• 패션비즈니스
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.150-164
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• 2021

This study analyzed the punk style shown in the movie Sid and Nancy (1986), based on a true story. The purpose of this study was to prove that the styles of the main characters had some discriminatory mode as an anti-fashion with not only the value system of the subculture but also the diverse cultural codes applied, revealing their identity. The scope of this study covered the 1970s when Sid died while a member of the Sex Pistols, but was limited to the analysis of Sid and Nancy's costumes. As theoretical background, this study reviewed the preceding studies, specialty books, movie-related sites and their postings, and on-line news reports. To analyze the movie costumes, relevant scenes on the DVD were captured, and thereby, the scenes were categorized per character and style but a performance scene was categorized Sid and Nancy as same punky wedding style because of intention spirituality to marriage by director, and thereupon, 17-cut images were used for the analysis of main characters' styles. Sid's style consisted primarily of black leather jackets, symbolic T-shirts, and jeans, whereas Nancy's style implied a punk style with added fetish styles. Even in the same punk style, their identities were symbolized through bricolage. Through this, subculture styles, were able to confirm that in addition to the value system of subculture, discriminatory modes as anti-fashion with various cultural codes played a role in revealing their identity.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.781-795
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is not only to widen and deepen the understanding of external environments of hairstyle but also to provide the basis of understanding and perspicacity as to the hairstyle which will be created under the influence of new music by contemplating distinctions between Glam Fashion and Punk Fashion of 1970s and by comparing and analyzing distinctions between Glam Hairstyle and Punk Hair Style of 1970s. As the method of this study, first of all four common factors, which are resistance, androgynous, beauty of ugliness and pursuit of pleasure through persona, were able to be ed from both Glam Fashion and Punk Fashion of 1970s, and then by using that factors as analyzing instrumental frame, the above two hairstyles were compared and analyzed through photographic materials in this study. According to the results of comparing and analyzing two hairstyles above, in Glam Hairstyle, the androgynous character is the most remarkable distinction. They tried to overturn the gender role by challenging the traditional color and form of hairstyle. In funk Hairstyle, the resistance is the most prominent distinction. They expressed their group identity resisting a pre-existing generation by putting on threatened and aggressive hairstyle.

• 복식
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• 제52권6호
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• pp.139-164
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• 2002

The objective of this Paper was to identify the internal and external symbols of Punks, and to assess the significance of punk style giving an inspiration to many high fashion designers. For this objective. comprehension on widely discussed idea of punk, furthermore grasping the internal and external form by inquiring historically punk look, and importantly looking into new ideas pursued by punk fashion by studying traits of punk image in 1980's and after are done. Punk in the latter half of the 70's was anti-fashion expressed for the young of working class to rebel against the established generation. At first some of the fashion was popularized by the young who imitated pop stars under the specific economy of Britain, and others with movement of hippie Punk is aesthetics extremism which neglects traditionalism in the past but pursues newness. It denied traditional way of expression and principles of aesthetics but created newness. Punk look was symbolized as poor look. grotesque, androgynous, black, graffiti, and bricolage. And the internal meanings of these symbols are ego-screaming, expression of nihilism, resistance, irony and ridicule, search for hedonism. The punk phenomenon continues today. Some teens still cling to the complete look. whether they have punks' idea and value or not. Diverse elements of punk style play a major role in the current trend of fashion and a source of the fresh inspiration for the high fashion designers. Punk style is truly the story of a fad that turned to fashion.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.11-26
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• 2003

It is an important means of expressing oneself and is affected by the social and cultural environment, too. People are creating another new lower culture, it's Sub Culture, that is, their own unique new fashion through the coordination status of a lower culture and its components to reveal the visual symbol of such garments and body decorations most clearly. The Punk formed as an reaction to 1960's hippie appeared as the most unpleasant image to the established generations with their ultimate resisting action and new aesthetic-consciousness. Their coordination by the use of the disorder and stimulative tool which gives abhorrence appears again as Cyber Punk being influenced by optical art and multimedia in '90s. It can be seen that the form of lower culture mentioned above became a storehouse of new fashion creation through the most nuclear role of lower culture and the unique characteristic coordination by age and that each lower culture fashion can become a style icon of new fashion through free coordination.

