• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.42 no.5
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• pp.524-535
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• 2021

Rapid climate change and oceanic warming have increased the variability of oceanic wave heights over the past several decades. In addition, the extreme wave heights, such as the upper 1% (or 5%) wave heights, have increased more than the heights of the normal waves. This is true for waves both in global oceans as well as in local seas. Satellite altimeters have consistently observed significant wave heights (SWHs) since 1991, and sufficient SWH data have been accumulated to investigate 100-year return period SWH values based on statistical approaches. Satellite altimeter data were used to estimate the extreme SWHs at the Ieodo Ocean Research Station (IORS) for the period from 2005 to 2016. Two representative extreme value analysis (EVA) methods, the Initial Distribution Method (IDM) and Peak over Threshold (PoT) analysis, were applied for SWH measurements from satellite altimeter data and compared with the in situ measurements observed at the IORS. The 100-year return period SWH values estimated by IDM and PoT analysis using IORS measurements were 8.17 and 14.11 m, respectively, and those using satellite altimeter data were 9.21 and 16.49 m, respectively. When compared with the maximum value, the IDM method tended to underestimate the extreme SWH. This result suggests that the extreme SWHs could be reasonably estimated by the PoT method better than by the IDM method. The superiority of the PoT method was supported by the results of the in situ measurements at the IORS, which is affected by typhoons with extreme SWH events. It was also confirmed that the stability of the extreme SWH estimated using the PoT method may decline with a decrease in the quantity of the altimeter data used. Furthermore, this study discusses potential limitations in estimating extreme SWHs using satellite altimeter data, and emphasizes the importance of SWH measurements from the IORS as reference data in the East China Sea to verify satellite altimeter data.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.457-464
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• 2021

Cargo securing safety, which is one factor for the safe operation of car ferry ships, has been applied since 2015 and evaluated by comparing the hull motion and securing load capacity generated by waves. To ensure the safe operation of the 3700 ton class car ferry, it is important to analyze the hull acceleration motion based on the sea wave information of the navigation area to determine the cargo securing load that can prevent the movement of cargo. In this study, the meteorological information of three wave buoys installed in Busan and Jeju area was analyzed for the past 5 years. In addition, the hull acceleration was measured in actual sea conditions and compared to that of numerical simulations. Under the condition of a significant wave height of 2.5 m from Feb to Mar, except typhoon seasons, the lateral acceleration was observed to be 1.5 m/s² in real ship measuring and 1.8 m/s² in numerical calculation. It was analyzed to be less than 40% under general weather conditions compared to the high wave warning using an approximate formula for estimating the hull motion by wave height. The cargo securing safety proposed in this study will be widely used based on the actual measuring acceleration with the sea wave height.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.273-283
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• 2020

Numerical simulations of the storm surge and waves induced by the Typhoon Bolaven incident on the west sea of Korea in 2012 are performed using the JMA-MSM weather field provided by the Japan Meteorological Agency, and the calculated surge heights are compared with the time history observed at harbours along the various coasts of Korea. For the waves occurring coincidentally with the storm surges the calculated significant wave heights are compared with the data measured using the wave buoys operated by the Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency and the Korea Meteorological Administration. Additional simulations are also performed based on the pressure and wind fields obtained using the best track information provided by the Joint Typhoon Warning Center, and the calculated results are compared and analyzed. The waves and storm surges calculated using JMA-MSM wether field agree well with the observations because of the better reflection of the topography and the pre-background weather field. On the other hand, the calculated results based on the weather fields produced using the JTWC best track information show some limitations of the general trend of the variations of wave and surge heights. Based on the results of this study it is found that the reliable weather fields are essential for the accurate simulation of storm surges and waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.351-362
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• 2020

Numerical simulations of the storm surge and waves induced by the Typhoon Maemi incident on the south sea of Korea in 2003 are performed using the JMA-MSM forecast weather field, NCEP-CFSR reanalysis weather field, ECMWF-ERA5 reanalysis weather field, and the pressure and wind fields obtained using the best track information provided by JTWC. The calculated surge heights are compared with the time history observed at harbours along the coasts of Korea. For the waves occurring coincidentally with the storm surges the calculated significant wave heights are compared with the measured data. Based on the comparison of surge and wave heights the assessment of the reliability of various weather fields is performed. As a result the JMA-MSM weather fields gives the highest reliability, and the weather field obtained using JTWC best track information gives also relatively good agreement. The ECMWF-ERA5 gives in general surge and wave heights weaker than the measured. The reliability of NCEP-CFSR turns out to be the worst for this special case of Typhoon Maemi. Based on the results of this study it is found that the reliable weather fields are essential for the accurate simulation of storm surges and waves.

