• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.36-41
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• 2013

In this paper time series wave data are simulated using wave spectrum with random phases of the wave signal. The simulated wave signals are used to study the effect of the sampling rate on the ocean wave characteristics. Effect of sampling rate on wave data which include extreme wave such as freak waves are examined and various wave characteristics including abnormality index (AI), kurtosis of wave profile and maximum wave height are examined. Various wave heights are decreased as the sampling rate decreases. The zero-th moment of the wave spectrum does not affect much on the sampling rate but the second moment are greately affected on the sampling rate. The error due to the sampling rate is decreases as the wave period increases. The error in significant wave height based on the wave spectrum $H_s$ is smaller than that on the time domain method $H_{1/3}$. AI index and kurtosis of wave profile do not deviate much from the exact date as long as the sampling rate is greater than 1 Hz. Ocean wave measurement with the sampling frequency higher than 1 Hz will result the error less than 5% in estimating the height of extreme waves.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1993.07a
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• pp.137-141
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• 1993

최근 천해역에서의 파랑의 변화양상에대한 많은 연구가 수행되어 괄목할만한 진전을 보였으나 그 연구범위가 단일한 형태의 파랑을 대상으로한 확정론적인 접근방법에 치우쳐 있었다. 그러나 해수면의 상당 부분은 언제나 불규칙한 파랑에 의해 점유되어 있다. 이러한 불규칙성은 바람의 mechanical energy가 해수면으로 전이되는 과정에 기인하는 데 ［Phillips, 1980］ 따라서 파랑장의 해석에는 통계적인 방법이 이용되곤한다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.72-82
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• 1992

To accurately estimate nearshore current in shallow water regions. it is necessary to investigate the irregular wave transformation characteristics and radiation stress produced by random sea waves. This research is to investigate the application or the individual wave Analysis Method. the Component Wave Analysis Method and Representative Wave Analysis Method in the shallow water region. These methods were estimated by wave shallowing transformation when the waves propagate from deep water to shallow water region b)r generating regular waves, two component waves and irregular waves (Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu type). That is, the Indivisual Wave Analysis Method is to investigate from the viewpoint of shallow water transformation of wave statistical characteristics and their zero-down-crossing waves (wave height period and wave celerity). And the component Wave Analysis Method is to investigate from the view point of shallow water transformation of basic frequency component wave and their interference frequency component wave. In addition, this research is to compare the measured mean water level elevation with the calculated one from radiation stress of irreguar waves that is assumed in the three methods above.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.262-273
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• 2003

We have analyzed the characteristics of the monthly mean sea surface winds and wind waves near the Korean marginal seas in the 2002 year on the basis of prediction results of the sea surface winds from MM5/KMA model, which is being used for the operation system at the Korea Meteorological Administration and the third generation wave model, WAVEWATCH-III. which takes the sea surface winds derived from MM5/KMA model as the initial data. Statistical comparisons have been applied with both the marine meteorological observation buoy and the TOPEX/POSEIDON satellite wave heights data to verify the model results. The correlation coefficients between the models and observation data reach up to about 60-80％, supporting that these models satisfactorily simulate the sea surface winds and wave heights even at the coastal regions except for Chilbal-Do located very close to the land. Based on these verification results, the distributions of monthly mean sea surface winds, significant wave heights, wave lengths and wave periods around the Korean marginal seas during 2002 year have been represented.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.131-139
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• 2014

Infra-gravity waves (IGWs) with a period of 1~3 minutes are a factor that directly influences the motion analysis of moored ships inside a harbor and longshore sediment transport analysis. If significant levels of IGWs from far seas are transferred to a harbor and amplified, they may cause downtime of large ships and induce economic loss. In this study, transfer characteristics of the IGWs intruding from outside to inside Pohang New Harbor were analyzed using statistical analysis and transfer function of wave data measured at both outside and inside the harbor for around 5 years. Transfer characteristic analysis was limited to events where IGWs had wave heights above 0.1 m. The wave height distribution of inside the harbor was similar to that of outside the harbor, while the wave period variance of the former was larger than that of the latter. The parameters of the transfer function was optimally estimated according to each event. The estimated average RMS error of the wave height inside the harbor was around 0.013 m. The estimated parameters had a strong correlation with the linear combination information of IGW wave height, period, and direction (R = 0.95). The transfer function suggested in this study can quickly and easily estimate information on IGWs inside the harbor using IGW information predicted beforehand, and is expected to reduce damage due to unexpected restrictions on harbor usage.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.342-354
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• 2008

