• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권8호
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• pp.1100-1111
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the hair in aspects of gender and cultural/political ideology, and to confirm the meanings of hair style in modem fashion. There are three zones of social significance such as head hair, facial hair, and body hair, and each of theses zones has both gender and ideological significance. In aspects of gender, opposite sexes have opposite hair norms. And, in sociocultural standpoint, hair is a political symbol of the main protest movements in culture. The contemporary hair styles in fashion design mean that the ＇paying＇ with gender identity, the reflection of changing sexuality, the non-politicism, the fragmentation of style, and the naturalness.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.135-151
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• 2007

This study is human body measurement of 200 adult males in their 20s by both direct and indirect methods in order to reveal the representative male upper body types. Composition factors of body types were classified while the combination of direct-indirect measurement values was chosen. The following are the findings: 1) The analysis of direct-indirect measurement statistics showed the following results: 173.80cm (height), 69.87kg (weight), 95.58cm (chest girth), $24.67^{\circ}$ (right shoulder angle), and $9.34^{\circ}$ (shoulder width angle). 2) The factor analysis of the body types by direct measurement produced 5 factors: 1 (front length of upper body), 2 (front length of upper body), 3 (back length of upper body), 4 (circumference of upper body), and 5 (shoulders length). These factors accounted for 90.08%. Also, the cluster analysis of factor scores led to 3 types: 1 (33%, short, comparatively wide shoulders and full in the hips), 2 (25.1%, well-developed upper body in tall, inversed triangle), 3 (41%, average height, short upper body). 3) The body-type factor analysis by indirect measurement resulted in 6 factors with the explanation of 83.24%: 1 (rear upper bady thickness), 2 (front upper body width), 3 (front chest thickness), 4 (left-right shoulder angle), 5 (front width of protrusion distance in chest and shoulders), and 6 (neck's front-rear side angle).In addition, the cluster analysis of factor scores brought about 4 types: 1 (15%, well-developed front chest, beardless waist), 2 (23.5%, flat chest, with shoulder, drooping shoulders, strait neck), 3 (39%, with shoulder, curved back), and 4 (22.5%, narrow and thin, curved waist). 4) Among the 118 subjects (75%), 58 subjects commonly appearing in indirect measurement values group and direct measurement values group were chosen the representative body type group according to asterisk indexes. They had the highest frequency in direct type 3 and indirect type 3, whose combination represented the physical characteristics of the representative body types.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.101-110
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• 2005

Vivienne Westwood could be placed in a unique position in the contemporary fashion design. She has never belonged in a core group of mainstream fashion designer but not been always in an outsider position. She got from mainstream fashion designer circles enormous appreciation, even established fashion industry was influenced by her fashion design. She began her fashion design with rebellious T-shirts like 'destroy' T-shirt, chicken-bone T-shirt, and nipple-zipper T-shirt, all of which revealed her disgust against establishment. All these T-shirts testify her total negation tendency in her youth. However, she did not continue to keep such a kind of total negation attitude against establishment In 1980s she changed her political attitude towards establishment, and this change also found a reflection in her fashion design. In her pirate-collection the dark image of her fashion in the 1970s changed into a totally different bright image with full of gold colour. Although this collection had radiated brightness, it contained still outsider character from mainstream fashion design. The following fashion design in 1980s and 1990s evolved further on the line of Pirate-collection, but they continued to contain certain outsider characteristics. Vivienne Westwood kept some kind of anti-establishment attitude, and this attitude more or little came to the surface of her design. She was always political and critical to the establishment. In 2005, in her 64, she designed a liberty T-shirt, which showed her political attitude and her engagement in social issues. Also it showed the change from the early total negation to the constructive critical affirmation. In this paper the relation between the fashion design of Vivienne Westwood and her political attitude and the influence of her political attitude to her fashion design is analyzed.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.225-236
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• 2005

