• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.22 no.7
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• pp.869-875
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to analyze the long-term wave characteristics and tendencies of coastal waters near Korea based on wave hind-casting modelling. Wave hind-casting modelling was performed with a wind data set from ECMWF (2001~2014), which provides data from 1979 to the present. The results of numerical modelling were verified with observed data collected using wave buoys installed by the Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA) and Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA) in offshore waters. The results agreed well with observations from buoy stations, especially during event periods such as typhoons. The quantitative RMSE value was 0.5 m, which was significant. Consequently, the results of a wave tendency analysis for 14 years (2001~2014) showed an increased appearance ratio for waves of more than 2 m in height at all regional domains. The mean appearance ratio was 0.082 % per year, which implies that coastal waves have been increasing continuously. This coastal wave tendency analysis data can be used to evaluate coastal vulnerability due to recent climate change and the design of coastal erosion prevention structures.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.462-469
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• 2009

This study suggests a general formula of non-cohesive sediment transport rates for waves and currents which is also valid for wave only or current only condition. On-offshore sediment transport rates with the second order Stokes wave in the shallow water are calculated as the pickup rate times the distance. The formula depicts reasonably that high waves move material offshore, and low waves move material onshore. Also the formula, as is the case the waves with long period tend to move material onshore, shows good results.

• Bulletin of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.36-39
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• 1995

본고에서는 고속선의 항행 안전성과 관련된 공통의 문제로서 파랑중 조종성능에 관해서 언급하 고자 한다. 파랑중 조종성능이 문제시되는 것은 선박이 추파(following seas) 또는 추사 파(quartering seas)를 받으면서 고속으로 항해할 때이다. 보통의 속도 범위에서 운항되는 일반 선박중에서도 컨테이너선, 어선 등과 같이 비교적 속력이 빠른 선박은 추사파중에서 선수 동 요가 크게 일어나며, 보침을 위한 조타량이 커짐과 동시에 힁동요가 심하게 일어나는 것으로 알려져 있다. 이러한 불안정 현상은 정도의 차이는 있을지언정 고속선에서도 마찬가지 경향을 보이고 있다. 파랑중 조종성능을 요약하면 추파 또는 추사파중에서의 복원성과 보침성 문제에 귀착된다, 추사파중에서의 복원성 문제는 선체 중심이 파정에 위치할 때 복원력 저하로써 설명될 수 있으며, 이러한 현상은 파장과 선체 길이가 거의 같고 선속이 파속과 거의 같은 조건하에서 일어난다고 알려져 있다. 이러한 조건을 만족하는 선속은 Froude수 0.4 정도로서 고속선의 운항 범위에 미달되는 속도이다. 추사파중에서의 보침성 문제는 브로칭(broaching-to) 현상으로써 설명될 수 있으며, 브로칭 현상은 파장이 선체 길이의 2배 정도이고, 선속과 파속이 거의 같은 조건하에서 일어난다고 알려져 있다. 이러한 조건을 만족하는 선속은 Froude수 0.56 정도로서 고속선의 운항 범위와 일치하는 속도이다. 따라서 본고에서는 고속선을 대상으로 하기 때문에 복원성 문제는 다루지 아니하고 브로칭 현상에 관해서만 간략히 기술하기로 한다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1992.08a
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• pp.91-98
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• 1992

많은 관측자료에서 나타나듯이 심해에서 발생한 파랑은 일반적으로 파군화되는 경향을 가지고 있다. 이와같은 파군과 관련된 많은 공학적 문제들이 제기되기 시작하면서 관심이 높아지고 있다. 따라서 파군의 특성을 해석하기 위한 여러가지 방법이 제시되었으나 파랑의 불규칙성으로 인하여 그에대한 체계적인 이론 정립이 이루어지지 않은 상태에서 몇개의 통계적 해석방법이 사용되어지고 있다.(중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.61-69
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• 2024

Wave conditions are crucial for offshore wind farm design, particularly in determining structural loads and layout. However, there is limited wave hindcasting research for the Wangdeungdo Island area, a potential offshore wind site. This study used the MIKE21 model for a year-long wave hindcast around Wangdeungdo in 2021. Validation showed high reproducibility for significant wave heights with RMSE values of 0.177 and 0.225 and Pearson correlations of 0.971 and 0.970 at Sangwangdeungdo and Buan buoys. Subsequent analysis of the wave characteristics near Wangdeungdo indicated significant seasonal variations and differences in maximum significant wave heights across locations, which are expected to significantly impact the design loads for offshore wind structures.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.73-87
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• 2019

Ocean waves are the driving force for the sediment transport and the beach process. However, wave actions are nonlinear and non-stationary, and the response of the beach is inconsistent in terms of reaction rate and magnitude. Therefore, the beach process is difficult to predict accurately. The purpose of this study is to identify the correlations between the shoreline change and ocean waves observed in the east coast of Korea. The relation of the beach width obtained from video monitoring at five sandy beaches and the wave data obtained from nearby wave monitoring at three points was analyzed. Although the correlations estimated over the whole data sets was not significant, the correlations estimated based on the seasonal period or wave conditions provided more noteworthy information. When the non-exceedance probability of the wave height was greater than 0.99, the wave period and beach width showed strong negative correlations. In case the non-exceedance probability of the wave period was greater than 0.99, the wave height and beach width showed strong negative correlations as well. Furthermore, the erosion rate of the beach width increased when the primary wave direction was close to normal to the coastline. Little significant seasonal or monthly change was found between the beach width and the wave, but it was greatly affected by intensive events such as typhoons. Thus, it is necessary to analyze in detail the wave height or period level explaining the change of beach width for more relevant and practical information.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.225-233
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• 1997

