• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.4 s.54
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• pp.337-342
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• 2005

The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of different skin care ingredient concentrations on the effect of polyols and oils on the human skin moisturization and skin surface roughness. Polyols and oils were essential ingredients to make a skin care formulation. But these were still not understood how much concentration(s) were tested on human skin in the aspect of efficacy and sensory. We studied to examine various concentrations of ingredient by cosmetic companies using noninvasive methods. Polyols were composed of glycerol and butylene glycol (BG) as 1:1 ratio, and oils were hydrogenated polydecene, cetyl ethylhexanoate and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate (PTO(R), Stearinerie Dubois Fils Co., France) as 1:1:1 ratio. All compounds were tested $0{\sim}27%dml$ Polyols and $0{\sim}35%dml$ oils in O/W emulsions. We investigated the effect of water contents and the effect of stratum corneum roughness in forearm skin after application of compounds. Water contents of the skin measured by skin capacitance and skin surface roughness measured visual scoring of skin surface biopsy through the scanning electron microscopy. Water contents of the skin were highly related to amount of polyols (to 20%) and oils (to 12%). Correlation coefficients were 0.971 and 0.985 respectively (p<0.01), 2 h after application. Skin surface roughness was positively correlated with polyol contents in concentration dependent manner, and depend on oils up to 6%. The ratio of coefficient was 2.5 to 1 (polyol to oils) by regression analysis. Further studies will be conducted with other ingredients such as surfactants, lipids and aqueous materials, and with ether methods for noninvasive measurement.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.427-438
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• 2004

Cosmeceuticals products we not the products simply for moisturizing and protecting skin but the ones for encouraging to make improvements on wrinkles and helping to whiten, tan, and protect skin against ultraviolet light. In a broader sense, they refer to products with aiming to maintain healthy condition of skin such that skin troubles could be improved or aging of skin could be delayed. However, cosmeceuticals should not have any side effects because they are applied to the whole body for a long period of time differing from medical products which are used on specific areas for a short time. The number of such cosmeceuticals has increased from 500 in 2001 to 2300 in 2003. In order to develop and broaden the scope of cosmeceuticals, the concept of cosmetics needs to be changed from caring skin to delaying aging of the skin and reviving cells. For this purpose, high-valued materials should be developed through basic researches related to the biological function of skin, in vivo experiment and reaction of skin in response to various stimuli using biotechnologies and bioengineering methods. At the same time, it should be proceeded to develop new nano materials for overcoming skin barriers and transfer matericals for helping to absorb effective substances and maintaining stability.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.2
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• pp.183-192
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• 2023

In this study, we investigated the antioxidant activity, anti-inflammatory activity, whitening, moisturizing, wound-healing, cell proliferation and cell protective effects of 70% EtOH and hot water extract from Scutellaria baicalensis. For the anti-oxidative test, the 70% EtOH and hot water extract showed DPPH radical scavenging activities. In the anti-inflammatory tests, 70% EtOH and hot water extract inhibited the production of NO, pro-inflammatory cytokine (IL-6) and prostaglandin (PGE₂). In addition, it was confirmed that the 70% EtOH and hot water extract inhibited the melanin production, and increased production of hyaluronic acid (HA), a moisturizing factor. As a result of cell migration and proliferation assay, 70% EtOH extract promoted the cell growth in HaCaT cell. Additionally, 70% EtOH and hot water extract showed cell protective effects against UVB, and 70% EtOH extract also showed cell protective effects agianst blue light. Based on these results, it is concluded that the 70% EtOH and hot water extract from Scutellaria baicalensis could be potentially applicable as anti-oxdiative, anti-inflammation, whitening, moisturizing, wound-healing, cell proliferation and cell protective effects in cosmetic natural materials.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.43 no.2
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• pp.109-115
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• 2001

Silk sericin protein was extracted by treatment with enzyme or NaOH solution from raw silk and culled-cocoon shell. The extracted sericin was characterized and examined the functional properties as well as subjective properties for its use as a soap and a body cleaner. The optimum extraction conditions on specimen are NaOH (0.02 wt.%) or enzyme, Flavourzyme 3% under N2 gas. Molecular weights of sericin was decreased by treatment with enzyme, Actinase, from 10,000-30,000 to 2,700-4,200. Sericin showed important bioactive properties, for instance, lowering effect on blood glucose and alcohol. Subjective test of sericin soap and body cleaner showed superior in washability, foamability, and skin hydration, etc., to commercial soap and body cleaner. Therefore, it is thought that silk sericin can be expected as the source of bioactive and skin-compatible materials.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.9-17
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• 2019

