• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.22-30
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• 1989

Wave propagation is changed by the effect of shoaling, current-depth refraction and shelter-ing etc. To solve these problems. numerous models have been developed. In the present study, a coordinate system is proposed based on the wave ray equation with the wave number equation including diffraction effects . The governing equation for the study was derived from the mild slope wave equation in non-steady state, including current effects (Kirby, 1986a) and trans-formed into an orthogonal curvilinear coordinate system on the basis of the wave ray equation. To obtain a numerical solution, an explicit finite difference scheme was used, and solved by the relaxation method. This model was tested for various cases: Firstly a submersed circular shoal and a constant unit depth. Secondly a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope, and finally a breakwater harbour with obliquely incident waves on a slope. The model was found to simulate the experimental results and other theoretical results in wave height and wave angle fairy well, and the applicability of the model around an arbitrary shaped coastal structure was also verified. To demonstrate the general usefullness of the present approach , the model is to be applied to a field situation with a complex bed topography.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.276-284
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• 2011

The rip current occurred at Haeundae beach was numerically investigated under directional random wave environment. The numerical simulation was performed using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation model, FUNWAVE which is capable of simulating nearshore circulation since it includes the effect of wave-induced momentum flux and horizontal turbulent mixing. The results of numerical simulation show the time-dependent evolution of the wave-induced nearshore circulation system (including rip current) that are caused by nonlinear transformation of directional irregular waves due to unique topography of Haeundae. From the results, it was found that rip current is well generated and developed where relatively lower wave height and relatively deeper water depth along the longshore direction, and sudden and strong events of rip current were observed.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.37 no.11
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• pp.949-958
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• 2004

A combined experimental and numerical effort is presented for investigation of reflection of irregular waves due to rectangular submerged breakwaters. In the numerical model, the Reynolds equations are solved by a finite difference method and k-$\varepsilon$ model is employed for the turbulence analysis. To track the free surface displacement, the volume of fluid method is employed. Numerical predictions of transmission and reflection coefficients are verified by comparing to laboratory measurements. Very reasonable agreements are observed. The reflection coefficients become stronger in proportion to numbers of submerged breakwaters.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2006.05a
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• pp.1732-1736
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• 2006

여수로는 월류시 한계류 상태와 고유속의 사류상태가 복합적으로 일어나는 복잡한 흐름형태를 가지고 있어 여수로의 단면설계시 수리적인면뿐만 아니라 구조적인 측면에서도 안정해야 하며 경제성이 고려되어야 한다. 그래서 고유속의 흐름을 갖는 여수로에 축소부를 고려할 경우 충격파에 의한 수위상승과 하류의 흐름 교란 등 수리학적인 불안정이 발생하기 때문에 설계시 경제적인 장점이 있음에도 불구하고 단면축소부를 고려하여 여수로를 설계하는 것은 현실적으로 많은 어려움이 있다. 본 연구에서는 단면축소를 고려한 여수로 설계를 위하여 3차원 수치모형인 Flow-3D를 이용하여 충격파로 인하여 발생하는 교차파 저감을 모의하기 위하여 수치실험을 실시하였다. 교차파 저감을 위해 축소부내에서 교차파가 발생하도록 축소부의 각도는 유입흐름 특성을 고려하여 적정하게 설정하였다. 수치실험결과 축소부의 각도가 작을수록 첫번째 교차파의 수위는 크게 발생하지 않으나 단면축소후 교차파가 하류로 전파되어 불안정한 흐름이 연속적으로 발생하고, 과대하게 설정할 경우 첫번째 발생하는 교차파에 의해 중앙부의 수위가 크게 상승하는 결과를 보였다. 또한 본 연구에서는 축소부단면내 회절판(diffractor) 설치전 후의 수리학적 거동을 모의하여 회절판의 흐름개선 효과를 검증하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.12-23
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• 1995

