• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.46
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• pp.67-88
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• 1999

텍스타일의 발전에 있어서 진보적 기술혁신은 합성섬유의 잠재력을 높이는데 큰 촉매 역할을 해왔는데 그 중 가장 두드러지게 성공적인 분야는 바로 스트레치 직물 분야이다. 스트레치는 그자체의 다양한 종류와 변화무쌍한 특성과 함께 스포츠 웨어, 캐주얼웨어 뿐 아니라 최근에는 정장류 남성복에 이르기 까지 그 사용범위와 미적 표현이 크게 증가되고 다양해졌다. 스트레치의 미는 기능적이고 편안하면서도 직물자체의 유동적인 특성과 함께 인체와 더불어 표출되는시각적 이미지가 현대미에 새로운 개념을 더하고있다는 데에 그 가치가 있다. 본 연구목적은 현대 패션디자인에 표현되어진 스트레치의 미적 개념과 가치가 무엇인가를 발견하는데 있다. 특히 섬유과학기술의 진보로 인한 스트레치 직물의 다양함과 그에대한 디자이너들의 패션철학과 디자인의 다양한 변화를 강조하고 나아가 다음세기를 위한 보다 나은 디자인의 방향을 제시해 보고자한다. 연구결과는 다음과같다. 1, 스트레치의 가장 두드러지는 현대적 미는 편안함과 기능성에 있다. 특히 스트레치 직물 자체가 더욱 가벼워지고 강해지면서 현대생활과 미래생활에서 가장 크게 중시되고 있는 comfortable & functional 의 이상적인 개념을 충적시켜 주고 있다. 2. 스트레치 직물의 유동적특징에서 대표적으로 나타난 스타일은 바디스트인데 이것은 스트레치 자체의 신축성이 기본적으로 인체곡선 위에서 표현되어진 것으로서 거의 비슷한 스타일의 uniformity 현상을 낳게 되었고 또한 인체선의 드러남으로 인해 'healthy'이미지 추구라는 현대미의 새로운 개념을 가져왔다. 2. 더욱 정교해진 스트레치는 결국 transparent look을 낳았고 또한 비치는 직물들을 겹쳐입는 layering 현상을 가져왔는데 이것은 현대적 순수미와 여성미가 시감각적 이미지로 표현되어진 것이라 할수 있다. 4. 스트레치가 되므로서 생기는 긴장은 다른 디자인 요소들에 대해서는 극히 단순한 것을 요구하면서 결국 simplicity를 동반하게 되었다. 5. 스트레치는 디자인 구성 요소들의 보다 작은 개념을 낳았는데 즉 더욱 좁아진 형과 작아진 사이즈 없어지거나 줄어든 다트와 구성선 그리고 그에따라 줄어든 공정과 낮아진 가격이다. 이 개념은 현대미의 minimalism의 한 현상으로 해석되어지며 스트레치 직물은 여기에 가장 부합되는 소재가 되었다. 6. 스트레치의 시각적 이미지는 그자체가 'easy' 'free'느낌과 함께 보편적이면서 미래적이다. 이상으로 볼 때 미래의 패션은 보다 진보적인 섬유과학발전에 힘입어 21세기의 새로운 환경에 잘 적응 할 수 있는 합리적이면서도 미적 가치가 내포된 인간에게 보다 친숙한 디자인으로 전개되리라고 생각되어진다.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.635-654
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• 2012

This paper studied sports-inspired fashion(SIF) that is often characterized as 'designer clothes inspired by active sportswear.' First, we reviewed the social, economical, artistic, and technological background behind its development. Second, we studied the development history of SIF by classifying it into four periods. Third, we analyzed how SIF emerged and developed with its own characteristics from a historical perspective. For a theoretical background, we did a critical review of previous literature in the field of clothing history, history of culture, and art history. We collected the data from magazines, such as Fashion Show and Gap Press and from the internet sources as well, such as firstviewkorea.com. We also did the content analysis of the data by consulting a chosen group of fashion designers. This study revealed that active sportswear started to develop from everyday clothes for functional convenience in the beginning and then SIF emerged later as a major fashion trend with the popularity of sportive look. This trend became stronger with the global spread of American popular culture. SIF eventually became high fashion with collaboration between sportswear industry and designers. This study confirmed that SIF reflects the characteristics of many sports games in silhouettes, colors, and details. It is predicted that sports will continue to be an important source of inspiration for fashion designers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.183-196
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• 2000