In this study, $L-{\alpha}-amino$ acid, which is a constituent of natural moisturizing factor, was applied to skin in periodic cycle to improve skin tone and texture roughness. Based on the polarity of the alkyl group (R) of the $L-{\alpha}-amino$ acid, the acid was categorized into two groups and their efficacy was studied. As a result, it was found that the improvement rate of $L-{\alpha}-amino$ acid complex with polar alkyl group ($L-{\alpha}-AAC-1$) is 21% higher than that of $L-{\alpha}-amino$ acid complex with non-polar alkyl group ($L-{\alpha}-AAC-2$). For clinical trials, emulsions containing $L-{\alpha}-amino$ acid complex ($L-{\alpha}-AAC-1$) were applied to the randomly selected 20 to 40 year old female participants, as an experimental group, on the right facial cheek once per day for 8 weeks, and emulsions without $L-{\alpha}-amino$ acid complex, as a control group, were applied to the left facial cheek in the same way. Improvements in skin tone were measured using $JANUS^{(R)}$ equipment and analyzed using image analysis software. Skin texture improvement was measured and analyzed mechanically using the phaseshift rapid in-vivo measurement of the skin (PRIMOS) equipment. As a result, improvements of skin tone and skin texture were 11.7% and 6.7%, respectively. In addition, a questionnaire survey was conducted to the participants on the aesthetic improvement and the degree of the feeling of skin improvement. The results suggest that $L-{\alpha}-amino$ acid can be used as a cosmetic substance that can provide aesthetic satisfaction through physiological skin tone and texture roughness.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.1285-1297
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• 2020

In this study, we report the results of a study on the clinical evaluation of wrinkle improvement by developing a method for liposome of high-purity Centella asiatica extract used in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, and a cream using the same. In order to make Centellasome-10EX stabilizing centella asiatica extract in liposome lamella vesicle, it could be completed using 5% hydrogenated lecithin and 2% sucrose distearate. The appearance of Centellasome-10EX was a creamy form of low viscosity, the color was pale yellow, and the odor had the inherent odor of the raw material. The pH was about 6.12, the specific gravity was 1.09, and the acid value was about 0.35. The content of the main constituents of centella asiatica extract contained in the liposome vesicle contains 10,800 ppm of asiatic acid, 10,900 ppm of asiaticoside, 6,000 ppm of madecasic acid, and 1,600 ppm of madecassoside, and long-term storage. There was no discoloration even at the time, and it was found that the main component remained stable thermodynamically. To mechanistically analyze the structure of the liposome vesicle of Centellasome-10EX, as a result of observation with a transmission electron microscope (Cryo-TEM), the multilayer vesicles are formed and filled with moisture, and there are 10 to 60 multilayers around it. It was confirmed that the liposome lamella vesicle was formed. As a clinical trial (in-vivo) test, the moisturizing effect of centellasome cream after application for 5 weeks was 28.3%, which was significantly increased compared to placebo. The skin elasticity effect was 13.6%, which significantly increased the moisturizing power than the placebo. The effect of improving fine wrinkles around the eyes was improved by 23.52% compared to placebo cream. Through the results of this study, it was possible to study the formulation and manufacturing method for encapsulation and stabilization of the developed Centellasome-10EX in the liposome vesicle. It is expected that the results obtained through clinical research on the wrinkle improvement effect of the cream using this can be widely used to study skin science in the cosmetic industry and to develop high-quality cosmetics with high efficacy.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.369-375
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• 2004