• 트랜스-
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• 제8권
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• pp.1-28
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• 2020

본 연구는 지역기반 음악사조로서 '홍대 사운드'의 정체성을 '미8군 사운드'와 영국 '런던 펑크'와의 비교분석을 통해 고찰해본다. 홍대음악은 90년대 클럽을 중심으로 활동하던 밴드들이 연주하던, 주류의 음악과는 장르적·산업적으로 다른 비주류적 감성의 음악을 통칭한다. 하지만 '인디'라는 산업적인 관점에서의 정체성이 음악사조로서의 홍대음악에 대한 학술적 접근을 어렵게 만드는 것도 사실이다. 그러므로 서구의 다른 음악사조와 마찬가지로 지역기반의 음악사조로서 홍대 사운드의 정체성을 명확하게 재정립하는 것이 필요하다. '미8군 사운드'는 50년대 미군의 한국 주둔 이후 자연스럽게 형성된 미8군부대 내 공연무대에서 연주되던 음악적 경향을 통칭한다. 미군 커뮤니티의 위문공연을 위해 오디션 시스템을 통해 선발된 국내 뮤지션들은 그들의 입맛에 맞는 서양의 최신 대중음악을 자연스럽게 익혔고, 이는 한국대중문화에 빠르게 전파되어갔다. 미8군 사운드의 산업시스템은 오늘날 '케이팝'과 매우 흡사하지만, 새롭게 등장한 록 장르를 수용하여 새로운 음악경향을 주도했다는 점에서 홍대 사운드와 유사한 면을 발견할 수 있다. 런던 펑크는 70년대 중반 영국 젊은이들의 사회적 불만과 저항정신을 담은 록 장르로, 기본에 충실한 음악적 구성과 인디의 DIY정신을 내세운 대안적 음악이었다. 홍대 사운드는 산업구조나 음악 스타일, 정신적인 면에서 런던 펑크의 많은 부분을 계승하였다. 하지만 시류의 변화에 영합하여 주류로 편입된 런던펑크와 달리 홍대 사운드는 끊임없는 변화를 모색하면서도 인디의 기본정신과 진정성을 포기하지 않으며 음악사적으로 유래를 찾기 힘든 지속성을 유지하고 있다.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.34-45
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• 2004

Hair styles which independently coexist by transcending the time and space under the environment of highly developed information and communication technology of recent years, were analyzed. Moreover the concerned trends of art which influenced on these styles were introduced in this study. Through IT based information exchange produced new hair styles which have the technological images. The characteristics of these hair styles are investigated also. For the examination of yearly trends, hair styles in fashion collections of Yves Saint Larent during 1962 to 1999 were examined and classified. The results show that time variated trends are appeared in this period. For the analysis of the trends of hair styles featuring technological images, hair styles in fashion collection of Christian Dior, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Jean Paul Gaultier and Chanel in the early 2000s are quoted.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.242-253
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• 2005

The objective of this research is to identify and examine the punk hair styles which, with their various, rather vague names, help to describe the twentieth century subordinate culture or subculture and also their place today as one of the mainstream male hair trends. The scope of this research will stretch to include also: North-east and around that areas native Americans'hair styles which, are thought to have strong links with the Punk hair tend. The focus of this research will remain with the so-called Mohican or Mohawk hair styles(collectively referred to as Punk styles), which have originated mainly from native American warrions residing in North-east and South-east region of the United States. This study clarified a few questions in doubt concerning the origin of cockcomb hairstyle. Firstly, the cockcomb hairstyle known to represent punk hairstyle was influenced the American Indian's Roach style. Secondly, since Roach style is referred as Mohawk tribe's hairstyle in some refernces, the view of seeing cockcomb hairstyle as a Mohawk style is considered more persuasive. Thirdly, although Roach style was a usual hairstyle through North-east and South-east region of the United States, the people in South-east region did Roach hair style because of the North-east's influences. Lastly alike the Punkers had several kinds of cockcomb hairstyle. American Indians'Roach style also differed in shape concerning of their regions and their kindred. In addition, the reason why the most common term to refer punk hairstyle became Mohican is considered as that the film 'Last Mohican' has influenced on it. That film can appeal their history and play a good role of mediator to let the public know better about themselves, 'Mohican' naturally became the name of the specific hair style.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.112-126
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• 2019