The nonlinear effects on the statistical properties of wave groups in terms of the average nomber of waves in a group and the mean number of waves in a high run is studied in this paper utilizing the complex envelope and total phase function, random variable transformation technique and perturbation method. It tures out that the phase distribution is modified significantly by nonlinearities and it show systematic excess of values near the mean phase and the corresponding symmetrical deficiency on both sides away from the mean. for the case of threshold crossing rate, it turns out that threshold crossing rate reaches its maxima just below the mean water level rather than zero and considerable amount of probability mass is shifted toward the larger values of water surface elevation as nonlinearity is getting profound. Furthermore, the mean waves in a high run associated with nonlinear wave are shown to have larger values than the linear counterpart. Similar trend can also be found in the average number of waves in a group.

• Journal of The Geomorphological Association of Korea
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.1-13
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• 2013

Padori beach is one of the representative composite mixed beach in Korea and shows divert geomorphic landscape change. It belongs to the Taean National Park. The purpose of this study is to clarify movement mechanism of sediments from sediment distribution of Padori beach associated with morphology. In addition, it is to explain morphological landscape change under different wave and tide condition in the composite mixed beach consisting of a dissipative low tide terrace and a reflective beach face with a high tide range of 5 to 7m. The results of this study are: First, the mean grain size of sediments becomes smaller from the south of the beach, where there is a wide wave-cut platform, to the north because gravels are supplied from the wave-cut platform as well as sea-cliff in the south of the beach. A sedimentation pattern of the sandy gravel on the beach face and gravel on the berm, and gradation phenomena of grain size on cross-shore and alongshore direction in the beach can be explained with a pattern of sediment movement, overpassing, in the composite mixed beach. Second, micro-topography on beach face and berm were changed depending on effects of wave height and tide. As a result, in low-wave energy environments, a berm is developed in large size, and beach cusps are formed on the upper beach face, while in high-wave energy environments, a berm is built up in relatively small size, and mixture of sediments occur on the upper beach face.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.119-125
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• 2008

The aim of this study was to determine the characteristics of wave transformation in the shallow water of the Nakdong River estuary due to variations in air pressure, air temperature, wind speed, and wind direction. We analyzed the correlation between weather factors and wind waves in offshore regions near Geoje Island and the Nakdong River estuary in April and May 2007. The weather and wind wave data were obtained from the automatic ocean observation buoy near Geoje Island operated by the Korean Meteorological Administration (KMA). For the estuary region, the wind wave information was the result of field observations, and weather data were obtained from the Busan Meteorological Station. Field observations of water waves in April and May showed that the maximum wave height decreased by about 2.2 m. M oreover, wave height decreased significantly by about 1.3 m due to the reduction in wave energy caused by the water waves propagating from Geoje buoy to the Nakdong River estuary. We conclude that offshore or wind waves coming into the Nakdong River estuary showed considerable height variation due to the prevailing weather conditions, especially wind speed and direction. In particular, headwinds tended to decrease the wave size in inverse proportion to the wind speed.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.251-261
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• 2007

The wind-wave interaction around the Kyung-gi Bay, Korea, was studied using the observed data from ocean buoy at DeuckJeuck-Do from Jan. to Dec., 2005, and from waverider data at KeuckYeulBee-Do on Mar. 19-26 and May 23-28, 2005. Wind-driven surface waves and wave-driven wind speed decrease were estimated from the ocean buoy data, and the characteristics of wave spectrum response were also investigated from the waverider data for the wave developing and calm stages of sea surface, including the time series of spectrum pattern change, frequency trend of the maximum energy level and spectrum slope for the equilibrium state range. The wind speed difference between before and after considering the wave effect was about $2ms^{-1}$ (wind stress ${\sim}0.1Nm^{-2}$) for the wind speed range $5-10ms^{-1}$ and about $3ms^{-1}$ (wind stress ${\sim}0.4Nm^{-2}$) for the wind speed range $10-15ms^{-1}$. Correlation coefficient between wind and wave height was increased from 0.71 to 0.75 after the wave effect considered on the observed wind speed. When surface waves were generated by wind, the initial waves were short waves about 4-5 sec in period and become in gradual longer period waves about 9-10 sec. For the developed wave, the frequency of maximum energy was showed a constant value taking 6-7 hours to reach at the state. The spectrum slope for the equilibrium state range varied with an amplitude in the initial stage of wave developing, however it finally became a constant value 4.11. Linear correlation between the frictional velocity and wave spectrum for each frequency showed a trend of higher correlation coefficient at the frequency of the maximum energy level. In average, the correlation coefficients were 0.80 and 0.82 for the frequencies 0.30 Hz and 0.35 Hz, respectively.