• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.215-219
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• 2014

In Korean Cosmetic Act, four uses of functional cosmetics are recognized: skin whitening, anti-wrinkle, UV protection or suntan. Cosmeceuticals, one of the functional cosmetics, have been specifically developed for medical and cosmetic benefits. However, the uses of cosmeceuticals in patent applications are not limited to those of functional cosmetics, and the number is increasing with variety of medical use claims such as anti-inflammatory, prevention of hair loss, or obesity in cosmeceutical patent applications. Since some of the cosmeceutical use claims are not clearly distinguished from medical use claims in pharmaceuticals, there has been a controversy over the extent of granting patents regarding the medical use of cosmeceuticals. In this article, we have investigated the range of medical uses in patented claims of functional cosmetics, summarized examiners' views and discussed the examination practice of cosmetic-related inventions in the United States, Europe, and Japan.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.74-79
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• 2016

Eruca sativa (known as rocket plant) is a member of the Brassicaceae, which is considered an important chemo-preventive plant family. Although Eruca sativa has positive biological effects such as antioxidant and renal protective activities, the effect of the Eruca sativa extract as a therapeutic agent for skin whitening has not been reported. In this study, we investigated the applicability of the extract of Eruca sativa as a functional materials by examining the its physiological activities. The Eruca sativa extract showed low cytotoxicity against murine melanoma B16F10 cells. At concentrations (below 100 mg/L) that showed none or little cytotoxicity, the Eruca sativa extract showed high DPPH radical scavenging activity (ID50, 17.60 mg/L). In addition, the Eruca sativa extract inhibited tyrosinase activity ($ID_{50}$, 132.54 mg/L) and decreased melanin content ($ID_{50}$, 158.90 mg/L). Finally, the treatment with the Eruca sativa extract suppressed the protein expression of tyrosinase in a concentration-dependent manner. These findings suggested that the Eruca sativa extract inhibited melanin synthesis by not only suppressing intracellular tyrosinase expression but also directly inhibiting tyrosinase activity. Therefore, these results indicate that the Eruca sativa extract may be an effective material for functional cosmetics such as skin whitening materials.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.61 no.3
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• pp.283-290
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• 2018

In this study, we verified the 1-1-diphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl radical scavenge, 2,2'-azinobis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) radical scavenge, elastase, tyrosinase inhibitory effect by using the solvent fractions of Maekmoondong-tang hot water extract. As a result, the ethyl acetate fraction (MW-EA) showed the highest inhibitory activity. In cell-based assays, MW-EA treatment confirmed a 34% ($100{\mu}g/mL$) efficacy in reactive oxygen species inhibitory activity, and at the same concentration, MMPs showed more than 50% inhibition and tyrosinase inhibited 25% ($50{\mu}g/mL$). Therefore Maekmoondong-tang is considered high development potential as a material to improve the skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.329-343
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• 2004

Recently, our society has prominently raised the desire to well-being life since not only our economical situations are better than before, but environmental pollution become serious. In well-being trends, the natural or nature-related products are also issued on their usages as bio-/raw materials for our living industries, such as cosmetics, household goods, and so on. Especially, various materials which comes from medicinal plants has been discovered their physiological properties and validated their functions. Thus, they have been subjected to several processes, including extraction, isolation and concentration, and popularly introduced to cosmetic industry. In these reasons, a variety of cosmetic Products using natural materials has been developed, which are focused on whitening, wrinkle improvement, and anti-aging. In this report, we present a brief review of the function and classification of natural products interested in until now, and introduce the natural materials for cosmetics having physiological activities on skin, including Fructan, Acrea extract, Portulaca extract, Licorce extract, Dandelion extract, Ulmus extract, SC-glucan, Arbutin, and Sophora extract.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.22 no.10
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• pp.1420-1427
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• 2012

We investigated the physiological activity and solvent-partitioned fractions of methanol extracts from the green seaweed Sargassum fulvellum. The methanol extract from S. fulvellum was sequentially fractionated with n-hexane (SFMH), methanol (SFMM), buthanol (SFMB), and water (SFMA). We investigated the antioxidant activities of solvent fractions from S. fulvellum by using 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging capacity and an SOD activity assay. DPPH radical scavenging capacity of SFMM was 79.5% at 10 mg/ml. SOD activity of SFMM was 79.9% at 10 mg/ml. Nitrite scavenging activities of solvent fractions from S. fulvellum were investigated under different pH conditions and showed the most remarkable effect at pH 1.2. In particular, the activity of SFMB was higher than the other fractions. ADH activity and ALDH activity of SFMM were 177.0% and 167.4% at 10 mg/ml, respectively. ${\alpha}$-Glucosidase inhibitory activity of SFMH increased in a dose-dependent manner and was about 94.1% at 2 mg/ml. Elastase inhibitory activity was 93.2% at 2 mg/ml. These results revealed that S. fulvellum extracts have strong antioxidant and alcohol dehydrogenase activities and ${\alpha}$-glucosidase inhibitory activity, suggesting that S. fulvellum extracts have potential as a source of natural products for health and beauty.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.554-562
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• 2021

