• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
• /
• v.3 no.1
• /
• pp.9-15
• /
• 1998

Hourly meteorological data from a marine buoy ($34^{\circ}49'00"N$, $125^{\circ}46'00"E$) operated by the Korean Meteorological Agency were obtained from July, 1996 to February, 1997. From the data air-sea heat fluxes and marine meteorological characteristics around the area are estimated. The maximum outflux of sensible heat from the sea surface occurred in January (monthly mean value, 12.6 $Wm^{-2}$ and the maximum influx to the sea occurred in July (monthly mean value, 5.5 $Wm^{-2}$). This means that the sea is heated in summer while it loses its heat in winter, and that there is inequality between the absolute values of the two seasons. The outflux of the maximum latent heat occurred in November (monthly mean value, 86.5 $Wm^{-2}$) and reach a value of 300 $Wm^{-2}$, and the maximum influx occurred in July (monthly mean value, 4.6 $Wm^{-2}$). Big difference is shown in their absolute values when the wind becomes strong. The outgoing latent heat flux reaches its maximum in autumn, and it maintains the high value through the whole winter. According to the wave data analysis, the significant wave heights are larger in winter than in summer. The periods of the significant waves are 4~6 sec. In winter, waves propagated from north and northeast are dominant because of the winter monsoon, while in summer waves from south, southwest, and west are relatively frequent.

• Water for future
• /
• v.21 no.4
• /
• pp.389-397
• /
• 1988

For determination of the design wves at the seven selected sites in the South Sea, a method of hindcasting the past annual largest significant waves from the records of both the wind speed at the nearby weather stations and the weather charts of typhoons are utilized. The design significant waves in deep water are determined through the extremal probability analysis for three major wave directions(SW, S, SE) at each site from the annual extremal series of wave heights. Design significant wave heights with the return period of 100 years ranged between 4.6m and 8.8m with the wave period ranging between 8.2 seconds and 12.9 seconds. Through the analysis of weather maps, both the fetches for the wind directions SW-SE along the South Coast and the relationship between the wind speed at sea and the wind speed at the nearby land weather stations for seasonal winds are determined. The wind speed at sea are found to be 0.8-0.9 times the wind speed at the land stations for $U_1$>15m/s. The ratio of the duration-averaged wind speed to the maximum wind speed varies between 0.7-0.9 as a negative exponential function for the duration ranging 2< t< 13 hours.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.23 no.2
• /
• pp.154-162
• /
• 2011

A reliability analysis model is developed for evaluating the crest freeboard of vertical breakwaters based on the concepts of maximum overtopping volume of individual wave. A reliability function is formulated by defining the margin of admissible overtopping volume and maximum overtopping volume that is depend on the number of overtopping waves, dimensionless crest freeboard, and mean overtopping discharge. In addition, Level III MCS technique is straightforwardly suggested by which the related empirical parameters to reliability function can be considered to be random variables with the wide range of different uncertainties. It can be possible to calculate the probabilities of failure according to the relative crest freeboard with the variations of the incident wave directions, the structural types of vertical breakwaters, and admissible overtopping volumes in conditions of the long and short crested-waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.28 no.6
• /
• pp.350-360
• /
• 2016

In order to investigate characteristics of waves and currents varying in space in the Haeundae coast in winter, numerical simulations by using a 2-D spectral wave model(SWAN) and 2-DH hydrodynamic model(Delft3D) were carried out in this study. The results of numerical simulations were validated with the field data collected at several different locations in the study area in February, 2014. From the numerical simulations, it was found that waves and currents were significantly influenced in terms of direction and magnitude by bottom topography characterized by straggling rock crops covered with sea grasses. The coupling of SWAN and Delft3D models also revealed that alongshore currents directing from the east to the west were developed in the nearshore, due to the influence of larger waves with the main incident direction from the east.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
• /
• v.16 no.2
• /
• pp.175-183
• /
• 2010

