• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.6
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• pp.139-164
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• 2002

The objective of this Paper was to identify the internal and external symbols of Punks, and to assess the significance of punk style giving an inspiration to many high fashion designers. For this objective. comprehension on widely discussed idea of punk, furthermore grasping the internal and external form by inquiring historically punk look, and importantly looking into new ideas pursued by punk fashion by studying traits of punk image in 1980's and after are done. Punk in the latter half of the 70's was anti-fashion expressed for the young of working class to rebel against the established generation. At first some of the fashion was popularized by the young who imitated pop stars under the specific economy of Britain, and others with movement of hippie Punk is aesthetics extremism which neglects traditionalism in the past but pursues newness. It denied traditional way of expression and principles of aesthetics but created newness. Punk look was symbolized as poor look. grotesque, androgynous, black, graffiti, and bricolage. And the internal meanings of these symbols are ego-screaming, expression of nihilism, resistance, irony and ridicule, search for hedonism. The punk phenomenon continues today. Some teens still cling to the complete look. whether they have punks' idea and value or not. Diverse elements of punk style play a major role in the current trend of fashion and a source of the fresh inspiration for the high fashion designers. Punk style is truly the story of a fad that turned to fashion.

• Trans-
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• v.8
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• pp.1-28
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• 2020

This study examines musical characteristics of so-called 'Hongdae Sound' as a historic musical trend by comparing with 'US 8^th Army Sound' and British 'London Punk'. Hongdae Sound refers to the musical trend that was formed with independent bands and musicians who mostly performed live in the club called 'Drug' in Hongdae area, and voluntarily adopted minor musical sensitivity and indie spirit of 'post-punk rock' genre. But as an industrial standpoint the superficial identity of 'indie' interferes with academic approach when analysing musical aspects of Hongdae Sound. Therefore it is necessary to rearrange its characteristics as the musical trend based on regional classification in order to fully appreciate its status in history of Korean popular music. US 8^th Army Sound refers to the musical trend that was played within the live stages in US military bases in Korea. Many hired Korean musicians for those shows were able to learn the current popular musical trend in the States, and to spread those to the general public outside the bases. The industrial system of the Army Sound was very similar to that of K-Pop, but when it comes to leading the newest musical trend of 'rock-n-roll', it had more resemblance to that of Hongdae Sound. London punk was the back-to-basic form of pure rock that was armed with social angst and rebel, indie spirit. Its primal motto was 'do-it-yourself', and Hongdae Sound mostly followed its industrial, musical and spiritual paths. London punk was short-lived because it abandoned its indie spirits and became absorbed to the mainstream. But Hongdae sound maintain its longevity by maintaining the spirit and truthfulness of indie, while endlessly experimenting with new trends.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.781-795
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is not only to widen and deepen the understanding of external environments of hairstyle but also to provide the basis of understanding and perspicacity as to the hairstyle which will be created under the influence of new music by contemplating distinctions between Glam Fashion and Punk Fashion of 1970s and by comparing and analyzing distinctions between Glam Hairstyle and Punk Hair Style of 1970s. As the method of this study, first of all four common factors, which are resistance, androgynous, beauty of ugliness and pursuit of pleasure through persona, were able to be ed from both Glam Fashion and Punk Fashion of 1970s, and then by using that factors as analyzing instrumental frame, the above two hairstyles were compared and analyzed through photographic materials in this study. According to the results of comparing and analyzing two hairstyles above, in Glam Hairstyle, the androgynous character is the most remarkable distinction. They tried to overturn the gender role by challenging the traditional color and form of hairstyle. In funk Hairstyle, the resistance is the most prominent distinction. They expressed their group identity resisting a pre-existing generation by putting on threatened and aggressive hairstyle.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.112-126
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• 2019

The objective of this study was to investigate visual elements of steampunk fashion and provide base line data for innovative fashion design ideas and products. We investigated design characteristics of steampunk fashion style shown in 3 movies and 3 animations. Based on the investigation, the research drew intrinsic value of steampunk fashion from three brands 'Vivienne Westwood', 'Dolce & Gabbana' and 'Alexander McQueen'. As the research analyzed movies and animations revealing steampunk style, various characteristics were found and assorted into similar categories. Subcategories of steampunk fashion are pluralism, rebellion and heterogeneity. The followings are result of analyzing three designer collection listed above. First, steampunk fashion made by designers used various color and materials to express multi-pluralistic(multiplicity) characteristic. Second, fashion style in collections revealed artistic and experimental design. This adventurous and innovative characteristic is categorized as rebellion feature. Third, steampunk fashion style used mix-match of unexpected materials or unbalanced silhouette to create a complete fashion style by combining styles in duplicity which could've lack harmony. Intrinsic value of steampunk is defined as graffiti of 19th century's science technology and utopia spirit. Longing for past and fantasy was expressed into fashion. Steampunk fashion wants to escape reality and tries to recreate history of the past faded away with technological development. It defines steampunk as freedom, deviation and fantastical utopia in positive point of view. Furthermore, aesthetic implication of steampunk style found in this research can make a boundary of steampunk style clear and become reference for future researches regarding steampunk fashion.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.123-130
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to understand Skull Images in fashion trends and Skull Image Top Design for Female Teenagers. The methods of this study are an academic literature review as well as practical study through actual case studies about. The subjects of the study were 53 Female Teenagers who lived in Chuncheon. Data were collected during March, 2009. Statistical analyses used in the study were frequency. An adolescent period, they are rebellious, sensual and syntonic inclination. These days, Lots of Female Teenagers want unique fashion for herself and select Skull Image clothing. But they want fit and pretty style not big-look. In this study, I designed seven pieces of Top blouse while applying Skull Image, an important image of Hip-hop and Punk fashion, and the concepts of the continuance theory to them. This study will make a contribution to the designing of Top for Female Teenagers through reinterpretation of the Hip-hop and Punk fashion. In addition, there are practicable and unique Top design for Female Teenagers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.2 no.1 s.1
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• pp.34-45
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• 2004

