• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.72-86
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• 2008

This research focused on determining the brassiere preference index and wearing status of chinese ladies in their 20's living in the Shanghai region of China, to help Korean lingerie companies in their development of bras to successfully advance into the Chinese lingerie market. The main research tool of this research was various different surveys, and the results of the surveys were evaluated using the SPSS 12.0 for Window program. The results of the survey can be summarized as: 1) consciousness and satisfaction level of the body. The satisfaction level of the brest was proportionate to the size of the brassiere, thus, people showed higher level of satisfaction for cone-shaped, semi-circular shaped, prominent-shaped(exposing), lifted-shaped brest over flat-shaped brest. Concerning the relationship between the shape of the brest and the age of the customers, people under 22 years of age preferred flat-shaped, and those between 23-24 years of age preferring exposing and lifted brest, thus as females mature and get older, the size of their brest increases, thus having preference on more circular and lifted-shaped brest and bras. 2) Status of bra wearing in China When we look at the size of the bra in relation to the shape of the brest, those classified as having 'flat-shaped' brest showed a high proportion of A-cups, ranging from 75A, 70A and 80A, where as those of 'cone-shaped' brest represented high ration of B-cups, ranging from 75B, 75A and 80B. Majority of those classified as having 'semi-circular shaped' and 'prominent-shaped(exposing)' brest showed a high ration in the size 80 range. And vast majority of those classified into the 'lifted-shaped' brest group, were reported of having C-cup size bras. 3) Status of Bra Purchasing As people mature, the main reason behind choosing a bra was the actual design of the bra, where they emphasized the importance of aesthetic values. People classified as having 'flat-shaped' and 'cone-shaped' brest emphasized the importance of design and beauty, while those having 'semi-circular shaped,' 'prominent-shaped(exposing),' and 'liftedshaped' brest groups emphasized the importance of hygiene and the material(fabric) of the bra. This shows that when people have relatively smaller brest, they emphasize the importance of external appearance whereas when the size of the brest increases, they pay more attention to the function of the bra rather than the external appearance.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.87-99
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• 2008

This study aims to classify lower trunk body types of Chinese men in their middle age (30s and 40s) and suggest the standard for them to design slacks pattern. Mollison's relation deviations were used to analyze the direct measurement items in this research compared to those of Size Korea 2004. Though Korean middle-aged men were higher in most items than Chinese counterparts, all items except mid-thigh circumference and side hip length were merely within the range of ${\pm}1\sigma$. According to the results of size classification by absolute values, factor analysis extracted to 2 factors(horizontal size of lower body and vertical size of lower body), and cluster analysis brought about 3 types(type1: tall and thin trunk (36.9%), type 2 : normal height and thick trunk(45.5%), and type 3 : short and normal trunk(17.6%) with some significant differences among them. Also, the results of shape classification by index values, they were extracted 4 factors (waist-hip flatness, waist-hip cross section, vertical waist-groin and hip-surface length) by factor analysis and revealed 3 types(type 1: different waist-hip width, thick, long waist, long upper hip, and short hip-surface length(27.8%), type 2 : different waist-hip width, flat, short upper hip, high hip and groin, and average hip-surface length(29.4%), and type 3: small waist-hip width, thick, average upper hip, and short hip-surface length (42.8%)) with significant differences among them by cluster analysis. The results of standard body types by shape-size combination, 19subjects(10.16%) under these values are regarded as standard body types. Significance was not seen in all items in the t-test results between the total group and the standard group. The latter had lower variation coefficients and smaller individual differences than the former. However, in-depth research is required for generalization since this research is limited to a small number of subjects in Ningbo of Zhejiang.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.101-114
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• 2007

