• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.165-175
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• 2011

In this study, document research on Jogakbo and Tosi were carried out and textile designs were developed by applying Jogakbo and Tosi together for motives. The purposes of this study were to develop a unique textile design, and then to enhance the competitiveness of Korean textile industry in the world market and pass down a Korean traditional fiber art cultural legacy. The results are as follows; First, the title of textile design was decided to "innocence of childhood" and the concepts are "sim ple heart ed, pure heart, sweet", in order to develop textile design for the young generation Second, Motives were chosen Jogakbo and Tosi to reflect Korean traditionality and identity and textile designs were expressed on ground fashion trends for modernity. Third, developed textile designs were printed with digital printing method for eco-friendly and productivity, and various articles clothing, nectie, shoes, bag, bedings were producted with developed fabrics for multipurpose. Forth, the developed textile designs were evaluated highly in point of Korean traditionality and identity, felling of simplehearted, pure hear and sweet, modernity and fashion trend, and preference by a sensory test of developed test design.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.47 no.1
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• pp.31-35
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• 2005

This study had done to find an easily-dyeing method for novices because the dyeing method of traditional indigo has not been general to the public so that only an expert could dye the fibers. The results are as the following. When the powders after burning the shell of cockle (tegillarca granosa) were added. pH of the solution was 12.35 The k/s value of 2.49 was the highest in the dye after dipping in the solution of indigo for 1-2 days and the k/s value was 3.10 when adding 20 g/l of the starch (55% corn-starchy products in Korean market) into the solution of indigo. In addtion, the k/s value was the highest when fermenting temperature was $30^{\circ}C$ and when the powders after burning the cockle shell were 4 g/l. There were no differences between water and lye of rice straw which had used for the ferment of indigo. The components of two dye which has traditionally made of the cockle shell and which has made of calcium hydroxide were all the same.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.393-402
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• 2005

Subjective touch sensation for Korean traditional silk fabrics was evaluated, in order to compare tactile sensory aspects of Korean and American subjects and to determine mechanical properties of the fabrics affecting the sensation psychophysically. Eight aspects of touch sensation including hardness, smoothness, coarseness, coolness, pliability, crispness, heaviness, and thickness were rated by semantic deferential scale. The mechanical properties of fabrics were measured by Kawabata Evaluation System (KES). Both of Koreans and Americans showed fairly similarities to each other in subjective smoothness, coarseness, and crispness. On the contrary, as for coolness and pliability, Koreans were found as feeling the silk fabrics more sensitively than Americans were in that they rated some of modified leno fabrics as very cool and stiff in touch. Coolness and pliability by Koreans were affected mainly by surface and bending properties while those by Americans were determined mostly by compressional and tensile characteristics as well as sulfate properties

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.486-493
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• 2008

Safflower red colorants extracted by two solvents including the traditional ash solution and $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution was used for dyeing cotton, ramie, viscose rayon, silk, wool, and nylon fabrics. The effects of extraction solvents on the reflectance, K/S value, and color properties of the dyed fabrics were investigated. Wash/dry cleaning and light colorfastness were evaluated. Reflectance curves of cotton, ramie, viscose rayon, and silk fabrics dyed with red colorants extracted by $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution were similar, showing the maximum absorption at 520nm, to that of the dyed fabrics with red colorants extracted by ash solution. The reflectance curves of wool and nylon fabrics were different, showing the maximum absorption at 400nm. K/S values of dyed fabrics with red colorants extracted by $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution were higher than that by ash solution with the exception of nylon. $L^{*},\;a^{*},\;b^{*}$, and $C^{*}$ of the dyed fabrics with red colorants extracted by $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution were higher than that by ash solution except for $L^{*}$ of nylon and $b^{*}$ of viscose rayon. Color difference(${{\Delta}E}^*$) of the dyed fabrics between ash solution and $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution increased in the order named as cotton, silk, ramie, viscose rayon, wool, and nylon. Regardless of extraction solvents, safflower red colorants produced RP color on cotton, ramie, and nylon, R color on viscose rayon and silk, and YR color on wool. Wash/dry cleaning fastness of the dyed fabrics was high above 3/4 rating but light fastness was very poor. It is considered that the use of $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution instead of the traditional ash solution would be more effective in terms of color reproducibility and extraction process.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.254-267
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• 2019