경기침체 및 정치 사회적인 불안심리를 익살맞은 아이템을 통해서 해소시켜보려는 신선한 시도로 재미(fun)가 디자인 분야에서 키워드로 떠오르고 있다. 본 연구는 현대 패션디자인에 반영되어 나타나는 재미의 다양한 활용을 주제별로 유형화하고 그 표현방법을 조형적으로 분석하여 패션디자인에 있어서 재미의 개념구조에 대한 본질을 규명하고자 하였다. 2001년 S/S부터 2005년 F/W컬렉션에서 발표된 디자인 중 유머를 표현하고 있다고 판단되는 디자인 412점을 연구자료로 산정한 후, 범주화하여 분석하였다. 연구 결과 패션디자인에서의 재미의 주제에 따른 유형은 해학, 키덜트, 아이러니, 풍자와 패러디, 스토리텔링, 놀이로 분류될 수 있었으며, 디자인의 조형적 특성은 화려한 색채, 실루엣, 문자, 오브제, 드로잉의 요소와 변형/과장, 부조화, 반복의 원리를 활용하고 있음을 알 수 있었다 또한 이러한 표현들은 전통적인 유머 이론인 부조화이론, 우월성 이론, 각성 이론과 상통하며, 긍정, 따스함, 엔터테인먼트, 젊음, 모순, 의외, 일탈, 암시, 공격, 설명, 그리고 주체에 있어서는 수동적 수용뿐만 아니라 놀이와 같이 능동적 체험을 제공하는 가치를 갖는다.

• 복식
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• 제53권1호
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• pp.143-157
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• 2003

본 연구의 목적은 (1) 1970년대 서양복식에 존재하는 오리엔탈리즘의 반향에 대해 정의하고, (2) 서양 복식을 통해 표출된 오리엔탈리즘의 의미를 당시 정치, 사회, 문화적인 측면과 연결하여 탐구하는데 있다. 이론적 틀로는 문화인류학 이론에서 유래된 Hamilton의 Unifying Metatheory of Clothing and Textile(1987)이 적용되었다. 연구 방법으로는 1970년부터 1979년까지 미국에서 발행된 총 142권의 VOGUE 잡지 중 80권을 분석하여, 오리엔탈리즘이 보여지는 45장의 패션사진을 자료로 추출한 후, 연도, 디자이너의 소속 지역. metatheory에 따라 분석하였다. 각 연도별로 오리엔탈리즘이 표현되는 정도와 방법은 다양하였다. 서양디자이너들은 동양의 전통의상을 거의 그대로 모방하거나 하나 이상의 국가들의 전통의상 디자인 요소들을 하나의 복식에 혼합, 표현하는 방법을 주로 보여주는 반면, 동양 디자이너는 전통의상을 포함한 자국의 다양한 문화적 요소들을 서양복식에 도입하여 표현하였다. 또한, 본 연구에서는 복식에서 보여지는 시각적인 면의 분석과 더불어, 1970년대 당시 미국의 정치. 사회, 문화전반의 상황과 복식에 있어서 오리엔탈리즘의 도입과의 영향관계가 파악되었다. 따라서, 복식을 연구함에 있어서 문화인류학적 이론과 같은 다른 분야의 이론의 적용은 복식을 새로운 측면에서 이해하는 넓은 안목과 통합적인 틀을 제공한다는 측면에서 가치가 있다고 사료된다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제44권2호
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• pp.295-309
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• 2020

In 2019, Japan announced trade regulations against Korean products; consequently, the sales of Japanese products in Korea dropped due to a Korean consumers' boycott. This study measured the Korean consumers' political consumption behavior toward Japanese fashion products. Unstructured text data from online media sources and consumer posted sources such as blog and SNS were collected. Text mining techniques and semantic network analysis were used to process unstructured data. This study used text mining techniques and semantic network analysis to process data. The results identified boycotting Japanese fashion products and buycotting alternative products and Korean brands due to consumers' political consumption. Two brand cases were investigated in detail. Online text data before and after the political action were compared and significant changes in consumption as well as emotional expressions were identified. Product related industry sectors were identified in terms of the political consumption of fashion: liquor, automobile and tourism industry sectors were closely linked to the fashion sector in terms of boycotting. More "boycott" and "buycott" fashion brands (reflected in consumer attitudes and feelings) were detected in consumer driven texts than in media driven sources.

• 한국정보통신학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국정보통신학회 2022년도 춘계학술대회
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• pp.2-5
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• 2022

