princess Hwasun(和順翁主, 1720-1758)'s wedding in 1732. This was the first wedding by a princess during King Yeongjo(英祖)'s reign. Preparation for the wedding was made based on the previous weddings of royal princesses, but it did not follow the old tradition. The wedding costs were cut down, and it was done in a simpler way than before. However, the simplification of elaborate wedding outfits were not part of this change as ceremonial robes such as No-ui(露衣), Jangsam(長衫) and Chopo(綃袍) were used without much alteration. The wedding ceremony of Princess Hwasun shows the transition process from the royal princess wedding ceremony traditions and rituals in the late 17th century to "Gukhonjeongrye", which emerged and became solidified as a new social norm in the 18th century. A legitimate royal princess and a de facto princess from King's concubine were hardly different when it came to their royal outfitting but the disparity in social status between the two was found in the materials used to make clothes for their respective husbands. Princess Hwasun's wedding procedure shown in "Garyedeungrok" is similar to that of "Gukjo-orye-ui(國朝五禮儀)": Napchae(納采), Nappye(納幣), Chinyeong(親迎), Dongroe(同牢), Hyeongugo(見舅姑), Hyeonsadang(見祠堂), and Seojohyeon(壻朝見). But "Garyedeungrok" deals with the procedures of Gantaek(揀擇), Buma-guanrye(駙馬冠禮), and Seonon(宣醞), which are not included in "Gukjo-orye-ui", and also with the process of preparation for wedding items and the information of related people. However, it is hard to learn about its specific shapes and features because it is often restricted to lists such as a list of clothing. Collecting new materials and an in-depth and succeeding study are required in the future.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.17-26
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• 2004

Not much is known about Korean clothes from past centuries. Fortunately, we are able to make some inferences based on various sources of data other than the actual clothes themselves. Historical records such as Kim Hong-do's Pungsokhwa Pieces, well known to us, vividly depict features of the costume and the lifestyle of his time along with contemporary Korean humor and atmosphere. Kim Hong-do is the artist who, having accomplished pictorial refinement, recognized social change and took this into his artistic world late in the 18th century. The ruling classes, in contrast, tended to adhere to anachronistic medieval philosophies in a gradually changing society. In this study, Kim Hong-do's Pungsokhwachop, Treasure No. 527, preserved in the National Museum of Korea, was viewed from a new perspective, and it was discovered to have assorted the costume and culture of ordinary people according to their life styles. Fourteen of the pieces depicted how common citizens made their living, three described love affairs, five depicted people at play, md the rest showed elements of education, wedding ceremonies, and shamanism, respectively. Various types of clothing were observed reflecting the life styles of ordinary people, and a somewhat bold exposure of body was noticed in women's fashion in the late Chosun Dynasty. They chose clothing as they pleased to fit their jobs and functions, which produced elegant self-regulation and creativity based on practical beauty. A hat - yet to be found as a relic - appeared in Blacksmith's Workshop, and revealed the changing social customs of the late Chosun Dynasty in the 18th century. It is hoped that the results of this study will serve as a valuable reference point for the globalization of Korean clothes.

• 복식
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• 제23권
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• pp.197-209
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to present a way to analyze and review the subjective view of the aesthetic for dress based on the framework of the aesthetic categories suggested by aesthetics. In order to define objectivism and subjectivism of the aesthetic of dress, theoretical studies on the aesthetic categories of dress were precded. And empirical studies on the aethetic categories of dress for selected period, the Renaissance (16th century) and the Baroque(17 th century). The results were follows : The objectivism of the aesthetic is the point of that an object causes human to feel and judge aesthetically, that is that of dress means judge aesthetically, that is that of dress means formal characteristic of dress and pervasive ideology expressed in dress. the subjectivism of the aesthetic is the point that the aesthetic is ruted in human, that is that of dress has been studied in relation to the image, the aesthetic consciousness m, or the aesthetic categories of dress. Especially, the aesthetic category is one of the universal and valid methods for the analysis of subjectivism of the aesthetic for dress. This study includes beauty, grace, elegance , the sublime, the tragic , the comic, aptness, ugliness as aesthetic categories of dress . Beauty is perfection and rule. Grace pleases human by sense. Elegance comes from the harmony of sense and spirit. the sublime comes into existence that human feels pleasure as well as displeasure simultaneously when human is overehelmed by objects. The tragic is the sense of the present of something valuable even if there is suffering. The comic is the sense of the presence of something amusing even if there is displeasure caused by contradiction. Apteness means utility in terms of the objectivism and , formality in terms of the subejctivism. Ugliness is opposite to beauty. As the result of emperical studies, the aesthetic categories of the Renaissance dress showed harmonious, balanced, and symmetrical beauty, and the magnificent, and enlarged sublime. In addition to these , grace and elegance were also found to some extent. Aesthetic categories of the Baroque dress show feminie, soft, cheerful, and fantastic grace, asymmetric , disarmonious, and extraordinary uglinesss, and the magnificient , grave, and dignified sublime.

