• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.77-88
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of visual effects by variations in the width of pleats and the length of the accordion pleats skirt. The stimuli are 21 samples: 7 variations of the width of pleats and 3 variations of the length of skirt. The data has been obtained from 43 fashion design majors. The data has been analyzed by Factor Analysis, Anova, Scheffe's Test and the MCA method. The results of the study are as follows: The visual effects by the number of pleats and the length of skirt are composed of 2 factors: verticality and thickness of lower body, shape of abdomen. In these factors, verticality and thickness of lower body factor is estimated by the most important factor. The accordion pleats skirt makes the lower body look longer when the width of the pleats is wider, and helps the calf and leg look thinner. Also, the waist looks more slender and thin. As the skirt gets longer, one looks taller, and legs look longer and thinner. The shape of abdomen is no difference according to the width of pleats. As the skirt gets longer, the waist looks more slender and thinner. The interaction of visual effect according to the changes in width of pleats and skirt length of accordion pleats skirt is not shown, and the skirt length has more effect than the width of pleats does in verticality and width of lower body factor. The width of pleats has more effect than the skirt length does in shape of abdomen factor.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.81-92
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of visual effects by variations in the number of pleats and the length of the pleats skirt. The stimuli are 18 samples: 6 variations of the number of pleats and 3 variations of the length of skirt. The data has been obtained from 54 fashion design majors. The data has been analyzed by Factor Analysis, Anova, Scheffe's Test and the MCA method. The results of the study are as follows: The visual effects by the number of pleats and the length of skirt are composed of 3 factors : vertical of lower body, curves of lower body and shape abdomen. In these factors, vertical factor is estimated by the most important factor. The visual effect is positive when the number of pleats is added and the length of skirt is getting shorter. The short length of skirt and more pleats make legs and calves looked long and slim. The interaction effects between the number of pleats and the length of skirt do not appear. In the vertical of low body factor, the length of skirt is more effective than the number of pleats, and in the curve of low body factor, the number of pleats has more effects than the length of the skirt. In the shape of abdomen, the number of pleats and length of skirt have similar influences.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.89-103
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of accordion pleats shown in 10/11 S/S London, Paris, New York collection and evaluate the differences of visual image by variations in the width of pleats and the length of the accordion pleats skirt. The stimuli are 21 samples: 7 variations of the width of pleats and 3 variations of the length of skirt. The data has been obtained from 43 fashion design majors. The data has been analyzed by Factor Analysis, Anova, Scheffe's Test. The results of the study are as follows: Accordion pleats was first introduced by Marriano Fortuny. He published delphos dress by creating silk pleats manufacturing technique and it was recognized as the best pleats work. Since then, pleats with synthetic fiber characteristics were used by many fashion designers. Accordion pleats were used in various items including one-peice, skirt and pants in collection of 2010 and 2011. The design of accordion pleats skirt used different width of pleats, length of the skirt and materials. The visual image by the width of pleats and the length of skirt are composed of 3 factors : dearness, attractiveness and elegance. In these factors, dearness factor is estimated by the most important factor. The accordion p1eats skirt is most attractive and dear when the width of pleats is the shortest, 1/8", and the width of 4/8" and 5/8" follows. The accordion pleats skirt is most attractive and dear when the length of skirt is similar to that of mini-skirt, and the skirt was estimated to be elegant as the skirt gets longer. When the length of skirt is in between, the skirts were estimated to be ambiguous in all visual images. The interaction effect of visual image according to the changes in width of pleats and skirt length of accordion pleats skirt was seemed to have significant differences by factors, and the main effect had great differences in all factors.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.163-171
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• 2008

