• Title/Summary/Keyword: 패션과시성

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밀리터리 패션에 나타난 성적 이미지 연구 - 1990년대 여성복을 중심으로 -

  • 이화정;채금석
    • Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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    • 2001.04a
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    • pp.41-41
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    • 2001
  • 본 연구는 1990년대 밀리터리 패션에서 성적 이미 지의 표현양상을 살펴보고 각각의 미적 특성과 형성 요인을 분석하여 현대 여성의 다양한 미적 가치와 미의식을 이해하고자 한다. 1, 2차 세계대전을 계기로 자연스럽게 등장한 밀 리터리 패션은 20세기 초반에 여성의 사회참여와 지 위 향상으로 인해 실용성과 기능성을 추구하였고 중 반에 들어서면서 히피와 젊은 세대들에 의해 반전운 동의 일환으로 입혀져 안티패션의 의미를 내포하게 되었으며 후반에는 포스트모더 니즘으로 인해 다양성 을 추구하는 복고풍의 패션 트랜드로서 각종 컬혜션 에서 부각되었다. 그 결과 밀리터리 패션은 기존의 남성적 이미지뿐만 아니라 여성적 이미지도 표현하 게 되었다. 이러한 밀리터리 패션에 나타난 성적 이 미지는 권위적 이미지와 공격적 이미지의 남성적 이 미지와 보수적 이미지와 과시적 이미지, 관능적 이미 지의 여성적 이미지로 표현되어 나타났다. 남성적 이미지는 자유주의 페미니즘과 관련하여 남성 중심적 사고 방식에 도전하고자 하는 여성들의 자아의식이 한층 강하게 작용한 일종의 반 패션 현 상으로 권위적 이미지와 공격적 이미지로 특정지을 수 있다. 첫째, 권위적 이미지는 주로 고전적 군복과 제복의 이미지를 차용해 군복이 가지는 권위와 위엄을 표출 하였으며 남성 우월주의에 기초한 영웅주의를 가시 적으로 표현하였다. 이는 떳떳하게 자신의 위치를 세 우고자 하는 여성들의 욕구를 대변하였으며 영웅주 의와 가부장제도가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 둘째, 공격적 이미지는 권위적 이미지에 대한 저 항과 기존의 성 정체성에 대한 저항으로써 전위적인 형태와 해체적인 표현으로 본래의 위엄있는 군복의 이미지를 무너뜨려 남성다웅의 표면적인 메시지를 약화시키고자 하였으며 반체제 정신, 성 정체성에 대 한 저항, 해체주의가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 여성적 이미지는 급진주의 페미니즘과 관련하여 여성 본래의 성을 부각시키고 여성이 주체가 된 여 성중심적 사고로 여성의 감성적 심리를 패션을 통해 표현하고자 하였으며 보수적 이미지, 과시적 이미지, 관능적 이미지로 특징 지을 수 있다. 첫째, 보수적 이미지는 남성적 영역이라고 믿어왔 던 군복에 여성성을 강조하여 가늘고 유연한 실루엣 과 곡선적인 라인, 색채. 심플한 디테일만으로 밀리 터리 패션을 표현하여 남성중심의 이데올로기에서 벗어나 여성도 사회의 중심이 될 수 있음을 시사하 였으며 남성 권위의 추락이 그 형성요인으로 작용하 였다. 둘째, 과시적 이미지는 전통적 군복이 과거의 상 류층 엘리트들만의 아이템이었듯이 현대의 여성들은 신분과 매력의 과시를 표현하고자 금속 단추나 벨트 등 기타장식을 부각시킨 밀리터리 패션을 착용하였 으며 엘리트층에 대한 동경이 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 셋째, 관능적 이미지는 신체의 간접적인 노출과 직접적인 노출을 통해 여성의 신체에 의한 에로틱한 관능미를 부여하고자 하였으며 나르시시즘과 보이고 자 하는 욕구, 성적 유희가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 그러므로 밀리터리 패션에 나타난 성적 이미지에 관한 연구는 패션을 통해 자아를 표현하고 미적으로 자기완성의 방편을 삼으려고 한 현대 여성들의 가치 관과 미의식을 이해하며 이를 충족시키고자 하는 패 션 트랜드와 디자인 개발에 도움이 될 것이다.