In this study, liquid crystalline (LC) is formed using Gemini surfactant (GS) type and moisturizing effect in vivo is measured. $3.0\;wt\%$ of sodium dicocoyl ethylene diamine (PEG)-15 sulfate (SCD-PEG-15S) is used as GS and $4.0\;wt\%$ of hydrogenated dimer acid esters (HDAE) as booster. For stabilizers, $2.0\;wt\%$ of behenyl alcohol (BA) and $1.0\;wt\%$ of Iyso-lecithin (LyL) are utilized. It is stabilized in pH from 4.0 to 10.5 and the best condition is in pH 6.5. The value of viscosity is $8,000\pm500$ cP. The most excellent particles are formed within the range of 4.0 to 15.5 um. Formed LC is observed around LC particles using polarization microscope. It is also observed that lamellar gel network structure is formed around LC particles. Moisturizing effect is improved by $13.6\%$ (P<0.05) compared to control when measured 30 min later after coating samples. After 1 h, moisturizing effect is improved by 1$12.6\%$ (P<0.05) than control while showing $28.3\%$ (P<0.05) of improvement after 4 h. These results may be caused from that manufactured LC forms lamellar structure so that it has better water-holding ability and absorbance of oil increases. This formula could be utilized by delivery system (DS) on skin so that this technology can be applied for manufactuing pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.280-289
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• 2013

Various vehicles have been studied in order to protect skin ageing and sustain constantly moisturization. Recently, in relation to maintain of moisture, absorption and penetration of active materials, there has been introducing many preparing methods such as liposome, liquid crystal and multilamellar emulsion. We developed multilayer lamellar vesicle using cetearyl alcohol/ceteth-20 phosphate/dicetyl phosphate as analogy of phospholipid according to variation of shear rate and pH. These multilayer lamellar vesicles were confirmed by cross polarizing microscope. As results, morphologies of lamellar vesicle were not uniformed at low shear rate and pH. Also, stabilities for encapsulation of retinol were observed at $42^{\circ}C$ during two months. As a result, quantitative content of retinol decreased at low pH. Multilayer lamellar vesicle decreased 14% of transepidermal water loss compared with O/W emulsion. We compared multilayer lamellar sun cream to O/W sun cream using in vitro SPF test of water resistance and concluded that multilayer lamellar sun cream is similar to O/W sun cream in water resistance.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.345-352
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• 2004

There are two paradigms to explain the atopic dermatitis. The first is outside-inside paradigm and the second is inside-outside paradigm. According to the outside-inside paradigm the best way to treat the atopic dermatitis is recovery of skin barrier function. The barrier function is maintained by the specific structure of stratum corneum, which is constructed from corneocytes and intercellular lipids. In terms of lipid structures of SC in atopic dermatitis and lamellar ichthyosis, they contain more fluid hexagonal gel structures in SC and show deficiencies in free fatty acids, especially long chains and certain ceramides. With this reason, moisturizer which has the lamellar structure and restoring function of intrinsic intercellualr long periodicity phase can maintain and restore the lamellar structure of intercellular lipids in SC. The moisturizers containing ceramide or pseudoceramide also seem to be reasonable therapy for atopic dermatitis and several skin diseases, which interrelated with impaired skin harrier. By the way, according to the inside-outside paradigm, immune response including helper T cells, IgE, eosinophils is related. It is effective treatment of atopic dermititis to restore imbalance between Th1 and Th2 cells. Even though several kinds of immune-suppressor were introduced, these can affect the intrinsic immune function. SPC and S1P, metabolites of ceramide, would be interesting because they have the function of wound healing and immune modulating properties.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.62-69
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• 2018

In order to utilize health food chick bean as a raw material for cosmetics, the skin improvement effect of a mask pack made of chickpea Natto fermented with Bacillus subtilis Natto strain was studied. Powder obtained by lyophilization of chickpea Natto was applied to a facial mask pack as a paste formulation. This Natto pack was applied to subjects in their 50s and 60s to investigate their effect on skin improvement. As the number of treatments of Natto pack increased, the skin was improved and the improvement effect was remarkable after 4 treatments. After four times treatments, moisture content and sebaceous secretion increased by $8.4{\pm}3.6%p$ and $4.0{\pm}2.3%p$, respectively. Skin pores and wrinkles were also decreased by $1.8{\pm}0.3%p$ and $1.8{\pm}0.9%p$, respectively. Skin pigmentation decreased by $1.3{\pm}0.2%p$ and skin tone also increased from 55.2% to 55.9%. These results indicate that Natto product obtained by fermenting chickpea has the effect of improving skin such as moisturizing, pore, wrinkle, pigmentation, sebum secretion and skin tone, and can be used as a raw material for various functional cosmetics.