Currents driven by irregular waves are modelled using numerical model with various empirical relations improved. Kitaigorodskii's equilibrium equation is refined to account for shoaling effect and used for checking the breaking condition. In order to compute the bottom friction realistically. equivalent roughness blights are estimated considering the ripple shape and bed load transport which may be significant the surf zone. Two sets of equations are employed to evaluate the ripple shape: one is suggested by Nielsen and the other by Madsen and Rogengaus. Both equations give similar shape of ripples. but Madsen et al. give lower value of ripple factor than Swart suggesting that the equivalent roughness becomes relatively small. Optimization technique is used to determine the proper values for the empirical parameters of $\kappa$-ι equations, and the longshore current velocity is computed using the values of empirical parameters determined by the optimization technique.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.34-44
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• 1992

A numerical model using Hybrid Element Method(HEM) is presented for the prediction of wave agitations in a harbor which are induced by the intrusion and transformation of incident short-period waves. A linear mild-slope equation including bottom friction is used as the governing equation and a partial absorbing boundary condition is used on solid boundaries. Functional derived in the present paper is based on the Chen and Mei(1974)'s concept which uses finite element net in the inner region and analytical solution of Helmholtz equation in the outer region. Final simultaneous equations are solved using the Gaussian Elimination Method. The model appears to be reasonably good from the comparison of numerical calculation with hydraulic experimental results of short-wave diffraction through a breakwater gap(Pos and Kilner, 1987). The problem of requring large computational memory could be overcome using 8-noded isoparametric elements.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2003.08a
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• pp.240-244
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• 2003

파랑의 변형 가운데 천수, 굴절, 회절, 반사를 예측하는 수학적 모형은 크게 두 가지 유형으로 나눌 수 있는데, 첫 번째로 파형경사인 ha(k：파수. $\alpha$：진폭)를 비선형의 매개변수로 하는 Stokes 파랑식이 있고, 두 번째로 상대파고인 $\alpha$/h를 비선형의 매개변수로 하고 상대수심인 kh를 분산성의 매개변수로 하는 천수방정식(Shallow water equation)이 있다. 파랑의 변형 가운데 천수, 굴절만을 예측하고 회절, 반사를 예측하지 못하는 수학적 모형으로는 에너지 이송방정식이 있다. (중략)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Hazard Mitigation
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.65-72
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• 2010

In this study, the effects of urban areas against flood waves due to a dam failure were numerically investigated based on the two laboratory experiments and the predicted water surface elevations at specific points showed good agreement with available measurements. In the first experiment, a relatively high water depth and the delay effect of flow at the front of urban areas are observed. The urban areas may become a large obstacle against smooth propagation of flood wave. In the second one, as the inflow increases, moreover, the water surface elevations can be classified into abruptly decreasing portion and slowly decreasing portion, and the first arrival time to the front of urban area is decreasing with the increasing inflow.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.166-177
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• 2006

The accuracy impact of using high-order Boussinesq-type model as compared to the typical order model is examined in this paper. The multi-layer model developed by Lynett and Liu(2004a) is used for simulating of wave breaking over a shelf region. The nonlinearity of the waves tested, ${k_0}{A_0}$, ranges from 0.029 to 0.180. The overall agreement between the two-layer model and the hydraulic experiments are quite good. The one-layer model overshoals the wave near the breakpoint, while the two-layer model shoals at a rate more consistent with the experimental data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.446-456
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• 2007

Numerical analyses of stem waves, the interaction between incident and reflected waves of obliquely incident regular waves along a vertical wall in a constant water depth, are presented. For the numerical model of the analysis, the two-layer Boussinesq equations developed by Lynett and Liu(2004a,b) are employed. Numerical results are compared with both laboratory measurements and those obtained using parabolic approximation model. The overall comparisons between the results from the two numerical models and the experiments are good. However, the two-layer Boussinesq model is more accurate than the parabolic approximation model as the angle of incident waves increases. In particular, the higher harmonic generation due to the wave nonlinearity is captured only in the Boussinesq model.