Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Preparation of Liquid Crystalline with Gemini Surfactant

제미니형 계면활성제를 사용한 액정기술의 제조방법

  • Zhoh Choon-Koo (Department of Chemical 8f Environmental Engineering, University of Soongsil) ;
  • Kim In-Young (Department of Chemical & Environmental Engineering, University of Soongsil) ;
  • Han Chang-Giu (Cosmetic R&D Center, Korea Kolmar)
  • Published : 2004.11.01
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Abstract

In this study, liquid crystalline (LC) is formed using Gemini surfactant (GS) type and moisturizing effect in vivo is measured. $3.0\;wt\%$ of sodium dicocoyl ethylene diamine (PEG)-15 sulfate (SCD-PEG-15S) is used as GS and $4.0\;wt\%$ of hydrogenated dimer acid esters (HDAE) as booster. For stabilizers, $2.0\;wt\%$ of behenyl alcohol (BA) and $1.0\;wt\%$ of Iyso-lecithin (LyL) are utilized. It is stabilized in pH from 4.0 to 10.5 and the best condition is in pH 6.5. The value of viscosity is $8,000\pm500$ cP. The most excellent particles are formed within the range of 4.0 to 15.5 um. Formed LC is observed around LC particles using polarization microscope. It is also observed that lamellar gel network structure is formed around LC particles. Moisturizing effect is improved by $13.6\%$ (P<0.05) compared to control when measured 30 min later after coating samples. After 1 h, moisturizing effect is improved by 1$12.6\%$ (P<0.05) than control while showing $28.3\%$ (P<0.05) of improvement after 4 h. These results may be caused from that manufactured LC forms lamellar structure so that it has better water-holding ability and absorbance of oil increases. This formula could be utilized by delivery system (DS) on skin so that this technology can be applied for manufactuing pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.

제미니형 계면활성제를 사용하여 액정을 제조하였으며 보습효능을 측정하였다. 계면활성제로는 디코코일에틸렌디아민(PEG) -15설페이트 (SCD-PEG-15S) $3.0\;wt\%$와 부스터로는 수소첨가 다이머에씨드에스터(HDAE) $4.0\;wt\%$를 사용하였다. 안정화제로 베헤닐알코올(BA) $2.0\;\;wt\%$와 리소레시친(LyL) $1.0\;wt\%$를 사용하였다. $pH 4.0{\~}10.5$ 범위에서 안정하였으며 최적조건은 6.5이었다. 가장 안정한 상태의 점도는 $8,000{\pm}500$ cP이었으며. 입자크기는 4.0에서 15.5 um 범위에서 가장 잘 형성되었다. 입자의 모양과 구조는 편광현미경을 통하여 관찰하였으며, LC의 입자 주변에 액정이 형성되었음을 확인하였다. 또한 액정의 입자주변에 겔 네트워크 구조를 형성하고 있다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 시료도포 후 30 min 경과후의 보습효과는 control보다 $13.6\%$ (P<0.05) 증가함을 보였으며, 1 h 후의 보습효과는 control보다 $12.6\%$ (P<0.05) 증가함을 보였다. 또한 4 h 후의 보습효과는 control보다 $28.3\%$ (P<0.05) 증가하였다. 이는 제조한 액정이 라멜라형 구조를 형성하여 수분 포접력과 오일의 흡착력 증가로 인한 효과로 판단된다. 향후 피부의 전달체계(delivery system)에의 적용이 가능하고 나아가 의약이나 제약, 화장품 등을 만드는데 응용될 것으로 기대된다.

Keywords

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