• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.91-106
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• 2023

This study examines how the concept of gender fluidity-viewing gender identity as a fluid and wide spectrum-is represented in modern knit fashion collections. The period spring/summer 2017-fall/winter 2021, when gender-related fashion keywords started attracting attention, was limited to the last five years, and the results of a case analysis focused on a total of 357 knit fashion photos are as follows. First, the androgynous compromise through the mixing of heterogeneous elements appears as a mix-and-match style due to the patchwork of heterogeneous materials and forms that borrow or share masculinity and femininity. Second, it was confirmed that the dismantling exaggeration caused by the destruction of the size and form of clothes was an avant-garde image that exaggerated the size or length of clothes or destroyed ideas and forms. Third, the exposed sensuality caused by the deformation of the fluid knitting technique was shown in the form of proudly expressing sexuality by exposing the body either using the cut-out technique or through the loose texture of the knit. Knit fashion can highlight decorative effects using handcrafted techniques and express a detailed or coarse sense of organization depending on the density. In addition, since it is possible to create a complex image by juxtaposing and mixing various knit structures, it was confirmed that it is a suitable material for expressing gender fluidity flowing between men and women in fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.5 s.95
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• pp.14-27
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• 2005

These new Phenomenon influences with the new terminology 'fusion' on the way of our life in all areas of our society including the clothes and foods. Along with post-structuralism, which aims at diversification and senses deconstructionalism is a characteristic of this time post-structuralism is based upon the deconstructionalism. Especially the arts in the modern society which is called an information-oriented society lack the totality of a text and become fragmentary, and therefore it follows that traditional values are destroyed and at last a new code such as fusion which is incomprehensible if we would be in mono-linear perspective. Dislikes toward excessively formative and orthodox elements of modern pictures and constructs ; features of kitschs and subcultures against materialism are revealed in diverse objects and materialism. In such a situation of mingling of diversifications with no time to evaluate an object, another diverse forms come into the world and there is no room for evaluating. Therefore, this study will make a light on what are tendencies in the fashion design from the end of 20C to the beginning of 21C, and foreground the concept of fusion in modern fashion which is relevant with digitals and its generative background.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.46
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• pp.49-66
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• 1999

The bisexuality deconstructivity and diversity that are great characteristics on the comtemporary fashion are showed in the fashion collections. The purpose of this paper is to investigate and analyze the influence of these characteristics made by the post modern-feminism fashion through the cultural pattern analysis. The post modern-feminism was analyzed by dividing the cultural pattern into 1) the deconstructivity of androcentrism -This characteristic was presented in the costume design that breaks the basic from of the line color and quality of the material showing in men's clothes. 2) By rejecting main current fashion -Subculture style appeared in main current fashion the boundary of main and anti-main current fashion was vagued and the phenomena that the identity of subgroup was weakened were showed. 3) In the coexistence of double-sided value -This characteristic was presented in the cross-dressing fashion that cut away women's slender part and men's rough part. 4) In the open-minded thought of gender -This tendency was reached an extreme from excessive exposure to design which gives the sexual stimulus. This paper is expected to be helpful to understand the contemporary fashion by treating the cultural category associated with post-modern feminism in relation to contemporary fashion and to establish the direction of 21 century fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.66-77
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• 2010

This study aimed at examining the pattern and detailed formation of corset look which has established itself as a sort of fashion look as people began to wear underwear as part of outer garment. The study tried to present basic materials helpful for developing and creating the design and pattern of corset look. First, the collected corset look of each brand was copied and then developed. According to the result, corset look's representative silhouette turned out to be hourglass silhouette that tightened up the waist with an emphasis on expressing the beauty of the body. However, unlike corsets of the past, corsets today are being created with focus on the design rather than using lots of incision lines. Second, The bust girth of corset look items turned out to have little function to compress and deform the body like the corset of the past that was far smaller than the body. In addition, the corset style that used the lines of corset alone as motive turned out to have the larger waist girth. Third, the dismantling of collected corset look showed that the materials and formation features of corset look have become simple and that the simplification of corset look has made the items of corset look everyday clothes which can be worn practically and universally.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.72-86
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• 2002

Recently the fashion design has been expressed mixing trend of antipodal concept. There are shown disorganization of existing standard with eclectism, pursued more sensational fashion by the sense of unease. And there are spreaded body exposure in producing on a commercial scale for sex, are shown the phenomenon by wearing innovation inner-wear in private area are exposed out. The purpose of this study are to consider preponderantly the fashion design using corset, shown up as the motive of costume design from 1990's to 2002's, define the character of molding. and extend the width of understanding of modern fashion. The results of the study are as follows: 1. The trend of deconstructionism as one line of fashion world in the 1990's make into outer garment of inner-wear, corset has been using the main item of infra costume. The past corset was existed innerwear, but it is revived various forms by transforming outer garment of body expression consciously. 2. Corset look is shown double faced factory of the beauty of tradition and decadence, vulgarity and nobility, concealment and exposure, and are expressed boldly the free consciousness outer about woman's sex with the improvement of woman's social position. 3. The molding character of Corset look divided Eroticism, Fetishism, Deconstructionism. Futurism. The trend of Corset look design is the emphasized sexual part of lace-up and cutting line of corset, and various details of see-through, kitsch, glitter look. Therefore, the trend of Corset look will be applied the modern fashion and used as motif of new design, affected the inspiration of more developed design with grafting of up-to-date fabrics and processing technique.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.361-370
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• 2005

