• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.157-164
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• 2003

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of tide, wind and wave induced currents at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster protection problems. As the steady state spectral wave model could simulate depth induced wave shoaling and refraction, current induced refraction effect, steepness induced wave breaking, diffraction, wind wave growth, and wave-wave interaction that redistribute energy, this would support and compensate the gap in the real field of design where other wave models could not deal and cause wrong estimation. In this study, for that sense, we applied the spectral wave model t the large coastal waters near Gaduck Island where the Busan new port construction project is going on, for better understanding and analysis of wave transformation process. We also compared the simulation results with the calculated from the existing model. From such a trial of this study, we hope that broader and sager use of the spectral model in the area of port design and disaster prevention system come through in near future.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.246-255
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• 1996

A mild slope equation of parabolic type is derived with the revision of the 2nd order differential term and a new approach for the application to large area is presented. The replacement with long waves can overcome the numerical difficulty due to small waves over the system of large grid sizes. No matter how long the replaced wave length is, the refraction and shoaling are maintained by toeing its own wave speed and group velocity, respectively. However, the diffraction effect is modified by means of Eikonal equation. The developed numerical model was applied to the shoal of Ito and Tanimoto (1972) to yield the satisfactory results.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.350-356
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• 1993

We carry out a numerical calculation to understand the nonlinear wave deformation around breakwaters using the Boussinesq equation, which is weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive shallow water equation. A numerical method based on a finite element scheme and fourth order Runge-Kutta algorithm is employed to investigate the diffraction of incident waves by the breakwater. As a computational model, two-dimensional wave flume is treated. The breakwaters is perpendicular to the side wall of a channel. From the numerical results, the wave deformations according to the change of the length and the thickness of breakwaters are investigated. We also investigate the effect of the nonlinearity by comparing the results with the linear solutions.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.71-81
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• 1991

This study deals with the analytical and numerical solution for the combined wave reflection and diffraction near the impermeable rigid upright breakwater, subject to the excitation of a plane simple harmonic wave coming from infinity. Three cases are presented : a) the analytical solution near a thin semi-infinite breakwater, b) the analytical solution near the semi-infinite breakwaters of arbitrary edge angles, $30^{\circ},\;45^{\circ},\;and\;90^{\circ}$, c) the numerical solution near a detached thin breakwater the results are presented in amplification factor and wave height diagrams. Moreover, the amplification factors near the structure(2 wavelength before and behind the structure) are compared for the given cases. A finite difference technique for the numerical solution was applied to the integral equation obtained for the wave potential.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.137-145
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• 2004

Long-term wave distribution at Jeju sea is investigated by a numerical simulation based on the thirdgeneration wave model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore). The Jeju sea which retains relatively high wave energy density among Korean coastal regions is considered to be a suitable site for wave power generation and the efficiency of wave power generation is closely related to local wave characteristics. The monthly mean of a large-scale long-term wave data from 1979 to 2002, which is provided by Korea Ocean Research & Development Institute. is used as the boundary condition of SWAN model simulation with 1km grid. An analysis of wave distribution concentrates on the seasonal variation and spatial distribution of significant wave heights, mean wave directions and mean wave periods. Significant wave heights are higher in winter and summer and the west sea of Jeju appears relatively higher than east's. The highest significant wave height occurs at the northeast sea in winter and the second highest significant wave height appears at the southeast sea in summer, while the significant wave heights in spring and autumn are relatively low but homogeneous. The distribution of wave directions reveals that except the rear region influenced by wave refraction, the northwest wave direction is dominant in summer and the southeast in winter. Wave periods are longer in summer and winter and the west sea of Jeju appears relatively longer than east's. The longest wave period occurs at the west sea in winter, and in summer it appears relatively homogeneous with a little longer period at the south sea.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.223-234
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• 1991

In this paper, the harbor tranquility problem is analysed by an improved boundary integral equation method. The effect of the diffracted wave transformation induced by the breakwater and structures located at a harbor mouth is considered. Partial reflection concept is also used to consider energy dissipation effects. The present model is verified by comparing the results of the model for rectangular and semi-circular harbors with the analytic solutions. they show a reasonable agreement. Also the wave height distribution of the HUPO harbor computed using the present model agree well to those from the previous hydraulic model tests. It also shows a good agreement with the results from the time-dependent mild slope equation model.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.502-510
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• 2007

The present study is to estimate the effect of diffracted wave fields inside a harbor, around harbor entrance and outer breakwater, when a navigation channel is dredged in the vicinity of the a harbor entrance. The wave field of the problem is considered to be two-dimensional plane and the configuration of the submarine pit on the sea bed is designated by a single rectangular type. The numerical simulation is performed by using the solution of the Greet function based on the boundary integral equation. The results of this study is illustrated by applying the normal incidence and partially reflecting boundaries.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1997.10a
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• pp.125-130
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• 1997

외해에서 여러 요인으로 발생한 파가 항만에 접근하면 일부는 연안을 따라 흡수 또는 반사되고 일부는 항만의 방파제를 따라 회절하여 항내로 들어오게 된다. 항내로 입사한 장주기파는 항내의 정상파의 주기와 일치할 경우 공진 현상이 발생하여 작은 입사파에도 큰 반응이 나타날 수 있고 단주기파는 다중 반사 등으로 인해 항만의 특정 지점에서 파고가 증폭될 수 있어서 정박된 선박의 파괴, 부두손상, 하역 등에 지장을 초래할 수 있다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2003.08a
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• pp.254-258
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• 2003

파도가 심해역에서 천해역으로 들어오게 되면 천수, 굴절, 회절 및 마찰손실 등에 의하여 급격하게 변이한다. 따라서 수치모형의 격자는 해저지형 및 파의 변이 정도에 따라 상당히 작은 크기를 사용하여야 하는데 대개 100 m 내외가 되며 때로는 10 m까지 상당히 작은 크기의 격자를 사용하여야 하는 경우도 있다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1998.09a
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• pp.134-137
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• 1998

항내의 파랑장을 구하는 것은 항만설계상 중요하다. 요즈음에는 많은 경비와 노력을 요하는 수리모형실험대신에 다양한 수치해석이 행하여 지고있다. 그러나 회절 및 다중반사, 굴절 등 복잡한 파의 변형을 표현할 수 있는 수치해석 방법으로 여러 가지가 제안되어 있지만 아직 충분한 수준은 아니라고 판단된다. 등수심에 대해서는 이미 확립되어져 있는 Green함수법을 변수심장에 응용하기 위해서 변수심장에 대한 점원파(source waves)의 기본해(unit solution)를 구하는 것이 본 연구의 목적이다. (중략)