• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.87-92
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• 2008

Wood vinegar is well known as a softening agent affecting on the stratum corneum that is easy to penetrate into the skin. In this study, we prepared mixed ursolic acid hydrogel with wood vinegar(1, 2, 5%) as a penetration enhancer. The accumulation of ursolic acid in the skin from hydrogels was evaluated in vitro hairless mouse skin and skin moisturizing effect of them was evaluated using the corneometer and the tewermeter. And the role of stratum corneum as a protective barrier was evaluated as well. The hydrogels were retained about 40% of water retention capacity 2hrs and had better effect on the stripped skin than full-thickness skin. The accumulation of ursolic acid through stripped skin from hydrogels with wood vinegar was not change compared to normal skin, which indicated the action site of wood vinegar and the accumulation site of ursolic acid would be stratum corneum. From these result, we could find wood vinegar seems to be a good enhancer for active materials with anti-wrinkle and anti aging effect such as ursolic acid, and can be a developed topical delivery system maintaining excellent water retention capacity.

• The Journal of Pediatrics of Korean Medicine
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.1-9
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• 2024

Objective The purpose of this study was to confirm the effects of Galgeunhwanggeumhwangryeon-tang (PSCG) extract on skin moisturizing, antibacterial, and tight junction recovery in atopic dermatitis-induced mice. Methods In this study, we used 4-week-old NC/Nga mice divided into four groups: control (Ctrl), lipid barrier elimination (LBE), dexamethasone (Dx) after lipid barrier elimination (DEX), and PSCG after lipid barrier elimination (PSC). Ten rats were assigned to each treatment group. Three days after drug administration following lipid barrier elimination, ceramide kinase, caspase 14, sodium hydrogen antiporter (NHE), cathelicidin, claudin, and toll-like receptor (TLR)-2 were observed to confirm the restoration of skin moisturizer production, antimicrobial barriers, and tight junctions in the skin barrier. Results Ceramide kinase and caspase 14 positive reaction were significantly higher in PSC than in LBE and DEX. Both NHE and cathelicidin showed higher positive reactions in PSC than in LBE and DEX. Claudin, and TLR-2 showed higher levels of positive staining in the PSC group than in the LBE and DEX groups. Conclusion It was confirmed that the PSCG extract can have the potential to restore the damaged skin barrier in atopic dermatitis.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.492-504
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• 2018

This study was conducted to investigate the effects of seaweed peeling (SP), glycolic acid peeling (GP) and general scrub (GS), which are widely known as cures for acne in both medicine and esthetics on the keratosis pilaris skin and provide basic data for a keratosis pilaris improvement program. For the experiment, subjects were categorized into control (GS) and experimental (GP and SP) groups, and tests were performed on arms and legs with relatively high keratosis pilaris symptoms (5 parts for each group) for 6 weeks. The keratin quantity, sebum content, moisture level and pigmentation were measured before and after (2, 4 and 6 weeks) the experiment and comparatively analyzed. The GP group showed an increase in moisture level (t=-4.064, p<0.01) but a decrease in pigmentation (t=3.536, p<0.01), while a decrease in keratin quantity (t=2.370, p<0.05) and pigmentation (t=4.017, p<0.01) was observed in the SP group and a decrease in keratin quantity (t=2.834, p<0.05) and an increase in moisture level (t=-7.589, p<0.001) was observed in the control group (GS). Additionally, the skin irritation reaction was lowest in the GS group. The SP group had the highest satisfaction with the improvement in response to keratosis pilaris care. When asked if they were willing to get the treatment with the same product, both SP and GP groups were high. In other words, keratosis pilaris care was needed in both experimental and control groups. Overall, the results of this study indicate that SP, GP and GS, which are commonly used in remedying acne, normalize turnover cycle by removing the dead cells from around the pores and improve keratosis pilaris symptoms by increasing moisture in the skin. Therefore, to improve keratosis pilaris skin, it is important to keep removing keratin and using a moisturizer that provides a skin barrier on a regular basis. The results presented herein will be useful as basic data for a keratosis pilaris improvement program.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.159-165
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• 2004

