• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.382-390
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• 2015

To simulate a complicated hydrodynamic phenomena in the surf zone, the SWASH model is used in Haeundae Beach. The SWASH model is well known as a model competing with the Boussinesq-type model in terms of near shore waves and wave-induced currents modelling. This study is aimed to the detailed analysis of seasonal waves and wave-induced current simulation in Haeundae Beach, where the representative seasonal wave conditions was obtained from hourly measured wave data in 2014 by Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Administration( KHOA). Incident wave conditions were given as irregular waves by JONSWAP spectrum. The calculated seasonal wave-induced current patterns were compared with the field observation data. In summer season, a dominant longshore current toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident waves from the South and the bottom bathymetry, then some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. In the winter season, ESE incident waves generates a strong westward longshore currents. However, a weak eastward longshore currents appears at the restricted east side areas of the beach.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.75-86
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• 1999

호안전면에서의 양빈의 거동이 연구, 조사되며 모래로 이루어진 해변에서의 양빈과 비교하였다. 조건이 서로 다른 6개의 양빈특성이 연구되며 각 조건에 대하여 반복실험이 수행된다. 실험조건에는 모래해변, 호안을 가진 해변, 해안에 직각인 파랑, 그리고 해안에 비스듬한 파랑을 포함한다. 호안을 가진 해안인 경우, 모래입경의 영향이 연구에 포함된다. 또한 호안을 가진 해안에서 모래가 완전히 물에 잠기는 양빈구역의 양단에서 표사이동율을 각각 해변에 직각인 파랑, 해변과 일정한 각도를 이루는 파랑에 대하여 정량화 하였다. 각기 다른 두 개의 표사이동 관계식이 제시되고 검사된다. 비록 약간의 차이가 있더라도 모델에 의한 표사이동율은 실측한 표사이동율과 비교적 잘 일치함을 보여준다.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.177-185
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• 2012

Wave field measurements were made over a period of 18 days to study the spatial distribution of incident wave on seaweed tarm field around Gumil-up Sea, Wando, Korea. These measured data were compared with data from the Geomun-do ocean weather/wave observation buoy. A numerical simulation model that combined the offshore design wave with the seasonal normal incoming wave was used to study the incident wave distribution surrounding a seaweed farm. The results are summarized as follows. (1) On-site wave measurements showed that the major relationship between maximum and significant wave height was $H_{max}=1.6H_{1/3}$. (2) Offshore incident wave energy reaching the coast was greatly influenced by the wind direction. A north wind reduced the incident wave energy and a south wind increased it. (3) The calculated maximum wave height under the design wave boundany conditions was in the range of 4~5 m and the reduction in the incident wave height ratio ranged from approximately 38.1% to 47.6% at Gumil-up Sea. Under normal wave conditions, the maximum wave heights were 3.6~4.0 m in summer and 2.3~2.7 m in winter while the reduction in the incident wave height ratio was about 41.8% to 49.1%. (4) The sea state in the southern area of Gumil-up was the most affected by ocean waves, whereas the sea state in the northern area was very stable. The significant wave ratio in the south was about six times that in the north.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.406-418
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• 2015

The present modified FUNWAVE-TVD model, which is a modification to its previous version 2.1, is applied to solitary wave propagation and is tested against the experiments of Vincent and Briggs(1989) and Luth et al.(1994). The eddy viscosity breaking scheme is used for comparison with the existing study in the case of breaking experiment. The symmetry of wave-induced current is maintained when the modified model is employed to Vincent and Briggs(1989) breaking experiment, but the symmetry of wave-induced current in previous model is not maintained. A better agreement with the breaking experimental data is obtained in the modified model using eddy viscosity breaking scheme than the shock capturing breaking scheme using nonlinear shallow water equation. For comparison with the schemes in the model, the fourth order MUSCL-TVD scheme by Erduran et al.(2005) and the third order MUSCL-TVD scheme using minmod limiter is applied, and the numerical solutions of solitary wave are compared.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.125-131
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• 1997

In order to analyze the feasibility of the drain layer construction method, which is one of the beach protection methods, a hybrid model is constructed by combining the wave model and the seepage flow model. The used wave model is the analytic solution given by Shuto (1972). and the seepage flow model is used by Richards equation which governs the saturated-unsaturated flow in the porous media. It is concluded by the sensitivity analysis of the hybrid model that the most sensitive parameter in the flow field within the beach is the saturated hydraulic conductivity. The developed hybrid model will be efficiently used in the analysis of the parameter when the drain layers are constructed in the beach, if the field datas are obtained more.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 1991.07a
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• pp.220-220
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• 1991

불규칙 파랑장의 frequency spectrum 에 쇄파로 인한 영향을 도입할 수 있는 기법이 제시되었다. 제시된 기법을 심해에서 발달된 방향성불규칙 파랑장이 흐름이 존재하는 해역으로 전이해 갈때 흐름과의 상호작용, 굴절, 천수효과, 및 쇄파로 인해 겪게되는 변화양상을 예측하기위해 두가지 형태의 연안류 즉, shear current, upwelling current 가 존재하는 일정 경사면을 갖는 해역에 대해 각각 적용했다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2003.08a
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• pp.294-297
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• 2003

해양에 존재하는 인공 구조물들은 주로 해수의 흐름(파랑 및 연안류)에 의해 발생하는 현상들을 조절하기 위하여 설치된다. 그 중에서 수중에 위치하여 해수의 흐름과 파의 에너지를 조절하는 잠제의 경우는 미관상으로 수중에 잠겨있어 조망권 확보가 가능하며, 표사이동을 차단하는 수중보 역할, 어초보호 기능의 수행 등 그 기능면에서 매우 실용적인 구조물이라 할 수 있다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1998.09a
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• pp.20-23
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• 1998

현재 해운대 해빈의 사빈이 유실되고 있지만, 이에 대한 연구는 미흡한 상태에 있다. 또한 현장 관측자료의 결핍으로 해운대 해빈 부근의 해수순환패턴과 표사이동을 포함한 해빈변형기작의 규명이 곤란하다. 따라서 해안선 부근의 파랑을 관측하여 실제 현장에서의 연안류 및 연근해 해수순환계의 존재를 밝히고, 그와 관련하여 해안선 부근의 표사이동 양상을 밝히고자 한다. 해운데 해빈에서 파랑의 물입자 운동을 관측하기 위하여 3, 5, 8, 10월에 11, 8, 7, 12개의 정점을 정하여 유속을 측정하였다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2018.05a
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• pp.67-69
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• 2018

해수욕장의 침식 및 퇴적은 입사파랑, 파에 의한 흐름, 조석류 및 바람에 의해 이동하며, 특히 하천을 끼고 있는 해수욕장의 경우 하천으로부터 표사를 공급받게 된다. 이러한 해수욕장의 침식 및 퇴적을 유발시키는 외력인자인 파랑, 조석 및 조류, 하천유량자료를 수집하여 분석하였으며, 해양수산부에서 수행하고 있는 진하해수욕장의 연안침식 실태조사자료를 수집 분석하여 사빈의 침식 및 퇴적변화를 파악하였다.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2009.02b
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• pp.87.2-87.2
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• 2009