• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.246-256
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• 2021

Various development projects occurring on the coast cause an imbalance of surface sediments, causing coastal disasters or irreversible coastal erosion. Coastal erosion caused by the influence of various port structures built through coastal development can be directly identified by evaluating changes in the sediment budget, longshore sediment, and cross-shore sediment. In other words, it will be possible to evaluate the causality between coastal development and coastal erosion by classifying regions due to single cause and regions due to multiple causes according to the changes in the sediment classified into the three types mentioned above. In this study, the cause of long-term and continuous erosion was analyzed based on the analysis results of the coastal development history and the Coastal Erosion Monitoring targeting the coast of Gangwon-do and Gyeongsangbuk-do on the east coast. In addition, in order to evaluate the degree of erosion caused by the construction of artificial coastal structures, the concept of erosion impact assessment was established, three methods were proposed for the impact assessment. The erosion impact of Hajeo port was assessed using the results of satellite image analysis presented in the Coastal Erosion Monitoring Report, it was assessed that the development of Hajeo port had an impact of 93.4% on erosion, and that of the coastal road construction had an impact of 6.6%.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.28-39
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• 2019

In the design process of counter measures against the beach erosion, information like the main sediment transport mode and yearly net amount of longshore and cross shore transport is of great engineering value. In this rationale, we numerically analyzed the yearly sediment budget of the Mang-Bang beach which is suffering from erosion problem. For the case of cross sediment transport, Bailard's model (1981) having its roots on the Bagnold's energy model (1963) is utilized. In doing so, longshore sediment transport rate is estimated based on the assumption that longshore transport rate is determined by the available wave energy influx toward the beach. Velocity moments required for the application of Bailard's model (1981) is deduced from numerical simulation of the nonlinear shoaling process over the Mang-Bang beach of the 71 wave conditions carefully chosen from the wave records. As a wave driver, we used the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. by Frelich and Guza (1984). Numerical results show that contrary to the Bailard's study (1981), Irribaren NO. has non negligible influence on the velocity moments. We also proceeds to numerically simulate the yearly sediment budget of Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that for ${\beta}=41.6^{\circ}$, the mean orientation of Mang-Bang beach, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing over the south-eastwardly moving sediment, the yearly amount of which is simulated to reach its maxima at $125,000m^3/m$. And the null pint where north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is balanced by the south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is located at ${\beta}=47^{\circ}$. For the case of cross shore sediment, the sediment is gradually moving toward the shore from the April to mid October, whereas these trends are reversed by sporadically occurring energetic wind waves at the end of October and March. We also complete the littoral drift rose of the Mang-Bang beach, which shows that even though the shore line is temporarily retreated, and as a result, the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is larger than the orientation of null pont, south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. In a case that the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is smaller than the orientation of null pont, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. And these trend imply that the Mang-Bang beach is stable one, which has the self restoring capability once exposed to erosion.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.101-114
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• 2019

In this study, we carry out the numerical simulation to trace the yearly shoreline change of Mang-Bang beach, which is suffering from erosion problem. We obtain the basic equation (One Line Model for shoreline) for the numerical simulation by assuming that the amount of shoreline retreat or advance is balanced by the net influx of longshore and cross-shore sediment into the unit discretized shoreline segment. In doing so, the energy flux model for the longshore sediment transport rate is also evoked. For the case of cross sediment transport, the modified Bailard's model (1981) by Cho and Kim (2019) is utilized. At each time step of the numerical simulation, we adjust a closure depth according to pertinent wave conditions based on the Hallermeier's analytical model (1978) having its roots on the Shield's parameter. Numerical results show that from 2017.4.26 to 2017.10.15 during which swells are prevailing, a shoreline advances due to the sustained supply of cross-shore sediment. It is also shown that a shoreline temporarily retreats due to the erosion by the yearly highest waves sequentially occurring from mid-October to the end of October, and is followed by gradual recovery of shoreline as high waves subdue and swells prevail. It is worth mentioning that great yearly circulation of shoreline completes when a shoreline retreats due to the erosion by the higher waves occurring from mid-March to the end of March. The great yearly circulation of shoreline mentioned above can also be found in the measured locations of shoreline on 2017.4.5, 2017.9.7, 2017.11.7, 2018.3.14. However, numerically simulated amount of shoreline retreat or advance is more significant than the physically measured one, and it should be noted that these discrepancies become more substantial for the case of RUN II where a closure depth is sustained to be as in the most morphology models like the Genesis (Hanson and Kraus, 1989).