This research aimed to identify the differences, in terms of the pattern, of using wool and jersey for designing jackets and to provide a theorized solution. The object of this study is development of women's tailored jacket pattern by the traits of fabrics with fabrics those are generally used to develop the power of manufacturing technique about fit of jacket. Basic bodies prototype, graphics of sleeves prototype and graphics of jacket pattern those a clothing company at present(on&on, a brand of Beaucre Merchandising Co.,Ltd) is using were used as basics of tailored jacket pattern. Three kinds of fabric(wool, polyester, jersey) were chosen, we made jackets in the same manufacturing process of the clothing company, modified and made up for the weak points and then we compared and analyzed differences of pattern by the traits of fabrics, the results are as follows: 1) We drafted basic tailored style jacket pattern, made a jacket with wool fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points by the trend, then developed JacketⅠ for study; 2) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with polyester fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket II for study; 3) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with jersey fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket III for study; 4) We presented final degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I II III for study; 5) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket II(Polyester), there was no change of size overall except extra amount which happens because of the trait of the fabric in 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size in 3 items(height of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern; 6) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket III(Jersey) for study, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 11 items(neck point to shoulder point length, Bishoulder point length, back interscye length, front interscye length, armhole circumference, depth of armhole, chest circumference, bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, waist dart) among 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 5 items(height of a sleeve, circumference of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve, width of bottom of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.158-175
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to understand and improve the clothing habits and the apparel industry of North Korea in preparation for the reunification of South and North Korea. For this study, literary data, reports, periodicals, interviews and internet data of the two Koreas were reviewed. North Korean clothing habits used to be monotonous and uniform but nowadays people's clothes have become somewhat brighter in color and more diverse in design than before. In particular, liberal and individual dressing habits appeared among the privileged classes. When taking part in national events, women have to wear the traditional Korean costume, Hanbok, while men wear business suits for formal wear. In general, men don't wear Hanbok. Students have to be in uniforms but blue jeans, T-shirts with English logos were popular among them reflecting their sensitivity and openness towards western cultures. The brides usually wear pink Hanboks and the bridegrooms wear black business suits for their wedding. North Koreans also wear Hanbok on national holidays like South Koreans. Clothing is the most important item in the trade of process commission between North and South Korea. Trading items are mid to low end men's clothing for the most part due to less emphasis on fashion in the North. The processing is indirect trade and composed of sample making and contracting, sending out materials and production, carrying in goods and setting accounts. To activate South-North trade, establishment of infrastructure, stabilization of shipping, reducing high costs of distribution, building direct communication system by setting up office in a neutral zone and simplifying procedures in applying for the South and North Korea Economic Cooperation Fund. On the other hand, clothing and textiles education is carried on at art colleges, light industries colleges and commercial colleges in Pyongyang. Clothing institutes which study Hanbok and Western clothes, are installed in each city and province. Graduates who majored in clothing and textiles are posted in institutes or apparel factories. Their job is designing, patternmaking and sewing for their customers. Most of them are women and in good state of economic conditions. The North Korean clothing industry has been the core national industry that has developed based on overseas demand form the mid 1980s. The standard is that of South Korea in the early 1980s. In 1999, trade of North Korean textile products with trade counterparts such as Japan and China was $1.3 million in exports and $1.27 in imports. Of this amount the export takes up 25.4% of the total exports in North Korea. However, fundamentally even in sectors that are irrelevant to politics such as the fashion clothing industry, trust between the South and North should be a prerequisite. Only through this can exchange between North and South and economic cooperation contribute towards the reunification.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.19-34
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the differences of the general characteristics of subjects, the utilizing realities and the degree of satisfaction in the shopping mall and purchasing intention between group I that specializes in fashion design and group II that doesn't specialize in it. The results are summarized as the following six aspects. First, as a result of the general characteristics of subjects and the utilizing realities, the most different variables were the visiting frequency and the goods purchasing frequency. The result indicated that group II took more interests than group I. Second, as a result of the degree of satisfaction according to the factors of the general characteristics of subjects and the utilizing realities in the shopping mall, both group I and group II showed high degree of satisfaction in factor 1 (variety of event) whereas both groups showed relatively low degree of satisfaction in factor 3 (variety of goods). Third, as a result of the degree of satisfaction according to the general characteristics of subjects and the utilizing realities, group I showed significant differences in the degree of satisfaction according to a monthly allowance of pocket money and goods purchasing frequency and group II showed significant differences in the degree of satisfaction according to grade, the utilizing reason, goods purchasing frequency. Fourth, as a result of purchasing intention of fashion goods according to the general characteristics of subjects and the utilizing realities, group I showed the higher purchasing intention of fashion goods in group that the terms of payment was on-line payment than group that they was credit card. On the other hand, group II showed a significant difference in grade, which showed that group that was above third grade had the higher purchasing intention of fashion goods than group that was under third grade. Fifth, as a result of purchasing intention of fashion goods according to the degree of satisfaction, group I showed significant differences in factor 1 and factor 3 among the degree of satisfaction. In other words, group that had high degree of satisfaction in factor 1 showed the higher purchasing intention of fashion goods than other groups and group that had medium degree of satisfaction in factor 3 showed the higher purchasing intention of fashion goods than other groups. In group II, on the other hands, group that had high total degree of satisfaction showed the higher purchasing intention of fashion goods than other groups. Sixth, as a result of relative influencing power of independent variable with respect to purchasing intention of fashion goods in group I, the higher degree of satisfaction in factor 1 and the lower degree of satisfaction in factor 3 showed, the higher purchasing intention of fashion goods showed. As a result of relative influencing power of independent variable in group II, however, the higher grade and the higher degree of satisfaction in factor 1 showed, the higher purchasing intention of fashion goods showed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.127-143
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• 2001