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국내 주얼리 소비자들의 구매행동에 관한 연구

  • 이승희;부정화
    • Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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    • 2003.09a
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    • pp.114-115
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    • 2003
  • 본 연구는 패션 주얼리를 이용하는 소비자특성(과시소비, 패션리더, 상표충성도, 물질주의)과 주얼리 소비자들의 구매행동을 알아보는 데 그 목적이 있다. 연구의 대상은 서울과 서울근교에 거주하는 20대에서 50대까지 성인여성 중에 On-line(TV 홈쇼핑, 인터넷쇼핑, 카달로그쇼핑)과 Off-line (백화점, 대형할인점, 프랜차이즈 주얼리 브랜드상점, 동네 주얼리 상점)의 패션 주얼리 점포를 통해 패션 주얼리를 구입해 본적이 있는 성인 여성만을 선택하였다. (중략)

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A Study on the Symbolism of Jeans Fashion -Focusing on the Designer Brand- (진즈패션의 상징성 연구 -해외 디자이너 브랜드를 중심으로-)

  • 김민정;채금석
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.7
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    • pp.155-166
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    • 2002
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the types of jeans fashion in the basis of designer brand. and to analyze the symbolic characters of jeans fashion. Designer brand re-established jeans fashion by compounding high cultural factors and low cultural factors. broke up the boundary between street fashion and high fashion. and escaped from fixed idea on materials and design. This study divides the types of jeans fashion within the designer brand into classifications of Hippie style, Punk style, American Street style, Neo-classic style, and Grungy style. Today, reinterpreting the resistant image of jeans fashion, designers creates the various styles and also restores the upscale image of it. The symbolic characters of jeans fashion are summerized as sexuality, deconstructiveness, conspicuousness, humour, and multiculturalism. As the results of the symbolic characters of jeans fashion in the new Millennium era will suggest the wide aesthetic expression and continue to influence a more diverse jeans fashion trends.

A Study on Differences in Fashion Consumption Behavior According to MBTI Personality Indicators and Fashion Brand Sensibility (MBTI 성격 지표와 패션 브랜드 감성에 따른 패션소비성향 차이 연구)

  • Ha Youn Kim;Yunjeong Kim
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.27 no.5
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    • pp.44-59
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    • 2023
  • This study aimed to elucidate any differences in fashion consumption tendencies among fashion consumers according to their MBTI personality types and fashion brand sensibility (Chanel vs. Off-White). Differences in fashion consumption tendencies (fashion sensitivity, fashion innovativeness, and fashion ostentation) were determined based on two of MBTI's four bipolar indicators: extroversion-introversion, sensing-intuition, thinking-feeling, and judging-perceiving. It was found that intuitive consumers showed higher fashion innovativeness than sensory consumers. In addition, feeling-type consumers showed more fashion-sensitive and ostentatious fashion consumption tendencies than thinking-type consumers. Fashion brand sensibility acted as a moderator in the relationship between personality type and fashion consumption tendency. Especially, moderating effects of fashion brand sensibility and fashion consumption tendencies were evident in sensing-intuition and judging-perceiving types. Among intuitive consumers, those who preferred Chanel brand sensibility exhibited higher tendencies for fashion ostentation than those who preferred Off-White brand sensibility. However, sensory type consumers showed no difference in fashion ostentation based on their preferred fashion brand sensibility. Interaction effects regarding fashion sensitivity and fashion innovativeness were not found. Among perceiving-type consumers who preferred Chanel brand sensibility, high fashion sensitivity was evident. Conversely, judgment-type consumers who preferred Off-White brand sensibility showed high fashion sensitivity. Interaction effects concerning fashion innovativeness and fashion ostentation were not found.

