• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.125-131
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• 1997

In order to analyze the feasibility of the drain layer construction method, which is one of the beach protection methods, a hybrid model is constructed by combining the wave model and the seepage flow model. The used wave model is the analytic solution given by Shuto (1972). and the seepage flow model is used by Richards equation which governs the saturated-unsaturated flow in the porous media. It is concluded by the sensitivity analysis of the hybrid model that the most sensitive parameter in the flow field within the beach is the saturated hydraulic conductivity. The developed hybrid model will be efficiently used in the analysis of the parameter when the drain layers are constructed in the beach, if the field datas are obtained more.

• Journal of the Korean Association of Geographic Information Studies
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.54-63
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• 2009

Various methods have been employed for acquiring beach surface data, which are used to monitor shoreline changes due to beach erosion. This study explores the possibility of constructing and implementing a surface model of beach using data acquired with a terrestrial laser scanner and RTK-GPS. Digital images and three-dimensional data of beach areas acquired at 20 cm intervals using a laser scanner were used to create a digital surface model covered with digital image. Seven months later, the beach area was surveyed using an RTK-GPS, and another beach model was constructed using the data collected with an accuracy of 1.9 cm. The use of a terrestrial laser scanner is expected to ensure acquisition of good quality results and help deal with seasonal changes in beach areas. Because readings obtained with the RTK-GPS are dependent on the number of sampling points in beach model, difficulties are encountered when fixing the survey points. However, RTK-GPS could be used to implement a three-dimensional model by correcting the hidden parts in images obtained using a terrestrial laser scanner. Therefore, an RTK-GPS and a terrestrial laser scanner can be used in combination to obtain more precise data for the construction of beach model data.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.177-188
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• 1991

The littoral drift in the nearshore zone occurs mainly due to wave action and nearshore currents. Beach topotraphical evolution model presented in this study shows the possibility which can be applied to the prediction of beach deformation over short time interval, associated with the construction of coastal structures. The 3-dimensional beach evolution model, based on Watanabe's equation and Deguchi's flux model, is developed and consists of three submodels of wave transformation, rip-currents, and beach deformation. This model is applied to the several cases with different conditions and compared with the results of Watanabe's numerical model. In addition, the effects of parameters involved are discussed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.209-220
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• 2019

Even though the scale of hard structures for beach stabilization should carefully be determined such that these structures do not interrupt the great yearly circulation process of beach sediment in which the self-healing ability of natural beach takes places, massive hard structures such as the submerged breakwater of wide-width are frequently deployed as the beach stabilization measures. On this rationale, asymmetric ripple mat by Irie et al. (1994) can be the alternatives for beach stabilization due to its small scale to replace the preferred submerged breaker of wide-width. The effectiveness of asymmetric ripple mat is determined by how effectively the vortices enforced at the contraction part of flow area over the mat traps the sediment moving toward the offshore by the run-down. In order to verify this hypothesis, we carry out the numerical simulations based on the Navier-Stokes equation and the physically-based morphology model. Numerical results show that the asymmetric ripple mat effectively capture the sediment by forced vortex enforced at the apex of asymmetric ripple mat, and bring these trapped sediments back to the beach, which has been regarded to be the driving mechanism of beach stabilization effect of asymmetric ripple mat.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.320-333
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• 2019

In this study, a physics-based 3D morphology model for the estimation of an erosion rate of nourished beach is newly proposed. As a hydrodynamic module, IHFOAM toolbox having its roots on the OpenFoam is used. On the other hand, the morphology model comprised a transport equation for suspended sediment, and Exner type equation derived from the viewpoint of sediment budget with the bed load being taken to accounted. In doing so, the incipient motion of sediment is determined based on the Shields Diagram, while the bottom suspended sediment concentration, the bed load transport rate is figured out using the bottom shearing stress directly calculated from the numerically simulated flow field rather than the conventional quadratic law and frictional coefficient. In order to verify the proposed morphology model, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling, breaking over the uniform beach of 1/m slope, and its ensuing morphology change. Numerical results show that the partially skewed, and asymmetric bottom shearing stresses can be successfully simulated. It was shown that sediments suspended and eroded at the foreshore by wave breaking are gradually drifted toward a shore and accumulated in the process of up-rush, which eventually leads to the formation of swash bar. It is also worth mentioning that the breaker bar formed by the sediments dragged by the back-wash flow which commences at the pinnacle of up-rush as the back-wash flow gets weakened due to the increased depth was successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1995.10a
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• pp.39-43
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• 1995

