• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.151-158
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• 1990

Various factors may contribute on the mixing processes in the surf zone formed by irregular waves. The turbulence motion driven by wave breaking may be one of the major causes, the effect due to spatial variation on current velocity be a secondary one, and the additional process may result from the irregular superposition of radiation stresses or wave breaking dissipation incurred by random breaking waves in a broadened surf zone. In the present study a numerical model of spectral waves and induced currents was developed using a superposition technique with ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ closure for mixing process and applied to a field situation of longshore current generated by spectral waves on a uniform beach. It was found from the application that the surf-zone mixing processes formed by irregular waves can be well described by using ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ equations if the source of ${\kappa}$ is properly represented. The nonlinear energy transfer was also found to have some influence on the velocity profile of longshore current particularly in very shallow water region near coast.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.84-94
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• 2018

In order to overcome the limitation of deterministic forecast, an ensemble forecasting system for regional ocean wave is developed. This system predicts ocean wind waves based on the meteorological forcing from the Ensemble Prediction System for Global of the Korea Meteorological Administration, which is consisted of 24 ensemble members. The ensemble wave forecasting system is evaluated by using the moored buoy data around Korea. The root mean squared error (RMSE) of ensemble mean showed the better performance than the deterministic forecast system after 2 days, especially RMSE of ensemble mean is improved by 15% compared with the deterministic forecast for 3-day lead time. It means that the ensemble method could reduce the uncertainty of the deterministic prediction system. The Relative Operating Characteristic as an evaluation scheme of probability prediction was bigger than 0.9 showing high predictability, meaning that the ensemble wave forecast could be usefully applied.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.30-42
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• 2010

The effects of internal waves on dynamics of hypoxic waters were investigated by numerical simulation by means of a hydrostatic-ecosystem coupled numerical model for Lake Biwa. The numerical model consists of hydrostatic and ecosystem submodels. Numerical simulation was carried out for a period during April 2007 and March 2008, after preliminary numerical simulation for three years. As a result, the numerical model could capture the vertical profiles of the observed water quality. During September 30 and October 21 in 2007, the major internal waves were Kelvin and Poincare waves, the periods of which were 1.63 or 1.77 days and 0.48 days, respectively. Hypoxic waters appeared in bottom boundary layer around October and were still when thermocline locates in upper layer. During late autumn and winter seasons, differences in density between upper and lower layers were reduced and the amplitude of internal waves increased. Hypoxic waters began to move under the effects of internal waves. Movement of hypoxic waters will diminish the habitat for aquatic organisms in deeper waters.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.384-394
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• 1993

A simple surf zone model is presented The present model takes a quite different approach by showing that wave action is conserved in the surf zone. This condition together with the conservation of energy enables us to develop a surf zone model that requires fewer empirical coefficients. The model is capable of predicting surf zone properties and is presented in analytical forms for the two-dimensional gradually-sloped bottoms. The analytical results were compared favorably with available laboratory data. This surf zone model provides the surface current pattern of the vertical circulation model. and consequently, significantly contributes to solving the three-dimensional current pattern.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.259-271
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• 2019

A statistical downscaling method was adopted in order to establish the high-resolution wave prediction system in the East Sea coastal area. This system used forecast data from the Global Wave Watch (GWW) model, and the East Sea and Busan Coastal Wave Watch (CWW) model operated by the Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA). We used the CWW forecast data until three days and the GWW forecast data from three to seven days to implement the statistical downscaling method (inverse distance weight interpolation and conditional merge). The two-dimensional and station wave heights as well as sea surface wind speed from the high-resolution coastal prediction system were verified with statistical analysis, using an initial analysis field and oceanic observation with buoys carried out by the KMA and the Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA). Similar to the predictive performance of the GWW and the CWW data, the system has a high predictive performance at the initial stages that decreased gradually with forecast time. As a result, during the entire prediction period, the correlation coefficient and root mean square error of the predicted wave heights improved from 0.46 and 0.34 m to 0.6 and 0.28 m before and after applying the statistical downscaling method.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2004.04a
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• pp.179-186
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• 2004

