• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.627-639
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• 2023

This study seeks to increase the satisfaction of elderly men when purchasing and wearing ready-to-wear clothes by designing a slacks pattern suitable for their body type, which is determined by analyzing their lower bodies using virtual avatars and 3D virtual simulation system. The study found the following. First, based on virtual visualization of the comparison slacks pattern, the waistline position was consistently the lowest scored question among the evaluation survey items. Interpretation of this dissatisfaction suggests that, because the front waistline falls below the abdomen, the lower body, and especially the abdominal shape, is unpleasantly emphasized. Second, by using a virtual simulation system, the study developed a new slacks pattern that considered the concerns of elderly men. The primary measurement changes were as follows: front waist girth W/4+1.5cm+0.5cm, back waist girth W/4+1.5cm-0.5cm, front hip girth H/4+2.5cm-0.5cm, back hip girth H/4+2.5cm+0.5cm. Third, the new slacks pattern's appearance was evaluated more highly than the comparison pattern, confirming the new pattern's appropriateness for elderly men. This study demonstrates how slacks and other clothing patterns designed in a 3D virtual garment simulator can be used to design more appealing clothing for elderly men, increasing the satisfaction of wearing ready-made clothes at older ages.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.615-625
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• 2023

This study aimed to analyze the characteristics of the lower-body shape of middle-aged males with abdominal obesity by type and consider dimensional distribution to present a suit-pants size. The criteria were having a waist circumference greater than 90 cm and a waist-to-hip ratio(WHR) greater than 0.90; a total of 566 middle-aged males were surveyed. The findings revealed that, first, compared to standard lower-body types, the average body size of abdomenobese middle-aged males was significantly larger, especially in the horizontal area than in the vertical ares. Second, through a cluster analysis, a total of three categories of abdominal obesity were defined: small oval, large cylinder, and trapezoid type. The coverage rates of each type were 93.8%, 75.9%, and 93.0%, respectively. Finally, the suit-pants size system established according to lower-body types indicated the basic body size and reference body size were different for each type and also for the KS K 0050 male adult's garments size system. According to the definition of abdominal obesity, the types of abdominal obesity and the dimensions of each area are different, even if they belong to the same obesity group, suggesting that it is necessary to develop a pattern based on the analysis of obesity types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.12 s.148
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• pp.1582-1594
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to rediscover the value of form in fashion design by developing a new perspective of design appreciation. By examining and modifying the theories of Wolfflin and Belong, this paper tries to of for a new perspective for analyzing the characteristics of form in fashion designers' works. The three new perspective, Flat & Rounded, Closed & Opened and Part & Whole, can be used to analyze the formative aesthetic character of Vionnet's and Dior's works. Ten of Vionnet's and eleven of Dior's representative works selected and applied Delong's visual priority diagram to analyze their character. Vionnet and Dior, emphasized form and construction in their design and applied geometric shapes in their works. The main differences between Vionnet and Dior is that Vionnet's work transforms from geometric shapes in 2-dimentional space to drapery shapes in 3-dimensional space, Dior's work displays geometric shapes in 3-dimensional space. Vionnet created new formative art through the relationship between the clothes and human body. Vionnet's work has distinctively different qualities depending on whether the space is 2-dimensional or 3-dimensional showing transposition of form. In 2-dimensional space, Vionnet's works consist of triangles, rectangles and circles which are 'flat' and 'closed' in quality. These transform to solid forms by draping bias fabrics, which have a 'rounded' and 'open' quality. Dior tended to show artificial form rather than the natural lines of the body which is very different with Vionnet. Dior created clothes by using solid geometric form such as spheres, prisms, cylinders, pyramids and cubes in 3-dimensional space, which were visualized through constructive technique such as dart manipulation, boning, gathering, tucking, pleating, shirring and layering. Dior's works have their own form which does not relate with body shape. So his Works have a 'rounded' and 'closed' quality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.23-38
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics of the Minimal Art represented in the second half 20th century fashion. All the mode of dress worn this century have developed from the stimulus of a chang-ing society fired by new discoveries and a zest for the new and different. It would appear that even more dramatic changes will soon occur in our clothing styles the effects of which will be farreaching. Many of today's styles intended to dress our psyche rather than our bodies and this if fully understood by the new designers whose influ-ence will become increasingly more potent as we approach the new century. The highly developed material civilization resulted in human alienations environmental distruption, l By this fact human being of the 20th century was to overcome social com-plexity. Accordingly their search for simplicity was interested in the 60's style. Especially the formativeness of the 60s style was repre-sented in the second half 20th century fashion. In this paper it was focused that how the characteristics of the Minimal Art was expressed in the second half 20th century fashion. minimalism was a quest for basic elements repesenting the fundamental esthetic values of art. without regard to issues of content. At its most extreme it reduced art not ot an eter-nal essence but to an arid simplicity. "Primary Structure" the most suitable name suggested for this type conveys its two salient characteristics : extreme simplicity of shapes and a kinship with architecture. minimalist works are charcterized by huge dimensions coldness and absolute aesthetic neutrality. minimalist artists ambition is to de-fine through the most rudimentary materials such as plywood galvanized iron aluminum plastic and wood a new order of the space. The environment is just as important as the object itself. Similary the use of new tough materials. such as vinyl metal and plastic at late half of the 20th century fashion related to the formativeness of the Minimal Art. And the style of 20th fashion was holded the internal meanings in common the formativeness of the Minimal Aet thorough the various texture pat-tern silhouette etc.uette etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.65-77
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• 2003

