The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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v.7
no.1
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pp.58-65
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2021
Jewelry Object to adorn a body with has been a very important culture since the primitive age when history of human beings started. Ornaments for social status or wealth's symbolic icon otherwise for private embellishment have been developed with various properties such as decorative, monetary, scarce, historic ones. However, since the latter 20th century, when intellecture concept was more valuable than the tradition laying emphasis on preciousness, with counting of artistic activities and aesthetic values, they have had expressionistic tendency centered on artists. In this manner, modern ornaments have been developed as an artistic genre deviating from traditional way in which material or technology was emphasized. While this expressionistic tendency emphasized artistic value, galleries only for ornaments have been started since 1960s and especially from this period, a lot of experimental and revolutionary ornaments works deviating from traditional way have been exhibited. The appearance of galleries specialized in ornaments as described above had a great influence on the ornaments' development to an artistic genre. This study is the one in respect of two exhibition types through the combination of human body and clothes in displaying ornaments. The first one represents active displaying way for the communication with audience by introducing fashion show to galleries deviating from general exhibition way. The second one plans to run a project collaborating fashion brand for the communication between ornaments and clothes and represents displaying way in the shop of fashion brand for active exhibition publicity.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.15
no.3
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pp.157-166
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2013
Features of the Occult Culture is preferred that powers, demons, magic, magical, unreal etc. Currently Occultism is getting a lot of attention to the public in the society, culture, arts and the play. Fashion in the period that includes all circumstances is a field. Thus, the current Occultism and modern fashion will also be related. Objective of the study is to figure out the form and meaning of Occultism in Contemporary Fashion. An example of the best of contemporary trends is the mass media, For this reason, Occultism symptoms range of case studies mess media(television programs and film). Research on contemporary fashion range was used 2000-2013 fashion collection extracted from the data. Represented in the mess media features of occultism is 'Witchcraft and Sorcery' and 'Death and Horror'. They are story of wizard exorcism and unnatural horror. In the 21st century, modern people are enjoying occultism, and occultism is the one of the entertainment. Expressed in contemporary fashion features of occultism is 'Super-human organism', that is out of the human body, ignoring body shape and type of transformed organism. Second distinction is 'Ghost', they are something like the dark and dismal, shape of ghosts and look pale. Third distinction is 'Neo-Macabre', it is the shape of the skeleton. Skeleton symbolizing the end of life, skeleton to express Occultism has emerged as the most representative motifs in the 21st century fashion. Occultism expressed in fashion is a gothic fantasy, because the fashion can be expressed. In addition, people in modern society wants to be against the norms and taboos. The trend Occult-culture is a symbol of the public's desires and needs.
The purpose of this study was to analyze the types and meanings of calligraphy presented in modern fashion design. Calligraphy refers to beautiful handwriting or fine penmanship in the West, and handwriting with brushstrokes in the East. The expression patterns being used at present can be divided into three categories. Legible calligraphy is focused on readability more than embellishment. Decorative calligraphy places its importance on decoration at the expense of practicality. The third type, harmonious calligraphy, pursues decorativeness and legibility at the same time. Each of these types of calligraphy is expressed in modern fashion with its own purpose: calligraphy for conveying emotional messages, calligraphy as a special brand image, and calligraphy as an expression of formativeness. The first, calligraphy for conveying emotional messages, is used with characters that are familiar to the public. Calligraphy of this type delivers messages confined emotionally to the conscious world, harmonizing calligraphy with words, or expressing readability filled with purity and delight. Second, calligraphy as a special brand image refers to transmitting a distinctive brand image from other companies through employment of a design motive or pattern by expressing the brand logos or names of designers. Third, calligraphy as a expression of formativeness has the function of shaping expressions as motives or patterns, avoiding meanings of words or phrases. It can be represented by the abbreviation or modification of words, or arranging words in different shapes, harmonizing the words with the clothing construction and atmosphere of the other images.
There are many functions of glasses. Not only as a medical instrument but also for decorative purpose and individuality as a mean of expression. The concept of glasses applied according to various purposes and use. Following the designers' point of view, the most important research task is to make products substantial and convenient rather than external beauty after analysis problems and the needs of customers. Because customers ask for the best quality of design all the time. The best design of glass includes essential conditions like; creativity, satisfaction, convenience of use, identity. These conditions are common elements of glasses in both domestic and foreign markets. Also they can be a catalyst to stimulate glasses industry in Korea. First of all to study tho parts of glasses "End Piece", it is essential to consider for a better design. Because it adjusts the center of glasses weight balance for user's comfort. Since many brands are imitated, the significance of "End piece" is of a great importance resulting in a more successful competitiveness.
