• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.94-103
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• 2004

This study is to explore the '60s 'Retro' trend appeared in the 2003/2004 Fall ＆ Winter Pret-a-porter Collections which was held in the 4 major cities, Paris, Milan, London, New York on the February and March of the last year. It is often said that the '60s Retro trend is one of the most powerful fashion trends in the 2003/2004 season, and it really affects the modem fashion market nowadays. From this study, we can find that the '60s fashion mode certainly contains the 5 formative characteristics such as Minimal Look, Pop Art Fashion, Op Art Fashion, Space-Age Look, Femme-Enfant Style, and following these 5 characteristics of the '60s fashion mode the retrospective trend can be developed to finally create the '60s Retro Look presented in the 2003/2004 F/W Pret-a-porter Collections.

• 복식
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• 제55권3호
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• pp.108-121
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• 2005

The purposes of this study were to analyze hat design with the focus on the period from the 1990's to 2004 and to find out the development direction of next hat design. To do these purposes, the focus of theoretical approach was literature research, and hat design was attempted on the basis of the research. The focus of theoretical background was on previous research and fashion-related literature. Fashion Photos were picked up from all kinds of fashion magazines containing Haute Couture collection in Paris from the 1990's to 2004 S/S and some designers' collections. Then 1,381 photos were selected through two screenings. At first time, 1,500 photos were selected to have the relationship between clothes and hats, and finally 1,381 photos were picked.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제42권9호
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• pp.19-35
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• 2004

Creative design acquires value-added quality in fashion business. The anti-aesthetic Belgian designers who have been rebelling within strict rules are admired internationally, having reached the top-ten lists in the Journal do Textile in the 1990s. Moreover, they have set the trend in new progressive fashion. In the age of domination by marketing, these people have succeeded in, their integrity, their free spirits, and their passion for what they do. The interaction between their creativity, which is visible throughout their design process, and commercial interests is the key to the success of Belgian fashion. It is also noteworthy that the designing process is strongly linked together with flexible coordination. This analysis on the creativity of Belgian fashion design based on theoretical studies and interviews with Belgian designers from magazines and newspapers. The research includes the following main topics: 1. Analysis on the creativity of designing process. 2. Analysis on characteristics of Belgian fashion design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.296-308
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to understand Qipao, that Chinese traditional women's cloth, and analysis the aesthetic characteristics of that. Joining WTO in 2002 and 2008 Beijing Olympic made China get the attention by the world and get the opportunity that advent of China style. Chinese fashion cultural contents have abundant meanings in internal or external, therefore characteristics aesthetic of Chinese traditional fashion had much influence in world fashion design. Qipao that has influence in contemporary fashion design could be used special fashion design data for China market. A variety of literature and prior researches for Qipao's history and transition process was studied. Internal and external documents, fashion magazines, internet information were investigated to study features of Qipao. Total 20 seasons fashion collections from 2000S/S to 2009F/W was examined, and selected 22 brands that showed Qipao style, after then extracted 418 photos among them. By the seasons, Eit showed 193 pieces in S/S and 225 pieces in F/W, and was put to practical use in F/W season than S/S. The results are as follows. The contemporary fashion collections shown in the Qipao style silhouette, detail, color, material, pattern and the results obtained by each, were in all respects diversity. In silhouette, including traditional tight silhouettes, 'H' silhouettes, boxy silhouette was such a variety. The five colors traditionally preferred color from the color was more of a tendency to be gorgeous. Modern reinterpretation of pattern designs by graphic pattern that has emerged. Also, shown in a contemporary fashion collection Qipao style leather material in application utilizing the glossy feel of a plastic material and has emerged feeling.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.21-33
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• 2005

