• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.40-79
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• 1998

기초화장품의 연구 방향은 환경 요인과 심리적 요인의 다양화에 따라 단순 기능에서 고기능을 추구하며 기능의 세분화 방향으로 변화되고 있다. 피부 노화 현상에 대한 관심이 점점 높아짐에 따라 최근 유전자 레벨에서의 연구, 피부대사에 대한 연구 등의 활발하며 특히 피부 미백에 대한 관점은 서양에서 조차 관심의 대상이 되고 있다. 본 논문에서는 최근의 노화 방지제 개발을 중심으로 한 피부 노화 화장품, 분자 모델적 측면에서 본 피부 미백제 개발등과 최근 연구되는 계면활성제 Free 등의 화장품 제재를 중심으로 기초 화장품 영역의 향후 연구 발전 방향을 논의하고자 한다.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.169-184
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• 2003

비타민 C(L-ascorbic acid)는 강한 항산화성, 피부에 대한 높은 안전성으로 인해 피부의 노화방지, 미백, 주름 개선 등의 기능성 화장품 원료로써 많은 관심이 있는 물질이지만, 화학적으로 매우 불안정하여 쉽게 산화, 분해되므로 화장품 제형으로 포함시키는데 곤란한 문제가 있다. 본 연구에서는 비타민 C 의 안정성에 대한 단점을 보완하기 위하여 생체 및 피부 친화성이 우수한 무기물을 사용하여 비타민 C 를 캡슐화(encapsulation)한 분말상의 유-무기 복합물질 Vitabrid-C 를 합성하고, 이를 함유하는 피부 미백용 트윈케익 파우더를 개발하였다. 우선 Vitabrid-C 는 수용액상에서 비타민 C 를 수화된 산화아연(ZnO)으로 1 차 캡슐화하여 나노입자를 형성시키고, 그 표면을 실리카(silica)나노 입자로 한번 더 코팅하여 표면의 껍질이 다공특성을 갖는 분말을 제조함으로써 완성하였다. 이렇게 제조된 Vitabrid-C는 순수 비타민 C 에 비해 우수한 안정성을 보였으며, 캡슐 내 비타민 C 가 서서히 방출되는 서방특성을 발휘하였다. 또한 Vitabrid-C는 입자의 크기가 미세하고 균일하여 트윈케익 처방에 용이하게 적용할 수 있었다. Vitabrid-C와 순수 비타민 C의 생화학적 동등성에 대한 평가는 tyrosinase 억제능(L-DOPA oxidase 억제) 및 DPPH항산화 실험을 통하여 비교하였다. 트윈 케익 처방에 적용된 Vitabrid-C 에서 비타민 C 의 피부 투과경향을 Franz diffusion cell 법을 이용하여 확인하였다 또한 Vitabrid-C가 포함된 트윈케익을 건강한 피부를 가진 25 세 이상되는 여성의 전박에 색소 침착을 유도한 후 피부색 개선 효과 평가를 통해 임상적 효능을 평가하였다.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.253-258
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• 2010

Until now, evaluating the efficacy of brightening mainly depends on total reflective light measurement. For example, SHV (Saturation, Hue, Value), $L^*$ $a^*$ $b^*$ (CIELAB color space system) color space system was used and lightness and saturation changes were chosen as major parameters for evaluating brightening effect. However, those parameters were calculated from total reflective light on the skin and it is hard to evaluate perceptive efficacy such as luminescence, and glossy. In this research, we applied new method for estimating change of luminescence of skin by using 'Lumiscan' which uses polarized light for detecting surface and inside reflective light independently. We also tested 15 different parameters for finding correlations between luminescence and those parameters. As a results, our 2 different brightening products showed 5 ~ 9 % increase of luminescence at 4 and 8 weeks. And we also found that skin roughness (-28 %), melanin index (-17 %), redness (-7 %), hydration (15 %), and lightness (6 %) were related to luminescence of skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.91-96
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• 2011

Deficiency of collagen regeneration, denaturalization of fibers, increased melanin synthesis and reactive oxygen species are important factors inducing deterioration of healthy skin function. They induce freckles and decrease in skin elasticity. Vitamin C, vitamin A and their derivatives have been used as cosmetic ingredients for improvement of these problems but they have various problems. We have been developing the various derivatives of these ingredients. In this study, we investigated whitening effect of 3-o-cetyl-L-ascorbic acid (VCCE), a new vitamin C derivative. The VCCE inhibited melanogenesis in a dose dependent manner(44 % at $20\;{\mu}g/mL $) and tyrosinase expression. For 8 weeks, we also investigated skin brightening effect of VCCE on pigmented spots in UV-irradiated human skin. In results, VCCE showed a statistically significant skin whitening effect by mechanical and visual evaluation. Taken together, our findings suggest that the VCCE has potential benefits as an active ingredient for whitening cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.279-285
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• 2015

Hyperpigmentation on face is a highly anxiety-producing symptom, especially for women from the aspect of beauty. Pigmentation of the skin is related to the amount of melanin that provides protection against UV radiation. In vivo reflectance confocal microscopy is a non-invasive imaging tool allowing visualization of the skin without tissue alteration, by placing a microscopy directly on the living skin. The aim of this study was to develop the new evaluation method of whitening effects using in vivo reflectance confocal microscopy and to validate other instruments for measuring skin colors, and UV-induced hyperpigmentation was elicited on the inside skin of the forearm. It suggested that the new method for whitening effects using the confocal microscopy was useful to evaluate the de-pigmentation products and to easy for understanding to customers.

