• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.4-17
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• 2011

The Baekje's cotton fabrics were excavated from 'Neungsan-ri temple site in Buyeo' (September 1999-April 2000) and stored at Buyeo National Museum after conservation treatment. In this study, it carred out non-destructive, chemical and morphological analysis for fiber identification, also considered on influx, features and difference between the 'Baek-cheop-po(Three kingdom period's cotton fiber)' and 'Mok-myeon(imported by Munikjeom, late Korea dynasty)'. As a result, the fiber proved cellulose fiber through analytical researches like color reaction, FT-IR(chemical analysis). It was also confirmed lumens, typical dimensional structure(morphological analysis) as an features of cotton fiber. The fiber was the first evidence in ancient Korea's cotton. But it can not prove that whether weaving were made in Baekje's area. However there were documentation that people in Beakje make cloth to silk fabric from 'Mahan period'. We can suppose that they have had an old weaving techniques. This study has a great historical, academic values as the only evidence for the hypothesis of a weaving technique of the Baekje's cotton. Through comparison to each region's ancient cottons, we can investigate the species of Baekje's cotton and ancient Korea cotton's influx.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1998.10a
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• pp.141-144
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• 1998

면직물은 뛰어난 위생성과 착용감등으로 인해 점점 그 사용량이 늘어가는 추세이나 착용시나 물세탁 후 쉽게 주름이 생기고, 천연섬유이므로 미생물의 침해를 받기 쉬운 단점을 가지고 있다. 이와 같은 면직물의 단점을 개선하기 위하여 많은 연구가 행하여져 왔고 전통적 인 방추가공으로서는 dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea(DMDHEU)와 같은 N-methylol계 agent가 사용되어져 왔으나 이를 이용한 방추가공은 가공시나 가공후 유리 formaldehyde가 배출되므로 안정성에 문제가 있어 문제가 되어왔다. (중략)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.6
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• pp.1226-1240
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• 2024

The purpose of this literature review is to identify the types of cotton fabrics recorded in the accounting record documents of Song Hwa-seon, a wholesaler in the early 20th century, and to clarify characteristics of each type. First, the changes in the cotton industry in the late Joseon Dynasty were examined through ancient documents and previous studies. Next, the types of fabrics that could be classified as cotton fabrics in Song Hwa-seon's Janggi were extracted, and the frequency of each type was analyzed. Finally, the characteristics of the cotton fabrics recorded in the Janggi were examined through literature and newspaper articles published at the time. The results of the study are as follows. First, the cotton fabrics recorded in the Janggi could be classified into 12 types, with Gwangmok being the most frequent, and Ok-yangmok being the second most frequent. Second, it was confirmed that a significant amount of Western and Japanese cotton textiles, were distributed in the modern Korean market. Third, while imported cotton fabrics of broad width were popular in the early 20th century, it was confirmed that the demand for traditional cotton textiles, characterized by a narrow width was also high in the domestic market.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1998.10a
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• pp.145-148
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• 1998

1821년경 최초로 "loess"라는 이름으로 사용된 황토는 산화철을 함유하는 황갈색의 광물성 염료이며, 이것은 일반적으로 황토가 포함된 원토를 채에 담아 물 속에서 선별하거나 바람에 날려 분리시켜 얻어지며, 분리되어진 황토는 불투명한 황갈색의 색조와 항균성이 있는 것으로 알려져 왔다[1]. 그러나 황토는 물기름, 유기용제 등에 불용성이며 섬유와 친화력이 없어 염색후 내세탁성이 낮아 황토 염색시 고착제인 콩즙을 이용하는 전통적인 방법이 알려지다가 최근에 Kim[2]은 고착제 없이 황토의 입자 크기를 5 $mu extrm{m}$ 이하로 하여 9$0^{\circ}C$에서 5~10 분간 교반하는 방법으로 면직물에 염색해 내세탁성과 항균성이 있는 염색물을 얻고자 하였으나 입자 크기가 5$\mu\textrm{m}$이하 수준에서도 친화력이 부족하여 내세탁성에는 크게 영향을 미치지 못하였으며 항균 효과도 낮게 나온 것으로 보고되었다. (중략)

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

This study analyzed the characteristics of Korean traditional plain weave excavated from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. To do this, this study classified the Korean traditional plain weave into fiber types(cotton, hemp & ramie, plain weaved silk), analyzed and compared the thickness, twist type of yarns and density by times. First, in characteristics of cotton, the average and maximum density of Joseon Dynasty were higher than those of Goryeo, twist type was mainly s-twist and the density of warp was higher than that of weft. Second, the maximum density of hemp & ramie was found in era of Three Kingdoms of Korea. In common characteristics of hemp & ramie, twist type was mainly s-twist(sometimes non-twist) to the Three Kingdoms of Korea and was changed into non-twist from the Goryeo. The density of warp was higher than that of weft in common. Generally, the average density of ramie was higher than that of hemp. Third, in the characteristics of plain weaved silk, twist type was mainly non-twist(sometimes s and z-twist) from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. Warp-faced ribbed tabby was excavated in Goryeo, the average density of warp-faced ribbed tabby was higher than that of other fiber types plain weave. Generally, in all fiber types, the density of warp was higher than that of weft.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.525-531
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• 2018

This paper proposes a bi-component dye, including the unripe fruit of Diospyros kaki THUNB and Ecklonia cava, to substitute for traditional persimmon dyeing because fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffer and natural persimmon is insufficient for dyeing. This study examined the color difference and fabric stiffness depending on the ratio of Ecklonia cava for in a one-bath dye solution with Diospyros kaki THUNB and showed that 6% of Ecklonia cava in the bi-component dye was the optimum for decreasing the fabric stiffness. Based on these results, a bi-component dye constituting of 94% Diospyros kaki THUNB and 6% Ecklonia cava was prepared. The particle size was found to be smaller than both single dyes and it maintained a similar amount of Catechin to Diospyros kaki THUNB dye. Finally, cotton fabric dyed with a bi-component dye was much improved in terms of the fabric hand and the surface color was similar to that of the traditional persimmon-dyed fabric. These results could help to develop the natural persimmon dyeing industry.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.55-66
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• 2016

This study was aimed to characterize the color of cotton fabric dyed with three different natural resources such as persimmon, citrus, and brown algae and to propose new trend color themes for fashion color planning for newborn and toddler wear. A variety of color shades by dyeing cotton fabric with persimmon, citrus, and brown algae respectively was obtained and each color was also determined if it could be matched with one of Pantone TPX considering authorized color trends for 2016 Spring/Summer. Finally a group of new trend color theme for 2016S/S newborn and toddler wear were proposed for naturally dyed cotton fabric. As results, the three natural dyeing resources gave color gamut with hue ranging from Purple Blue to Green Yellow and with tones including pale, light grayish, soft, grayish, and dull by their single and compound dyeing. A total of 23 colors matched to Pantone TPX were considered for the fashion color planning by natural dyeing. The selected natural colors were grouped as three different color ways and thereafter the color ways were differentiated in terms of representative color sensibility by using subjective evaluation. Finally three characterized color themes were proposed as 'Serenity', 'Juicy', and 'Fancy', each of which has tried to express differentiated feeling of each natural resources for dyeing, to follow up to global color trends, and to contribute to newborn and toddler wear's own requirements and marketability. These results suggest that natural dyeing colors could be applied into fashion color planning in current fashion industries in order to produce more sensible and emotional design of fashion goods using natural dyeing.