To understand the variation of macro benthos community according to the installation of structure and topographic placement in the shellfish farm on tidal flat, the practical example of the tidal shellfish growing area at Namsung-ri Goheung was observed. The results of the research for the field observation were summarized as follows. (1) The ground gradient of the shellfish farm was very flat below about $1^{\circ}$. The shellfish farm ground took the shape of $\sqcup$ from the shoreline to the place of 150 m seawards, and the shape of $\sqcap$ from there to the low tide line. During ebb tide, the $\sqcup$ shape ground stored the sea water, and the $\sqcap$ shape ground was supposed to act as the effect factor to leak slowly or to prevent the outflow. (2) The oyster shell bag or the type of riprap wall as the boundary in the shellfish farm was classified into five types. The air exposure time and flooding time were 181 and 434 minutes, respectively. (3) In the numerical experiment, the deep-sea water wave coming in the study area had 0.5 m of maximum wave height to show the very stable conditions and the wave direction pattern of S-direction was dominant at Naro great ridge, and SE, SSW and S-direction were distributed strongly around the shellfish farm. (4) By the grain size analysis, the sediment around tidal flat consisted of gravel 0.00~5.81(average 1.70)%, sand 14.15~18.39(average 13.23)%, silt 27.59~47.15(average 30.84)% and clay 35.79~55.73(average 36.19)%, and the sediment type was divided into (g)M(lightly gravelly mud), sM(sandy mud) and gM(gravelly mud) by Folk's diagram. (5) The macro benthos community survey conducted in this site in January, 2010 showed that 1 species of Mollusca, 8 species of Polychaeta and 2 species of Crustacea appeared, and 11 species occupying over 1% of total abundance were dominant.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
• /
• v.23 no.1
• /
• pp.1-19
• /
• 2018

In order to compare significant wave height (SWH) data from multi-satellites (GFO, Jason-1, Envisat, Jason-2, Cryosat-2, SARAL) and SWH measurements from Ieodo Ocean Research Station (IORS), we constructed a 12 year matchup database between satellite and IORS measurements from December 2004 to May 2016. The satellite SWH showed a root mean square error (RMSE) of about 0.34 m and a positive bias of 0.17 m with respect to the IORS wave height. The satellite data and IORS wave height data did not show any specific seasonal variations or interannual variability, which confirmed the consistency of satellite data. The effect of the wind field on the difference of the SWH data between satellite and IORS was investigated. As a result, a similar result was observed in which a positive biases of about 0.17 m occurred on all satellites. In order to understand the effects of topography and the influence of the construction structures of IORS on the SWH differences, we investigated the directional dependency of differences of wave height, however, no statistically significant characteristics of the differences were revealed. As a result of analyzing the characteristics of the error as a function of the distance between the satellite and the IORS, the biases are almost constant about 0.14 m regardless of the distance. By contrast, the amplitude of the SWH differences, the maximum value minus the minimum value at a given distance range, was found to increase linearly as the distance was increased. On the other hand, as a result of the accuracy evaluation of the satellite SWH from the Donghae marine meteorological buoy of Korea Meteorological Administration, the satellite SWH presented a relatively small RMSE of about 0.27 m and no specific characteristics of bias such as the validation results at IORS. In this paper, we propose a conversion formula to correct the significant wave data of IORS with the satellite SWH data. In addition, this study emphasizes that the reliability of data should be prioritized to be extensively utilized and presents specific methods and strategies in order to upgrade the IORS as an international world-wide marine observation site.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.13 no.3
• /
• pp.209-229
• /
• 2001

