• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.55 no.10
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• pp.843-854
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• 2022

For the rip current warning system to reduce rip-current accidents, the implementation method producing the risk index was modified. To produce fast response from the warning system based on real-time observations, the method employed the numerical results (i.e., rip current likelihoods according to the possible scenario) obtained in advance. In this study, instead of using the empirical curve-fitting functions of the previous method, the present modification utilized two-dimensional distributions (i.e., wave height and period, wave height and tidal elevation, wave height and direction, wave height and spreading of frequency-directional spectrum) of rip current likelihoods stacked in a database of the system. The wave and tidal observations in 2021 at the Haeundae coast were applied to the modified system, and its performances at several real events recorded in CCTV images were presented.

• Journal of the Korea Institute of Information and Communication Engineering
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.149-157
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• 2008

If we use the microwave of SAR, we can observe ocean in spite of severe weather or night time. The sea surface image of SAR has numerous information about atmospheric phenomena related to surface wind field. The extracted wind information from SAR can be used diversely. In order to extract sea wind speed from SAR image, a generated wind direction from SAR and sigma nought should be input into wind model. Therefore, wind speed can be obtained by input wind direction into CMOD5 Model. Azimuth angle using CMOD5 Model is generated by added $90^{\circ}$ to Look angle which is extracted from SAR data file. A gained wind direction spectrum from SAR image has $180^{\circ}$ ambiguity because of 2D-FFT. This ambiguity should decide to use the location of land, wind direction in field or the result of numerical model. Consequently, wind direction using 2D-FFT is $3^{\circ}{\sim}7^{\circ}$ differences with actual surveying data. Wind speed by CMOD5 model is similar to actual surveying data as below 2m/s.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.14-20
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• 1991

Accurate estimation of irregular wave transformation when the waves propagate from deep water to shallow water region is very important for the design of coastal structures and establishing beach erosion control. In this study. the transformation of directional spectrum is tested numerically using a conservation equation for energy flux and. based upon the joint distribution of wave height. period and wave direction. shoaling effects are predicted in the shallow water region. The applicability of the proposed procedure is verified through comparison with field observation data.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2015.05a
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• pp.89-89
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• 2015

항만 및 어항 구조물을 구성하는 다양한 해안구조물은 파랑의 천수효과, 굴절, 회절, 부분반사, 해저마찰, 쇄파의 영향 등을 고려해야하며 파고 및 파향 등의 해양특성의 검토가 반드시 이루어져야 한다. 실제의 해양파가 방향스펙트럼을 갖는 다방향 불규칙파라는 것은 잘 알려져 있으며, 기존의 해안구조물의 내파설계 또는 천해역의 파랑변형 검토에 있어서도 실제 해양파에 보다 가까운 다방향 불규칙파를 이용한 수리모형실험에 의해 파랑현상을 정도 높게 재현하는 것은 매우 중요하다. 본 연구에서는 실제 해양파를 정도 높게 재현할 수 있는 다방향 불규칙파 조파장치를 사용하여 구조물 전면해역에서의 파랑스펙트럼을 재현하고, 심해에서 발달된 파랑이 천해로 진행될 때 지형에 의해 발생되는 천수변형과 구조물 주위에서 나타나는 파랑변형의 현상을 고려하여 항내로 유입되는 파랑의 분포 특성을 검토하였다. 특히, 다방향 불규칙파로 인한 항내 파고분포 특성을 검토하기 위하여 동일 파랑에 대한 규칙파 및 불규칙파랑을 조파하여 그 결과를 상호 비교하였다. 아울러, 정온수역유지를 위한 월파현상을 수리적으로 재현할 수 있는 3차원 수리모형실험 수행하여 월파현상이 항내정온도에 미치는 영향을 고찰, 해석하여 항만 시설물 계획시 안정한 정박 및 이용에 대한 가능한 정온유지여부를 검토하였다.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.32 no.5B
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• pp.321-329
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• 2012

Two regular progressive wave trains, the directions of which are slightly different from each other, develop a honeycomb pattern of wave crests due to their nonlinear interaction. In the honeycomb pattern of wave crest, the nodal line area, which has very low wave energy, is formed. When the honeycomb pattern is developed near the beach area, rip current evolves through the nodal line area formed in the cross shore direction. In this study, to confirm that the formation of honeycomb pattern of waves near the beach area is a dominant mechanism of rip current occurred at Haeundae beach, we performed a numerical simulation of nearshore circulation at Haeundae beach under an unidirectional and monochromatic wave condition by using a nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. As a result, wave refraction due to topographical characteristics (i.e., submerged shoal) of Haeundae gave rise to several wave trains propagating with slightly different directions toward the beach, and consequently rip currents well developed through the nodal line area of honeycomb patterns of wave crest. In addition, we found that a narrow-banded spectral wave condition (i.e., a swell spectrum) increases more likelihood of rip current than a broad-banded spectral wave condtion based on the simulations employing various wave spectra with an equivalent wave height and period.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.62-67
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• 2010

