• MALSORI
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• no.48
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• pp.35-55
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• 2003

The aim of this study is to clarify the process of the sound changes of Japanese consonants (Dakuons) in the analysis of the transcriptions of Korean Source-Materials (i.e. Japanese textbooks for Korean and the records of travel in Japan) written in the 15-l8th centuries with the Korean writing system. Especially these records of travel in Japan are meaningful in that the process of change of Dakuon is shown in detail. The results are as follows. 1) In the 15th century, all Dakuons /g d z b/ had nasality. 2) The nasality of /z/ and /b/ disappeared in the 16th century. 3) The nasality of /d/ disappeared in the late 17th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.13-28
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• 2012

This study examines history of Korean peony patterns and characteristics of peony patterns on the fabric. It is classified according to expression methods, and it analyzes the characteristics of 71 kinds of peony woven on 66 Korean fabrics. First, it was observed that 38 of the 66 studied fabrics (57.6%) were relics from the 17th century, and from this it can be deduced that the peony patterns began to appear regularly around the latter half of the 16th century and were used habitually in the 17th century. Second, 71 kinds on 66 fabrics can be divided into Real Type, Design Type, and Abstraction Type according to expression methods. Among these types, 49 kinds of them are Real Types (69.0%), forming the greatest part and 19 kinds belonging to the Design Type (26.8%), and lastly, 3 kinds were under the Abstraction Type (4.2%). In particular, peony patterns of Design Types and Abstraction Types from the 17th century and from the 19th century to the 20th century were more prevalent, compared with those before the 16th century or the 18th century. Third, Real Types shown on the Korean fabrics are subdivided into 9 types, and the Real Type A among them, which describes to be as real as possible, is 12 kinds, the largest number of them. Therefore, real and natural pattern of peony is the favorite type in Korea, while rather emphasized pattern of peony is the more preferred pattern in China. And also Design Types are subdivided into 6 types again; There are 6 kinds of design type A, the largest part of Design Types. Patterns of Design Type A are most similar to real peony flowers, but more simplified than the Real Type A. This result also contrasted with the trend in China, where the Design Type C, expressed petals in detail was the favored pattern. Fourth, 9 kinds of unique types are found in Korean fabrics, especially Real Type M has not been shown on Chinese fabrics. Real type M, consisting of two parts, inner and outer, where two curve lines between two parts appear as antennas of a butterfly.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.36-52
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• 2008

Writer Hong Myung-hee, author of the novel Im Kkeok Jeong, provided an excellent description of the costume customs of the Chosun era, based on an understanding of various historical texts and literature by practical science proponents, and experience gained from the Hong household of Pungsan, a noble family of high standing during the Chosun dynasty. However, there is a tendency towards descriptions of late Chosun era customs, rather than 16th century customs, with the intent of heightening the image of what most people felt to represent Chosun and its prestige, thereby generating greater reader sympathy. Therefore, information on the costume customs of the novel 1m Kkeok Jeong is analyzed and re-formed to fit with the temporal setting of the 16th century. By providing data to aid visual understanding and re-creation, the intent is to accept it as material for the rumination of our ancestors and their lifestyles in the 16th century. The novel provides a good description of Chosun economic customs, in which cotton and hemp were used not only as fabric for clothes, but also as currency. The trade value of cotton drapery or hemp drapery with dimensions of 5 strand density at a length of 35 ja per roll was designated as 5 mal (about 90 liters) of rice by national law, but the actual value varied depending on the production of rice. Also, it is possible to confirm the existence of sang po with dimensions of 3 strand density at a length of 30 ja per roll, or 2 strand density seochongdae cotton, which was used only as currency due to the rough quality. Characteristics of the Chosun dynasty, a class-based society, are described through distinctions of attire. The writer's intent regarding the symbolic nature of attire reflecting social position, a characteristic of the entire Chosun period, is analyzed with the presentation of visual material.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.145-154
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• 2002

1. The blended tabby whose warp and weft each employs a different kind of thread had been weaved since the era of the Three Kingdoms in this nation and since the period of Han in China. Especially in the 15th century. very finely weaved fabrics as the specialty of Chosun were exported to China. In the 16th century. blended tabby weaved with silk and cotton were often used for clothes as cotton was produced around the nation. And in the 17th century. blended tabby employing high quality Chinese raw silk other than existing ones were weaved. 2. It has been found in literature review that Honpo, one of Chosun's blended tabby. was manufactured mainly in Hamkyung, Cholla and Kyungsang provinces and mostly distributed through markets of Chungchong and Cholla provinces. 3. Out of the total 19 fabric pieces. 13 employed silk thread as the warp and cotton thread as the weft. Compared with the weft. in general. the warp is given more tension when weaved and more friction by spindles, being more likely to be twisted than the weft. In addition to starching, a stronger thread is requested as the warp. It is natural that in the Chosun period, silk thread more stronger than cotton thread was used as the warp to make more durable fabrics. For the weft requiring lots of threads when weaved. cotton thread was mainly used in the 17th century because the thread could be easily obtained at that time. 4. So far the study has made an empirical review of Chosun's blended tabby. especially those of the 15th∼17th century, in terms of their production and distribution. Findings from the study have some limit because they have been made focusing on the 15th∼17th century not the whole period of Chosun. Therefore it is needed to complement those findings through further studies.

• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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• v.43 no.6
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• pp.858-872
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• 2008

This study examined the meteorological disaster of Jeju Island in Chosun Dynasty based on historical documents, and analyzed how its government and Jeju Islanders responded to this. Recording cases of abnormal weather days of Jeju Island in Chosun Dynasty were most in 17th Century, and then in 18th Century, 16th Century, 15th Century, and 19th Century in order. For the type of meteorological disaster, storm damage was most serious, and then flood disaster, drought disaster, and snow damage were in order. For the region, Jejumok was mostly damaged from storm and flood, and Daejeonghyeon was mostly from drought. Once meteorological disaster occurred, it was a common thing that it continued with famine. The Chosun government relieved Jeju Islanders by moving the grains of mainland into Jeju Island, and for this, installed Galdujin warehouse, Naripo warehouse, and Jemin warehouse. Also, it tried to resolve chronic famine by moving Jeju people into mainland such as Pyeong'an-do. Corresponding to severe weather, the farmers of Jeju Island implemented agricultural methods such as Dapjeon, Baryeong, molding, and wind-breaking; and the seamen conducted unique arts of navigation such as Hwanjeon, and gravel shipment.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.10-24
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• 2017

The research takes note of the formation process and settling period of Gwandong-Palkyung(關東八景, Eight Sites of Eastern Korea), the representative palgyeong(prominent eight sites) and jipgyeong(集景, landscape collection of scenic beauty), and investigates the time of formation regarding the palkyung and jipgeyong of Gwandong's scenic beauty through the analysis and interpretation of bibliographic data, and reference data. The result of the study is as follows. As the first document that records the terminology of "Gwandong-Palkyung" is "Daphongeunggil(答洪應吉)" of Yi, Hwang(李滉), Gwandong-Palkyung is inferred to be settled within the recognition of the people even before the 16th century. The geographic analysis result including "Sinjeung Donggukyeojiseungram(新增東國輿地勝覽)", Gwandong-Palkyung expanded as Gwandong-Sipkyung in early to middle of the 16th century. The first confirmed landscape collection regarding Gwandong-Palkyung in this study is confirmed in Shin Zup(申楫)'s "Yeonggwandong-Palkyung(詠關東八景)", thus, the terminology of Gwandong-Palkyung existed before 16th century at the latest. The settlement time of current "Palkyung" collection is estimated to be early 17th century at the latest. Poetries regarding Gwandong-Palkyung, and the frequency on the appearance of Gwandong scenic beauties are analyzed as making clear of the concentrated phenomenon on the sceneries of Gwandong-Palkyung. On the other hand, the collection of Gwandong-Palkyung in the domain of arts is confirmed initially in the ${\ll}$Gwandongpalkyungdobyeong(關東八景圖屛)${\gg}$ of Heo, Pil(許泌). Gwandong-Palkyung, expressed as the actual scene landscape painting shows similar tendencies of the conditions in the jipgyeong from the poetry, but the appearance rate of the painting subject was more prominent in visual solidarity and cohesion due to the reflection of the importance on icon(圖像) of the art works produced with particular meaning in the case of fixed ideal system. From late Joseon to modern times, ${\ll}$palpokbyeongpung(八幅屛風)${\gg}$ of various forms of folk painting is a corroborative evidence notifying that the cultural phenomenon of Gwandong-Palkyung has entered the universal period of embrace. Also, the 13 scenic beauties of Gangwon-Do appearing in the games of Namseungdo and Myeongseungyuramdo include Gwandong-Palkyung, which confirms the settlement of Gwandog-Palkyung even within the culture of games in late Joseon. Such results demonstrate the existence of awareness regarding Gwandong-Palkyung from the first half of the 15th century, which is presumed to have completely settled in the 17th century through the continuous development of formative process in the 16th century. Ultimately, Gwandong-Palkyung is the concrete formation of regional scenic beauties that individually gained its reputations as scenery from the Koryo Dynasty to late 17th century. Gwandong-Palkyung of the scenic beauty of Gwandong is a unique cultural scenery of the region that have germinated and formed through the process of cutting and polishing of long time to collect the best eight of scenic beauty from the many participation of sightseeing culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.33
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• pp.157-173
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• 1997

The Mannerism which was born on Italy in 16th century was the critical trend of art influencing the political economical and psychological trends and was the first mo-dality which respected the individual sense of artist. The cultural situation of that time es-pecially the alienation of men is similar to the pluralism of value the coexistency of conflict the acceptance of heterogeneity and uncer-tainty I modern century. This paper analysed the pattern of change in the trend of Mannerism in modern costume by comparing current trend from the past focus-ing th fact that the over-all situation in this century is similar to that of Mannerism in 16th century. In this paper the author suggests the Defor-mation Ambiguity and Irreglarity as the character of manneristic trend which has re-solved the sense of alienation of men by paradoxic expression. The results of comparing the characteristic of mannerism to the modern costume is followd; 1. The Deformation in modern costume is grossly subdivided to the transfrmation of morphology the transformation of scale and the breakdown of equilibrium 2. The ambiguity in the modern costume can be subdivided to the eclecticistic expression and the ambiguity of spatial concept(between inner and outer garments). 3. The illogiclities in modern costume are the technique of illusion structural illogicality and the collage technique.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.56-72
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• 1998