• 복식
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• 제59권10호
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• pp.51-67
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• 2009

The study is about 'Dap-ho', a kind of men's coat in the early, and mid period of Joseon Dynasty. The study examined the kinds, color, and fabric of Dap-ho from "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty". It also examined the characteristic, and the change of shape through excavated costume, and the period is limited until early 17th century. In "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", there is record of Dap-ho from King Sejong period to Gwang-hae-gun period. After 160 years, it appears again in King Young-jo period, and remains until King Soon-jong period. It was mentioned 168 times, from over 100 cases. There are 26 colors of Dap-ho from "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", and among them, green appears the most. Thin fabric, like Joo [紬], Sa[紗], and Cho[綃] was used often, and there are records of double layered, and cotton padded Dap-ho. The period when Dap-ho appears as excavated costume is almost the same as, "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty" and disappears after the decease of Dae-ho Kang(1541-1624), and Sun-un Yun(1580~1628). After in this period, Dan-ryung, and Jik-ryung changes into double layered clothes, and Jik-ryung functioned as the underclothes of Dan-ryung, instead of Dap-ho. The excavated costumes of Hwak Kim(1572~1633), and Eung-hae Lee(1547~1626) proofs this. But Dap-ho was called 'Jun-bok', 'Dugree', Que-ja', and 'Dap-ho' until the later period of Joseon Dynasty.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.77-94
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• 2011

It is not clear to assume the history of dyeing by persimmon juice without an early knowledge of an accurate record. However, the beginning of persimmon dyeing in Korea is estimated to be around the $13^th$-$14^th$ century, even though there are no supporting records. On the other hand, there are definite records of persimmon dyeing in Japan from around the 17th century. Persimmon juice was originally used for fishing tools in both Korea and Japan, but upon entering the Modern Era it eventually transfigured into a dye for fabric. In Korea, persimmon-dyed fabrics were used for traditional clothing until it also became a popular choice for modern clothes in the 1990s. In Japan, persimmon juice was originally used for varnishing surfaces of household items, but it recently became a material for arts, crafts, and even apparels. The main difference between persimmon dyeing of the two countries is the presence and absence of the fermentation process. In Korea, persimmons are picked and water is immediately added to its juice to produce the dye. In contrast, Japan produces a fermented persimmon dye. As a result, in Korea the dye can not be preserved for long periods, whilst in Japan it is matured in the storage for 2-3 years. Today's pursuit of eco-friendliness and wellness has prompted an inclination towards natural material clothes. Therefore, it is necessary for both countries to push scientific research into improving the storage methods and colorfastness of persimmon-dyed products for the increase of use consumption in other areas of persimmon and arrowroot dyed fabrics, and the development of environment friendly materials.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.23-30
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• 1994

This thesis researched for the conservation of a suit of armor that General Jung, Choong Sin had been worn in the 17th century, and of military uniform that was in perfect condition even though it had been underground for over 300years since 1676. As the armor was made with silk and cotton, it was treated by the dry cleaning method and the mild charge system. In the dry cleaning method, the used solvents were n-hexane and n-decane. And the percentage of the dry soap was 2 in the mild charge system. As the military uniform was made with only silk, it was treated by the dry cleaning method through the solvent of n-hexane and n-decane. Armor was repaired by scoured hemp partially, but military uniform became too deteriorated seriously to repair.

• 복식
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• 제60권7호
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• pp.74-87
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• 2010

Jeokgwan(翟冠, crown decorated with pheasant motifs) is a queen's ceremonial headdress during the early Joseon dynasty. It originated from Bong-gwan(鳳冠, crown decorated with phoenix motifs) worn by the Chinese empress. Bong-gwan(鳳冠) was originally various types of hairpins worn with the topknot hair style, such as Bongchae(鳳釵) Hwasu(花樹) Bakbin(博鬢), but during the Sung dynasty(宋, 960-1279) these ornamental hairpins were combined with the crown worn by the empress. Bong-gwan(鳳冠) worn during the Ming dynasty(明, 1368-1644) varied according to the wearer's social status and it was worn both by the empress and other court ladies. Jeokgwan(翟冠), one type of Bong-gwan(鳳冠) worn by the queens and princesses of Ming dynasty, was given to those of the Joseon dynasty as a gift until the early 17th century. According to the portraits and remains of China, when women wore the Jeokgwan(翟冠), they were supposed to place the crown onto the hair, and then, fix the crown to the hair by putting on gorgeous hairpins. The lower edge of the crown was wrapped around with Gu-gwon(口圈), which was decorated with kingfisher's feathers. There are several flowery decorations on Gu-gwon(口圈), and this style is similar to Daeyobanja(大腰斑子), a queen's ceremonial hairband during the late Joseon dynasty.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.70-74
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• 2005

This study was aimed to isolation and identification of attached bacteria on the clothes excavated from Deajeon area dating on the 16th century. From the observation with colony shape, 17 bacterial strains were isolated, and then 7 bacterial strains were identified with morphological and biochemical characteristics. Streptococcus sp., Alcaligenes faecalis, Gemella sp., Acinetobacter sp., Pseudomonas vesicularis, Aeromonas sain. salmonicida, Moraxella spp. In observation of the bacterial strains by the sort of textile, more bacterial strains were found in silk, cotton, and cotton batt than in ramie and hemp. It is suggest that hemp has antibacterial characteristics due to the presence of lignin. In the comparison washed samples with unwashed ones, there were more kinds of bacterial strains in washed samples. In the cellulase activity tests, all isolated bacteria had low level cellulase activity.