This study described about method that forms liquid crystal gel (LCG) by main ingredient with hydrogenated lechin (HL) in O/W emulsion system. Result of stability test is as following with most suitable LCG's composition. Composition of LCG is as following, to form liquid crystal, an emulsifier used 4.0wt% of cetostearyl alcohol (CA) by 4.0wt% of HL as a booster. Moisturizers contained 2wt% of glycerin and 3.0wt% of 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG). Suitable emollients used 3.0wt% of cyclomethicone, 3.0wt% of isononyl isononanoate (ININ), 3.0wt% of cerpric/carprylic triglycerides (CCTG), 3.0wt% of macademia nut oil (MNO) in liquid crystal gel formation. On optimum conditions of LCG formation, the pHs were formed all well under acidity or alkalinity conditions (pH=4.0-11.0). Considering safety of skin, pH was the most suitable 6.0${\pm}$1.0 ranges. The stable hardness of LCG formation appeared best in 32 dyne/$\textrm{cm}^2$. Particle of LCG is forming size of 1-20$\mu\textrm{m}$ range, and confirmed that the most excellent LCG is formed in 1-6$\mu\textrm{m}$ range. According to result that observe shape of LCG with optical or polarization microscope, LCG could was formed, and confirmed that is forming multi -layer lamellar type structure around the LCG. Moisturizing effect measured clinical test about 20 volunteers. As a result, moisturizing effect of LCG compares to placebo cream was increased 36.6%. This could predicted that polyol group is appeared the actual state because is adsorbed much to round liquid crystal droplets to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. It could predicted that polyol group is vast quantity present phase that appear mixed because is adsorbed to round liquid crystal to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. This LCG formation theory may contribute greatly in cosmetics and pharmacy industry development.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.4 s.48
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• pp.533-541
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• 2004

Atopic dermatitis, also called congenital fever, is a allergic eczema of chronic itching disease. It is a recurrent and familial disease and appears on a wide age group from infant to adult. It is very common, and the ratio of occurrence is about $9{\~}l2\%$ of a child. However. it is showing trend of continuous increase by social and natural environment, food culture, and life style, recently. The human skin plays a barrier role against a physical and chemical stimulus from external environment. According to the latest study, the decreased amount of ceramide in horny layer impairs the bier function and moisture-maintaining function of skin in atopic dematitis patient. Ceramide is a kind of the sphingolipid in which a fatty acid is connected to sphingosin. Ceramide constitutes about $40\%$ of total lipid between keratinocytes and has the function of defense wall and building regular structure to suppress moisture vaporization in horny layer. In horny layer of skin a comified cell is composed of multi-layer structure of a brick shape, and, as for this cornified cell, it is strongly connected by ceramide, cholesterol, and free fatty acid. Here, we described the effects of a cream containing ceramide on the recovery of skin harrier function of atopic dermatitis patient. The safety and efficacy of latex and liquid formula were evaluated as cosmetics for atopic dermatitis. The latex products was composed of intercellular lipid components-ceramide, cholesterol, and free fatty acid-to restore skin barrier function in atopic dermatitis patients. The liquid one contained beta-glucan, magnolia extracts, and licolice extracts, which have skin immunomodulatory and anti-inflammatory effects. It is also confirmed that their possibility on new cosmetic market of atopic dermatitis.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.263-278
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• 2004