Vest is a general term for a sleeveless upper garment and it derives from a kolobus of a sleeveless tunic style that was started to be worn as a substitution of a chiton by the peasantry in Greek period. The kolobus started to be called a colobium or a tunica from Roman period and the former was named for a vest style tunica which was worn by the people of the lower classes in early Roman period. Similarly, a German colobium of North Europe which was worn during the same period was the same kind of clothe as the Roman colobium. The colobium came to be worn over a dalmatica as an outer garment by early Christians when it was the Middle Ages, who succeeded the tradition of colobium as they went through ancient Rome, Creek and Byzantine days. North Germans also succeeded the colobium tradition of ancient Germans as it was and so continued to wear it in tight style. The simple vest style of colobium was getting vanished from the mid of the Middle Agnes and a new style of vest named jupon was started to be worn by soldiers. The jupon was to protect soldiers' bodies from either were cold weather or enemies wearing under armors as it was made with double cotton pad by quilt. From 14th century, the jupon began to be worn by not only soldiers but also the humble of lower classes. All the jupon which were made in quilting and padding of that time began to be named a pourpoint by the humble. When Renaissance in 16th century came, the pourpoint began to be developed to an exaggerating body-line style. The neckline of pourpoint was getting highly influenced by Spain and a peacecod-belly of it emphasized the exaggerated masculine beauty of Renaissance by padding in round. The sleeves were puffed out and the whole purpoint was made to expose an inner chemise by slashing vertically or obliquely. But in 17th century, the pourpoint has been changed into more simple style without padding, puffing out and slashing influenced by the citizens' clothes of Netherlands. The pourpoint came to be more comfortable bulky style with short sleeves or sleeveless and straight side lines. The pourpoint in mid 17th century turned to be a bolero jacket style by gradually being tightened. It had been then changed into a vest style with sleeves and worn under an overcoat with the name of vest in the end of 17th century. The early vest was 2∼3 inches les in length than the overcoat and had long sleeves and many ornamental buttons on front. It was also made as a home wear to be worn it alone at home. In 18th century, the length of the vest became shorter compared with that of 17th century and the most important decorative item in clothes. It again came to have complete sleeveless vest style and had very short length reaching waist in the end of 18th century. When it was in 19th century, the vest had developed into more various style and colors and style had been applied to be worn by individuals with their tastes. Around the end of 19th century, the increasing tendency to be casual by industrialization influenced on clothes in all aspects of life and so the male vest has been gradually changed into more casual style. Nowadays, it has been developing into various uses in modern male clothes to show their characters.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.77-77
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• 2003

If we look closely to the power shift of the powerful countries historically. during the 16th century Spain's power came from gold, colony trade, the mercenary force, close relation with the thrown, 17th century Netherlands owes their power to trade, capital market, the marines, 18th century France owes it to population, agriculture, public administration, and the army. Also, England had their industry, political unity, finance and trust, the marines, liberalistic principles, a geographical merit of being an island which can be defended well and the 20th century America has their cosmopolitan culture, supernational communication, the capacity of the economy, science technology, military strength, alliances, liberalism international formation. But in the 21st century culture and art will prevail over the information age where technology and knowledge was the key, and it is predicted that this will be the source of power for a strong country. Rolfe Yesson, the head of The Copenhagen Research Center for future studies said, "Information age has ended and in the future Dream Society will arrive which focuses on making distinctions by delivering dreams and emotions to consumers". As cyberspace gradually substitutes reality, cyberspace has become more than an information search engine and has become a place where people fulfill their desires and exchange culture. And as a medium for diffusing culture, the importance of the digital dress-up avatar is predicted to increase gradually.gradually.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.347-357
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• 2002

In 1536, two Piedmontese merchants set up workshops in Lyons, and Henri IV encourged further development later in the 16th century. The development of Lyons as a centre of the silk weaving industry was helped by the perfection of drawloom weaving technique there in 1605 by Claude Dangon. In the 17th century, the French silk industry could finally compete with the dominance of the Italian silk trade. The French silk industry was promoted in the mid-17th century under Louis XIV's minister Colbert. In 1667, he published an ordinance creating La Grande Fabrique, a corporation for craftsmen within the silk industry, and Lyons became the undisputed French silk capital. Under Louis X IV, France was becoming the dominant force in Europe in matters of fashion and style. The major innovation of weaving was the Jacquard head attachment, which provided a mechanical means of raising warp threads by a series of punched cards. The are nouveau style did not have much impact on French silk design at the end of the century. Silk manufacturers began to collaborate with haute-couture designers such as the House of Worth. This collaboration with the burgeoning Paris haute-couture industry continued into the 20th century and safeguarded the future production of silk textiles in France.