Andy Warhol is one of the great artists in the modern history of art who compares favorably with Picasso. His activities had his object on pervasion of a pop art and profit of the art industry. Many previous studies on his activities have attracted and held the attention of his works of art after 1960s. However in spite of his working as publisher of a fashion magazine fashion illustrator fashion model displayer and etc. in 1950s. there are few studies on his activities of 1950s. Hence this study investigates his works of art in 1950s. and intensively analyzes his effect on modern fashion. In 1950s, Andy Warhol had already been distinguished in works of art from other commercial designers through the illustration for advertising design window display of stores and usage of Hollywood stars as anessential element in his works for whom he had sighed when he was young His works were also characterized by a rejection of they originality of commercial arts. He had an great effect on youth's fashion in 1950s and has activities in 1950s had influence on the diffusion of the public punk fashion in 1970s and the street fashion in 1980s.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.4
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• pp.19-33
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• 1997

This study will analyze Karl Largerfeld's design of Chanel to suggest the designer's strategy succeeding haute couture. His significant stylistic interests include the revealed structure of the garment, the modifications between fine art and fashion, the combination of the traditional restraint of the couture with the flourishes of the wildest street fashions and effects that turn garments upsides down or insides out. The House of Chanel today recognizes that commercial success ultimately lies in re-working Chanel's signature designs in a modern idiom. That the essence of theses designs remains so desirable is due to Karl Lagerfeld's successful interpretation and is ultimately an accolade to the founder-Gabrielle Chanel. During the reign of Coco it would have been difficult for any woman who wanted to look young and modern to go wrong with her fashions. The same can be said of Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel today. Clothes with the Chanel imprimatur no doubt will remain just as fashionable into the twenty-first century.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.89-98
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is Korean fashion designers' tendency and degree to adopt and receive overseas fashion trends, as a founding work to suggest a direction for Korean fashion industry and designers to select and adopt overseas fashion trends. 204 survey results out of 270 ones from the same number of fashion designers in 68 brands, who work in domestic mass-fashion female-garment brands for more than 3 years, are used as final analysis data. For the data analysis, SPSS, ${\chi}^2$-verification, variable analysis and MANOVA are executed, and statistical significance is verified at significance level 0.05. Conclusions obtained from the result and discussions of study are as follows: 1) The periods for domestic fashion industry to need to adopt overseas fashion trends are during 1992-94, and 1986-88. 2) There are discrepancies of utilization of design factors per brand concept. 3) When a line which is not suitable to domestic consumers is presented as subject of fashion trend, there are difficulties to reflect, and per brand concept there are differences of reflection sequence. 4) Whether or not to develop independent themes is dichotomized per brand concept.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.9
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• pp.55-70
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• 2009

This study aims at analyzing the formativeness of women fashion shoes shown in the high fashion since 2000 along with the necessity of study for such purposes. Fashion shoes designed for the perfection of high fashion have been positioned as an important item to increase the value of fashion. Subsequently, three formative images through the research method under the literature study could be analyzed as follows. First, the Fetishism image appeared from 18th century and the shoe heel has the erotic internal beauty while attracting the erotic nature from the perspective of 'feet confinement'. The high heel came to have an absolute relationship with the feminine beauty, and the feet and shoes are accepted for the erotic symbol regardless of anyone in the East or West. Second, the fashion shoes in the Maximalism image to pursue for the dream and excitement at the same time have been shown at the same time by using various ornaments in an exaggerated manner for the use of ornaments to clothes through designs by shoe designers. Third, the Aristocratism image in the fashion shoes was remarkably highlighted with the use of materials from processing natural materials with the best quality, which was expressed in an exotic manner with roughness and comfort despite the nature of refinement balanced with the simple reactionary tendency and technical senses of handicrafts. It can be perceived that the inner emotions of human beings are expressed by intentionally dismantling the functions of shoes in terms of functionality even in the fashion shoes in completing the ideal images after which are pursued by people.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.9 no.4 s.32
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• pp.99-107
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• 2004