Ursolic acid (UA) and Oleanolic acid (ONA), known as urson, micromerol and malol, are pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds which naturally occur in a large number of vegetarian foods, medicinal herbs, and plants. They may occur in their free acid form or as aglycones for triterpenoid saponins, which are comprised of a triterpenoid aglycone, linked to one or more sugar moieties. Therefore UA and ONA are similar in pharmacological activity. Lately scientific research, which led to the identification of UA and ONA, revealed that several pharmacological effects, such as antitumor, hepato-protective, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperlipidemic could be attributed to UA and ONA. Here, we introduced the effect of UA and ONA on acutely barrier disrupted and normal hairless mouse skin. To evaluate the effects of UA and ONA on epidermal permeability barrier recovery, both flanks of 8-12 week-old hairless mice were topically treated with either 0.01-0.1mg/mL UA or 0.1-1mg/mL ONA after tape stripping, and TEWL (transepidermal water loss) was measured. The recovery rate increased in those UA or ONA treated groups (0.1mg/mL UA and 0.5mg/mL ONA) at 6h more than 20% compared to vehicle treated group (p < 0.05). Here, we introduced the effects of UA and ONA on acute barrier disruption and normal epidermal permeability barrier function. For verifying the effects of UA and ONA on normal epidermal barrier, hydration and TEWL were measured for 1 and 3 weeks after UA and ONA applications (2mg/mL per day). We also investigated the features of epidermis and dermis using electron microscopy (EM) and light microscopy (LM). Both samples increased hydration compared to vehicle group from 1 week without TEWL alteration (p < 0.005). EM examination using RuO4 and OsO4 fixation revealed that secretion and numbers of lamellar bodies and complete formation of lipid bilayers were most prominent (ONA=UA > vehicle). LM finding showed that thickness of stratum corneum (SC) was slightly increased and especially epidermal thickening and flattening was observed (UA > ONA > vehicle). We also observed that UA and ONA stimulate epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Protein expression of involucrin, loricrin, and filaggrin increased at least 2 and 3 fold in HaCaT cells treated with either ONA (10${\mu}$M) or UA (10${\mu}$M) for 24 h respectively. This result suggested that the UA and ONA can improve epidermal permeability barrier function and induce the epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Using Masson-trichrome and elastic fiber staining, we observed collagen thickening and elastic fiber elongation by UA and ONA treatments. In vitro results of collagen and elastin synthesis and elastase inhibitory activity measurements were also confirmed in vivo findings. These data suggested that the effects of UA and ONA related to not only epidermal permeability barrier functions but also dermal collagen and elastic fiber synthesis. Taken together, UA and ONA can be relevant candidates to improve epidermal and dermal functions and pertinent agents for cosmeseutical applications.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.315-324
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• 2015

In this study, we prepared liquid crystal emulsion composed of amphiphilic substance $C_{14-22}$ alcohol, $C_{12-20}$ alkyl glucoside, behenyl alcohol and studied liquid crystal emulsion of properties and in vitro skin permeation. The results of formulation experiments, the clear liquid crystalline structure was observed in the ratio of $C_{14-22}$ alcohol 0.8%, $C_{12-20}$ alkyl glucoside 3.2%, behenyl alcohol 4% in the formulation. The results of physical property measurements, the viscosity of liquid crystal emulsion and O/W emulsion applied as a control group was respectively $1871.26{\sim}1.15Pa{\cdot}s$, $1768.69{\sim}1.14Pa{\cdot}s$ and the shear stress of O/W emulsion was 178.68 ~ 909.18 Pa, that of liquid crystal emulsion was 190.45 ~ 919.38 Pa. The storage modulus of O/W emulsion was 3428.53 ~ 9157.45 Pa, that of liquid crystal emulsion was 4487.82 ~ 8195.59 Pa. The tan (delta) value of O/W emulsion which means a ratio of viscosity to elasticity was 0.43 ~ 0.19, and that of liquid crystal emulsion was 0.23 ~ 0.25. The water content value on the skin for liquid crystal emulsion was significantly higher from 1 h to 6 h compared with that of O/W emulsion and the transepidermal water loss on the skin was significantly superior in skin moisture loss suppression from 30 min to 4 h compared with that of O/W emulsion. The results of skin permeation using glycyrrhizic acid, the result of skin permeation amount of liquid crystal emulsion for 24 h was $64.58{\mu}g/cm^2$, that of O/W emulsion was $37.07{\mu}g/cm^2$, that of butylene glycol solution was $41.05{\mu}g/cm^2$. Hourly permeability results, it is showed that skin penetration effect of the liquid crystal emulsion increases after 8 h. These results suggest that liquid crystal emulsions are effective for skin moisturizing effect and function as potential efficacy ingredient delivery system for the transdermal delivery.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.403-412
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• 2016

