• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.252-258
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• 1999

The aims of this study is to classify the lower somatotype of adult women and appearance analysis on the shape of flare skirts by using the image processing. Also We have made skirts in order to analyze the various types of appearance of flare skirts by using the image processing. The subjects for our wear test lower somatotype, who were controlled in their waist, abdomen and hip shapes. The flare skirts used for wear test were 112 types(combinated 14 fabric type and 8 lower somatotype). The effect of lower somatotype on the shape of flare skirts was determined by the horizontally hem line section shape and the silhouette of flare skirts with image processing. The data were analyzed by using analysis of variance and Turkey, Duncan multiple range test. The results obtained are summarized as follows: It is shown that the fabric weight elongation differs in fabrics properties, in direction of textures. The shape horizontal section of flare skirt hem line has differed with the number of nodes, wave-height of nodes and breadth of silhouette by fabrics properties and lower somatotype. It is noticed that the breadth of flare skirts by the silhouette has high correlation with the drape ability of fabrics and lower somatotype. Results for our flare skirts show changes in amplitude and mean with fabrics, somatotype. Therefore we can say that gray-level histograms are correlated with changes in appearance, differences in drape spacing and related fabric properties and their somatotype.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.127-137
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of visual image by variations in the volume of flare and the length of flare skirt. The stimuli are 12 samples: 4 variations of volume of flare and 3 variations of the length of skirt. The data has been obtained from 181 fashion design majors. The data has been analyzed by Factor Analysis, ANOVA, Scheffe's Test and the MCA method. The results of the study are as follows: The visual image by the volume of flare and the length of flare skirt are composed of 4 factors : matureness, attractiveness, stiffness and softness, moderateness. In these factors, matureness is estimated by the most important factor. When the volume of flare is $180^{\circ}$, the visual images are shown to be better. As the skirt gets shorter, it has more vivid and attractive image. And as the skirt gets longer, it looks older and gentle but not too plain or ordinary. The volume of flare and skirt length interact with each other in matureness and attractiveness factors. But the volume of flare affects more in stiffness and softness and moderateness factors than skirt length.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.27-35
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• 2006

We studied the 3D simulating shapes of the flared skirt using NARCIS-Drape Simulation software made in Korea D&M FT. The experimental conditions were made of three types of cuttings (lengthwise, crosswise, 45 bias) and polyester fabrics for flared skirt (light, medium, heavy) and different simulating repetitions (1, 2, ${\cdots}$, 9, 10 times). We accomplished some experimental data on the 3D simulating shapes of the flared skirt made by different conditions. The 3D simulation shapes of the flared skirts were gradually getting stabilized from 5 repetitions. And the length of skirts and the width and depth of hems diminished lower by degrees as the simulating repetitions. It is considered that the simulating repetition for the flared skirt was appropriate in the range of 8 to 10 times. But it was not reasonably showed that the difference in the drape of the flared skirt was made by different cuttings and fabrics.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.77-89
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• 2013

This study investigated the formation of silhouette and hemline shape of knit flare skirts according to the properties of knit material through virtual clothing with a 3D virtual clothing system called i-Designer of Technoa, thus building a database of the property data of knit material to reduce the number of sample making steps repeated and implemented several times in the process of clothes making. The results would help to estimate a silhouette in advance, offer assistance to the development of original knit wear, and explore ways to provide basic data for the development of the knit industry of the nation. The investigator made 12 kinds of experimental clothes to the angles(width of skirt: $90^{\circ}$ and $180^{\circ}$), gauge(7G, 12G, and 15G), and grain directions(wale and bias direction) of experimental clothes for virtual clothing. The dynamic characteristics of knit skirt samples according to each gauge were measured with the KES-FB system. Draper shapes were analyzed with the sectional shape data of hemline based on i-Designer. As for the measurements of the sectional shape of hemline and the formation of silhouette, the number of nodes, the average height of node mountains and valleys, and the hemline width right and left and before and after increased at the angle of $180^{\circ}$ than $90^{\circ}$. As gauges multiplied, the number of nodes, and silhouette angle dropping. When considering grain directions, the number of nodes and silhouette index increased in the wale direction at the angle of $90^{\circ}$ with the number of nodes and silhouette angle increasing in the wale direction at the angle of $180^{\circ}$.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.35-46
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to modify a Flared Skirt for women according to the somatotype of lower body. The subjects for the wear test were 3 students, who were in mean${\pm}1{\sigma}$ each somatotype. As seen in the study, it was found out that there was a difference in three dimensional shape of the lower part of the body even in the group of whom the body heights, measured by Martin's system, are alike. Due to such a difference in the three dimensional shape of the lower part of the body, it was found out to be a difference in drapability of the flare skirts. In order to have better fitness of the lower part of the body and to raise the visual effect, therefore, it is suggested that there need to develop a new model of the flare skirts considering three dimensional shape of the lower part of the body for the wearer or to take complementary measures for each body shape in case of applying traditional model.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.628-636
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to investigate the general distribution trend of drapery according to the material of flare skirt and the body size. 100% polyester and 100% rayon fabrics were chosen to compare the effect on the material type. The results from this study were as follows. (1) Both materials generally had similar trend of drapery (2) The difference of material influenced the shape and the amount of drapery. The amount of drapery in polyester was more than the one in rayon. (3) Rody size didn't significantly influence the shape of grapery. So it is concluded that material type is more important variable than the body size for the drapery.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.139-148
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• 1998