The objective of this study was to investigate visual elements of steampunk fashion and provide base line data for innovative fashion design ideas and products. We investigated design characteristics of steampunk fashion style shown in 3 movies and 3 animations. Based on the investigation, the research drew intrinsic value of steampunk fashion from three brands 'Vivienne Westwood', 'Dolce & Gabbana' and 'Alexander McQueen'. As the research analyzed movies and animations revealing steampunk style, various characteristics were found and assorted into similar categories. Subcategories of steampunk fashion are pluralism, rebellion and heterogeneity. The followings are result of analyzing three designer collection listed above. First, steampunk fashion made by designers used various color and materials to express multi-pluralistic(multiplicity) characteristic. Second, fashion style in collections revealed artistic and experimental design. This adventurous and innovative characteristic is categorized as rebellion feature. Third, steampunk fashion style used mix-match of unexpected materials or unbalanced silhouette to create a complete fashion style by combining styles in duplicity which could've lack harmony. Intrinsic value of steampunk is defined as graffiti of 19th century's science technology and utopia spirit. Longing for past and fantasy was expressed into fashion. Steampunk fashion wants to escape reality and tries to recreate history of the past faded away with technological development. It defines steampunk as freedom, deviation and fantastical utopia in positive point of view. Furthermore, aesthetic implication of steampunk style found in this research can make a boundary of steampunk style clear and become reference for future researches regarding steampunk fashion.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.123-130
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to understand Skull Images in fashion trends and Skull Image Top Design for Female Teenagers. The methods of this study are an academic literature review as well as practical study through actual case studies about. The subjects of the study were 53 Female Teenagers who lived in Chuncheon. Data were collected during March, 2009. Statistical analyses used in the study were frequency. An adolescent period, they are rebellious, sensual and syntonic inclination. These days, Lots of Female Teenagers want unique fashion for herself and select Skull Image clothing. But they want fit and pretty style not big-look. In this study, I designed seven pieces of Top blouse while applying Skull Image, an important image of Hip-hop and Punk fashion, and the concepts of the continuance theory to them. This study will make a contribution to the designing of Top for Female Teenagers through reinterpretation of the Hip-hop and Punk fashion. In addition, there are practicable and unique Top design for Female Teenagers.

• 복식
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• 제52권5호
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• pp.173-186
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• 2002

Street Style, occurred in British and America, has been expressed the character of the new generation by repeating developments and changes. Nowadays, pop music reflects the phase of society. and simultaneously it has influence on from culture to society. Rock Music was rooted in Country 8l western of America. Upon Country & Western, Afro-Americans Rhythm & Blues was added, and that was the birth of Rockabilly. Rockabilly developed to Rock'n 'roll and it started to change to various forms of Rock since 1950s. As the commercial impact and the breakthrough of teenagers emotion, the rock culture comprised the base of the youth culture. However. it formed the anti-establishment culture against the established value, accepting working class subculture. The teenager culture was affected by the Rock culture, also found relief in the opulence provided by the established generation, imitating it as it was. Simultaneously, it had a contrary aspect as anti-establishment form under the banner of revolt against languor in richness. The youth culture created street style that was escaped from high fashion, every time Rock music had changes. Since Street style was based on resistance of established culture and it fully refused vogue, it was indifferent from high fashion. The results of this study were as following. First, every time Rock music had changes, the new youth culture was concomitant with, the youth culture created street style. Secondly, rockahibilly style was characterized as diamond shaped design, embroidery, extra wide shirt collar, vivid contrast color . Rockers style was represented as metal studs, beads, denim, leather jacket, boots. Fusion of hippies style and Psychedelic, long hair, beads. worn denim were elements of headbangers style. Punks style was characterized as ripped T-shirt. rooster hair, over decorated jacket, short skirt. net or plastic T-shirt. Lastly, the firm relation between popular art and fashion was proved by examining the history of Rock Music and Street Style.