Hair styles which independently coexist by transcending the time and space under the environment of highly developed information and communication technology of recent years, were analyzed. Moreover the concerned trends of art which influenced on these styles were introduced in this study. Through IT based information exchange produced new hair styles which have the technological images. The characteristics of these hair styles are investigated also. For the examination of yearly trends, hair styles in fashion collections of Yves Saint Larent during 1962 to 1999 were examined and classified. The results show that time variated trends are appeared in this period. For the analysis of the trends of hair styles featuring technological images, hair styles in fashion collection of Christian Dior, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Jean Paul Gaultier and Chanel in the early 2000s are quoted.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.242-253
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• 2005

The objective of this research is to identify and examine the punk hair styles which, with their various, rather vague names, help to describe the twentieth century subordinate culture or subculture and also their place today as one of the mainstream male hair trends. The scope of this research will stretch to include also: North-east and around that areas native Americans'hair styles which, are thought to have strong links with the Punk hair tend. The focus of this research will remain with the so-called Mohican or Mohawk hair styles(collectively referred to as Punk styles), which have originated mainly from native American warrions residing in North-east and South-east region of the United States. This study clarified a few questions in doubt concerning the origin of cockcomb hairstyle. Firstly, the cockcomb hairstyle known to represent punk hairstyle was influenced the American Indian's Roach style. Secondly, since Roach style is referred as Mohawk tribe's hairstyle in some refernces, the view of seeing cockcomb hairstyle as a Mohawk style is considered more persuasive. Thirdly, although Roach style was a usual hairstyle through North-east and South-east region of the United States, the people in South-east region did Roach hair style because of the North-east's influences. Lastly alike the Punkers had several kinds of cockcomb hairstyle. American Indians'Roach style also differed in shape concerning of their regions and their kindred. In addition, the reason why the most common term to refer punk hairstyle became Mohican is considered as that the film 'Last Mohican' has influenced on it. That film can appeal their history and play a good role of mediator to let the public know better about themselves, 'Mohican' naturally became the name of the specific hair style.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.150-164
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• 2021

This study analyzed the punk style shown in the movie Sid and Nancy (1986), based on a true story. The purpose of this study was to prove that the styles of the main characters had some discriminatory mode as an anti-fashion with not only the value system of the subculture but also the diverse cultural codes applied, revealing their identity. The scope of this study covered the 1970s when Sid died while a member of the Sex Pistols, but was limited to the analysis of Sid and Nancy's costumes. As theoretical background, this study reviewed the preceding studies, specialty books, movie-related sites and their postings, and on-line news reports. To analyze the movie costumes, relevant scenes on the DVD were captured, and thereby, the scenes were categorized per character and style but a performance scene was categorized Sid and Nancy as same punky wedding style because of intention spirituality to marriage by director, and thereupon, 17-cut images were used for the analysis of main characters' styles. Sid's style consisted primarily of black leather jackets, symbolic T-shirts, and jeans, whereas Nancy's style implied a punk style with added fetish styles. Even in the same punk style, their identities were symbolized through bricolage. Through this, subculture styles, were able to confirm that in addition to the value system of subculture, discriminatory modes as anti-fashion with various cultural codes played a role in revealing their identity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.1 no.1 s.1
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• pp.11-26
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• 2003

It is an important means of expressing oneself and is affected by the social and cultural environment, too. People are creating another new lower culture, it's Sub Culture, that is, their own unique new fashion through the coordination status of a lower culture and its components to reveal the visual symbol of such garments and body decorations most clearly. The Punk formed as an reaction to 1960's hippie appeared as the most unpleasant image to the established generations with their ultimate resisting action and new aesthetic-consciousness. Their coordination by the use of the disorder and stimulative tool which gives abhorrence appears again as Cyber Punk being influenced by optical art and multimedia in '90s. It can be seen that the form of lower culture mentioned above became a storehouse of new fashion creation through the most nuclear role of lower culture and the unique characteristic coordination by age and that each lower culture fashion can become a style icon of new fashion through free coordination.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.71-85
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• 2003

In the turn of the century, fashion designers have not just drawn upon one or two subcultural styles but have extracted elements from many subcultures to use in a single collection. In true postmodern style these are freely combined with historical, cross-cultural and futuristic influences to create new fashions. The process could be explained by bubble-up phenomenon, retroism. pastiche and pursuit of pleasure. In the course of illustrating subcultural styles transformed into mainstream fashion, the case of Punk was studied as a turning point of modernist and postmodern period which have been introduced by high fashion designers since the birth in 1976. The following cases have continued to appear entering upon the third millennium and the aesthetic value of those can be summarized as ambiguity, eclecticism, and deconstruction. In other words. the energy and authenticity of Punk has been considered to be desirable in high fashion, however designers focus on clothing and adornment rather than ideology and lifestyle. The aesthetic property of subcultural style defeats the established notion of standardized fashion and stimulates new consciousness. which allows a room to be diversified and subdivided.