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of identical color coordination through the analysis of modern female fashion color coordination as they appear in the 'Collections'. Data collection of 2026 was done through review of '$pr\hat{e}t-\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of four cities; Milan, London, New York, Paris. Lastly, statistical analysis of frequency and $X^2$-test and also qualitative interpretation of identical color coordination characteristics were completed. The main findings were; The color coordination of modern women's fashion produces a unified theme, or monochromatic harmony, through the use and coordination of identical colors. The clear contrast of tones portrays a strong image especially in achromatic color coordination, and through the use of texture variation, monochromatic color coordination becomes even more compelling. The tone variation, observed most often in monochromatic color coordination was the black and white contrast, which enhances the simplicity and clarity. Within chromatic color combinations, tone on tone color coordination was achieved by varying brightness. Furthermore, the observation of Faux Camaeu indicates that the coordination of different textures is used often in identical color coordination. While achromatic colors can lead to a hard and rough feeling, it also is compensated through the use of varying textures. In addition, adding variety of textures can add subtle interests to the simplicity of white. Lastly, in all four collections, the chromatic identical color coordination was found more frequently than the achromatic. In Paris, N.Y. & London, the chromatic identical coordination was used more often than chromatic. Milan showed most use of achromatic coordination. The use of the tones showed similar trends in all four collections, with contrasting tone being used most often, followed by similar and identical tones.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.73-87
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• 2008

The main objective of this research was to investigate the characteristics of achromatic & chromatic color coordination of contemporary female fashion by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' of four collections (i. e. cities) - Paris, Milan, New York, London - from the periods of 2002 S/S to 2006/7 A/W. The data was collected by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' magazine and total 677 observations were made. Statistical analysis of frequency and also qualitative interpretation of achromatic & chromatic color coordination characteristics were completed. The main findings were; (1) The achromatic & chromatic color coordination was identified as one of most used color coordination in contmeporary women's fashion collections. (2) Black and white mainly used for achromatic color, and brown used the most often, then followed by blue, red, yellow, green and the others for chromatic color in achromatic & chromatic coordination of contmeporary women's fashion collections. (3) The characteristics of achromatic & chromatic color coordination of modern women's fashion collections from 2002 S/S to 2006/07 A/W showed various images according to chromatic colors and tone variation. The combination of achromaticand brown color variations produced an intelligent and sophisticated image. The soft or light chromatic color and chromatic color combination projected soft, feminine and subtle feeling, while the combination of vivid or strong chromatic color and achromatic color projected a clean and strong feeling through contrasting tones of clear and bright colors. The chromatic color of deep or dark tone and black combination demonstrated supernatural and gloomy image. (4)In all four collections, Paris showed most use of two color coordination and then followed by Milan, N.Y, and London. N.Y showed higher rate of using achromatic & chromatic color coordination, and then followed by Paris, London and Milan.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.155-167
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• 2009

This study reviewed the basic principle of "Maximalism" fashion and analyzed the properties of fashion types with found the frequencies of various styles and design factors of "Maximalism" fashion in collection. The limits of this study is from 2001, s/s, maximalism was embossed in a modem fashion, to 2007, f/w, and collected the fashion collection pictures from www.samsungdesign.net and www.style.com. The results of this study are as follows. First, the most frequent style of "Maximalism" design showed in International fashion collection was "exaggerated style." Second, the design factors of "Maximalism" fashion were also examined. In case of silhouette, "hourglass silhouette" was the most frequent silhouette. In case of pattern, "solid" color was the most frequently used. In case of materials, the soft materials were the most frequently used. Third, the frequencies of design factors of maximalism by presentation types was compared and analyzed. In case of expansion, "bulk silhouette" was the most frequent silhouette to be appeared, and about multi-ethnic, futurelism, and elegance, "hourglass silhouette" was frequent appeared. In case of pattern, "solid" color was the most frequently used in all types. In case of materials, the hard materials were the most frequently used in expansion, multi-ethnic and futurelism. "Maximalism" fashion which is most splendid trend would grow up rapidly in the modem fashion market and influence on the other fashion trend in our every day life. Consequently, this research can be referred as practical information in fashion marketing and it will contribute to the future fashion research as well.

