• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
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• 복식문화학회 2002년도 정기총회 및 춘계학술발표대회
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• pp.6-9
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• 2002

• 한국패션뷰티학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국패션뷰티학회 2004년도 춘계학술대회
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• pp.11-12
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• 2004

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.162-170
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• 2016

자비에 돌란의 모성과 성적(性的) 정체성에 천착하는 작품들의 영화적 시도와 실험은 어렵거나 낯설지만은 않다. 기존 영화의 양식과 형식을 해체하거나 파괴하기보다는 우리가 기억 하는 친숙한 영화나 시, 패션, 음악, 미술 등의 상호텍스트성 기법인 패스티시와 자기반영성을 통해 소통하고 있기 때문이다. 또한, 그는 작품에서 거듭 반복되는 포스트모더니즘의 특징들이라 할 수 있는 탈(脫) 장르, 탈 주체, 대중문화에 대한 관심, 과거에 대한 향수의 재현으로 말을 건넨다. 본 연구에서는 일종의 유행처럼 지나갔다고 여겨진 포스트모더니즘의 현재를 재인식하고자 하고 자비에 돌란의 영화의 포스트 모더니즘적 특징과 반복적으로 사용된 모티프를 분석하고자 한다. 또한, 그의 작품에서 등장하는 인물들을 통해 소수자들에 대한 감독의 관심과 알레고리적 분석을 시도하고자 한다.

• 복식
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• 제60권2호
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• pp.81-98
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• 2010

This study aims to examine the subjects of cultural power of the modernism and post modernism eras, and analyze how the change of power and subjects influenced fashion throughout the history from the microscopic perspective, and thus to explain the social relationship of the fashion phenomenon. The study findings can be summarized as follows. First, as the post modernism era which was being formed centering around Europe that was pursuing Haute Couture and formal masculine suits ended and the post modernism era started, America became the center of the world power, and the American equalitarianism and growing wealth among the general public spread over the world, and as a result, the ready-made clothes were propagated over the world, and various subcultures came to have multi-national tendency in the New Media society. Second, in the modernism era, the high class, whites, males, and the pre-existing powerful class were the subjects of cultural power. Although this changed in the post modernism era, as some of power moved from the high class to the middle class, the economically affluent general public, still the western world, males, and whites held the center of power. However, later, females, youths, the third world nations, and so on emerged as minor power, and when the New Media society started, the structure developed so that everyone can share cultural power.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.6-14
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine how the Chanel Collection, a famous brand acknowledged for it's modern style, was influenced by post-modernism. The scope of research includes initial concentration on 1920's boyish style of Chanel as well as its relative influence on modernism. Secondly, the research concentrates on Chanel Collections that Lagerfeld's designs were best represented. The results were as follows: The tendency to eroticism for fashion business, tendency to retro-fashion, tendency to popularization of sub-cultural group's fashion, tendency to no-match-mix, tendency to androgynous style, tendency to emphasis on ornaments in clothing.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.925-940
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the major influence of postmodernism on 20th century fashion. Due to its characteristic traits like pluralism, indeterminacy, and immanence, it can be said that postmodernism in fashion manifests itself in an overlapped and duplicated style. The conceptual side has to do with such various 20th century thoughts as decanonization, deconstruction, populism, and in fashion it is presented as subcultural style, syncretic style, and post-feminist style. The stylistic side of postmodernism in fashion also has to do with fragmentation, hybridity, stress on performance and participation, carnivalization, deconstructive turn, and it is presented as hybrid expression, deconstructive technique, performance, and so on. In the latter part of the 20th century in which postmodernism blossoms in various fields, fashion also participates in the current of the times, together with the rapid stylistic turn, the co-existence of various trends, and the experimental or avant-garde new trials. However, it should be said that all of these tendencies mean not so much blurring of the boundaries between styles as developmental mixture of styles coming from juxtaposition after fully realizing the boundaries of contrast and combination.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.147-158
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• 1999

The Purpose of this study is to comprehend the form of Post-modernism in 1980~90 Fashion by comparing to the representative form of Modernism. For empirical data, photographs and critics about fashion were collected from Vogue fashion magazine to differentiate from other studies which is mostly analysed from collection. The results are as follows: The Modernism in fashion can be epitomized simple and functional form as a rational costume and Post-modern fashion expresses all sorts of emotion as a react of rational theme of modernism with manners of anti-formal pluralism such as pastiche, parody and Kitsch. The fashion in 1980-90s in Vogue expressed as follow :1) The Postmodernism is well exploited around 1990 and costrained by traditional and classical Mode. 2) The other main character of Postmodernism, romantic eroticism is broadly expressed with material and slim curved body conscious line. 3) The Modernism and Postmodernism coexisted in the end of 1990, in more matured format.