This study was performed to develop the flare skirt pattern in CAD system by each of the textile's test. 1 made 28 flare skirts(360$^{\circ}$, length of 60 cm, straight gram at front ST side seam, 28 kind of textiles) and found the changes of skirt length. And I measured thickness, weight, density, drapability and bending in these textiles. Therefore, It analyzed these data and found it regression.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.103-119
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• 2011

This study set out to analyze the solid shapes of knit flared skirts, which are best represented in a 3-dimensional shape for all knit skirts, according to the seamed and seamless production method and to estimate the silhouettes of knit flared skirts based on the results. It also aimed to help with the introduction and spread of seamless weaving by revising and supplementing potential problems and provide findings that would be put to active use as basic data, thus contributing to the development of original knitwear and offering fundamental materials for the development of the knitting industry. A number of experimental knit flared skirts were made according to skirt angle ($90^{\circ}$ and $180^{\circ}$), gauge (7G, 12G, and 15G), and grain (bias, wale, and radial), including 12 kinds of seamed knit flared skirts and 6 kinds of seamless knit flared skirts. Using a three-dimensional shape measurement system, the investigator measured the cross-sectional shapes of their hemlines. The SPSS 12 Version program was used for statistical processing, and descriptive statistics such as mean and standard deviation were used to compare the seamed and seamless knit flared skirts in the measurements (measurement items) of their solid shapes according to the width, gauges, and grain directions. The central grain direction of seamless knit flared skirts was in a radial form and even hemlines, thus presenting a beautiful appearance and solid shape. The 3-dimensional shapes show that seamless knit flared skirts are superior to seamed ones. The research findings are expected to open a door for Korea's knitting industry to quickly respond to small quantity batch production and additional orders.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.465-475
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• 2010

For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. Samples differed from each other by skirt angles($90^{\circ}$, $180^{\circ}$), gauges(7G, 12G, 15G), and grain directions(bias direction, wale direction, and radial direction). After measuring the mechanical properties of various gauges on the seamless knitting machine, I compared shape of the knitted flare skirt through subjective evaluation on appearances. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, Duncan-test, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The subjective evaluation on appearances of knitted flare skirts showed the following: In case of $90^{\circ}$ skirt, the seamless skirt showed a much higher score in every gauge expect that of the cut and sew 12G, and silhouette of 15G wale direction. In case of the $180^{\circ}$ skirt, the seamless type showed a much higher score in every item over the cut and sew expect the silhouette part of 7G wale direction.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.472-483
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyse the effects of knit samples' mechanical properties on changes of skirt length of knit flared skirt, and to compare it to the knitting method of a seamless knitted flare skirt. So, I compared the appearance and 3-dimensional shape of a seamless knitted flare skirt with those of a fully cut knit flared skirt. For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The results are as follows: The result of the evaluation of knit samples' mechanical properties by the KES-FB system showed that elongation decreased as gauge increased and course direction was greatest among grain directions. The length change after wearing the knitted flare skirts appeared wholly equal to the seamless knitted, compared with the cut and sew. The change was biggest at $180^{\circ}$, 7G of the cut and sew. In grain direction, bias cut showed more than 1.2cm of length change. As the weight and thickness increased, the length changes become larger. The regression analysis indicated that the greatest contributive variables on the length changes were elongation, weight, and thickness.