현대패션에 응용된 후프(Hoop)에 관한 연구

  • 정경희;배수정
    • Proceedings of the SOHE Conference
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    • 2003.10a
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    • pp.77-77
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    • 2003
  • 본 연구의 목적은 후프(hoop)의 기원 및 변천과정을 고찰해보고 시대별로 후프의 유형을 분류한 후, 포스트모더니즘 이후 더욱 다양해진 후프가 현대패션에서 어떻게 응용되고 있는지를 살펴봄으로써 후프의 역사적ㆍ미적 가치를 재인식하여 오늘날 복식디자인에 창조의 영감을 줄 수 있는 하나의 모티브를 제시하는데 있다. 후프가 발생하였던 르네상스시대에는 신 중심에서 인간중심으로 사고가 변화하면서, 복식에 있어서도 인간의 신체미를 과시하려는 의도로 인체의 실루엣을 과장ㆍ확대하고자 하였다. 따라서 속옷의 중요성과 역할에 따른 심미적인 기능이 복식에 절대적으로 필요하였고, 뿐만 아니라 기교적인 면에서 속옷에 요구되는 장식성은 어느 시대보다 절실하였다. 그 결과 겉옷이 확대되고, 이에 따라 속옷도 인체를 크게 보일 수 있는 후프가 고안되었다. 후프는 스커트를 부풀리기 위해 철사나 고래뼈 등을 세공하여 만든 테를 넣은 속치마를 말한다. 16세기 중엽 스페인에서 유행한 종형의 파딩게일(farthingale)을 시초로, 영국과 프랑스에서는 드럼형의 휠 파딩게일(wheel farthingale)과 오쓰뀌(hausse col)가 유행하였다. 17세기 초기에는 후프를 착용한 16세기 복식이 유행하였으나, 1625년 이후 슬림한 스타일의 17세기 복식이 유행하자 후프의 착용은 점차 쇠퇴하였다. 18세기에는 파니에(panier)가 유행하여 옆을 부풀린 스커트의 실루엣을 형성하였고, 19세기에는 크리놀린(crinoline), 벗슬(bustle)이 유행하였다.

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A semiological analysis on the relationship between popular music and fashion style exposed in Subculture (하위문화에 나타난 대중음악과 패션의 기호적 해석)

  • Kim, Shin-Woo;Jeon, Jong-Chan;Kim, Young-In
    • Archives of design research
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    • v.18 no.1 s.59
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    • pp.233-244
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    • 2005
  • Fashion is one of the characteristics which represents the comtemporary sociocultural signifiant. A style that a certain stream of fashion brings is not just limited in fragmentary tendencies and fads. That can be a code to communicate and function as a medium in itself. Music has been displaying it's power to fashion while fashion has been exercising it's influence over the music. There is an inseparable relationship between music and fashion in terms of expressing our images of the world: fashion delivers them through visuality and music does it by sound. Both fashion and music are reflecting our society as well as they are influencing on sociocultural aspects generally. Whenever music has been changed new youth culture has been made and this culture has been expanded with forming some distinct fashion trends. The study focuses on identifying the relations between pop music and fashion styles which are occupying positions firmly on the bases of youth culture through analysing the relations between the fashion styles and music genres which are used in sub-culture groups to express their own identities and consciousness from a point of semiotics. In conclusion, subculture is the exit of their escaping from the compelling inconsistency cause by the condition of people's life and the way for them to solve through cultural sublimating for themselves. People come up with distinctive style of music and fashion to express their resistant signifie in their symbolic way. In addition, a particular music trend has much to do with a contemporary fashion style. In the relationship between music and fashion, there have been the subtle mechanism to boost and influence and some crucial similarity each other to signify inner values of the times. This study lets us realize that fashion is not only a popular style of clothes, hair, etc. at a particular time or place but also a medium to communicate and to guarantee polysemous identity by functioning as a flexible tool to exchange contemporary sociocultural meanings.

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A Study on the Formative Feature Characteristics of Korean Jeans Fashion (한국 진즈 패션의 조형성에 관한 연구)

  • Choi, Hae-Joo
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.8 no.3
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    • pp.101-111
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    • 2006
  • Jeans fashion in contemporary fashion has various meanings and values, and the importance of it increases. The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative feature characteristics and the aesthetic values of Korean jeans fashion. Fashion photograghs from leading monthly fashion magazines from 2000 to 2005 were analyzed. The types of styles and the formative feature characteristics and the aesthetic values of Korean jeans fashion were studied. The major conclusions of the study are as follows 1. The types of Korean jeans fashion styles were western style, punk style, neo classic style and ethnic style. 2. The characteristics of Korean jeans fashion designs were the varieties in material, color, technique of expression and application. 3. The formative feature characteristics were traditionalism, sexualism, extraordinarily and exhibitionism. Korean jeans fashion has developed creative and decorative designs through various designs and styles. As the activities of the people can be increased in the future, the function and the design of jeans fashion can be developed diversely.