This thesis looks into the characteristics and compares the clothing styles between the Three Kingdom to the Unified Shilla era. The purpose of this study is to see what common themes exists between the foundation of Korean clothing and how it has evolved and through see to what extent the Chinese influence has been to Korean clothing culture. Also by explaining the originality and creativity of Korean clothing, we will be able to make clear the status of Korean culture. These findings include the following; 1. The Korean strait line Gik-ryong Kyo-im can also be found at the Gochang region in the west. 2. The Ban-ryong-ui, worn by the aristocrats of the Three kingdom and Unified Shilla era, began to appear from the nobles from the Nam-Buk cho(South-north era). This combined with a Bokdu(headwear) became a part of casual dress wear. 3. Go(pants) became a traditional part of clothing for Unified Shilla and the west. 4. Ban-bi and Bae-dang, all forms of Bansu-ui ( short sleeve), came from Chinas Kucha and Hotan and came to Korea. 5. Chinas Pae-baek and Pae-za (Shawl) which is the same as Unified Shillas Peo was also to be found to have come from the west. 6. The way a different color line was added to clothing both can be found in Korean and western clothing. Similarities to material used are; First, expensive wool was used and mostly originated from the west. From far away Rome came the O-saek-gae (Five-color wool). Secondly, Kong-gak me (peacock feather) and Bi-chi mo were all originated from the west. Third, Sil-sil is stated in the Sam-kuk Sa-ki (Three Kingdom records) as being prohibited to be worn by Jin-gol women (Highest nobility during Shilla era) as headwear or comb (pin) or as a comb(pin) for yuk-doo poom ( 6th class nobility) women. Suggesting that it existed and other sources tell us that it came from Tashkent region of Russia and was a jewelry of some sort. From what we have seen above, we can see the similarities between Korean and western clothing cultures and that these interactions not only occurred with China but with many other nations. We can see that our ancestors were creative and original that when importing foreign cultures that they transformed them into a Korean style. That these foreign cultures were transformed into our own style is good evidence to these facts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.85-93
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• 2001

This study was aimed at reviewing the preceding studies regarding infants' physical characteristics and comparatively examining their apparel specifications among countries, and thereupon, surveying the sizes and specifications of each special infant apparel brand in korea, and thereby, providing for the basic data useful to consumers when they choose infants' apparel sizes and specifications, and at the same time to brand makers for effective exchange of information. Thus, domestic special infant's apparel brands were surveyed for their own sizes and specifications, and thereby, the basic data useful to consumers when they choose their infants' apparel sizes and specifications as well as to brand makers when they exchange information among themselves were produced. The results of this study can summarized as follows: As a result of surveying the general trend of the infant apparel brands in korea, it was found that 5 brands had been established before 1990's, and that the remaining 7 ones had emerged during 1990's. When viewed in terms of brands' originality, it was disclosed that 10 brands were korean originals, while 2 brands were foreign ones licensed. On the other hand, as a consequence of surveying the target age groups of each brand, it was found that the targe age groups differed much ranging from 0 to 72 months or more narrowly from 12 to 24 months, which means that the infant age has yet to be defined for all the brands. In the case of the domestic infant-clothing product respect of inner wear, 8 clothing companies are producing the the outside clothing. In the outside clothing, from 6 months to 36 months' infant is the object, and 6m, 12m, 18m, 24m, 30m, 36m appeared with the fact that it produces in 6 sizes. In the case of the f and the g company which has the difference of size control is big, the f company is producing infant clothing for the age 0 to 72 months in 6 size which the difference of the measurement between the size is a lot to be appear, on the other hand, the g company is producing infant clothing for the age 0 to 6 months in 6 size which the difference of the measurement between the size is small to be appear.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.93-101
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• 1998