In a field of clothing fashion design within the country, CADs and diagraming programs are existed variously. However, Connection of producton line through the worksheet is insufficient. This research implement design and worksheet system grafted on database system. This system can be completed desige through the fashion design system and made out worksheet at the same time. Also, It is possible that designer utilize more quickly and easily find intend to use the data because this system provide retrieval function for existed data with user. A special feature of the system is easy interface(GUI) for user, support of tool for detail, utilize for stored data, printing support for off-line output, comfortable framework for record of clothes size and etc.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.81-95
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to research consumers' perception of the HiSeoul fashion show, which is being used by new designers as a means of promotion, and to propose a strategy for revitalizing new designer brands. This was done in order to secure basic data from fashion consumers, to help guide marketing strategies and promote rising designers. In this research, the consumers' perception of HiSeoul fashion show was verified using text-mining, data refinement and word clouding that was undertaken by TEXTOM3.0. Also, semantic network analysis, CONCOR analysis and visualization of the analysis results were performed using Ucinet 6.0 and NetDraw. "HiSeoul fashion show" was used as the keyword for text-mining and data was collected from March 1, 2018 to April 30, 2019. Using frequency analysis, TF-IDF, and N-gram, it was also shown that consumers are aware of places where shows are held, such as DDP and Igansumun. It was also revealed that consumers recognize rising designer brands, designer's names, the names of guests attending the show and the photo times. This study is meaningful in that it not only confirmed consumers' interest in new designer brands participating in the HiSeoul Fashion Show through big data but also confirmed that it is available as a marketing strategy to boost brand sales. This study suggests using HiSeoul show room to induce consumer sales, or inviting guests that match the brand image to promote them on SNS on the day the show is held for a marketing strategy.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.272-281
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• 2016

From the year 2000 on, Seoul has aimed to be a fashion city, and thus has been supporting young designers through Seoul Fashion Creative Studio, Generation Next, Le Dome, Concept Korea, etc. London is famous for nurturing young designers through the joint help of government, schools and industries: Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane and Peter Pilotto are successful cases. Therefore, this research aims to suggest a direction for policies aimed at helping young designers in the international market, on the basis of London's nurturing programs and ideas from a literature review and case studies. The results are below. Firstly, a step-by-step supporting program is recommended. Secondly, long-lasting, sustainable programs are considered essential to support designers after the end of their contracts. Thirdly, practical assistance is preferred to monetary funding in order to lighten the designers' lot and in the interests of transparency. The mentoring service should be strengthened for the designers to eventually become independent. The support should be tailor-made according to items. Fourthly, the supporting programs should be promoted. Fifthly, government and industries should collaborate. Sixthly, 'de minimis' against overlapped support should be legislated. For these, the change of supporting method can be helpful; an independent administrative organisation plans and collects funds from governments and companies. Through these programs and any subsequent studies, Seoul could become a fashion city where young designers play active roles at a global level.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.504-514
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• 2021

This study attempted to extract and structure the job skills required for 3D designers, which have been recently introduced to the fashion industry. The study aimed to materialize and objectify the 3D designer's job, using a focus group interview for the survey. The 3D designer has the TD task of making 3D virtual samples using the pattern files developed in Pattern CAD. Graphic design and fabric digitization are also major tasks for the 3D designer. CLO is mainly used for 3D virtual sample production, and PixPlant, Substance, Photoshop, Cinema 4D, Daz studio, and 3ds MAX are used for image and avatar editing. As per the job skills required for 3D design work, basic knowledge about patterns and sewing, skill in 3D virtual clothing technology, ability to use various software, and English skills were considered important, in that order. In particular, the need for knowledge about patterns and sewing became more important than the skill in 3D virtual clothing technology itself. To train 3D designers, it was found that not only 3D virtual clothing software, but also education on patterns and clothing construction, CAD developer's curriculum certification system, and 3D designer qualification management were required. In addition, 3D designers are recognized as an essential job in fashion vendors, and the demand for domestic brands is increasing. The biggest limitation of the 3D virtual clothing system is the perfection of the digital fabric. Also, technical improvement is needed.