• Journal of Acupuncture Research
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.91-98
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• 2009

목적 : 상지, 상백피, 상엽은 모두 뽕나무에서 유래한 것으로 한의학에서 수천 년 동안 사용되어왔다. 최근 이들의 미백효능이 발견되면서 더욱 주목을 받고 있다. 피부의 멜라닌 색소 침착은 자선에 대한 정상적인 방어기전이다. 그러나 비정상적인 색소침착은 심각한 미용적 문제를 가져온다. 최근 약침이 피부 미백에 이용되고 있다. 또한 발효와 열처리는 미백화장료 가공의 최신 경향이다. 이 연구에서는 상지, 상백피, 상엽 약침액이 발효와 열처리 후에 피부 미백에 어떠한 영향을 미치는지 알아보고자 한다. 방법 : 상지, 상백피, 상엽을 각각 4개의 그룹으로 나누었다. (1) 비발효, 비열처리, (2) 비발효, 열처리, (3) 발효, 비열처리, (4) 발효, 열처리한 그룹들에 타이로시나제 활성 및 도파 산화 활성, 그리고 멜라닌 함량을 측정하여 비교하였다. 결과 : 타이로시나제 활성 및 도파 산화 활성, 그리고 멜라닌 함량에 있어서, 발효, 열처리가 대체로 효과가 있는 것으로 나타났다. 특히 멜라닌 함량에 있어서 발효, 열처리한 군이 대조군에 비해 유의성 있는 감소를 보였다. 결론 : 주근깨, 흑색종, 간반(肝斑) 등 비정상적인 색소 침착 질환을 치료하기 위한 상지, 상백피, 상엽 약침액 제조에 있어, 발효 및 열처리 방식을 적용하면 보다 나은 미백효능을 발휘할 수 있을 것으로 생각된다.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.151-158
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• 2009

We found that silymarin exhibited the inhibitory effect on melanogenesis in a spontaneously immortalized mouse melanocyte cell line, Mel-Ab. Silymarin is a standardized extract obtained from the dried seeds of milk thistle (Silybum marianum Gaertn.). Silymarin significantly prevented melanin production in a dose-dependent manner with an $IC_{50}$ value of 28.2 ${\mu}g/mL$ without effects on cell viability. Also, silymarin inhibited tyrosinase activity in melanocyte, while it did not affect the catalytic activity of cell-free tyrosinase. Furthermore, Western blot analysis indicated that silymarin decreased the expression of tyrosinase protein. Silybin A/B and isosilybin A/B were also able to inhibit melanin production and tyrosinase expression in protein level. Double blind study on the clinical efficacy of a cream containing 2 % silymarin showed that silymarin have a significant skin whitening effect. Therefore, this study suggests that silymarin may be useful as a natural skin whitening agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.225-234
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to confirm the skin whitening and UV absorption effects of bioconverted Beta vulagaris (BBE) using Lactiplantibacillus plantarum SM4, and the effects were evaluated by measuring total polyphenol content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), radical elimination activity (RSA), and tyrosinase activity inhibition (TAI). TPC and TFC of BBE were 25.0 mg GAE/g DM and 8.05 mg QE/g DM, which were 1.3 and 1.1 times higher than hot-water extract (HWE) respectively. RSA, an indicator of antioxidant activity, and TAI, an indicator of skin-whitening effect, were 36.8%, and 68.6%, respectively, 1.1 and 1.2 times higher than that of HWE. UVA and UVB absorption of BBE were 21.4 and 87.6%, which was 1.4 and 1.7 times higher than that of HWE respectively. When main substances of BBE were analyzed using LC-MS/MS, kaempferol and isorhamnetin, a type of polyphenols known to have high antioxidant and skin-whitening effects, were identified. As a results, BBE is expected to be used as a functional cosmetic material as it has excellent antioxidant, skin whitening, and UV absorption properties.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.417-423
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• 2015

Oil-in-water(o/w) nanoemulsions were prepared in the system of water/Span 80-Tween 80/long-chain paraffin oil via PIC method. With the increase of preparation temperature from 30 oC to 80 oC, the diameter of emulsion droplets decreased from 150 nm to 40 nm. By varying the HLB of mixed surfactants, we found that there was an optimum HLB around 13.0~14.0 corresponding to the minimum droplet size. The size of emulsion droplets increased upon increasing the ratio of oil/emulsifying agent. At $f{\leq}0.15$, the size of nanoemulsions could be kept constant more than 2 months. The increase in preparation temperature makes it possible for producing monodisperse nanoemulsions. Once the nanoemulsion is produced, the stability against Ostwald ripening is outstanding due to the extremely low solubility of the liquid paraffin oil in the continuous phase.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.297-304
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• 2021

In this study, we prepared a pigmented skin model, KeraSkin-M^TM for the in vitro evaluation of whitening agents. For the purpose of complementing the existing mono-layer cell culture testing method, KeraSkin-M^TM was produced through the co-culture of human skin-derived keratinocytes and melanocytes. The efficacy of four well-known whitening agents (arbutin, ascorbic acid, kojic acid, niacinamide) was evaluated in KeraSkin-M^TM in order to assess its usefulness in assessing whitening efficacy. As a result, it was possible to observe additional details such as the distribution of melanin granules and melanin capping in each skin layer through KeraSkin-M^TM, which was previously difficult to assess in the traditional 2D cell culture system. In addition, quantification through image analysis of KeraSkin-M^TM allowed for a statistical analysis of the whitening effects. These results suggest that the KeraSkin-M^TM can be used as a new evaluation method of evaluating whitening efficacy, as well as complement the traditional total melanin content and tyrosinase inhibition assays.