Knit products which had been limited only to underwear, recently became popularized, fashionized and highly classified covering even outer garments such as sportswear like golfwear, woman's dress, and man' s suit. As fashion cycle is getting shorter and the more a nation advanced prefers knit to woven fabrics knit industry has a very bright prospect, particularly woman's knit which is sensitive to fashion can be said as a fashion product with high value added. This study is to grasp the physical properties of stitch which are fundamental to the development of knit products. For this purpose, 2/20s of 100% wool were woven by the author of this study to basic plain stitch, rib stitch, varied transfer stitch, and float stitch on a SEMASEIKI cross knitter 7G to test the physical properties, and the result was as follows; 1. As for the relation between knit stitch and rate of extension recovery, rate of extension recovery was higher in the course direction than in the wale direction of three stitches except transfer stitch; rib stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the course direction while float stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the wale direction. 2. As for the relation between knit stitch and bursting strength elastic rib stitch showed higher bursting strength to indicate elasticity is an important factor of bursting strength and float stitch showed higher bursting strength too to indicate that the floating yarn on the surface plays a role of support. 3. As for the relation between knit stitch and air permeability perforated transfer stitch showed the lowest air permeability to prove that the size of perforation affects on the air permeability a great deal. 4. As for the relation between knit stitch and warmth retaining rib stitch through two lined needle bar showed the highest degree. The reason the warmth of perforated transfer stitch didn't decrease much was because the perforation wasn't big enough and content of air increased from the unevenness of the perforated parts through stitch variation. Based upon this result, each stitch can be characteristically summarized as follows; plain stitch showed a stable condition of knit cloth in four kinds of physical property test. And rib stitch is proper to tighten the edge of sleeve or clothe making use of its excellent extension recovery and to make socks for the highest bursting strength and warmth retaining. In the case of transfer stitch, seasonable designs can be taken by controlling the size of loop. Considering the pleasantness, underwear should be made of stitches with good air permeability float stitch was revealed to have color and pattern effects and a great bursting strength. This study has limitations in the aspect that it dealed with a small part of various knit stitches and the items of physical property test were not enough. The author of this study hopes that further studies would make deeper understandings about knit stitch based on more varied stitches and physical property tests ultimately to contribute to the development of fashionable designs proper to maximize the usage, function and originality.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.83-98
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• 2006

With the subjects of male consumers in their 20s to 40s living in the Ningbo area in Zhejiang Province, this study aims to investigate into the reality of their purchase attitude and size fitness of ready-made suits. The results are as follows; Looking into their demographic characteristics, 70.6% of the subjects were twenties, 60.6% were single, and educational career stood in the order of college, middle school, and high school graduation. They were largely absorbed in free trade, followed by teaching, commerce and service industry. 59.6% of them were Zhejiang Province belongs. One to two thousand yuan was the greatest portion of their monthly income. As for their purchase attitude of ready-made suits, they thought higher of material, quality, activity, and solidity than of design. They preferred to buy clothes at a department store. There was significant difference between purchase frequency and purchase price according to monthly income and jobs. Concerning brand recognition, the Chinese subjects favored "Youngor." Though Korea's brands were very lowly recognized, Korean products received really high recognition. Compared with China's brands, they found foreign brands excellent in design, followed by material/matter, wear, and sewing. As to their physical satisfaction and the size fitness of clothes, most subjects felt happy with their sizes. Trousers and jackets were among the unfitting suit items, while the girth of waist was the least satisfactory size. Therefore, in order to raise the market occupation rate of Korean suit goods in China, more aggressive marketing strategies are required to utilize the current Korean-style entertainment and maximize concerning brand images. In particular, outstanding products in consideration of prices should be made through the proper patternmaking to reflect the body types of the Chinese.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.60-70
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to survey the sales of brassieres positively those of elderly women's (aged 50 or older) ones in particular through 72 sales outlets and thereby, in order to present the more comfortable brassiere models which can serve to reinstate elderly women's constitution and provide the useful basic data to brassiere makers and distributors for their business. The results of this survey and the suggestions therefrom can be summarized as follows; 1) Brassieres usually sell at 10,000-20,000 wons, which allows for 15% or more margin rate. Brassieres are disposed through bargain sales once or twice every year where their price are discount 10% or higher. Meanwhile, the majority of the brassieres distributors maintain more than 15% stock rate. The accumulated stocks are primarily disposed through return to makers or bargain sales. About 15% of the brassieres sold are returned by consumers to distributors to be replaced. 2) About a half of distributors operate some or other types of sales education programs. Most of these distributors feel that their educational program have been effective which suggests the effectiveness of sales educational program. On the other hand, 83.3% of the distributors operate in-house repair shops, while the absolute majority of them brief their customers on how to wear brassieres or clean them. 3) Because elderly women's understanding of brassieres sizes is very poor, they tend to ask help of the 'sales people about their sizes before purchasing and proper one personally. In other words, it has been disclosed that old women respond positively to seller's recommendation for their brassiere sizes. 4) It has been found that the brasseries sizes purchased by old women most are. 85A, 90A and 85B in their order, which suggests that the most popular size for under bust circumference is 85~90cm, while their primary cup size is "A". 5) The type of brasseries favored most by elderly women is the "full-cup" type, while their most favorite brassiere design is a soft and simple one. The colors preferred most by them are white, beige and pink in their order. 6) When being consulted by elderly women, sales people experience various difficulties due to their poor understanding of sizes and complaint about prices. Lastly, it has been found through this survey that elderly women want to see some sales promotion material featuring their brassiere sizes and their production arid ask the brasseries makers to produce more diverse brasseries sizes.