Some statistical characteristics of deepwater waves along the Korean coast have been investigated using various sources of wave measurement and hindcasting data. For very large waves comparable to design waves, it is recommended to use the average value of the empirical formulas proposed by Shore Protection Manual in 1977 and by Goda in 2003 for the relation between significant wave height and period. The standard deviation of significant wave periods non-dimensionalized with respect to the mean value for a certain significant wave height varies between 0.04 and 0.21 with a typical value of 0.1 depending upon different regions and different ranges of significant wave heights. The mean and standard deviation of the principal deepwater wave direction are presented at the 106 coastal grid points along the Korean coast. For relatively large waves, the probability density function of the directional spreading parameter $s_{max}$ is expressed as a lognormal distribution. The most suitable frequency spectrum in the Korean coast is the TMA spectrum. The probability density function of the peak enhancement factor $\gamma$ is also expressed as a lognormal distribution, with its mean value of 2.94, which is close to the value in the North Sea.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2019.05a
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• pp.308-308
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• 2019

지구상 해양, 대기 및 대륙 상호간의 연속적인 물의 거동을 나타내는 물의 순환의 주요 과정 중 하나인 유량 자료는 경년부터 수십년간의 다양한 기상학적 변동성을 내포하며 해당 지역의 수문기상학적 특성을 반영한다. 이러한 기상학적 변동성 중에서 비교적 긴 시간 주기를 나타내는 저주파 진동은 전지구적 기후변화의 장기적 영향을 나타내며 해수면 상승, 홍수 또는 가뭄과 같은 극한 수문사상을 나타내는 매우 주요한 지표로 활용되고 있지만 관측된 수문 시계열의 짧은 자료길이로 인하여 통계적 분석의 신뢰성에 한계를 보여왔다. 따라서 과거 수문 시계열의 확장으로 인하여 부재의 영역으로 남아있던 자료 기간의 한계가 보완되면 보다 정확하고 신뢰도 있는 분석이 가능할 것이다. 나무나이테를 활용한 고기후 복원 등의 연구가 증가하고 있지만 공학 분야에서 이를 실제로 활용한 연구는 아직 미비하다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 과거 기후의 정보를 바탕으로 복원된 수문 시계열을 활용하여 수문 시계열에 내재된 장기 기후 변동성을 통계적으로 분석하기 위한 문헌들을 조사하고, 장기적인 시간 흐름에 내재된 잠재적인 경향 및 변동성을 통계적 분석을 파악하고자 한다. 이를 위해 주어진 수문 시계열에 내재된 저주파 신호을 추출하기 위한 경험적 모드분해법을 활용하여 수문 자료에 내재된 장기 변동성을 추출하였으며, 산업화 이전부터 연장된 수문 시계열의 공학적 활용성을 분석하고자 한다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.308-318
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• 2002

The requirements to the numerical model of wind-generated waves in shallow water are discussed in the framework of the Korteweg-de Vries equation. The weakness of nonlinearity and dispersion required for the Korteweg-de Vries equation applicability is considered for fully developed sea, non-stationary wind waves and swell, including some experimental data. We note for sufficient evaluation of the freak wave statistics it is necessary to consider more than about 10,000 waves in the wave record, and this leads to the limitation of the numerical domain and number of realizations. The numerical modelling of irregular water waves is made to demonstrate the possibility of effective evaluation of the statistical properties of freak waves with heights equal to 2-2.3 significant wave height.

• Economic and Environmental Geology
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• v.55 no.1
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• pp.45-51
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• 2022

Whether Dokdo can sustain human habitation or economic life of their own plays an important role to the legal status of the island in the international maritime law. This study reports the hydrological survey results regarding the water resource of the island occurred at Moolgol in Seodo. The amount of underground discharge at Moolgol was estimated at least 1.1 m³/d, conforming the results of previous studies. Based on the oxygen and hydrogen isotope ratios of water, the discharge appeared to originate from precipitation, and about 36% of the daily precipitation moves fast to the Moolgol through the joints developed in the volcanic bedrocks. Quality of the discharged water shows relatively higher concentrations in Cl and NO₃ to be used for drinking and domestic purposes, probably affected by the sea spray and waves from surrounding sea and the birds' excretion such as black-tailed gulls.