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.434-449
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• 2019

In this study, we develop a new cross-shore sediment module which takes the effect of infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary layer streaming on the sediment transport into account besides the well-known asymmetry and under-tow. In doing so, the effect of individual random waves occurring during the unit observation period of 1 hr on sediment transport is also fully taken into account. To demonstrate how the individual random waves would affect the sediment transport, we numerically simulate the non-linear shoaling process of random wavers over the beach of uniform slope. Numerical results show that with the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. the application of which is lately extended to surf zone, we could simulate the saw-tooth profile observed without exception over the surf zone, infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary-layer streaming accurately enough. It is also shown that when yearly highest random waves are modeled by the equivalent nonlinear uniform waves, the maximum cross-shore transport rate well exceeds the one where the randomness is fully taken into account as much as three times. Besides, in order to optimize the free parameter K involved in the long-shore sediment module, we carry out the numerical simulation to trace the yearly shoreline change of Mang-Bang beach from 2017.4.26 to 2018.4.20 as well, and proceeds to optimize the K by comparing the traced shoreline change with the measured one. Numerical results show that the optimized K for Mang-Bang beach would be 0.17. With K = 0.17, via yearly grand circulation process comprising severe erosion by consecutively occurring yearly highest waves at the end of October, and gradual recovery over the winter and spring by swell, the advance of shore-line at the northern and southern ends of Mang-Bang beach by 18 m, and the retreat of shore-line by 2.4 m at the middle of Mang-Bang beach can be successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.265-277
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• 2019

Using the measured data of waves and shore-line, we reviewed the grand circulation process and seasonal variation of beach cusp at the Mang-Bang beach from the perspective of trapped mode Edge waves known as the driving mechanism of beach cusp. In order to track the temporal and spatial variation trends of beach cusp, we quantify the beach cusp in terms of its wave length and amplitude detected by threshold crossing method. In doing so, we also utilize the spectral analysis method and its associated spectral mean sand wave number. From repeated period of convergence and ensuing splitting of sand waves detected from the yearly time series of spectral mean sand wave number of beach cusp, it is shown that the grand circulation process of beach cusp at Mang-Bang beach are occurring twice from 2017. 4. 26 to 2018. 4. 20. For the case of beach area, it increased by $14,142m^2$ during this period, and the shore-line advanced by 18 m at the northen and southern parts of the Mang-Bang beach whereas the shore-line advanced by 2.4 m at the central parts of Mang-Bang beach. It is also worthy of note that the beach area rapidly increased by $30,345m^2$ from 2017.11.26. to 2017.12.22. which can be attributed to the nature of coming waves. During this period, mild swells of long period were prevailing, and their angle of attack were next to zero. These characteristics of waves imply that the main transport mode of sediment would be the cross-shore. Considering the facts that self-healing capacity of natural beaches is realized via the cross-shore sediment once temporarily eroded. it can be easily deduced that the sediment carried by the boundary layer streaming toward the shore under mild swells which normally incident toward the Mang-Bang beach makes the beach area rapidly increase from 2017.11.26. to 2017.12.22.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2016.05a
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• pp.32-32
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• 2016

정부는 1999년 제정된 연안관리법에 따라 2000년부터 시행 중인 '연안정비계획' 등을 통하여 연안 침식 대응사업을 지원하고 있다. 그러나 연안의 개발은 지속적으로 일어나고 있으며 그 중 동해항 3단계 북방파제 축조공사가 내년 3월 중으로 착공할 것으로 예상된다. 동해항 3단계 개발사업은 동해항을 환동해권 물류 중심 거점 항만으로 육성하기 위해, 오는 2020년까지 대규모 항만개발과 방파제 등이 축조될 예정이다. 이에 따라 본 연구에서는 동해항 3단계 개발사업의 추진에 따른 인근해변의 해안침식 저감대책 방안으로 해안선 및 수심 변화를 예측하고자 한다. 동해항 인근의 추암 해수욕장부터 삼척 해수욕장까지 대상지역 N-line 모델 적용 및 Case분석을 실시한다. 해안선 변화는 Polar coordinate에서 개발된 One-line 모델에 회절 효과를 반영하고 해빈 경사와 쇄파고에 따라 횡단 방향으로 발생하는 표사로 인한 추가적인 해안선 변화 효과를 반영하여 입사파고 변동에 따른 단기적인 해안선 변화의 변동 폭을 제공한다. 연평균 입사 파고에 따라 형성되는 연안방향 표사로부터 해안선이 변동하며 이 해안선을 기준으로 연평균 파고에 따른 전진 폭과 최고 파고에 따른 침식 폭을 제시한다. 동해항 개발 전 변화 예측 모델링과 동해항 개발 후 변화 예측 모델링을 통해 개발에 따른 장래 해안선의 변화 예측 모델링 결과 분석 및 검토를 실시, 동해항 인근 지역에 적합한 해안선 유지관리 방법 결정 및 제안을 하는데 도움을 줄 것이라 기대된다.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.116-122
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• 2018

