• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제13권6호
• /
• pp.856-865
• /
• 2011

This paper intends to examine how Fringe, which is in an inseparable relationship with modern fashion, has been changed and what characteristics it is expressed to have in fashion on the basis of its formative property expressed in modern fashion. In order to empirically analyze Fringe, this paper analyzed a total of 346 Fringe of every type that were generally found in the worldis four biggest collections, from 2006S/S to 2011S/S. This paper found some methods Fringe is made, which are: using a snagged fabric or knit as it is; intentionally snagging or tearing a fabric to make the effect of being snagged; knotting the tail or the edge of clothes, and then, macram$\grave{E}$; and cutting leather or suede, which canit be snagged easily, and making Fringe strands. Fringe strands which are made in the above ways are made into a band and then, attached, or Fringe strands, a feathers, a comb, or beads are attached one by one. Or a tassel is independently or consecutively applied to clothes or ornaments, which are expressed in the form of fringes. Threads, strings, leather, suede, metals, plastics, raffia, horsehair, paper, beads, pearls, crystals, or felt were used for rich texture or unique visual effects. Colors of various brightness and chromas were used in consideration of materials. Through the effects of sameness, similarity, contrast, harmony and gradation with colors of clothes, emphasis or unified harmony was expressed. The expressive characteristics of Fringe, which were found in the modern fashion through those formative characteristics, were organic rhythmical beauty, handicraft decorative beauty, and folksy natural beauty.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제24권6호
• /
• pp.903-919
• /
• 2016

This study aimed to contribute to the development of various female fashion designs by reviewing the genderless styles in androgynous trends that have loomed large in women's fashion, as well as through analyzing and organizing the changes in women's fashion that were required in a society in which various values coexist. A literature review was conducted to identify the genderless concepts, through which a total of 1,273 materials were selected from 10 brands of the S/S collections, during the period of 2006~2016. The results were as follows: first, without the juxtaposition of incongruous objects or images and a fixed type of color arrangements, the compromise shown in women's fashion were mostly expressed through various tones and diverse colors, and with the mixed use of heterogeneous patterns and materials. Second, the enjoyment of genderless styles was expressed with the unexpectedness that occur through symmetry/asymmetry and harmony/disharmony, as well as through the deviation from conventional notions regarding clothing structures. Third, the exaggeration expressed in women's clothing collections perfectly covered up a woman's body shape with the silhouette of exorbitantly expanded bulk and dimensions. These were done with extended lengths, expanded adornments, and modified clothing design types or structures. Fourth, the sensuality of genderless styles analyzed in women's fashion was expressed with mannish clothing that accentuates the beauty of the female body. Lastly, the historicity shown in genderless styles was expressed through clothing that represented traditional styles of the past, the symbolic meanings expressed in the clothes' colors and patterns, and the methods in which the decorative factors were utilized.

• 복식
• /
• 제51권5호
• /
• pp.157-173
• /
• 2001

In fashion, there are various cultural aspects that exist in complexity, where according to the era, even fashion items newly develop and prevail into various designs in the organic function with reality of related cultural phenomenon and aesthetic aim. Among the fashion items, the shoe is historically considered as the shield from lust and also the provision of praise against the most emotional incitement. Mankind has started wearing shoes out of the functional purpose of protection since the ancient Egyptian times. Thereafter humankind has been creating shoes artistically in respect to shape, color, and quality of material, etc, as an expression of aesthetical awareness and introspective desire for beauty. As modern fashion increasingly regards the total fashion image much more important than each items consisting the whole outfit, the role of shoe became essential more than ever. Contrary to its relative importance, little academic attention was given to this area yet, while prestigious museums and galleries in Europe and the USA have held exhibitions of shoes in view of both historical and artistic aspects. This study aims to make a historical inquiry of western shoes. through which their aesthetic values can be drawn. Literature on this subject including aesthetics, history of costume and arts were referred. Fashion magazines and catalogues were investigated for additional information. The process and results of this study are meant to be a suggestion not only to further studies but also to artistic and creative shoe design. Originated for the functional purpose, shoes have evolved in various shapes with different meanings attached to it. When the technological development made the satisfaction for functional needs possible, the intrinsic attribute, the aesthetic value was pursued. The historical contemplations of shoes from Egyptian times to the 1990's led to the results that the intrinsic aesthetic value of shoes can be summarized as follows: 1) protection and extension of body, 2) need for decoration, 3) erotic expression, 4) symbol of dignity and class, 5) fashion.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제13권5호
• /
• pp.790-803
• /
• 2005