본 연구에서는 퇴적물 이동에 의한 해빈단면 및 해안선의 변화 형태를 파랑모델이나 순환모델의 도움없이 예측하는 간단한 수치 모델을 제시하는 데 그 목적이 있다. 해안선의 변형에 대한 연구는 그동안 많은 진척되었으며 최근 해빈단면의 변형 모델은 물론 3차원적인 복잡한 해저면에도 적응할 수 있는 복합적인 토사이동 모델이 활발히 개발되고 있다(Watanabe 등, 1980； Wang and Miao, 1992； 과학기술처, 1992). (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.50-62
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• 1989

Shoreline change of Haeundae beach was predicted by one-line model considering interaction of seawalls and longshore variation of wave height . Wave deformation was calculated by combined wave refraction-diffraction model . In this shoreline change model, empirical constants and offshore sediment transport rate are treated as calibration parameters, and the calculated results are in good agreement with the observed data.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.595-605
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• 1994

The field observations. data analyses and numerical experiments are performed to investigate the short and long term beach deformation mechanisms in Haeundae beach. The schematic diagrams of deposition and erosion mechanism due to the attack of typhoons are described from the analysis on the beach widths and profiles. The short term beach deformation depends strongly on the characteristics of incident waves and wave-induced currents. The main incident wave and the calibration parameters of the shoreline change model are determined using the beach width data. Beacause the main incident wave approaches obliquly from the SE direction, the net westward longshore sediment transport occurs. Therefore the unbalance of longshore sediment budget in the east of the beach where the sediment source dose not exist causes a beach erosion. On the other hand, the deposited sand in the west is lost offshore by the storm wave action.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.266-273
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• 2016

Two-dimensional hydraulic experiments were performed to assess the impact of artificial seaweed on wave energy attenuation, and coastal erosion prevention. In this experimental study, erosion geometry and wave reflection coefficients were determined for normal and stormy incident waves, with and without artificial seaweed. The coastline of beaches without artificial vegetation was observed to retreat, and the longshore bar height increased in normal and stormy conditions. Through the introduction of artificial seaweed (of widths 0.8 m, and 1.6 m), the coastline was found to advance in the offshore direction due to material deposition. From these results, it is shown that artificial seaweed alters the cross-section of beaches, such that it is possible to prevent coastline erosion.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.37-49
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• 2024

To date, numerous empirical formulas have been proposed through hydraulic model experiments to predict the wave breaker index, including wave height and depth of wave breaking, due to the inherent complexity of generation mechanisms. Unfortunately, research on the characteristics of wave breaking and the prediction of the wave breaker index for gravel beaches has been limited. This study aims to forecast the wave breaker index for gravel beaches using representative linear-based machine learning techniques known for their high predictive performance in regression or classification problems across various research fields. Initially, the applicability of existing empirical formulas for wave breaker indices to gravel seabeds was assessed. Various linear-based machine learning algorithms were then employed to build prediction models, aiming to overcome the limitations of existing empirical formulas in predicting wave breaker indices for gravel seabeds. Among the developed machine learning models, a new calculation formula for easily computable wave breaker indices based on the model was proposed, demonstrating high predictive performance for wave height and depth of wave breaking on gravel beaches. The study validated the predictive capabilities of the proposed wave breaker indices through hydraulic model experiments and compared them with existing empirical formulas. Despite its simplicity as a polynomial, the newly proposed empirical formula for wave breaking indices in this study exhibited exceptional predictive performance for gravel beaches.