This article aims to evaluate the visual effects and images according to the changes in the width of pleats of accordion pleats skirt. I altered the width of the pleats to seven categories in changes of 0.5cm, 0.7cm, l.0cm, 1.3cm, 2.0cm, 2.5cm and 3.0cm. For the visual evaluation, seven stimuli had been placed in mannequins, and had been estimated by experts in fashion design. For the visual evaluation according to changes in the width of pleats of according pleats skirt. I used 11 pairs of items to find their visual effects, and 17 pairs of adjectives to measure the visual images. Those stimuli and adjectives had been randomly given to evaluators and had been evaluated by the seven-point Likert type scale. The data have been analyzed by frequency, factor analysis, ANOVA, Scheffes test and correlation analysis. According to factor analysis of the visual effects of the accordion pleats skirt, the result was classified into three factors: the verticality of the lower body, flexuosity of the lower body, and shape of the abdomen. According to factor analysis of the visual image of the accordion pleats skirt, the result was classified into the following three factors: activity, attraction and neatness. In visual effects, the verticality of the lower body had been assessed as the most important factor of all. The visual effect was positive when the width of pleats had been narrowed. In visual image, activity had been assessed as the most important factor. In the case of accordion pleats skirt, as the width of pleats became wider, it had a stronger image in being active and casual.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.8
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• pp.933-945
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• 2011

This research proposes a pattern design method for 24 pleated skirts in order to develop an automatic draft program for pleated skirts that will enhance fit and enable mass production. The research method and results are outlined as follow. 1. Three-dimensional body measurements were conducted on 30 randomly selected women in their 20s. By using 34 body measurement items and 6 types of calculations among the items, the items required in the designing of an original pleated skirt were extracted. They were then interpreted through correlation analysis, variance analysis, a t-test, linear regression analysis and multiple regression analysis. 2. An extra amount was added to the waist measurement and external capsule measurement according to the number of times the pleats coincided and the thickness of the fabric by the degree of polymerization of the horizontal cross section (the test of this research: 0.518mm). The extra amount of waist measurement was 3.6cm while the hip measurement was 4.3cm larger than the hip measurement combined with the external capsule measurement and the extra amount. 3. Based on the ${\pm}$standard deviation/2 as the average of the difference between the external capsule measurement and waist measurement, the subjects were classified into 3 somatotypes. Somatotype 1 presented an average total length of waist darts of 23.6cm while that of somatotype 2 was 26.2cm and that of somatotype 3 was 30.2cm. It has been confirmed that there is a significant difference among somatotypes in the total length of waist darts from the front center to the front side and the total length of waist darts from the side to the back center in terms of the average amount of waist darts for every 12 parts on the WL.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.57-73
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• 2012

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of pleats design through the analysis of modern female fashion as they appear in the 'Collections' from '09 A/W to '12 S/S. Data collection of 1027 was done through the review of 'pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of three cities; Milan, New York, Paris. Along with the qualitative interpretation of pleats design, statistical analysis of frequency and ${\chi}^2$-test were completed for data analysis. The main findings were as follows; 1. The five types of pleats design were founded in the order of accordion, knife, box, inverted, and sunburst pleats. The frequency and ratio of pleats design occurency showed significant difference between collections. 2. There were significant difference between the types of pleats and their line characteristics of thickness, continuity, length, direction. = Thin fabrics with delicate fine folds were mainly appeared in accordion and sunburst pleats. On the other hand, midium thickness fabrics were used for knife, box & inverted pleats, however, the different images were projected according to the width and the number of folds, characteristics of fabrics and textures. = In all the type of pleats but sunburst, continuity line was appeared the most. The discontinuous lines were appeared the most in the layered types and, sometimes, at some construction lines to add some decorative details or design variations. = The long line were the most frequently appeared in long one-pieces or long skirts of knife, accordion, sunburst pleats. While, the shorter lines showed the most frequently in box and inverted pleats, which mainly used for skirts or the lower part of one-piece. = For the line directions, the vertical lines were the most frequently appeared, and followed by mixed and diagonal line. In mixed or diagonal lines, same type of pleat was repeated in one design. For diagonal lines, one direction was mainly used, however, the symmetrical arrangements or repeated diagonal pleats in various directions also used. In mixed lines, the type of one or two diagonal and one vertical line was the most frequently appeared.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.127-138
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• 2009