Swells occurred on the coast of the East Sea on February 24, 2008 caused a loss of three lives and also damaged several west coasts of Japan. The recent increase of swell intensity with number of accidents demands more accurate forecasting of swells in terms of time and location. The swells occurred in February 2008 are hindcasted using SWAN model to examine the accuracy of the model for future forecasting. The model results are compared with ReWW3 data as well as measurement wave data and specially, wave spectrum is analysed by comparing with observed spectrum at two wave stations located in the east coast of Korea. The SWAN model shows similar results with observation data in terms of significant wave heights and swell arrival time but the shapes of wave spectrum are different between model and in-situ measurement data. For further improvement of swell forecasting, more comparison and analysis with observed wave spectrum is necessary and wave directional spectrum data are required to study on the characteristics of swells in the East Sea.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Information and Commucation Sciences Conference
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• 2007.06a
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• pp.227-230
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• 2007

If we use the microwave of SAR, we can observe on the ocean in spite of bad weather, day and night time. Sea surface images on the ocean of SAR have a lot of information on the atmospheric phenomena related to surface wind vector. Information of wind speed which is extracted from SAR images is used variously. Wind direction data and sigma nought value are put in the CMOD which can extract wind information in order to estimate sea surface wind from SAR images. Wind spectrum which is extracted from SAR always presents opposed two points of $180^{\circ}$ because of applying to 2D-FFT. These ambiguities should be decided by position of land, wind direction or numerical model. Previously, we converted into sigma nought after extracting Digital Number from RadarSat-1 SAR using ENVI4.0, thus, it took a long time because every process was manual. Therefore, we converted sigma nought by matlab code after making matlab code. After that, we are extracting wind direction from sigma nought. Now, to decide wind direction needs further study because wind direction has $180^{\circ}$ ambiguity.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.342-354
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• 2008

Some statistical characteristics of deepwater waves along the Korean coast have been investigated using various sources of wave measurement and hindcasting data. For very large waves comparable to design waves, it is recommended to use the average value of the empirical formulas proposed by Shore Protection Manual in 1977 and by Goda in 2003 for the relation between significant wave height and period. The standard deviation of significant wave periods non-dimensionalized with respect to the mean value for a certain significant wave height varies between 0.04 and 0.21 with a typical value of 0.1 depending upon different regions and different ranges of significant wave heights. The mean and standard deviation of the principal deepwater wave direction are presented at the 106 coastal grid points along the Korean coast. For relatively large waves, the probability density function of the directional spreading parameter $s_{max}$ is expressed as a lognormal distribution. The most suitable frequency spectrum in the Korean coast is the TMA spectrum. The probability density function of the peak enhancement factor $\gamma$ is also expressed as a lognormal distribution, with its mean value of 2.94, which is close to the value in the North Sea.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.1191-1201
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• 2014

The rip current warning index function, which estimates the likelihood of dangerous rip current in the real-time rip current warning system operating to help mitigate against rip current accidents at Haeundae beach, was studied. The rip current warning index evaluated as a function of various real-time observations was developed based on Choi et al. (2013b). This study shows a version of rip current warning index improved by including the effect of wave direction and spreadings of frequency-directional spectrum on rip current likelihood. The wave and tidal observations in 2012 at Haeundae coast were applied to the rip current index function, and its performances at several real events found based on CCTV images were presented and analyzed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.88-99
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• 2019

This study presents the results of analysis for the wave data that were consecutively collected from February 2013 to November 2018 at the location of 1.6 km offshore from Namhangjin beach. The water depth at the location is 30.5 m and waves were measured by AWAC (Acoustic Wave And Current meter). By using wave-by-wave analysis and spectral analysis, wave heights and periods were evaluated and then the relationships between the quantities obtained by the two methods were proposed based on linear regression analysis. In addition, monthly and yearly variations of the significant wave height and period, and the peak wave direction were analyzed. Moreover, the relationship between the significant wave height and period was newly suggested. Variability and probability distribution of the significant wave period with respect to the significant wave height were also examined.