This study was intended to investigate intertextuality expressed in fashion; intertextuality within fashion as sex, T.P.O., texture, and coordination and intertextuality between fashion and other genre like animation, music, film and technology. Intertextuality obtained by mixing the masculine and feminine text, coordinating various element without regarding T.P.O., texture has contributed to expending aesthetic realm and redefining the aesthetic value of traditional fashion design. The influence of animation, music, film on fashion and the interaction between these genre and fashion integrated high-class fashion and street-fashion, created the multicultural hybrid. Moreover according to the change of lifestyle the fashionable technical clothing was needed and developed. The intertextual tendency in the 21st-century fashion has given the new possibility of fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.89-100
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• 1997

The formal constructions of deconstructive architecture in the contemporary fashion expressed as intertexruality, difference and trace and the working of DIS and DE, and intertextuality in deconstructive has manifested itself as the intertextuality of material, hybridization of items, the blending of modes and the bi-sexuality of sexes. And the difference and trace found in fashion are fantastic and playful and come to exist as historicity. DIS and DE in fashion shows the retrogression of gravity through non-structural silhouette. Their disentring expression emerged as construction through mixture and repetition as well as overlapping of planes or spaces. And their disjuctive representation appeared in the form of mutual juxtaposition and substitution with the double-side of formal construction in fuctional terms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.902-910
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• 2008

A view of the Orientalism that sees the Orient as the inferior Other, characterized by the heterogenic, eccentric, backward, and passive features, has been internalized in the unconsciousness of Westerners. 'Orientalism' which is the cultural device and the system of discourse to put Asia in the fixed frame of dominance was the West European centered term, designating Southwest Asia including South Europe and North Africa as Orient, and contained the idea that non-Western society could progress only with the acceptance of Western civilization. Accordingly, it is need to use this term deliberately. In addition, even though the Asian Look of the West, borrowing the images and costume styles of Asia has lost the original mentality of Asia, it was not initiated from the perception that sees Asia as the inferior Other. Since the Asian Ethnic Look is the Western costume, borrowing the image of Orient and style by being fascinated by Oriental Aesthetics, the attributes of it are different from those of Orientalism. Therefore, it is not appropriate to designate the Asian Ethnic Look as 'Orientalism Fashion' or 'Oriental Look' except for some eccentric manipulation of Asia costume and image. Instead, it is desirable to exchange the term 'Asian Look', 'Asian Fashion', and 'Asian Ethnic Look' upon occasions or the name of individual nation or region can be referred to as preferred alternatives. Today, Asia including Korea is taking the initiative in the World Fashion as one of central axes of World Fashion Industry, and cannot be interpreted from the perspective of West Centrism. Now, it's time to dissolve the dichotomous prejudice of the West centrism on Asia's own strength.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.7 s.98
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• pp.114-130
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• 2005

In postmodernism, the sublime that reaches ecstasy overcoming terror or pain is described as the most expressive phenomenon. The purpose of this study is to understand the sublime expressed in contemporary fashion. for this purpose, 1 investigated the theories of the sublime, categorized the definition and modes, then applied those categories for contemporary fashion. Documentary studies were conducted through aesthetic, design and fashion books and the demonstrative studies were processed by analyzing photos from fashion magazines. In the history of aesthetics, the sublime is explained as the ambivalent feeling mixed with pain and pleasure, terror and delight or negation and affirmation. In this study, the sublime could be defined as the aesthetic pleasure through the transcendence of the pain and terror and classified into 3 categories, the tragic, the initiative, and the deconstructive. The tragic sublime that includes the terrific, the disgusting and the religious character is expressed through the image of death or the physical torture, the satanic image or disgusting object and the ascetic image and religious sign or icons. The limitless sublime that includes the giant and the dynamic character is accomplished by consist of the elongation or the enlargement and the powerful authority. The deconsturctive sublime that includes the negative, the indeterminate and the complex character is associated with the deconstruction in style, the reversal of image and the destruction of the space of the body. Analysis on the sublime expressed in contemporary fashion may provide an excellent way for understanding human aesthetic consciousness in dress.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.764-776
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to serve as a reference for creative fashion design by analyzing the types and aesthetic characteristics of trompe l'oeil in contemporary men's fashion. This research is an empirical study that utilizes both qualitative and quantitative methods to analyze fashion design cases and research articles such as academic papers and professional books. The study covers four major men's collections: Paris, Milan, New York, and London. The period being analyzed is from 2005 Spring/Summer, which is widely regarded as a turning point at which men's collections began rapidly, to 2019 Spring/Summer. The study analyzes 471 photos from domestic and international websites, with the following results. Types of trompe l'oeil in contemporary male fashion are classified into four types: (1) the deconstruction of clothing forms or creation methods, (2) optical illusions that create the effect of multiple layers of clothing on a single article of clothing and the reproduction of apparel details and clothing using 2D printing or embroideries, (3) realistic patterns on garments to create a camouflage effect, and (4) articles of clothing containing body images such as the chest, trunk, or internal human anatomy. These aesthetic characteristics in men's fashion design using types of trompe l'oeil are playful, deconstructive, and decorative features based on hyper-reality. This study aims to acknowledge trompe l'oeil as being widely used in contemporary men's fashion as a type of formative art, playing a crucial role in creative fashion design.