This study is about the analysis on symbolic meaning and kunstwollen of Issey Miyake's art works which is influenced by various external factors such as social and cultural background, nationality and philosophy. Especially, this research focused on 'Pleats Please Issey Miyake' and 'A Piece of Cloth' which are the core of his works. The most important concept of Issey Miyake's works is the relationship of human body and a piece of cloth. Miyake's clothes has provided the time and the space where inspires the vitality into wearer. He accomplishes the most perfect beauty through incomplete beauty of cloth. Miyake wants to express the emotion of the human being through his clothes and tries to make special code between creator, wearer and viewer. Fashion is accomplished in connection with human body, not exists just as 'clothes'. Fashion has valued as an art which expresses the ideology and the sentiment of human being most directly. Issey Miyake who has tried to express human life and emotion has promoted fashion as an important part of art. Miyake is accepting and delivering the history and culture, expressing and communicating empathy, and combining the different fields harmoniously.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Noise and Vibration Engineering Conference
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• 2014.10a
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• pp.457-460
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• 2014

Precession coefficient is defined by the ratio of the angular rate or rotational angle of the standing wave formed in an elastic resonator with respect to that of the platform. In this paper the precession of a hemispherical resonator due to Coriolis' effect is studied through Rayleigh-Ritz's method and Lagrangian Mechanics when the resonator undergoes Rayleigh's mode deformation. The calculation result was compared with studies by other researchers.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.457-467
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• 2006

The following research compares two mostly-used apparel systems that are used in colleges of Korea, Gerber and PAD, by analyzing advantages and disadvantages of their Dart, Tuck and Pleats-related functions in pattern construction process. The results are the following: First, regarding transformation methods, Gerber system was able to use pivot method, while PAD system was able to use both pivot and slash method. As for movement, distribution, synthesis, folding, producing additional Dart function, the PAD system was not able to synthesize more than two Darts, and only showed differences for other functions. On the other hand, the diamond-shape Dart and diagonal Dart can be produced only in PAD system, while none of curvy shaped Dart can be produced in both systems. Second, as for pattern outer line connection capability, which is a Dart automatic transformation function, both systems showed unnatural shapes and need for correction. Third, when constructing according to the type of Tuck, we could distribute multiple Darts at a time with PAD system, while with Gerber system, distribution into multiple Darts at a time was impossible at all. Fourth, when constructing according to the contour of Pleats, Gerber system made it possible to make construction of multiple lines and box/inverted Pleats with just one order, but PAD system required repetitive tasks, which remains room for enhancement in regard to such inefficiency.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.80-91
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to examine how he successfully connected his ideas of fashion design for art with the commerciality without a conflict about for 40 years. It is expected that this study will be a precedent in the aspect of the symmetry between artistry and commercialization in Issey Miyake's works. We will examine Issey Miyake's idea of fashion design and its development for the commercialization since 1970s that he started to give shape to his ideas in the fashion works to exactly commercialize in the market. 1. Re-creation of tradition(a piece of cloth): throughout the 1970s, Miyake continued to experiment with a variety of Eastern design elements. The elements of Japanese or oriental tradition made him to be at the very center of supreme of the world of fashion. He took advantages of his identity, and developed the tradition for mass produce. 2. Design for mass(Pleats Please): Miyake decided to make clothes for the people, not only for the top class of the society. This thought developed the designs for the mass, which were functional, universal for the modem buyer, and accessible to a wide market. He realized his ideal by the medium of pleats, which were made through industrial processes, while he tried variously the aspect of formative of the pleats in the collections. His designs concept is summarized by the industrial product design and anonymous design. 3. Innovation of manufacturing system(A-POC): Miyake in 1999 developed A-POC. A-POC is used modern computers in conjunction with traditional technology. A-POC does not make only a new cloth but also makes a new manufacturing system of clothes.