Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology (한국응용과학기술학회지)

The Korean Society of Applied Science and Technology (한국응용과학기술학회)
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Preparation and Characteristics of Multilayer Lamellar Vesicle Using Phosphate Ester Surfactant

Phosphate ester 계면활성제를 이용한 다중층 라멜라 베시클의 제조 및 특성

  • 김영호 (한불화장품(주) 기술연구소) ;
  • 이상길 (한불화장품(주) 기술연구소) ;
  • 정은지 (한불화장품(주) 기술연구소) ;
  • 이동원 (한불화장품(주) 기술연구소) ;
  • 표형배 (한불화장품(주) 기술연구소) ;
  • 이동규 (충북대학교 공과대학 공업화학과)
  • Received : 2013.05.21
  • Accepted : 2013.06.28
  • Published : 2013.06.30
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Abstract

Various vehicles have been studied in order to protect skin ageing and sustain constantly moisturization. Recently, in relation to maintain of moisture, absorption and penetration of active materials, there has been introducing many preparing methods such as liposome, liquid crystal and multilamellar emulsion. We developed multilayer lamellar vesicle using cetearyl alcohol/ceteth-20 phosphate/dicetyl phosphate as analogy of phospholipid according to variation of shear rate and pH. These multilayer lamellar vesicles were confirmed by cross polarizing microscope. As results, morphologies of lamellar vesicle were not uniformed at low shear rate and pH. Also, stabilities for encapsulation of retinol were observed at $42^{\circ}C$ during two months. As a result, quantitative content of retinol decreased at low pH. Multilayer lamellar vesicle decreased 14% of transepidermal water loss compared with O/W emulsion. We compared multilayer lamellar sun cream to O/W sun cream using in vitro SPF test of water resistance and concluded that multilayer lamellar sun cream is similar to O/W sun cream in water resistance.

피부 노화를 방지하고 지속적으로 보습을 유지하기 위해 다양한 베시클들이 연구되고 있다. 최근에 활성물질의 흡수, 투과 및 보습의 유지와 관련하여 리포좀, 액정 및 다중층 라멜라 에멀젼 같은 많은 제조 방법들이 소개되고 있다. 본 연구에서는 인지질과 유사한 cetearyl alcohol/ceteth-20 phosphate/dicetyl phosphate 계면활성제를 이용하여 전단세기 및 pH 변화에 따른 다중층 라멜라 베시클을 개발하였으며 편광현미경을 통해 확인하였다. 결과로서 낮은 전단세기 및 pH에서는 라멜라 베시클 입자의 형태가 불균일하게 형성됨을 확인하였다. $42^{\circ}C$에서 2개월 간의 라멜라 베시클 내의 레티놀 함량의 변화를 측정한 결과 낮은 pH에서 레티놀의 함량이 감소하였다. 또한, 이 라멜라 베시클은 일반 O/W 에멀젼에 비해 피부 수분손실량이 14% 감소됨을 확인하였으며, O/W 썬 크림과 내수성 in vitro SPF를 측정하여 비교한 결과 UVB와 UVA 영역 모두에서 자외선을 잘 차단하여 유사한 내수성을 보이고 있음을 확인하였다.

Keywords

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