• 복식
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• 제59권8호
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• pp.82-96
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to present the basic approach of producing the luxury fashion brands containing of the Korean traditional traits on the basis of traditional transformation with the modern concept, taking the 'Vivienne Tam' 2000's collections. This study has focused on its transformation of the traditional one of China, and made this as the subject of investigation. It's design characteristic could be defined as "modern interpretations of China chic", and it would be divided into two groups. The ingenious mixture of Chinese tradition into the modern chic could be concluded like these. The external characteristics is categorized in the three ways (1) the aesthetic application of the Chinese traditional patterns(dragon, water waves, peony, Japanese apricot flower, bamboo, bats, Chinese characters etc.), (2)the modern application of Chinese traditional costume details(front opening of Chipao, mandarin collar and knot buttons) and (3)the modernization of Chinese traditional technique(knotting, embroidery, beading and paper cutting). To deal with the internal characteristics, (1)the aesthetic mixture of East and West, (2)the formative expressions of the traditional view on the universe and religion are remarkable. The Chinese embodiment and the view of the universe and religion was integrated into the patterns of dragon, water waves, clouds, fire, woods, and metals. In order to afford the creative designer capable of encompassing the East and West, the teaching about the Korean tradition along with the technical and practical aspect of fashion is most important, while encouraging the professional designer to make a sophisticated ones which are attributed to the Korean tradition, and thereby come to be attractive to the world customer. The study about the Korean costumes, traditional colors, the symbolic meaning of the traditional patterns, cuttings, compositions, extending to the various kinds of myths, songs, paintings and crafts are essential for the Korean designer brand to be the global luxury brands.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.39-56
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to observe the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design, examine the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design in the collections of Jacquemus, and analyze their internal meanings. For research, observations were made based on the concepts and expressive characteristics of Deconstruction through prior research and literary review, and analysis was conducted focusing on the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction. The scope of analysis included a total of 605 photographs collected from a total of 17 season collections of Jacquemus from the 2013 S/S to the 2021 S/S season. The results are as follows. First, the Neo-Deconstruction of Jacquemus expresses the youth culture using bright images such as diverse colors and patterns with 'positive playfulness' and pass on positive messages with deconstructive and playful forms, such as exaggeration and reduction and recombination and reconstitution. Second, with tendencies of 'symbolic receptivity', Jacquemus gained inspiration from his own life, memories, and hometown, and attempted to express the street women of places such as southern France, Paris, and Monaco in a number of collections. Also, he proposed designs that can be worn easily by anyone, regardless of gender, and as plus size models began to become more common respect was given to the tastes and preferences of diverse individuals without distinctions based on body type or sexuality. Third, 'geometric simplicity' was generally expressed by pursuing simple and practical fashion with the addition of details, such as geometric forms including stripes or asymmetrical expressions centering around everyday material that is used in clothing. Fourth, with "open communication," Jacquemus constructed his identity by addressing the various needs of consumers based on social network services and continuously sharing his creative ideas with the public. He is gaining popularity in a unique way by responding quickly to the changing atmosphere of society.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.91-109
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• 2013

The main objective of this research was to understand the latest trends of natural print design through the quantitative & qualitative analysis of fashion appeared in contemporary female collections. The research criteria was defined as 3 seasons from 2011 S/S to 2012 S/S. Data collection of 726 was done through review of 'pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of three major fashion cities; Paris, Milan and NY. Statistical analysis of frequency with chi-square test was conducted. Also qualitative interpretation of natural print design' characteristics was completed. The main findings were as follows.; The average occurrence rate of natural print design from 2011SS to 2012 SS in three collections were 6.4% in Milan 6.4%, 5.5% in Paris and 6.8% in N.Y. The five source types of natural prints in contemporary women's fashion collections were identified and the order of their appearance were as follows: flowers, plants, animals, insects & marine organisms and compound one. The plant prints were expressed by stylized or realistic touch. Flower patterns showed more variables than plants, however, there were no big difference in their image and major characteristics. The animal prints demonstrated two aspects. First one used typical animal print of fur or skin, but the other one draw the animal figure like paintings. The compound source type presented the most interesting and fresh pattern design ideas. In the insects & marine organisms, mainly butterfly and seashell & starfish, etc. appeared as real shapes or sometimes were stylized.