• Journal of The Geomorphological Association of Korea
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.17-27
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• 2012

Coastal dunes help stabilize the coastal landscape and protect the hinterland through dynamic interaction with sand beaches. Sometimes dune erosion occurs during the tropical cyclones, while dune recovery may naturally follow after the event. As the typhoon Kompasu passed through the Korean Peninsula early-September in 2010, it caused a rise in water in association with the storm, wave run-ups, and heavy rains in coastal areas. As the result, coastal dunes along the west coast of Korea were severely damaged during the storm. However, the degree and extent of erosion and recovery of dunes were found to be related with the condition of beach-dune systems including gradients of foreshore and front slope of the dune, sediment supply, vegetation, wind activity, and human interferences. Some dunes retreated landward more and more after the erosional event, while others recovered its original profile by aeolian transport processes mainly during the winter season. Vegetated dunes with pine trees were less recovered after the erosion than grass-covered dunes. In addition, dunes with artificial defense were more eroded and less recovered than those without hard constructions. According to the observation after the severe storm, it is likely that the sand transport process is critical to the dune recovery. Therefore, the interactions between beach and dune must be properly evaluated from a geomorphological perspective for the effective management of coastal dunes, including natural recovery after the erosion by storm events.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.111-118
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• 2004

An ocean buoy was deployed 10 km off Donghae city, Korea at a depth of 130 m to measure meteorological (air pressure, air temperature, wind speed, wind gust, wind direction, relative humidity) and oceanographic data (water properties and currents in the whole column) in real-time. The buoy recorded a maximum wind gust of 25 m/s (10 minutes' average speed of 20 m/s) and a minimum air pressure of 980 hPa when the eye of typhoon Maemi passed by near the Uljin city, Korea at 03:00 on 13 September 2003. The wave height reached maximum of 9 m with the significant wave height of 4 m at 04:00 (1 hour after the passage of Maemi). The currents measured near the surface reached up to about 100 cm/s at 13:00 (10 hours after the passage of Maemi). The mixed layer (high temperature and low salinity) thickness, which was accompanied by strong southward current, gradually increased from 20 m to 40 m during the 10 hours. A simple two layer model for the response to an impulsive alongshore wind over an uniformly sloping bottom developed by Csanady (1984) showed reasonable estimates of alongshore and offshore currents and interface displacement for the condition of typhoon Maemi at the buoy position (x=8.15 km) during the 10 hours.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.594-604
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• 2021

To evaluate the causes of beach erosion in Sinji-Myeongsasimni Beach, external forces, such as tides, tidal currents, and waves, were observed seasonally from March 2019 to March 2020, and the surface sediments were analyzed for this period. In addition, the shoreline positions and beach elevations were regularly surveyed with a VRS GPS and fixed-wing drone. From these field data, the speed of the tidal currents was noted to be insufficient, but the waves were observed to af ect the deformation of the beach. As the beach is open to the southern direction, waves of heights over 1 m were received in the S-SE direction during the spring, summer, and fall seasons. Large waves with heights over 2 m were observed during typhoons in summer and fall. Because of the absence of typhoons for the previous two years from July 2018, the beach area over datum level (DL) as of July 2018 was greater by 30,138m² compared with that of March 2019, and the beach area as of March 2020 decreased by 61,210m² compared with that of March 2019 because of four typhoon attacks after July 2018. The beach volume as of March 2019 decreased by 5.4% compared with that of July 2018 owing to two typhoons, and the beach volume as of September 2019 decreased by 7.3% because of two typhoons during the observation year. However, the volume recovered slightly by about 3% during fall and winter, when there were no high waves. According to the sediment transport vectors by GSTA, the sediments were weakly influxed from small streams located at the center of the beach; the movement vectors were not noticeable at the west beach site, but the westward sediment transport under the water and seaward vectors from the foreshore beach were prominently observed at the east beach site. These patterns of westward sediment vectors could be explained by the angle between the annual mean incident wave direction and beach opening direction. This angle was inclined 24° counterclockwise with the west-east direction. Therefore, the westward wave-induced currents developed strongly during the large-wave seasons. Hence, the sand content is high in the west-side beach but the east-side beach has been eroded seriously, where the pebbles are exposed and sand dune has decreased because of the lack of sand sources except for the soiled dunes. Therefore, it is proposed that efforts for creating new sediment sources, such as beach nourishment and reducing wave heights via submerged breakwaters, be undertaken for the eastside of the beach.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.446-457
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• 2020