The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressional characteristics of the machine aesthetics in the fashion design. First, this study was started from analyzing mechanical beauty represented on the early 20th century art style. Machine aesthetics has influenced on the art and fashion design from modern to now. Futurism was grounded in the complete renewal of human sensibility brought about by the great discoveries of science. Especially, Russia avant-garde was inspired by the Futurism, that is Rayonism, Constructivism, Suprematism. Kasimir Malevich moved on immediately to purely abstract paintings of which the first was a black square on a white canvas. He had begun the art he called 'Suprematism'. Malevich's geometry was funded on the straight line, the supremely elemental form which symbolized man's ascendancy over the chaos of nature. The square was the basic suprematist element and was a repudiation of the world of appearances, and of past art. He repudiated any marriage of convenience between the artist and the engineer. Vladimir Tatlin made some of the most revolutionary works of modern art, these were the first works to be called 'construction'. Constructivists believed that the essential conditions of the machine and the consciousness of man inevitably create an aesthetic which would reflect their time. They eulogized simple shapes. That believed that buildings and objects should be freed from the ornamental excrescences and the accumulated barnacles of past art. Consequently, under the theoretical background, the result is as follows. First, The functional formativeness of machine aesthetics was expressed as a geometrical silhouette, construction line, non-ornamental construction, simple color in the 20th century design. Second, The mechanical formativeness of machine aesthetics was expressed as a construction of new material-iron, aluminium, plastic, glass-, geometrical form of material in he 20th century design. That is, machine beauty has more concerned with the expressional ideology of the art style and the formativeness of fashion design by silhouette, construction line, material, form.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.18
no.2
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pp.221-236
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2016
The purpose of this study is to make a contribution to the development of creative fashion culture through the expansion of creative fields in the fashion design area and also the combination of fashion and art techniques, by classifying the cases of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ expressed in modern fashion, and also analyzing its aesthetic characteristics. Conducting the qualitative research through the literature study and the analysis of design cases, it targeted the women's wear collections of Paris, Milan, London, and New York, limiting its range from S/S 2010 to F/W 2015. The results are as follows: First, based on the preceding research, the types of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ expressed in modern fashion were shown as realistic expression of clothing, movement of daily objects, double images, and application of human body. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ based on its expression types were deconstruction, avant-garde, and amusements. The deconstruction was expressed in the expression type of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ such as freedom of materials using digital printing technique, change in the position of clothes, and movement of daily items using collage technique by collecting objets like daily items or waste. The avant-garde was expressed by switching/overlapping in and out of clothes, intentionally exposing some body parts like breast or torso, displacing body parts, and moving daily items. The amusements was shown by realistically expressing accessories or details of clothes using digital printing technique, or moving daily items such as book and fork.
The purpose of this study is to investigate the main characteristics of the environmentalism expressed in contemporary fashion. i.e. 'eco-look'. They can be categorized into naturalism symbolism primitiveness and concern about recycling. First naturalistic tendency can be found in through the method of some contemporary eco-looks which are using natural colors harmonisation of the colors in similarity and in controst and expressing in a realistic manner some natural entities or use some ornaments representing them. Such trends easily let people to feel the clothes unified with the nature and human beings. Secondly some contemporary eco-looks express environmentalistic ideas for examples the idea for protection of the nature or the idea against pollution of the earth and destruction of nature in a symbolistic way. Thirdly primitiveness is one of the most characteristic feature in contemporary eco-looks. It can be found in contemporary eco-looks, In can be found in some eco-looks using primitive or original images of Africa and underdeveloped countries. it reflects the human desire to go back to the nature or to the unity with the nature, Finally recycled materials are commonly used in eco-look. Patchwork and handmade knits are popular methods for this mode. They implicates the idea of pragmatism and simplicity in fashion. One Conclusion of the paper on eco-look: fashion design which can be itself an import-ant environment of human beings Secondly some contemporary eco-looks ex-press environmentalistic ideas for examples the idea for protection of the nature or the idea against pollution of the earth and destruction of nature in a symbolistic way. Thirdly primitiveness is one of the most characteristic feature in contemporary eco-looks. It can be found in some eco-looks using primitive or original images of Africa and underdeveloped countries. it reflects the human desire to go back to the nature or to the unity with the nature. Finally recycled materials are commonly used In eco-look Patchwork and handmade knits are popular methods for this mode. They implicates the idea of pragmatism and simplicity in fashion. One Conclusion of the paper on eco-look ; fashion design which can be itself an import-ant environment of human beings has become a very efficient and significant tool to express the idea of ecology.