Simultaneous field measurements of short-period and long-period waves were made at five stations inside or outside Okkye Harbor, which is located in the east coast of Korea. Based on the measured data, spacial and temporal variations of the long-period wave energy were examined. Three smoothing methods were examined for the spectral estimates: fixed interval averaging method, incremental interval averaging method, and moving averaging method. It was shown that a proper smoothing method should be chosen depending on the period of first resonant mode and the length of data being used. By comparing the results obtained using the long-term data with those obtained using two-day data, we showed that it is necessary to analyze the data of calm seas and storm seas separately. The Helmholtz resonant period in Okkye Harbor was found to be about 9.6 minutes with its relative amplification ratio of 9 to 10, and local amplifications were apparent at the periods of 1.2 to 1.3 minutes and 0.7 minute. During calm seas, both at the harbor entrance and inside the harbor the energy of the waves of 9 minutes or longer period was larger than the infra-gravity wave energy by more than 100 times. However, during storm seas the energy level was very high all over the period band, and local amplification was larger than that during calm seas by more than 100 times, especially inside the harbor, Finally it was shown that the energies of the Helmholtz resonant mode and the infra-gravity waves of 1 to 2 minutes are proportional to the storm wave height.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.342-354
• /
• 2008

Some statistical characteristics of deepwater waves along the Korean coast have been investigated using various sources of wave measurement and hindcasting data. For very large waves comparable to design waves, it is recommended to use the average value of the empirical formulas proposed by Shore Protection Manual in 1977 and by Goda in 2003 for the relation between significant wave height and period. The standard deviation of significant wave periods non-dimensionalized with respect to the mean value for a certain significant wave height varies between 0.04 and 0.21 with a typical value of 0.1 depending upon different regions and different ranges of significant wave heights. The mean and standard deviation of the principal deepwater wave direction are presented at the 106 coastal grid points along the Korean coast. For relatively large waves, the probability density function of the directional spreading parameter $s_{max}$ is expressed as a lognormal distribution. The most suitable frequency spectrum in the Korean coast is the TMA spectrum. The probability density function of the peak enhancement factor $\gamma$ is also expressed as a lognormal distribution, with its mean value of 2.94, which is close to the value in the North Sea.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.26 no.3
• /
• pp.131-139
• /
• 2014

Infra-gravity waves (IGWs) with a period of 1~3 minutes are a factor that directly influences the motion analysis of moored ships inside a harbor and longshore sediment transport analysis. If significant levels of IGWs from far seas are transferred to a harbor and amplified, they may cause downtime of large ships and induce economic loss. In this study, transfer characteristics of the IGWs intruding from outside to inside Pohang New Harbor were analyzed using statistical analysis and transfer function of wave data measured at both outside and inside the harbor for around 5 years. Transfer characteristic analysis was limited to events where IGWs had wave heights above 0.1 m. The wave height distribution of inside the harbor was similar to that of outside the harbor, while the wave period variance of the former was larger than that of the latter. The parameters of the transfer function was optimally estimated according to each event. The estimated average RMS error of the wave height inside the harbor was around 0.013 m. The estimated parameters had a strong correlation with the linear combination information of IGW wave height, period, and direction (R = 0.95). The transfer function suggested in this study can quickly and easily estimate information on IGWs inside the harbor using IGW information predicted beforehand, and is expected to reduce damage due to unexpected restrictions on harbor usage.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.30 no.5
• /
• pp.223-233
• /
• 2018

The predictability of winter storm waves using KMA's operational wind forecasts has been studied to predict wind waves and swells in the East coast of Korea using SWAN. The nested model were employed along the East coast of Korea to simulate the wave transformation in the coastal area and wave dissipation term of whitecapping is optimized to improve swell prediction accuracy. In this study, KMA's operational meteorological models (RDAPS and LDAPS) are used as input wind fields. In order to evaluate model accuracy, we also simulate wind waves and swells using ECMWF reanalysis and KIOST WRF wind and they are compared with the KMA's operational wave model and the wave measurement data on the offshore and onshore stations. As a result, it has the lowest RMSE and the highest correlation coefficient in the onshore when the input wind fields are KMA's operational meteorological forecasts. In the offshore, all of the simulate results shows good agreements with similar error statistics. It means that it is very feasible to use SWAN model with the modified whitecapping factor and KMA's operational meteorological forecasts for predicting the wind waves and swells in the East coast of Korea.