This study purposes to examine the background of the sexual concept and femininity, masculinity and gender role in the fields of social psychology and cultural anthropology and investigate the traditional gender role and the fashion's changes according to its role and the examples of the masculinity and femininity expressed in the contemporary fashion and finally analyze the gender identity expressed in fashion. The image changes which appeared in the modern fashion can be considered to be Masculine Look, Garconne Look, Feminine Look, Unisex Look, Androgynous Look and Genderless Look. The Garconne Look caused lots of changes to masculinity in the 1920's along with the changes of femininity. With the effect of feminism, many females wore clothing which had been thought as male's clothing by the appearance of Masculine Look. The major formation reason of Unisex Look can be regarded as the attitude change of the society toward to females and a meaning which doesn't want the differences of the distinction of gender to appear any longer as a characteristic external factor is implied. Androgynous Look which appeared in the 1980's means the integration of femininity and masculinity which is the same meaning with 'androgyny' in itself, Not denying its gender characteristics individually, the Androgynous Look means that women aim at the masculine image in men's clothing or men do at the feminine image in women's clothing. Genderless Look can be considered to a look with a notion to wear clothing freely even in fashion transcending the border of masculinity and femininity differentiated socially and culturally.

• 한국생활과학회지
• /
• 제18권4호
• /
• pp.891-902
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze sexual images in the 21th century men's fashion, including phenomenal formative changes and characteristics. Theoretical framework was developed based on literature reviews. Photo images were collected from collections presented in 2001 to 2008 on the internet sites. By focusing on sexual image. men's fashion design was analyzed. Since 21th century, men have expressed their own fashion sense and sexual image quite freely. Men's fashion has expanded its scope into region which are not exclusively of men's traditional fashion identity realm. The result of this study is as follows: First, Noble Dandyism is common among noble dandies whose desired image is luxurious, soft, and sophisticated. Second, Bisexual Caportism is another appealing 'Youth is beautiful' trend of our modern age. Beyond age and gender, modern people pay a special attention to the Caports look which aims to project an image of healthiness, dynamism, youth, and pure balanced beauty combined with fashion. Third, Macho Narcissism enjoys showing and exposing well-trained and beautiful bodies, compared to the old masculine image which was more known for expressing an authoritative and dominant strength. Fourth, Homme Fatale Vampicism seeks to accentuate deconstructed femininity and bare legs, matted make-up, long and curly hair, especially aims to emphasize sexual charms, which naturally makes its image more fascinating.

• 복식
• /
• 제57권6호
• /
• pp.101-111
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the features of the conversational patterns presented on the fashion in the early 2000's and analyze it from cultural view. The expression of the patterns is a result of a creative aesthetic activity, mental activity, and the reflection of the common cognition. And the fashion is a part of the life environment. So the patterns presented on the fashion provides a clue to figure out the common unconscious sense for explaining the culture. The patterns have been expressed with different methods belonging to each culture such as weaving and prints. And those of the each cultural group have been communicating each other. The silk came to the Europe in the 6th century. The textile industry which flourished since 15th century. And they shows the chinoiserie or indian prints, not only the european culture. We can observe that the exchange of the techniques and cultures between cultural groups like the east and the west, and the presentation of the patterns is a way to express their own desires. The patterns presented after 2,000 can be classified by the form and the contents. But, more specifically, the patterns classified by the contents, which is Conversational design, can be categorized as followed according to the origin; reflecting cultural identity, Popular culture, Lohas lifestyle, and art movements. Which can be summarized as that the people have more interest on the different cultural group, diversity, retrospectiveness, and exoticism, which the patterns originally belonged to than on the form itself.

• 복식
• /
• 제57권6호
• /
• pp.122-134
• /
• 2007

Fine art and fashion have influences on each other since both of them are the part of a culture. The similar patterns of fine art and fashion can be found either in the same period or in the different time. To find out this fact in the forms or content, this study researched into the fine art and fashion of 1960s and into recent year's fashion to see the revivals. In 1960s, fine art and fashion laid emphasis on the materiality of material itself, therefore both fine art and fashion have the tendency of formlessness and disorder in form. It ran be said that the socio-cultural background of this phenomenon in 1960s was mainly caused by the young generation called Hippies. They became a large influential social group that has a huge impact on overall culture in 1960s. As a result, this study firstly found that the fine art and fashion had common formative features and content in 1960s. Secondly, fashion since 1990 repeats the similar features in form like the Post-minimal tendency in fine art in 1960s. The similar features can be described as: artworks have the tendency of the formlessness and disorder in appearances; various materials were newly used to form a work, which had never been used in traditional artworks; new methods such as hanging, layering and knotting were applied to show the maximum expression of the materiality. However, unlike the fashion of 1960s, the Post-minimal tendency in fashion since 1990s doesn't symbolized freedom or peace, or opposition to the war anymore. Instead, only the formative elements were revived and reproduced and the formless tendency became one of the recent fashion trends.