Dean's equilibrium beach profile formula was used to investigate the correlation between the static shoreline position and the incident wave energy. The effect of the longshore sediment transport was neglected, and the results showed the reasonable agreement compared with the field observations of Yates et al.(2009), which were conducted for almost 5 years on southern California beaches, USA. The shoreline response varies with the scale factor of Dean's equilibrium beach profile. This implies that the shoreline response could be simply estimated using the sampled grain size without laborious long-term field work. Therefore, the present study results are expected to be practically used for the layout design of submerged or exposed detached breakwaters although the further work is required for performance verification. In addition, after laborous mathematical reviews, the linear relation between incident energy and shoreline response, which was obtained from Yates's field study, yielded a clear mathematical equation showing how the beach slope is related to the grain size.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.69-84
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• 2020

Natural shoreline repeats its re-treatment and advance in response to the endlessly varying sea-conditions, and once severely eroded under stormy weather conditions, natural beaches are gradually recovered via a boundary layer streaming when swells are prevailing after storms cease. Our understanding of the boundary layer streaming over surf-zone often falls short despite its great engineering value, and here it should be noted that the most sediments available along the shore are supplied over the surf-zone. In this rationale, numerical simulation was implemented to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of boundary layer streaming over the surf zone in this study. In doing so, comprehensive numerical models made of Spatially filtered Navier-Stokes Eq., LES (Large Eddy Simulation), Dynamic Smagorinsky turbulence closure were used, and the effects of turbulence closure such as Dynamic Smagorinsky in LES and k-ε on the numerically simulated flow field were also investigated. Numerical results show that due to the intrinsic limits of k-ε turbulence model, numerically simulated flow velocity near the bottom based on k-ε model and wall function are over-predicted than the one using Dynamic Smagorinsky in LES. It is also shown that flow velocities near the bottom are faster than the one above the bottom which are relatively free from the presence of the bottom, complying the typical boundary layer streaming by Longuet-Higgins (1957), the spatial scope where boundary layer streaming are occurring is extended well into the surf zone as incoming waves are getting longer. These tendencies are plausible considering that it is the bottom friction that triggers a boundary layer streaming, and longer waves start to feel the bottom much faster than shorter waves.

• 한국해양학회지
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.74-85
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• 1972

This paper studied the grain size distribution of bottom sediments of Yeongil Bay which is located at the southeastern part of the Korean Peninsula. Sixty four samples collected with snapper and dredger are analyzed by roe Tap Sieve Shaker and Pipette Method. The moment parameters are calculated with the method of Friedman(1961). Most samples are composed of sand size sediments and a few samples are composed of silt and clay. The Yeongil Bay can be divided into gravel-granule zone, sand zone, and silt-clay zone. The sediments near Yeonam- Dong and Hyongsan river are moderately sorted and others are very poorly sorted according to scheme of Friedman91962). In general, sorting values are ranged from 1.0 to 3.5. The samples near Janggigap and Masin-Dong show negative and others show positive skewness values. Skewness values are ranged from -1 to 2. All samples show the leptokurtic distribution except for the samples near Masin- dong and at the deepest place near Janggigap. Kurtosis values are ranged from -1.5 to 21.9. The samples of gravel-granule zone contain more than 50% and those of silt-clay zone contain less than 50% of CaCO$\_$3/. Four different colors, black, yellow, brown and gray, are shown in the sediments of Yeongil Bay.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.142-149
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• 2019

In this study, the past erosion history and current status in the CHUNG-UI beach of Eulwang-dong, Jung-gu, Incheon-Si, South Korea were investigated and analyzed the wave with wave-induced current to investigate the causes of coastal erosion. As a result, the significant wave height ($H_{1/3}$) was in the range of 0.07~1.57 m and the mean value was 0.21 m. The maximum wave height ($H_{max}$) was in the range of 0.02-4.76m and the mean value was 0.27m. The vertical wave height and cycles were estimated through numerical model experiments of wave transformation. The 50-year frequency design wave height ranged from 0.82m to 3.75m. As a result of the experiment of wave-induced current, wave-induced current in the CHUNG-UI beach was decreased after the installation of the Detached breakwater and the Jetty. On the other hand, when the crest elevation was increased up to 5 m, there was no significant change, but when the crest elevation was increased to 8m, strong wave-induced current occurred around the submerged breakwaters due to lowered depth of water. In addition, the main erosion of the CHUNG-UI beach is due to the intensive invasion of the wave characteristics coming from the outer sea into the white sandy beach. The deformation of the wave centered on the front of the sandy beach caused additional longshore currents flowing parallel to the sandy beach and rip currents in the transverse direction, thus confirming that the longshore sediment was moved out of the front and out of the sea. The results of this study can be used as preliminary data for the recovery of the sand and the selection of efficient erosion prevention facilities.