The tight junction, one of Intercellular junctions, performs a variety of biological functions by bonding adjacent cells, including the barrier function to control the movement of the electrolyte and water. Recent studies have revealed that unusual expression of tight junction-related genes have been shown to be related in cancer development and progression. Recently, there are many reports that control of tight junction proteins expression is closely related to the skin moisture. In this study, we are focusing on the regulating mechanism of tight junction-associated genes by the steviol and its derivatives. Steviol, used as a sweetner, is known to chemical compound isolated from stevia plant. The MTS (3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-5-(3-carboxymethoxyphenyl)-2-(4-sulfophenyl)-2H-tetrazolium, inner salt) assay was carried out in HaCaT cells (human keratinocyte cell line) in order to determine the cytotoxicity. As a result, while steviol showing cytotoxicity from $250{\mu}M$, steviol derivatives are not cytotoxic more than $250{\mu}M$ concentration. We have observed a change in the tight junction protein via quantitative real-time PCR. Claudin 8 among tight junction proteins is only significantly reduced up to 30% in the presence of steviol. In addition, cell migration was inhibited by steviol, not by stevioside and rebaudioside. Finally, we could observe that steviol, not stevioside and rebaudioside, is able to increase the skin barrier permeability through the transepithelial electric resistance (TEER) measurements. These results suggest that the steviol and its derivatives are specifically acts on the tight junction related gene expression, but steviol derivatives are more suitable as a cosmetic material.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.183-189
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• 2013

This study was performed to investigate the whitening effects of Lactobacillus rhamnosus in addition to its antioxidative activities. The cytotoxicity of the Lactobacillus rhamnosus was 7.6% at 10.0% (v/v) concentration. Its cytotoxicity was lower than 3.2% of Lactobacillus casei when adding the same concentration. Lactobacillus rhamnosus exhibited high antioxidative activities at 14.9% of DPPH radical scavenging activity, and a lower reducing power was measured. Lactobacillus casei exhibited relatively lower antioxidative activities at 13.4%. The tyrosinase inhibition activity of Lactobacillus rhamnosus was observed at 31.3% when adding 10.0% (v/v), as compared to 17.7% for Lactobacillus casei. Lactobacillus rhamnosus demonstrated strong inhibition activity for melanin synthesis at 58.6% when adding 10.0% (v/v), while Lactobacillus casei increased to 80.6%. It was also observed that the high antioxidative activities of Lactobacillus rhamnosus were strongly correlated to whitening activities, due to the inhibition of both tyrosinase and melanin synthesis. These results support the expanded use of lactic acid bacteria as a functional bioresources in the cosmetics industry.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.36-43
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• 2020

The extracts of antioxidants, torreya nucifera and alphinia henryi, were tested for properties as a fragrance material and applied to a mask pack formulation to study the fragrance properties. The DPPH antioxidant test of hot water and ethanol extract confirmed that the ethanol extract had superior antioxidant efficacy compared to the hot water extract. It was confirmed that the optimal mixing ratio as a raw material for the mask pack of torreya nucifera and alphinia henryi was 3:7 as a result of the DPPH antioxidant test. As a result of the cytotoxicity test, the cell viability was good as it showed 103.30% at 0.5 ug/mL, 104.25% at 1 ug/mL, 102.56% at 5 ug/mL, and 99.17% at 10 ug/mL compared to the untreated group. As a result of the patch test on the mask pack formulation, the skin irritation index of 0.02 was judged as a non-irritation product in the skin irritation primary stimulation human application test. In the evaluation of skin moisturizing, it showed a significant increase rate of 19.178% compared to before the sample adaptation. Evaluation of the change over time in the sheet mask pack formulation confirmed the formulation stability without viscosity and pH change for 12 weeks at low temperature(4℃), room temperature(25℃), and high temperature(45℃).