• 복식
• /
• 제58권6호
• /
• pp.1-11
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study was to investigate how formativeness of shamanism has expressed and developed in modern fashion. Formative expression of shamanism in modern fashion has expressed in the way of on style, color, material and pattern as follows; Style has made animal and human incorporated by expressing abstract animal on the part or whole of costume and it has reconstructed traditional shaman costume into modern costume. Skin colors of living bodies which exist in nature, such as black, blown, yellow and grey, were used to symbolize spirit and low brightness of colors such as blue, white and black were also used to symbolize hyperspace. Artificial materials which imitate animal figure and genuine materials from animal were used. Various natural materials used in traditional shaman costume were also used. Animal patterns and abstract patterns symbolizing the celestial heaven and lower world, and patterns shown on wall painting and rock painting has appeared. The meaning of shamanism in modern fashion can be identified as interchangeable movement of time and space, a cosmic outlook on the world and ration. Spiritually designed costume has made fashion move to hyperspace in spirit trip. Modern fashion with shamanism has expressed its cosmic outlook on the world or universal wish beyond human's real world by patterns such as bird figure which means the celestial heaven and lower world. Corporation and transition of human and animal were symbolized as shaman hypernatural intercourse with designs expressed in costume using a part of animal or animal's characteristics.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
• /
• 제18권4호
• /
• pp.31-42
• /
• 2009

Though Adolf Loos, an architect of 1920s said 'ornament is sin', feature of decoration has big gravity in modern architecture & its design trend. Embellishment as a new genre that combined new cultures, trends, and technologies is finally ascribing to skin design approach. For instance it is preference to rags, coarse fabric, external shape of fragments. Expressing surface as a ceremony in architecture or indoor design is also belong to the same category. In this respect, as a new approach on skin, the study focuses on visual and spatial changes that stimulate user's sensibilities consequently since skin design is based on human senses and sensibilities. As skin design expands the scope of human experiences comprehensively, and classify boundaries between internal parts and external parts or make them ambiguous, aesthetic embodiment on new trends is getting done. Through skins on buildings, a message is transmitted to a whole city, an opportunity for the city to be expanded into a new space is created, and human senses are stimulated through refusing a traditional sides by rediscovering decorations in space design and adapting the sides made in limitlessly-expressed styles. Thus, as a new approach on the skins that transmit a message through human senses, the study is to contemplate skin design, and to interpret them as works to eliminate boundaries among architecture, fashion, interior/exterior space design(especially exhibition and international fair)following their suits. Through interpreting this subject, the study is to understand and analyze comtemporary expansion situation on interactions among fashion and architecture, and interior design.

• 한국지능시스템학회논문지
• /
• 제7권3호
• /
• pp.55-64
• /
• 1997

본 논문에서는 퍼지이론을 이용하여 방이나 사무실 등의 색채공간을 사용자가 원하는 분위기로 조화로운 색채공간으로 설계해 가는 의사결정 보조 시스템을 구현하였다. 여기서 사용자가 원하는 분위기란 색채공간이 주는 여러 가지 감정효과를 의미하고 이는 '낭만적인','우아한' 등의 형용사로 표현되며 조화로운 배색이란 원하는 분위기를 유지하면서 전체적인 색채계획이 조화를 이루는 배색을 의미한다. 개발된 색채계획 시스템은 색채공간을 그리기 위한 2차원 그래픽 툴, 사용자가 원하는 분위기를 입력하는 입력부, 사용자의 입력에 따라 주색을 결정하는 주색 결정부, 주색과 조화를 이루는 조화색 결정부, 추천된 색을 수정하는 미세 색조정부 등의 5가지 부시스템으로 구성되어 있다. 이 색채계획 시스템은 인테리어 디자인의 색채계획에 있어서 일반사람들이나 디자이너들에게 도움을 줄 수 있으며, 패션 디자인, 상품 디자인 등의 유사한 색채계획에도 유용하게 활용될 수 있을 거으로 기대된다.