Due to the rapid changes occurring in many aspects of contemporary society, the need for a means to actively combat widespread feelings of emptiness and alienation among the public, while satisfying its visual pleasure, is increasing. Thus the need for humorous elements which bring freedom to the human psyche is urgently requested. Of course, the field of fashion cannot be left out in this trend, and humor image design is a good example of this. Humor image in fashion endeavors to release the tension accumulated in the modern world, while trying to find a way to recover the original pureness of mankind. Another aspect currently important is computers. The creation of images in modern visual art relies a lot upon computers. Traditional visual processes such as painting, photography and video are now merged within digital technology. and are now quite symbiotic to each other. With the development of computers came computer art. which uses all applicable functions of a computer to create art. Any artistic action which uses a computer in any stage of its creation can be called computer art. The common factor in humor and computer art in modern fashion can be classified as follows : repetition, deformation and distortion. exaggeration and abridgement. juxtaposition. and Tromp l'oeil. This study has placed its objective on the fusion of humor image fashion and computer art, by manufacturing a work with humor and computers, two important aspects of modern culture. Expanding the field of fashion design while promoting creativity In fashion by finding a verging point between art and science is also necessary. I have designed and made five costumes using the above cited techniques in computer humor images, on a theoretical basis.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.23
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• pp.111-130
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was to illuminate eroticism represented din modern fashion. Art based on sex is very important like all of the other cultural values. But we feel that erotic art, neglected, suppressed , and persecuted for centuries, has an important contribution to make to the understanding of art, the social history of mankind, and human happiness and progress. It is our deep personal conviction that erotic art serves important social and therapeutic functions. Erotic art expresses the demand for sexual freedom-a freedom vital to individual happiness and mental well-being, And sexual freedom, in turn, cannot exist without a high degree of political and economic freedom as well. In that sense , erotic art came a truly revolutionaly message ; it demands no less than extension of freedom , not only in the sexual are, but in every sphere of social life. What is eroticism \ulcorner Eroticism must be distinguished from a mere animal reproduction . Eroticism is deeply rooted in the cultural tradition of myth, religion , customes and art. It also has a close relationship with psychological activities of our life. Eroticism is a kind of psychological revolution in the development of human civilization. Eroticism is related to different kinds of art, which express internal spirit of human especially Surrealism. Surrealism is above all a movement of the conquest and deepening of the unconscious. The exploitation of Freud's discoveries opended a new, practically unlimited path for artistic studies to Surrealism . Especially all theory of mental psychoanalysis a affected artists greatly in western art, Freud was appraised highly on his achievements by art critics in art history on his achievements by art critics in art history. As far as erotic subject matter was concerned, Surrealism provided a means of presentig it. Pop Art is not actually a movement , born at a specific time and place, nor is it an easy concept to define. The term first appeared in Great Britain during the fifties, when it referred, particularly in the decorative arts, to an inclination to go back and imitate the stereotyped images of the mass media : film, advertising , cartoons, and other popular consumer products. The eroticism expressed in Pop Art calls the modern's attentions to their devastated minds, taking advantage of the commercialized sex. Fashion has developed constantly reflecting the spiritual aspiration and social and cultural phenomona of man , and artistic steam. Eroticism in fashion is the style which expresses the internal meanings of sexuality through the texture, color, pattern , silhouette etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.9
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• pp.120-135
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• 2010