Lactobacillus plantarum SM4, a strain producing β-glucosidase, was isolated from kimchi and fermented with white Taraxacum coreanum to enhance the production of bioactive compounds. The total polyphenol content(TPC), total flavonoid content(TFC), radical scavenging activity(RSA), tyrosinase inhibitory activities(TIA), and collagenase inhibitory activities(CIA) were measured to evaluate the skin whitening and anti-wrinkle effects of the fermented product. The TPC of fermented white T. coreanum was 41.8±0.26 mg GAE/g DW, which was approximately two times higher than the hot-water extraction of 21.4±0.67 mg GAE/g DW. RSA, an indicator of antioxidant activity, was 65.6±4.7% in fermentation, which is four times higher than that of the hot-water extract. TAI and CAI, which are indicators of the whitening and anti-wrinkle effects, were 87.9±4.73% and 66.7±3.48%, respectively, which were 2.4 and 1.5 times higher than those of hot-water extraction. When comparing the UVA(320 nm) protection effects of fermented and hot-water extraction, the fermented white T. coreanum showed higher protection with an absorption rate of 64.7% and 15.2%, respectively. The white T. coreanum fermented product showed higher bioactive properties and improved skin whitening, anti-wrinkle, and UV protection effects through the production of β-glucosidase from L. plantarum SM4.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.27 no.9
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• pp.975-985
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• 2017

To investigate the beneficial effects of an agar gel mask (AGM) on UV-induced photoaging, SKH-1 hairless mice were treated with a topical application of AGM and an AGM dipped in essence (AGMdE). The mice were divided into an no radiation group, UV + AGM, UV + AGMdE, and UV + vehicle (PBS) treatment groups. Alterations in skin wrinkles, skin phenotype, histological structures, oxidative status, and toxicity were then evaluated during 4 weeks of exposure. The topical application of AGM and AGMdE inhibited wrinkle formation, suppressed the erythema index, prevented transepidermal water loss, and enhanced skin hydration. In addition, epidermal thickness recovered to a similar level as that in the no irradiation group in the UV + AGM and UV + AGMdE treatment groups compared with the UV + vehicle (distilled water) group. Furthermore, the expression levels of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and tyrosinase were reduced in the UV + AGM and UV + AGMdE treatment groups, although the highest level varied. Moreover, superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity was significantly lower in the UV + AGM and UV + AGMdE treatment groups as compared with the UV + vehicle group. No significant alterations induced by most toxic compounds were measured in serum biochemical markers and liver and kidney histological features of the UV + AGM and UV + AGMdE treatment groups. These results suggest that AGM may protect against skin aging by regulating skin morphology, histopathological structures, and oxidative conditions.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.3
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• pp.177-186
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• 2013

Skin dermal fibroblast is the major collagen-producing cell type in human skin. As aging process continues in human skin, collagen production is reduced and fragmentation is increased, which is initiated by matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1). This imbalance of collagen homeostasis impairs the structure and function of dermal collagenous extracellular matrix (ECM), thereby promoting skin aging. Cysteine-rich protein 61 (CCN1), a member of the CCN family, negatively regulates collagen homeostasis in primary human skin dermal fibroblast cells. It is known in aging fibroblast cells that elevated CCN1 expression substantially reduces type I procollagen and concurrently increases MMP-1, which initiates fibrillar collagen degradation. And proliferation rate of aging fibroblast cells is reduced compared to the pre-aging fibroblast cells. In this study, we confirmed that the replicative senescence dermal fibroblast cells increased the expression levels of MMP-1 and decreased the production of type I procollagen. Our results also showed that the replicative senescence dermal fibroblast cells increased in the expression of CCN1 and decreased in the proliferation rate. Hydrolyzed Ulva pertusa extracts are the materials to improve photo-aging by reducing the expression of MMP-1 that was increased by ultraviolet and by promoting the synthesis of new collagen from fibroblast cells. In this study, we also investigated the hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract to see whether it inhibits CCN1 protein expression in the senescence fibroblasts. Results showed that the hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract inhibited the expression of MMP-1 and increased the production of type I procollagen in the aging skin fibroblast cells cultured. In addition, the proteins that regulate collagen homeostasis CCN1 expression were greatly reduced. The hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract increased the proliferation rate of the aging fibroblast cells. These results suggest that replicative senescent fibroblast cells may be used in the study of cosmetic ingredients as a model of the natural aging. In conclusion, the hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract can be used in anti-wrinkle functional cosmetic material to improve the natural aging skin care as well as photo-aging.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.251-256
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• 2012

Stilbenes are known as antioxidants and some of them demonstrate anti-pigmentation activity. The purpose of the present study was to investigate whether two stilbene compounds produced by biotransformation of the extract of $Morus$ $alba$ root show skin irritation and sensitization. In skin irritation test, 1% oxyresveratrol (OXY), and 5% OXY, and 1% oxyresveratrol-3-$O$-glucoside (OXY-3) showed a P.I.I score of 0, 0.04, and 0, respectively. Accordingly, the two stilbenes were evaluated to be virtually 'non-irritant' materials. In a skin sensitization study by GPMT, 1% OXY, 5% OXY, and 1% OXY-3 did not cause edema and erythema at 24 h and 48 h after topical application and exhibited a sensitization score of 0 and a rate of 0%. Consequently, it was confirmed that OXY and OXY-3 had no contact allergic sensitization in GPMT. Therefore, OXY and OXY-3 might be potential candidates as skin-whitening agents without posing any serious side effects.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.191-198
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• 2009

We have tested the stability of paeoniflorin, a new cosmetic ingredient, extracted from the roots of Paeoniae lactiflora. The stability of aqueous paeoniflorin solution at pH 3, 5 and 7 varied by adding buffer solution was tested at $0^{\circ}C,\;25^{\circ}C,\;40^{\circ}C,\;and\;65^{\circ}C$. The test was performed with or without UV light. The solution of paeoniflorin was stable at pH 3.0, however, the recovery rate of paeoniflorin was 40% at pH 7.0. The stability of paeoniflorin solution was decreased as the pH of paeoniflorin solution was increased by pH 7.0. The effect of storage temperature of paeoniflorin solution shows that the stability of paeoniflorin solution was decreased as the temperature was increased. The stability of paeoniflorin was rather good under UV light than the condition given above $40^{\circ}C$. The stability of paeoniflorin in W/O emulsions shows similar pattern to that of aqueous solution.