딥러닝의 등장과 ICT(Information and Communication Technology)의 급속한 발전으로 정치, 경제, 문화 등 사회의 다양한 분야에서 인공지능을 활용한 연구가 활발히 진행되고 있다. 딥러닝 기반 인공지능 기술은 자연어 처리, 영상 처리, 음성 처리, 추천 시스템 등 다양한 영역으로 세분화된다. 특히, 산업이 고도화됨에 따라 시장 동향 및 개인의 특성을 분석하여 소비자에게 추천하는 추천 시스템의 필요성이 점점 더 요구되고 있다. 이러한 기술 발전에 발맞추어, 본 논문에서는 딥러닝 기반 '언어처리지능' 과 '영상처리지능'의 기술개발을 통해 정형 또는 비정형 텍스트 및 이미지 빅데이터로부터 속성 정보를 추출 추출하고, 분류하여 패션시장의 트랜드나 신규소재 등을 분석하고 소비자의 취향 분석을 통하여 '시장-소비자' 인사이트를 발굴하여, 스타일 추천, 가상 피팅, 및 디자인지원 등이 가능한 인공지능 기반 '맞춤형 패션 어드바이저' 서비스 통합 시스템을 제안한다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.104-118
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• 2011

Since Sirimavo Bandarinaike became the first female prime minister in 1960, women all over the world has been trying to break the highest glass ceiling. In a place where men had been dominating throughout history, women political leaders had to find a way to look the part by wearing power suits. Feminity was out of the question until the digital era of 21st century started. The world has evolved into a place where feminity could be strength instead of weakness. Now women political leaders are showing body curves, cleavage, using vivid and pastel colors, soft fabrics, elaborate details, accessories, long and curly hair. The padded shoulders of dark coloured power suits were replaced by soft colorful flowing feminine suits. Yulia Tymoshenko of Ukraine is the best example of 21st century woman political leader using feminity in her fashion style while enacting her role. When she first started politics in 1990's, she wore dark colored power suits like all other women political leaders did with short dark hair. As time passed her suits became more feminine with light colors and elaborate details. She has changed her hair into a neat braid, based on a traditional Ukrainian hair style. She used orange color for the Orange Revolution and white for pure image. Yulia Tymoshenko's fashion style as a way of role enactment showed professionalism, feminity, integrity, and ethnicity.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.23-40
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to explore the aesthetic characteristics of outerization phenomenon of contemporary fashion. Outerization, transforming underwear as outerwear, is one of the most dominant and widespread fashion trends in the dawning of new millenium. Fashion always exists for living body and tributes to express idealized beauty of human body and aesthetics of the era. If so, exploring the formative expressions and aesthetic characteristics of outerization would be an meaningful guideline to deduce changed relationship between fashion and body of the 21st century. The methodology of this study is to research of fashion collections such as Paris, Milan and New York which were held the first decade of new millenium, from 2000 Spring/Summer to 2009 Spring/Summer. The styles expressing outerization were selected and assorted based on the main formative expression. Then the aesthetic characteristics were classified. The way of expression of outerization is categorized into 4 parts ; Transition, Exposure, Transparency, and Deconstruction. Aesthetic Characters of outerization is classified 4 assortments as well ; Eroticism, Fun with parody and kitch, cyber culture, Gender politics, and Power fetish. Eroticism is the most clearly identified one. Coming out of underwear imply naked body itself, so it has erotic appeal. Fun is the second character. A pleasant sensation from the outerization of undergarments maximizes a disposition of play from parody, kitch, and cyber culture. The third is Gender Politics and it introspects how the society consumes woman body in history and modern times. Power Fetish, the last one, speaks for the female body with changed vision for femininity underneath the sphere of influence of feminism and post modernism, then emphasizes the subjectivity and independence of woman. From the research above, this study will help to understand the overwhelming outerization phenomenon and contribute to expansion of the horizon of the study of fashion aesthetics. It will serve fashion creative source through various outerization cases as well.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제48권2호
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• pp.233-253
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• 2024

This study analyzed differences between three-dimensional (3D) body scanning and manual measurements, aiming to assess whether 3D scanning can replace traditional anthropometric tools, such as tape measures and calipers. Data from 4,478 participants in the 8th Size Korea Project were analyzed, covering 43 measurement items. Since Given that the 3D and manual measurements were performed on the same subjects in the 8th Size Korea Project, it was possible to determine the correlation more accurately between the two measurement methods more accurately. Using Applying ISO 20685-1(2018) standards, 15 out of the 43 items fell within allowable error limits. When classified into six types, "small circumferences" and "segment lengths" showed averages of 3.35 mm and 3.10 mm, respectively, within acceptable range. "Body heights" and "body depths" slightly exceeded the limit, with averages of 5.28 mm and 6.58 mm. "Body widths" and "large circumferences" surpassed the limit, with means of 16.77 mm and 16.18 mm. The study offers an objective basis to for validate validating 3D measurements' measurements' reliability and accuracy, addressing various industries' needs for information on the human body's dimensions information.