In this paper we discuss the corelation be-tween feminism and fashion and examine its influnce on mordern fashion. And we also try to infer what the fashion design will be like in the future by understanding the value of modern fashion from a new viewpoint. The Early Feminism which advocated the similarity between man and women held the thought that women could be equal to men only when they behaved in the same way as men did, In 1970s when the pendulum of the Early Feminism movement reached its highest point a manish look began to flourish. The manish look introduced the items once employed only for men such as trench costs tidy tailored suits shirts and ties to women clothes. It has taken root deeply in women's life and is still employed in various ways by many designers. From the late 1970s the pendulum of feminism movement began to swing toward the Essentialist Feminism which emphasized the differences between men and women. It focused not on the negative image of women seen from male-oriented viewpoints but on their positive image and stressed women's sexual characteristic to make distinction between two genders. in fashion the Essentialist Feminism played a role in bringing about a sexy look which stressed the erotic silhouette of woman's body. The latest feminism is the socio-cultural one. It sees the distinction between men and women as sexual discrimination and introduces the androgynous human which carries the characteristic of two sexes. it leads to ambiguity of sex roles and at the same time serves to make androgynous social atmosphere by admitting the coexistence of two genders. The androgynous idea in fashion is expressed as a new trend which crosses men and women's own beauty while keeping their own identity intact. As we have briefly reviewed feminism in fashion has been presented in various ways with regard to expressing the nature of men and women. And it has continuously indicated the ultimate message of the salvation of mankind such as the respect for humanity and recovery of humanism.
The main purpose of this study was intended to analyze the image of N대-Expressionism represented in the late of 20th century fashion design. By the late 1960s and the early 1970s. the prevailing notion of modernity, which had pushed the limits of art beyond previous boundaries, had begun to lose its urgency. Critics called the new pluralistic era which the West was entering Post-Modern. Furthermore, the predominance of America and the New York scene is diminishing, and artistic leadership is now international. Post-Modernism dialectcally made denial of Modernism as likely as New Image Painting and Decorative Pattern Painting Art in 1970's and it was availed as a dialectcal means for the pre-diction of new comings that would be appeared at painting art in 1980's. New Image Painting has been called as Neo-Expressionism. The N대-Expressionists selected human's feature because appeared flankly, directly irregular agitation in the visual effect and they believed human's destructive and amputate body was cruelty. So they express it on the surface canvas. Under the these background, the image of Neo-Expressionism was represented in the late of 20th century fashion design such as the upside-down image of human feature, the image as ameditation on German myth and history, culture, the ecletic image is made of use a mixture of material. The properties of composition, line, color, texture, and form, common to all plastic art, are now more readily recognized and historically valued in every work. That is, individuality, humanity, and the human condition have been at the core of most Western art and Fashion design. Especially Fashion design has been one of the principal instruments used to examine our nature and to promote the notion of growth, self-understanding, and change.
The purpose of this study is to come up with a perspective that can enhance the understanding about the mechanism of fashion change. The starting idea of this study is that fashion has changed according to the ideal body image of the specific society or individual. The theoretical framework about the ideal body image has been studied by the literatures on the subject and it is verified by the analysis of John Galliano & Martin Margiela's fashion works. The results are as follows. First, Galliano exposes the woman's body as a sexual symbol which is articulated by men's eyes. Margiela describes the woman's body as human being which doesn't highlight any sexual characteristics. Second, Galliano emphasizes the body conscious silhouette whereas Margiela perceives the body as a whole, rather than looks into each body part. Third, Galliano uses lots of decoration to make display luxurious. Margiela restrains himself from using decorations and tries to create images by interaction between the clothes and bodies. Forth, Galliano expresses the eroticism by accentuating eyes and lips with strong color cosmetics. Margiela's fashion is not dazzling with makeup. He even covers the face with fabrics. Aesthetics in all societies is articulated by their hidden social power groups, and then it has influence on taking shape of the ideal body image and the mainstream of fashion. But the innate characters of individuals offer challenges to the fashion majority. The tension between the social power and individual character makes and changes the fashion.
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