• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.421-428
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• 2004

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Pohang Old Harbor and Pohang New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Youngil Bay. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macroscale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the development could be easily neglected.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.165-172
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• 2009

A set of equations for description of transformation of harmonic waves is proposed here. Velocity potential function and separation of variables are introduced for the derivation. The continuity equation is in a vertical plane is integrated through the water so that a horizontal one-dimensional wave equation is produced. The new equation composed of the complex velocity potential function, further be modified into. A set up of equations composed of the wave amplitude and wave phase gradient. The horizontally one-dimensional equations on the wave amplitude and wave phase gradient are the first and second-order ordinary differential equations. They are solved in a one-way marching manner starting from a side where boundary values are supplied, i.e. the wave amplitude, the wave amplitude gradient, and the wave phase gradient. Simple spatially-centered finite difference schemes are adopted for the present set of equations. The equations set is applied to three test cases, Booij's inclined plane slope profile, Massel's smooth bed profile, and Bragg's wavy bed profile. The present equations set is satisfactorily verified against existing theories including Massel's modified mild-slope equation, Berkhoff's mild-slope equation, and the full linear equation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.203-214
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• 2010

This study numerically investigates the wave control of 2-rowed Impermeable Rectangular Submerged Dike(IRSD) with an object of how to control short-period and solitary waves simultaneously based on the Bragg resonance phenomenon that elevates the wave control performance. The boundary integral method using Green formula and the 3-D one-field Model for immiscible TWO-Phase flows (TWOPM-3D) by 3-D numerical wave flume have been used for the numerical predictions for short-period and solitary waves, respectively. These numerical models were verified through the comparisons with the previously published numerical results by other researchers. Through the parametric tests of numerical experiments for short-period waves, an optimum model of 2-rowed IRSD of a lowest transmission coefficient has been found. Furthermore, the performances of 3-D wave control for solitary waves were evaluated for the various free board, crown widths and gap distance between dikes, and have been compared with those of a single-rowed IRSD. Numerical results show that a 2-rowed IRSD with a less cross sectional area than 1-rowed one improves the wave attenuation performances when it is compared to that of single-rowed IRSD. Within the test frequency ranges of the numerical simulations conducted in this study, 2-rowed IRSD with an optimum gap distance shows an outstanding improvement of the wave attenuation up to 58% compared to that of single-rowed IRSD.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.139-147
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• 2021

In this study, waves were defined using the water surface elevation data observed from the HeMOSU-1 and 2 marine meteorological observation towers installed on the west coast of Korea, and correlation analysis was performed between wave parameters. The wave height and wave period were determined using the wave-train analysis method and the wave spectrum analysis method, and the relationship between the wave parameters was calculated and compared with the previous study. In the relation between representative wave heights, most of the correlation coefficients between waves showed a difference of less than 0.1% in error rate compared to the previous study, and the maximum wave height showed a difference of up to 29%. In addition, as a result of the correlation analysis between the wave periods, the peak period was estimated to be abnormally large at rates of 2.5% and 1.3% in HeMOSU-1&2, respectively, due to the effect of the bimodal spectrum that occurs when the spectral energy density is small.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.1-13
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• 1991

A wave prediction model of DP type with shallow water effects is composed. An jntercomparison study of the deep water wave models has been made to clarify the capacity of this model which has source functions by Incur and propagation scheme by Gadd. It is shown that the growth rate of wave energy is rapid and. for asymmetrical wind fields. this model behaves well. In spite of various response pattern for the wind fields the energy distribution gives reasonable agreements with those of other models.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.45-51
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• 2003

The reflection and transmission of submerged breakwater with trapezoidal type are computed numerically using boundary element method. The analysis method is based on the wave pressure function with the contlnuit? in the analytical region including fluid and porous structures. Wane motion within the porous structures is simulated by introducing the linear dissipation coefficient and added mass coefficient. The results indicate that transmission and reflection coefficient are determined due to the change of slope of submerged breakwater with trapezoidal type.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2000.04a
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• pp.215-219
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• 2000

본 연구는 우리나라 연안해역의 파랑특성과 기존에 개발된 방파제의 특성을 근거로 하여 개념만 정립되어 있는 Active Device형 부유식 방파제(그물형 부유식 방파제)의 가능성 검증을 목적으로 수행하였다. 본 논문에서는 그물형 부유식 방파제의 방파효율과 관련한 인자들(부유체의 형상, 홀수, 각부유체간의 연결방식)의 특성을 실험을 통하여 비교 분석하였다. 작은 부유체를 연결한 형태인 그물형 부유식 방파제는 부유체 사이를 지나가는 파랑 에너지를 부유체의 운동으로 소멸시키는 형태이다. 실험결과 부유체가 완전히 Heave 운동만 한다면 상당한 파에너지를 흡수할 수 있음을 알 수 있었다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.340-350
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• 2020

A rapid refresh wave forecasting system has been developed using the sea wind on the Korea Local Analysis and Prediction System. We carried out a numerical experiment for wind-wave interaction as an important parameter in determining the forecasting performance. The simulation results based on the seasons of with typhoon and without typhoon has been compared with the observation of the ocean data buoy to verify the forecasting performance. In case of without typhoon, there was an underestimate of overall forecasting tendency, and it confirmed that an increase in the wind-wave interaction parameter leads to a decrease in the underestimate tendency and root mean square error (RMSE). As a result of typhoon season by applying the experiment condition with minimum RMSE on without typhoon, the forecasting error has increased in comparison with the result without typhoon season. It means that the wave model has considered the influence of the wind forcing on a relatively weak period on without typhoon, therefore, it might be that the wave model has not sufficiently reflected the nonlinear effect and the wave energy dissipation due to the strong wind forcing.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.246-255
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• 1996

A mild slope equation of parabolic type is derived with the revision of the 2nd order differential term and a new approach for the application to large area is presented. The replacement with long waves can overcome the numerical difficulty due to small waves over the system of large grid sizes. No matter how long the replaced wave length is, the refraction and shoaling are maintained by toeing its own wave speed and group velocity, respectively. However, the diffraction effect is modified by means of Eikonal equation. The developed numerical model was applied to the shoal of Ito and Tanimoto (1972) to yield the satisfactory results.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.62-73
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• 2016

The variation of groundwater by wave, tide and precipitation conditions is closely related to the vegetation environment at the natural vegetation and sandy based beach, and it has a significant impact on the vegetation development and ground stabilization. In this study, the water temperature, electrical conductivity, and pressure were monitored at five observational stations normal to the Jinu-do(Island) shoreline of Nakdong river estuary from March 2012 to September 2014 (approximately 799 days) with the aim of measuring the variation in groundwater-table characteristics. The purpose of the study was to identify factors (tide, wave etc.) affecting groundwater-table variation using time series and correlation analysis, and to record spatial variations in the groundwater level and electrical conductivity as a result of storm events. The observational station in the intertidal zone was strongly affected by wave period and tide level. During the storm period, the groundwater-table and electrical conductivity were stabilized at the edge of sand dunes, vegetation, and areas of transition between freshwater and seawater.