Clamp resist dyeing is a resist dyeing technique in which a fabric is sandwiched between two or more pieces of woodcarving and then a pattern is expressed by dyeing. Records from nine years of King Heungdeok's reign during the Unified Silla dynasty show that the use of the clamp resist dyeing technique was banned for different garments. This was only for garments of YOOKDUPUMNYEO (六頭品女) or OHDUPUMNYEO (五頭品女). Given this, it can be assumed that clamp resisted fabrics were widely used, and the technique had been established during the Unified Silla dynasty or before. However, only the term can be found in the records. Neither its definition nor how this technique was used is explained. Also, it is difficult to assume the types and features of clamp resist dyeing due to a lack of materials. A small number of relics from the Goryeo dynasty still remain, though. Craft techniques have developed through international exchanges and have changed according to respective nations' circumstances including politics, economics, society, and culture. Hence, this research analyzed documents and relics from China and Japan, two countries neighboring the Republic of Korea, and studied the different types and features of clamp resist dyeing techniques. Clamp resist dyeing techniques were divided into monochromatic or multichromatic according to the number of colors that represented patterns, rather than according to the respective nations' features. They were also classified into mono, bilateral symmetry, or vertical-bilateral symmetry according to the structure of the patterns. Through the study of examples of inherited or reproduced dyeing techniques in China and Japan, it was confirmed that different engraving techniques, including relief, openwork, intaglio fit for the feature of a pattern and the number of colors, were applied in order to vividly represent patterns on fabric. Using small flower pattern clamp resist dyed fine tabby in Amitabha of 1302, the only relic showing its patterns and colors in Korea, as the experiment subject, this research successfully reproduced a clamp resist dyeing technique through a successful experiment based on the basic materials from the dyeing technique case study. Due to the significance of the experiment on a clamp resist dyeing technique that stopped its transmission and shows the features of the technique, this study is expected to be a basic resource that can be used for future reproductions of multichromatic clamp resist dyeing techniques. Also, it is expected to be helpful in widening and recreating the world of Korean pattern dyeing with modern dyeing techniques.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1998.10a
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• pp.145-148
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• 1998

1821년경 최초로 "loess"라는 이름으로 사용된 황토는 산화철을 함유하는 황갈색의 광물성 염료이며, 이것은 일반적으로 황토가 포함된 원토를 채에 담아 물 속에서 선별하거나 바람에 날려 분리시켜 얻어지며, 분리되어진 황토는 불투명한 황갈색의 색조와 항균성이 있는 것으로 알려져 왔다[1]. 그러나 황토는 물기름, 유기용제 등에 불용성이며 섬유와 친화력이 없어 염색후 내세탁성이 낮아 황토 염색시 고착제인 콩즙을 이용하는 전통적인 방법이 알려지다가 최근에 Kim[2]은 고착제 없이 황토의 입자 크기를 5 $mu extrm{m}$ 이하로 하여 9$0^{\circ}C$에서 5~10 분간 교반하는 방법으로 면직물에 염색해 내세탁성과 항균성이 있는 염색물을 얻고자 하였으나 입자 크기가 5$\mu\textrm{m}$이하 수준에서도 친화력이 부족하여 내세탁성에는 크게 영향을 미치지 못하였으며 항균 효과도 낮게 나온 것으로 보고되었다. (중략)

• Archives of design research
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.197-207
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• 2001

A designed object reveals its meaning and image through form, color and material. Among these three elements, material has more powerful influence with its tactile and visual characteristics. In Korea, traditionally materials itself were mainly used to design artifacts rather than various color or formal decoration. The purpose of this study is to investigate the Korean traditional materials, and to classify them by the characteristics of their texture. For this study, the pictures of Korean traditional artifacts were collected from the national museums and literature. Those are architectural and interior elements, furniture, cloths and textiles, arts and crafts. Total of 533 collected artifacts were classified into seven categories, metal, day, stone, paper, wood, straw, fabric things. : 59 metal things, 115 clay things, 62 stone things, 73 paper things, 80 wood things, 47 straw things, 97 fabric things. Each materials were classified into its forming methods and surface treatment focused on the he characteristics of their surface texture. Throughout this study, the uniqueness of forming method and surface treatment of each materials in Korea has been clarified. And furthermore the classification by this various traditional methods of materials will provide plentiful information and ideas to today's designers of the world.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.85-98
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• 1996