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A Study on Image Preferences of Fashion Product According to Life-Style Groups -Focused on Middle-Aged Women between 35 and 59 Years Old- (라이프스타일 유형에 따른 패션 제품의 이미지 선호도(제 1보) -35$\sim$59세 중년 여성을 중심으로-)

  • Shim, Jung-Hee;Ywoun, Myeong-Heum
    • Archives of design research
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    • v.20 no.1 s.69
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    • pp.143-154
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate fashion product image evaluation according to life-style groups of middle-aged women. The subject of investigation was 352 middle-aged women from 35 to 59 living in Daegu by random sampling method in April and May, 2005. The investigation was carried out by questionnaires which were composed of 3 sections: Fashion product image measure, Life style research and demographic variables(age, academic background, occupation, monthly clothing allowance, monthly income). The statistical methods to analyze the data were frequency, percentage, average, factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range test. The results are summarized as follows: 1. As a result of factor analysis for fashion product image, the four factors including noble image, bold image, practical image, female image were extracted. 2. Middle-aged women were classified into four life-style groups including tradition oriented group, negative oriented group, activity oriented group and appearance oriented group. 3. Significant differences in fashion product image preferences according to life-style groups were found. Tradition oriented group preferred noble image and practical image. Negative oriented group tended to pursue practical image. Activity oriented group pursued a bold image. Appearance oriented group liked a noble image the best and then noble image, bold image in order.

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A Study of Emotional Consumption Propensity and Preferences for Sensibility Factors of the Fabrics (감성적 소비성향과 패션소재의 감성요소에 대한 선호도 연구)

  • Kim, Yeowon;Choi, Jongmyoung
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.19 no.3
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    • pp.27-42
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    • 2016
  • The purposes of this study were to investigate the emotional consumption propensity and the preferences for sensibility factors of fabrics(color tone, pattern and texture image), and to analyse the differences according to demographic variables and relationships between emotional consumption propensity and preferences for sensibility factors of fabrics, focusing on male and female consumers in 20's, 30's and 40's. The emotional consumption propensity were classified into symbolic consumption propensity, individual consumption propensity, aesthetic consumption propensity and hedonic consumption propensity. The subjects attached great importance in the order of aesthetic consumption propensity, individual consumption propensity and symbolic consumption propensity. Those factors of emotional consumption propensity showed partially significant difference according to demographic variables. Female consumers preferred various color tones than men did, and preference for light color tone showed significant differences according to gender and occupation of consumers. The preferences for floral pattern showed significant difference according to gender, age, education, occupation and marital status of consumers. The factors of the texture images for the fabrics showed partially significant difference according to demographic variables except education of consumers. There were almost significant relationships between emotional consumption propensity and the preferences for sensibility factors for fabrics.

A Study of College Students' Consumption Behavior from the Midwest(Yunnam) in China(Part I): The Effects of Materialism on the Consumers's Attitudes and Clothing Purchase Behaviors (중국 중서부 지역(운남성) 대학생들의 소비행동 연구(제1보): 물질주의성향에 따른 소비자태도와 의복구매행동분석)

  • Lee, Okhee;Kang, Youngeui
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.18 no.1
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    • pp.50-65
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    • 2014
  • This study investigates the effect of demographics and materialism on the consumers's attitudes and clothing purchase behaviors. The subjects compose of 302 college students living in Yunnam, China. The mean, ANOVA, factor analysis, Duncan test were used for statistics analysis. According to our results, the factors of materialism, symbolic consumptions, and attitude toward fashion luxury products are identified: three factors of materialism (success symbols, practical living, and happiness pursuing), three factors of symbolic consumption (conspicuous, hedonic, communication), and five factors of attitudes toward fashion luxury products (quality, involvement, ostentation, luxurious aspect, pleasure). Among the demographics, gender, income, social stratification, father's education and job influenced the symbolic consumption, and desire's fashion luxury products. In addition, gender, income, social stratification, father's education and job influence the clothing selection standards and the extent of using fashion informations. Lastly, symbolic consumption, attitudes toward fashion luxury products, and apparel purchasing behaviors all proven to be significantly different among the 3 groups of materialism.