• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.385-392
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• 2022

In this study, keratin peptides were produced through high-temperature anaerobic fermentation of keratin, a protein contained in deer antler, with Fervidobacterium islandicum AW-1, and factors related to human hair, confirming the possibility of keratin peptides as cosmetic ingredients. As a result of the cytotoxicity and proliferation of deer antler fermented keratin peptide according to the concentration in the dermal papilla cell line, cytotoxicity was not observed and the cell proliferation effect was shown. For human dermal papilla cells, statistically significant increasing in growth factors according to the deer antler fermented keratin peptide was determined possiblity of effects on hair growth. Cosmetic products containing deer antler fermented keratin peptides were manufactured and skin safety and anti hair loss efficacy clinical tests were conducted. As a result, after 12 weeks of use, the total number of hairs statistically significant increased compared to before using the product and the difference in total number of hairs compared to the control group was found. In conclusion, we suggest that the possibility of fermented deer antler keratin peptide as a cosmeceutical ingredient as well as a health functional food material was confirmed.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.43-50
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• 2012

The safety of cosmetics or cosmetic ingredients on human skin is generally evaluated by visual assessment but some early subtle skin changes may not be noticed by the naked eyes. Thus, the present study was conducted to detect skin reactions induced by mildly irritating cosmetic ingredients by using a laser Doppler perfusion imager (LDPI) method that measures blood flow, a $Vapometer^{(R)}$ that measure strans epidermal water loss (TEWL), and a spectrophotometer that measures the skin color as the erythema values ($a^*$). Visual assessment showed that all tested oils and humectants except propylene glycol belong to the low skin irritation ranges (grades 0+ to 2.9+) while all tested surfactants and propylene glycol belong to the moderate-to strong-skin irritation ranges (grades 3+ to 5+). Among three instrumental methods, TEWL assessment appeared to be more sensitive than spectrophotometric or LDPI method and suitable for the detection of subtle skin response invisible to the naked eye (grades 0+ to 2.9+). Skin reactions of grade 3+ to 5+ could be detected by all three instrumental methods. In conclusion, the current study suggested that the sub-clinical skin reactions due to mild irritants contained in cosmetics can be best assessed by TEWL measurements.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.309-315
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• 2009

In our search for the natural cosmetic ingredients, we found that Euryale ferox seed extract exhibited the strong antioxidative activity. Five active compounds were isolated from the ethyl acetate extract through various chromatographic methods and their structures were determined by NMR and MS spectral analysis. These compounds were identified as fucosterol (1), 3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzyl)-4-[(7'R),5'-dihydroxy-3'-methoxybenzyl]tetrahydrofuran (2), resorcinol (3), pyrogallol (4) and 4-O-methylgallic acid (5).We evaluated the antioxidative, antielastase activities and melanogenesis inhibitory effects of these compounds. The $SC_{50}$ values of compounds 2 ~ 5 for free radical scavenging activity were $17.0\;{\sim}\;100.2\;{\mu}M$ and especially compounds 4 and 5 were 6-fold more effective than ferulic acid as a positive control. And compounds 2 ~ 4 inhibited human neutrophil elastase with $IC_{50}$ values of $18.8\;{\sim}\;78.2\;{\mu}M$ and compound 3 also inhibited melanin synthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells with an $IC_{50}$ value of $492.8\;{\mu}M$. These results suggest that Euryale ferox extract having a lot of various active ingredients may be useful as a natural multi-functioning agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 2018

In this study, 1,2-hexanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, and glyceryl caprylate known as skin conditioning agents with antimicrobial activity in cosmetics were investigated for their antimicrobial activity against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria when combining them with various ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Seven kinds of substances expected to improve the antibacterial activity in formulations were selected to blend with these three compounds.; 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol, niacinamide, EDTA-2Na, and ethanol. The checkerboard assay was conducted to confirm the antibacterial synergy of these seven substances and the three skin conditioning agents. Consequently, ethanol and EDTA-2Na were detected as the significant materials with synergistic effect as well as ethanol showed antibacterial synergy with all the three compounds. When seven of selected materials were mixed with glyceryl caprylate, there were synergistic or additive activity against S. aureus, gram-positive bacteria and it was suggested that the combination with 1,2-hexanediol and glyceryl caprylate was useful to control both gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria when there were four kinds of polyols. This study is meaningful in that it confirmed the antibacterial synergy of the skin conditioning agents with antimicrobial activity and the main raw materials frequently used in cosmetics, thereby contributing to prediction of the antibacterial activity of the skin conditioning agents in cosmetic formulations.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.2 s.51
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• pp.207-212
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• 2005

Pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) which is very rich in Polyphenols and tannins was recently reported its anti-oxidant activities and phytoestrogenic activities in vivo test and many clinical studies, but the effects of them on the skin have not been reported. The experiments were tarried out in vitro to determine anti-oxidant activities of pomegranate extracts on DPPH radical scavenging assay, NBT/Xanthine Oxidase-superoxide scavenging assay, silica-induced intracellular $H_2O_2$, hydroperoxide and superoxide generation assay in RAW 264.7 cells. It showed that the methanolic extract of dried pomegranate peels have the most significant anti-oxidant activities on free radical scavenging assay and inhibitory activities on silica-induced intracellular free radical generation in RAW 264.7 cells. The concentrated juice of pomegranate showed only DPPH radical scavenging activities and inhibited hyaluronidase activity. Moreover, pomegranate seed oil inhibited specially silica-induced intracellular hydroperoxide generation in RAW 264.7 cells. These results suggest that the methanolic extract of dried pomegranate peels and pomegranate seed oil have more anti-oxidant activity than concentrated juice of pomegranate. Thus the extracts of pomegranate peels and seed oil could be developed cosmetic ingredients for anti-aging.