WE SELECTED 30 SORTS OF PLANT-DYES WHICH WE CAN GET EASILY AROUND US DYED TEXTILE FABRICS THROUGH EXPERIMENTAL STUDIES AND GOT SEVERAL GOOD COLORS AS FOLLOWS WITH HISTORICAL REVIEW-ING ABOUT THE TRADITIONL NATU-RAL DYEING. 1. We got the colors of brown most com-monly yellow the nest black green and red in order of frequency 2. It is dyed more rapidly beautifully and deeply to the silk than to the cotton. 3. Salt worked the colors deeply K2CO3 more light FeSo47H2O more darkly and Alum the most beautifully and brightly as a mor-dant. 4. natural plant dyes contains various sorts of colors and we could confirm the possibility to create the composed implicit and secondary and tertiary colors through dual method of dyeing which couldnt's be got in the field of modern chemical dyes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.150-164
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• 2007

For the study on the African style reflected in fashion designs since 2000, the applications of African style shown in the four major collections from 2000 S/S to 2005 F/W and some African designers' collections have been analyzed and compared. In this study, 218 pieces of fashion design from the four major collections and 80 pieces from the African designers' collections have been analyzed in three categories - traditional clothes, traditional textile design and accessories. First, in the formal application of traditional clothes, the western clothes seasoned with the traditional images takes the majority of the cases in both the four major collections and the African designers' collections by 89.4% and 77.5%, respectively. However, the African designers have a tendency to actively receive modernism on the traditional clothes, while most of the western designers in the four major collections re-explain and distort the natural and primitive images of Africa into the ones longed for by the westerns. Second, in the textile design, the African designers adopt colorful and geometrical patterns of traditional textile designs of West Africa, while various animalistic patterns (36.2%) are used in the four major collections. The western designers mistakenly mix these patterns with those from the West or other traditional patterns from different cultures, obstructing proper understanding of the African culture. Third, accessories are the cultural elements most widely utilized by the African designers. In the African designers' collections, they are simplified to provide the functions well-matched with the modern clothes. In the four major collections, however, the primitive and colorful accessories found in African tribal culture are used in an exaggerated manner.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.101-116
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• 2010

In this study, the subjects are the expression methods and compositions of peony patterns in Chinese textiles. This study represents the peony patterns which are from Tang Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty, the research subjects are the peony patterns in fabric, except the peony patterns which are expressed by gold foil, embroidery and kesi. The objects of this study are 72 pieces of peony patterns. We sketched the configuration details of peony patterns through the Illustrator program. Analyze and classify the configuration accurately. Based on the 72 pieces of peony patterns, expression methods and compositions of the peony pattern are as following, firstly, we classified peony patterns into three categories, based on expression methods, as realistic shape, pattern shape and shape. Among these 72 fabric relics, there most of realistic shape 42 pieces(58.3%), pattern shape 25 pieces(34.7%), and shape 5 pieces(7.0%). Secondly, in the realistic shape peony, the most of pattern has petal accumulate as grape- shaped. This type is found in almost every Dynasty and was used regularly in the eras of Song and Ming Dynasty. In the era of Ming Dynasty, by using petals like the curly mushroom, Yeongji(靈芝), the pattern of symbolizing longevity was habitually used. The U-shaped flower pattern (type E) and the pattern of emphasizing the veins of petals are found only in the remains of the era of Qing Dynasty. Thirdly, in the pattern shaped peony, the most of pattern has some petals which are separated(type C). Fourthly, we classified peony patterns into four categories, based on compositions, as individual branch form, floral branch form, cluster branch form and floral nest form. Among these 72 fabric relics, there most of individual branch form 33 pieces(45.8%), floral branch form 18 pieces(25.0%), cluster branch form 13 pieces(18.1%), floral nest form 8 pieces(11.1%).