• 복식
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• 제63권8호
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• pp.14-26
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze Jacqueline Kennedy and Michelle Obama's fashion style from a perspective of modernism and postmodernism. The method utilized in this study was first, to examine the properties of modernism and postmodernism. Next, we explored the types of role performance of the first ladies and the application of their fashion as an aid to their roles through the precedents of the research concerning modernism and postmodernism. The results of the study are as follows. First, there was a trend of formalism and anti-formalism. Jacqueline Kennedy made her public appearances wearing a formal dress in order to express the first lady's authoritarian figure of restrained elegance. The fashion of the first lady aspired to formalism. Meanwhile, Michelle Obama followed more of a free style by eschewing the typical formality of the first lady. She created diverse styles utilizing a variety of items, which were not interrupted by form or by using heterogeneous items. Second, there is a trend of elitism and populism. While Jacqueline Kennedy preferred only haute couture designers' costume in order to show the prestige and dignity of the upper class, Michelle Obama patronized unknown designers' clothing or mid-level casual brand goods that the public favors in order to interact with the public through her fashion. Third, while modernism regards totality or unity to be important, postmodernism puts an emphasis on the eclecticism by pursuing complexity and diversity through the deconstruction of an indigenous genre. In case of Jacqueline Kennedy, this tendency featured monotone clothing color, which presented a unified full set dress that excluded decoration. Michelle Obama, in contrast, mixed and matched formal dresses and a casual cardigan or felicitously mixed luxury brand or low to middle priced brand goods.

• 복식
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• 제45권
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• pp.179-199
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• 1999

Indeterminancy is one of the thought systems which explains all things with not 'either-or' but 'both-and' the conditions and qualities of human identities and inner state. A view of the world of Dionisos of Nietzsche's and the character of Manneristic trend which has resolved the sense of alienation of men by paradoxic expression has succeeded to romanticism surrealism and postmodernism. 1. Cross-dressing has increased under contemporary conditions. There also have been various cross-dressing phenomena in the past but it appears strongly now that it would destroy the cultural stereotypes and give rise to the cultural insecurities in contemporary conditions. 2. The indeterminancy of status that is wealth versus poverty impacts on variations of contemporary dress. This has been represented by neglecting traditional code which is related to wealth in costume by conversion of the symbols of wealth and poverty as disguise with moderation simplicity and additionally poverty image instead of ostentation. 3. In the cultural aspect that is mother culture/ subculture the author has investigated black street fashion which has newly become visible. The black street fashion is wide spread in black popular music such as jazz Rhythm & Blues Reggae and Rap which is subculture against white. The external values of indeterminancy in fashion are n대-manneristic tendencies as deformation eclectic friction and irrational structure and graffiti method. The inner values by indeterminant expression in fashion are irony and paradox grotesque satire and amusement.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.287-299
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• 2002

Post-modernism exists with different shapes in overall cultural phenomena. Among the creative methods of composing post-modernism, there are representation, parody, plural coding, trans avant-garde etc. Summing up the influence of creative method of post-modernism on modem fashion led to the following results. 1. The phenomenon appears that value and valuelessness are easily reversed, and things with historical and traditional meanings are being ignored. 2. The boundary between higher culture and public culture is being disorganized, and mixed imitation phenomenon ignoring the differences between male and female is emerging 3. The mental and historial aspects in fashion pattern are highly thought of and the trend to understand human body from the various angles emerges. 4. In the consumer-oriented society, it appears in the form of meanings to achieve the self-achievement in individual life, to express one's idea and desire in the esthetical point of views. 5. It shows that through arranging the striking things and the distorted things, it takes the compromised method of re-appreciating the existing ideas. The phenomena in the post-modernism occurring in fashion design forced the concept of the uniformed existing fashion to be changed, creating a various fashions. That can just be called the dehumanization trend in the era of post-modernism, which is the most important formative feature in modern fashion.