• Journal of the Mineralogical Society of Korea
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.443-450
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• 2008

나노튜브 형상의 할로이사이트는 화장품 약물 등 활성물질의 방출시간을 연장하는데 응용할 수 있는 천연 나노광물이다. 할로이사이트를 이용한 활성물질 적재 방출 제어기술을 최초로 등록한 1997년 미국 특허를 필두로 2007년에는 비타민과 글리세린 등의 기능효과제를 광범위하게 포함하는 기능성화장품 제조기술에 대한 특허가 출원되었다. 학술 논문으로서는 화장품 보다 서방형 약물전달 기술에 관한 연구가 주로 발표되고 있다. 최근 화장품용 분체에 단순한 기재로서의 역할뿐만 아니라 기능성을 추가로 부여하고 있다. 특히, 할로이사이트는 기능성 화장성분의 전달 속도를 제어할 수 있으며 다른 분체보다 밀도가 낮아 팩 크림 로션류의 기재로 적합하다. 따라서 나노튜브형 할로이사이트를 활용한 나노캐리어 기술은 최근 화장품 유형별 시장점유율에서 2위로 부상한 기능성화장품 분야의 핵심기술로 성장할 것으로 기대된다.

• 한국생물공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.71-71
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• 2003

• Journal of the Economic Geographical Society of Korea
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.550-565
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• 2016

The size of Korean and global cosmetic industry market are consistently growing and the domestic cosmetic industry's rate of total production increase is higher than GDP in Korea. In addition, the Korean Wave has strengthened not only this phenomenon but also the increase of exports. For these reasons, the purpose of this paper is to analyze Korean cosmetic industry regarded as a new growth engine. For this study, Porter's Value Chain theory, Mudambi's Smile of Value Creation, Cosmetic GMP by ISO, and the production process on cosmetic industry are used as tools. As a result, Korean cosmetic industry comprises five nodes value chains: R&D, Raw Material Manufacture, Container Manufacture, Cosmetic Manufacture, and Marketing. And then, based on this result, the spatial analysis is conducted to identify spatial distribution characteristics of each node.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.97-117
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• 1997

L-Ascorbic acid 및 그 유도체는 항산화 작용과 미백작용 및 섬유아세포의 생장 촉진과 콜라젠 생합성의 증가시키는 효과가 있으므로 화장품에서 오래 전부터 사용되어 왔다. 본 연구에서는 생체에 대한 안전성과 안정성이 우수한 L-Ascorbic acid 유도체를 개발하기 위하여 인지질과 유사하게 L-Ascorbic acid 에 3-Aminopropane phosphoric acid를 결합하여 L-Ascorbic acid-3-aminopropane phosphoric acid diester를 합성하였다. ASA-APPA 는 2-Chlorotetrahydro-2H-1, 3, 2-oxazaphosphorine P-oxide 와 5, 6-isopropylidene L-Ascorbic acid 를 반응 시킨 후 산 사수분해 반응을 통하여 얻을 수 있었다. ASA-APPA는 수용액에서 안정성이 우수하였으며, 독성실험에서 무독성 물질이며, 인체 첩포 실험에서도 무자극 물질임을 확인하였다. 그리고, ASA-APPA 는 L-Ascorbic acid 와 3-APPA 의 혼합물과 거의 유사한 섬유아세포의 증식효과를 나타내었으며, melanoma 에 대한 멜라닌 생성 억제 실험에서 L-Ascorbic acid phosphate magnesium salt 와 유사한 효과를 보였다. 따라서 ASA-APPA 는 멜라닌 생성 억제 효과와 섬유아세포의 증식 효과를 갖는 새로운 화장품 원료로서 사용이 가능할 것으로 생각된다.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.23-46
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• 1999

LC/MS는 HPLC의 분리능과 질량분석기의 화합물의 확인 능력을 결합시킨 기기이다. 여기서 사용되는 이온화 방법은 GCJMS에서 사용되어지는 전자이온화법(electron ionization, EI)이나, 화학이온화법(chemical ionization, CI)은 부적당하기 때문에 최근 개발되어진 연성 이온화법의 대표적인 고속원자폭격식(Fast atom bombardment, FAB)이나 전기분무이온화식 (electrospray ionization, ESI) 등이 사용되고 있다. 이중 전기분무이온화법은 고속원자폭격법에서 사용되는 매트릭스를 사용하지 않기 때문에 매트릭스 이온의 부재로 인한 낮은 바탕 신호, 오래 지속되면서 안정된 초기 이온 전류, 샘플링의 용이성, HPLC와의 더 좋은 호환성 등의 장점을 제공한다. 이러한 전기분무이온화 방법은 극성이 매우 크거나 휘발성이 낮은 물질로 보통의 EI나 CI 이온화 방법으로 분석이 어려운 물질들을 분석할 수 있다. 또한 열에 불안정하거나 분자의 분자량이 다른 단백질 등의 분석도 가능하다. 이러한 LC/ESI/MS 방법을 이용하여 열에 불안정하고 극성이면서 분자량이 커서 GC/MS 펄의 분석이 어려운 기능성 화장품 원료로 주목받고 있고 생체에 존재하는 지질 성분으로 알려진 레시틴과 세라마이드의 분석이 가능함을 소개하고 분리와 동시에 그 분자량과 구조에 대한 정보를 빠르게 얻을 수 있음을 소개하였다.