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Pohang Old Harbor and Pohang New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Youngil Bay. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macroscale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the developemnt could be easily neglected.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.340-350
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• 2020

A rapid refresh wave forecasting system has been developed using the sea wind on the Korea Local Analysis and Prediction System. We carried out a numerical experiment for wind-wave interaction as an important parameter in determining the forecasting performance. The simulation results based on the seasons of with typhoon and without typhoon has been compared with the observation of the ocean data buoy to verify the forecasting performance. In case of without typhoon, there was an underestimate of overall forecasting tendency, and it confirmed that an increase in the wind-wave interaction parameter leads to a decrease in the underestimate tendency and root mean square error (RMSE). As a result of typhoon season by applying the experiment condition with minimum RMSE on without typhoon, the forecasting error has increased in comparison with the result without typhoon season. It means that the wave model has considered the influence of the wind forcing on a relatively weak period on without typhoon, therefore, it might be that the wave model has not sufficiently reflected the nonlinear effect and the wave energy dissipation due to the strong wind forcing.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.147-156
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• 2003

In order to improve navigational safety of ships, on ocean wave prediction model of high precision within a short time, dealing with multi-directional random waves from the information of the sea surface winds encountered at the planned ship's course, was introduced for construction of ocean wave forecasting system on the ship. In this paper, we investigated a sea disaster occurred by a stormy weather in the past. We analyzed the sea surface winds first and then carried out ocean wave hindercasting simulations according to the routes of the sunken vessel. From the result of this study, we concluded that the sea disaster was caused by rapidly developed low pressure system in Okhotsk Sea and the predicted values by the third generation wave prediction model(WAM) was agreed well with the observed significant wave height, was period, and directional wave spectrum. It gives a good applicability for construction of a practical on-board calculation system.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.202-212
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• 2005

In the design of an of offshore structure located near an underwater shoal, the same amount of attention given to the wave height may have to be put to the wave induced current as well since some of the wave energy translates to the current. In the present study, two numerical models each based on the nonlinear Boussinesq equation and the linear mild slope equation are applied to calculate the wave deformation and secondly induced current around a shoal. The underwater shoal in Vincent and briggs' experiment (1989) is used here, and all non-breaking wave conditions of the experiment with various monochromatic and unidirectional or multidirectional spectral wave incidences are concerned. Both numerical models clearly showed wave induced currents symmetrically farmed along the centerline over the shoal. The calculated wave heights along a preset line also generally showed very nice agreements with the experimental values.

• Journal of the Computational Structural Engineering Institute of Korea
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.601-608
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• 2011

In order to design floating structures, it should be required to evaluate hydrodynamic motions and structural behavior under the wave loadings. Then, structural behavior of floating structures should be evaluated including the effects of wave-induced hydraulic pressure subjected to floating structures. However, there has been a problem to exactly evaluate structural behavior of floating structures since it was difficult to directly connect wave-induced hydraulic pressure resulting from hydrodynamic analysis with structural analysis model. In this study, in order to exactly evaluate structural behavior of floating structures under the wave loading, integrated analysis of hydrodynamic motion and structural behavior was carried out to the large-scaled floating structure. The wave-induced hydraulic pressure resulting from hydrodynamic analysis AQWA were directly mapped to structural analysis model ANSYS bia Workbench interface of ANSYS Inc.. As the results of this study, it was found that the integrated analysis of this study evaluate exactly structural behavior of floating structures under the wave loadings since this method can directly reflect wave-induced hydraulic pressure resulting from hydrodynamic analysis to structural analysis model. Also, as the results of structural behavior evaluation, it was found that the tensile stress on the top slab was maximized at the wave direction of $0^{\circ}$, and tensile stress on the bottom slab was maximized at the wave direction of $45^{\circ}$, respectively.