Crescentic sand bar in the coastal zone of eastern Korea is a common morphological feature and the rhythmic patterns exist constantly except for high wave energy events. However, four consecutive typhoons that directly and indirectly affected the East Sea of Korea from September to October in 2019 impacted the formation of longshore uniform sand bar and overall shoreline retreats (approx. 2 m) although repetitive erosion and accretion patterns exist near the shoreline. Widely used XBeach to predict storm erosions in the beach is utilized to investigate the morphological response to a series of storms and each storm impact (NE-E wave incidence). Several calibration processes for improved XBeach modeling are conducted by recently reported calibration methods and the optimal calibration set obtained is applied to the numerical simulation. Using observed wave, tide, and pre & post-storm bathymetries data with optimal calibration set for XBeach input, XBeach successfully reproduces erosion and accretion patterns near MSL (BSS = 0.77 (Erosion profile), 0.87 (Accretion profile)) and observed the formation of the longshore uniform sandbar. As a result of analysis of simulated total sediment transport vectors and bed level changes at each storm peak Hs, the incident wave direction contributes considerable impact to the behavior of crescentic sandbar. Moreover, not only the wave height but also storm duration affects the magnitude of the sediment transport. However, model results suggest that additional calibration processes are needed to predict the exact crest position of bar and bed level changes across the inner surfzone.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.14-22
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• 2017

The frequency and scale of natural disasters due to the abnormal climate phenomena caused by global warming have being increasing all over the world. Various natural disasters, such as typhoons, earthquakes, floods, heavy rain, drought, sweltering heat, wind waves, tsunamis and so on, can cause damage to human life. Especially, the damage caused by natural disasters such as the Earthquake of Japan, hurricane Katrina in the United States, typhoon Maemi and so on, have been enormous. At this stage, it is difficult to estimate the scale of damage due to (future) natural disasters and cope with them. However, if we could predict the scale of damage at the disaster response level, the damage could be reduced by responding to them promptly. In the present study, therefore, among the many types of natural disaster, we developed a function to estimate the damage due to wind waves caused by sea winds and waves. We collected the damage records from the Disaster Report ('91~'14) published by the Ministry of Public Safety and Security about wind waves and typhoons in the western coastal zone and, in order to reflect the inflation rate, we converted the amount of damage each year into the equivalent amount in 2014. Finally, the meteorological data, such as the wave height, wind speed, tide level, wave direction, wave period and so on, were collected from the KMA (Korea Meteorological Administration) and KHOA (Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency)'s web sites, for the periods when wind wave and typhoon damage occurred. After that, the function used to estimate the wind wave damage was developed by reflecting the regional characteristics for the 9 areas of the western coastal zone.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.508-517
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• 2009

The real time movement of the caisson was measured when it was open to the waves during breakwater construction. As a result of measurement, no more settlement after the preloading in condition of designed loading was expected but sudden abnormal settlement took place through whole area of the breakwater when waves occurred by typhoon effect. To clarify the reason of this case, wave of the site has been reproduced and the equivalent wave pressure on the caisson was calculated. The numerical analysis of the effect of wave to the ground had been done. Site measurement data is in accordance with the result of numerical analysis.