Since emotion, creativity, and imagination has become the source of creating added value, the purpose of this study is to grasp the concept of high concept which has appeared as a major key word of modern culture and analyze the types of emotional expression found in modern fashion. Study methods were focused on literature review and case study. The literature review was conducted by news stories at home and abroad. The examples of case study were collected in fashion collection journals and related Internet web sites with their focus on from 2000 S/S to 2009 F/W to analyze emotional expression found in high concept-reflected fashion. The concept of 'high concept' suggested by Pink, Daniel H. lays on stress on ability to creative emotional value or cultural artistic value hidden behind the functional value, to make stories, and to combine ideas which do not seem to be connected with existing things. As a result of study, The forms of emotional expression found in high concept-reflected fashion included: art collaboration and art inspiration which were expressed through cross-category of culture and art; multi-culture design which expresses a mixture between western fashion and oriental costumes; funology design which expresses efficient value by high technology and fun value through humorous elements; and emotional digital design which can be transformed in function, shape and the use of materials representing light which is effectively used for fashion to represent fantasy or illusion connected with digital technology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.7
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• pp.70-83
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• 2007

Contemporary fashion design has been made a new attempt to extend restricted expressions through fusion with other genres in art. The recognition of fashion has recently been changed not only product but as a piece of work in specific value, concept and meaning created by fashion designer. It is observed that the contemporary fashion design has a notion to persue formative intentions and manners of Conceptual Art in Post-modern era. This study is to define this region of fashion design represented in cultural phenomena as 'Conceptual Fashion', also analyze the formative feature of this from a point of view in Conceptual art. The results which are analyzed according to outward techniques and forms, meanings and elements immanent in aesthetic contemplation of conceptual fashion lead to four distinctive things in such as anti-form, intervention and appropriation, metaphor and detour, process and series. The intrinsic values in conceptual fashion through aesthetic contemplation are indicated the four significant values in the following: the pluralistic interpretation, the parody and amusement, the pursuit of essence and truth and the participation and interaction. Conceptual fashion design is appeared complex not doing separate through classified formative features previously. And It has been evolved as a indeterminate concept which is able to variable elucidation by a non-player, as a instrument for communication on fashion culture which is aggrandized. The purpose of this study is to present of theoretical foundation about Conceptual fashion design and also to make proper understanding about interrelationship between contemporary fashion and art.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.771-786
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• 2020

This study aims to develop a life-friendly, wrap-one-piece style dance sports practice wear considering the physical characteristics of middle-aged, abdominally obese women. These types of practice wear allow people to enjoy exercise easily and to wear these garments as daily wear while meeting the requirements for dance sports wear. The three participants selected for this study were all women with five or more years of dance sports experience and were all average sized on Korea's abdominal obesity scale. In the first phase of the study, practice wear was created in a total of nine styles with three different styles of neckline depths for three different styles of dress skirt lengths. In the second phase of the study, the practice wear was created in 15 styles with five different styles of sleeve lengths for three different styles of waistline heights. After analyzing the design preferences of the participants, the fit preferences of the designs were evaluated and the final appearance was analyzed in order to suggest a pattern. The results of the subjects' first and second preference evaluations showed a preference for a 10 centimeter neckline depth, for high waistlines, and for elbow to wrist-length sleeves. The implementation of this research is expected to be extensive, as its results can be used as basic data for making lifestyle dance sports practice wear that covers the physical insecurities of middle-aged, abdominally obese women and enables them to enjoy their leisure time.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.361-373
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to contribute to the role of lines in creative design development by analyzing the expression types and aesthetic characteristics of modern fashion using geometric formativeness of symmography. A literature study was conducted of works since 2009 to examine the general consideration of lines together with analysis of the concept and characteristics of symmography in the formative arts field, and to analyze the expression types and aesthetic characteristics of modern fashion design using the formativeness of symmography. The infinite sense of formativeness and original expression of symmography are used in formative arts such as space design, installation art, and industrial design. Expression types of modern fashion design using geometric formativeness of symmography can be classified into the following three types: two-dimensional graphic pattern, relief surface, and three-dimensional spatial. First, the two-dimensional graphic pattern type forms an optical pattern, providing individuality and visual interest to the textile design. Second, the relief surface type expresses the plane in various ways, so that the thickness changes according to how lines overlap. Third, the three-dimensional spatial type expands the boundaries of clothing and creates a fantastic spatial beauty. Next, the aesthetic formativeness of fashion design using symmography can be classified into repetitive rhythmicity, geometric self-similarity, and optical spatiality. Symmography enables a myriad of geometric patterns to be developed depending on material, color, and the designer's imagination, and helps inspire a variety of designs in fashion that sculpt a three-dimensional human body.