• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.654-663
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to improve the classic jacket pattern for Korean young men whose chest circumference is 91~94cm, status is 170~175 cm, and drop value between chest and waist circumference is 15. The study was carried out by the following procedures. 1. Through the comparative investigation on the conventional classic jacket patterns of Hyung-sook Lee's, 문화's in Japan, and SMA's and the clothing experiment, the characteristics of every three patterns were found. 2. According to correct the unsuitable point in Hyung-sook Lee's pattern which was found more suitable than other two patterns and to refer to the product size of the ready-made classic jackets for men, the new suitable classic jacket pattern was achieved. 3. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort and one to one comparison was applied to evaluate the new classic jacket pattern by comparing with the Hyung-sook Lee' s jacket pattern. From the result of the sensory evaluation and one to one comparison, it was found that the new classic jacket pattern was more suitable for appearance and comfort. 4. From the result of this study, the suitable surplus of men's classic jacket at present is about 23~24cm on the chest circumference, 31~32 cm on the waist circumference, 14~15 cm on the hip circumference, 13~14 cm on the upper arm circumference, and 14 cm on the wrist circumference and the ease is about 3.5 cm on the armhole circumference. This size is not the absolute size but it helps to make the surplus in any other clothes for Korean young men.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.184-194
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is twofold: it suggests appropriate sizes in menswear slim-fit jackets according to brand zones and number of buttons, as well as jacket patternmaking methods according to jacket styles by surveying and comparing the overall present status of patternmaking and production for both men's slim-fit and classic-fit jackets. The researcher conducted interviews with patternmakers of sixteen brands with prepared questionnaires. Data were analyzed by descriptive statistics using SPSS 12.0. The results of this study are as follows: first, for the production ratios of jacket style, the jacket styles' respective proportions differ distinctly according to brand zone. Second, for a jacket with the same number of buttons according to brand zone, the size in character-casual brand zone (character casual can be defined as high quality brands producing designer style clothes) is slightly bigger than the men's formal suit. As the number of buttons increases, there are increases in the chest, waist and hip circumference; on the other hand, the front neck width and the distance from the shoulder neck point to the bottom of the lapel both decrease. Furthermore, the amount of wearing ease in the chest, waist, upper arm circumference, and sleeve curve is less in slim-fit jacket styles than in classic-fit jacket styles. Fusible interfacing alone is used in slim-fit jackets, while sew-in interfacing is used in combination with fusible interfacing in classic-fit jackets. This research concludes that when slim-fit men's jackets are manufactured, appropriate patternmaking and manufacturing methods should be considered.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.301-314
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• 2017

This study focused on the movement adaptability of $19^{th}$ century classical opera stage costumes. Researchers focused on a basic $19^{th}$ century women's jacket. The study analyzed movement adaptability using ROM (range-of-motion) tests of the upper limb flexion and abduction postures. It developed two research garments to mimic basic $19^{th}$ century style jackets with or without gussets at the axilla. The ROM experiment identified the gusset size as 11cm in length. Experimental postures included upper limb flexion and abduction. The study measured subjective comfort at 8 postures. These postures included the flexion and abduction of the arms and torso. Subjects also evaluated the subjective comfort of the rotation posture of the torso. Researchers evaluated the similarities between research garments' silhouettes and the $19^{th}$ century women's jacket. The study used a 3D virtual fitting system to evaluate fit, and specialists further analyzed fit with photographs and 3D virtual graphics. The results are as follows. The silhouettes of both research garments were similar to the silhouettes of the $19^{th}$ century western women's jacket. The jacket with axilla gusset had a better fit than the basic style jacket. The basic style jacket without the axilla gusset showed limited movement adaptability at the shoulder joint and it caused discomfort at the axilla and elbow. The 3D virtual fit test was not a suitable method for analyzing silhouette similarity.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.35-50
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the result of a market research on men's jacket in their age of 25 to 35, who wear fitted jackets most, and to examine the comparative analysis of pattern and the wearing evaluation between classic jacket and fitted jacket. The results are as follows; Firstly, according to the results of a market research, 32.0% of the target owned fitted jackets, and 28.7% expressed their desire to buy only fitted jackets. This means their concern and preference for fitted jacket with which they could show up young, fresh and slim look are as high as those for classic jacket. Secondly, classic jacket showed the higher value than fitted jacket in such items as chest girth, waist girth, hip girth, sleeve's hem girth, jacket length, shoulder length, side seam length, and across shoulder point length. On the other hand, fitted jacket showed the higher value than classic jacket in back armhole length, front length, collar point length and sleeve's vent length. Thirdly, classic jacket was larger than fitted jacket in 1/2 chest girth(1.0cm), 1/2 waist girth(2.0cm), 1/2 hip girth(1.0cm), back width(0.5cm), front width(0.5cm) and side width(1.0cm). However, fitted jacket was higher than classic jacket in the armhole depth(0.5). Fourthly, the results of appearance evaluation revealed that there was a significant difference in 6 items. In other words, classic jacket was evaluated more appropriate than fitted jacket in such items as back width, back length, back neck depth, chest girth, waist girth and hip girth. And the fitted jacket had a higher value than the classic jacket in shoulder angle item. Fifthly, In the functional evaluation, fitted jacket was evaluated more uncomfortable than classic jacket. And this means that fitted jacket doesn't have a proper ease amount in each part and it has a high armhole depth compared to classic jacket. Therefore, for more comfortable patternmaking of fitted jackets, it would be required a pattern design which reflect men's own shoulder lines and women designers' flexibility that will satisfy both appearance and function.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제21권9호
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• pp.310-320
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• 2020

방탄소년단(BTS)은 전 세계 주류 음악 시장에서 한국의 대중음악을 선도하는 그룹으로 자리매김하고 있으며, BTS가 선보이는 다채로운 패션 스타일은 해외 매체나 대중들의 쇼셜 네트워크에 집중 조명될 정도로 큰 관심을 받고 있다. 본 연구는 BTS의 패션 스타일의 분석을 토대로 그들의 패션 경향을 파악하는데 목적이 있다. 연구방법 및 범위는 BTS 및 BTS의 패션이 미치는 영향력에 관련된 이론적 연구와 함께 최근 5년간 방탄소년단의 이미지 자료를 토대로 한 내용 분석 연구를 병행하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 직선적인 실루엣이 강조된 슈트, 무채색의 활용, 간소화된 장식을 통하여 클래식하면서도 모던한 스타일을 추구하는 것으로 나타났다. 둘째, 둥근 어깨선이 강조된 봄버 재킷, 톤 다운된 스키니 진, 후드 티셔츠, 레터링 패턴, 비비드한 색상을 매치하여 자유분방하고 편안한 감성의 캐주얼 스타일을 선호하고 있는 것으로 나타났다. 셋째, 슬리브리스의 베스킷볼 셔츠, 라운드 네크라인의 베이스볼 셔츠와 반바지, 트레이닝팬츠, 레터링 패턴이 강조된 오버핏 맨투맨을 활용하여 역동적이고 활동적인 스포티한 스타일을 추구하는 것으로 나타났다.