• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.63-71
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• 2004

The human skin is constantly exposed to environmental irritants such as ultraviolet, smoke, chemicals. Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by these environmental facts play critical roles in cellular damage. These irritants are in themselves damaging to the skin structure but they also participate the immensely complex inflammatory reaction. The purpose of this study was to investigate the skin cell protective effect of Juniperus chinensis xylem extract on the UV and SLS-induced skin cell damages. We tested free radical and superoxide scavenging effect in vitro. We found that Juniperus chinensis xylem extracts had potent radical scavenging effect by 98％ at 100 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL. Fluorometric assays of the proteolytic activities of matrix metalloproteinase-l(MMP-1, collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. UV A induced MMP-1 synthesis and activity were analyzed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and gelatin-based zymography in skin fibroblasts. The extract of Juniperus chinensis showed strong inhibitory effect on MMP-1 activities by 97％ at 100 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL and suppressed the UVA induced expression of MMP-1 by 79％ at 25 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL. This extract also showed strong inhibition on MMP-2 activity in UVA irradiated fibroblast by zymography. We also examined anti-inflammatory effects by the determination test of proinflammatory cytokine, interleukin 6 in HaCaT keratinocytes. In this test Juniperus chinensis decreased expression of interleukin 6 about 30％. Expression of prostaglandin E$_2$, (PGE$_2$) after UVB irradiation was measured by competitive enzyme immunoassay (EIA) using PGE$_2$ monoclonal antibody. At the concentrations of 5-50 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL of the extracts, the production of PGE$_2$ by HaCaT keratinocytes (24 hours after 10 mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ UVB irradiation) was significantly inhibited in culture supernatants (p〈0.05). The viability of cultured HaCaT keratinocytes was significantly reduced at the doses of above 10 mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ of UVB irradiation, but the presence of these extracts improved cell viability comparing to control after UVB irradiation. We also investigated the protective effect of this extract in sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)-induced irritant skin reactions from 24 hour exposure. Twice a day application of the extract for reducing local inflammation in human skin was done. Irritant reactions were assessed by various aspects of skin condition, that is, erythema (skin color reflectance) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). After 5 days the extract was found to reduce SLS-induced skin erythema and improve barrier regeneration when compared to untreated symmetrical test site. In conclusion, our results suggest that Juniperus chinensis can be effectively used for the prevention of UV and SLS-induced adverse skin reactions such as radical production, inflammation and skin cell damage.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.820-829
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• 2020

This study was conducted to investigate the anti-oxydant and anti-winkle efficacy as cosmetics ingredient of Lysimachia christinae Hance. Recently, the study of wrinkle improvement of natural products has received continuous interest. so we looked at relationship between reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation and pro-collagen synthesis and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) through this study. L. christinae Hance were extracted with 70% ethanol (LcHE) and distilled water (LcHW), respectively, and the experiment was conducted. LcHE had better ROS inhibition effect than LcHW and showed no toxicity up to 250 ㎍/mL concentration as a result of MTT assay in HaCaT cells, so we selected LcHE and conducted the wrinkle improvement material study. We confirmed that the synthesis of type-1 pro-collagen reduced by UVB is activated through pro-collagen synthesis assay. we confirmed that LcHE inhibited the increase in MMP-1 -3 -9 of MMPs induced by UVB in skin cells through western blot and we also performed real-time PCR to confirm the effect of the extract with dependence of concentration at mRNA levels. Therefore, it is expected that Lysimachia christinae Hance is used as a natural material for cosmetics that can effectively prevent wrinkles and skin aging by UVB.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.49-57
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• 2018

In this study, we investigated the anti-aging effect of Rosa damascena extract containing low molecular glycoprotein (RELG) converted from the high molecular glycoprotein by bioconversion. Free radical scavenging activities were performed by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay. Antioxidant activities ($IC_{50}$) of RELG and the positive control ascorbic acid were $22.6{\mu}g/mL$ and $21.1{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. For skin cells, $15{\mu}g/mL$ RELG showed 28% antioxidant activity by inhibiting the production of active oxygen species induced by ultraviolet ray and hydrogen peroxide. $15{\mu}g/mL$ RELG prevented 10% the cell death caused by stress in human hair follicle dermal papilla cells (HDPC) and reduced 90% the production of active oxygen species. In addition, the glycoprotein showed not only anti-wrinkle effect but also moisturizing effect by 48% inhibition of matrix metallo proteinase-1 (MMP-1) production by ultraviolet stress and $10{\mu}g/mL$ RELG enhanced 10% neutral lipid synthesis with 44% aquaporin 3 (AQP3) expression, which is moisture factor. In conclusion, the RELG can be used as an anti-aging cosmetic material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.137-142
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• 2008

Echinacea purpurea, an indian traditional plant medicine has been widely used as herbal remedy for the treatment of disease such as colds or other infections. However, Echinacea purpurea extracts recently have been applied as a cosmetic ingredient for skin care. We artificially cultured Echinacea purpurea by using the bioreactor culture system for this study. We induced callus from Echinacea purpurea and separated adventitious roots, harvested and extracted after cultured in bioreactors. Previously, several studies have been reported on anti-oxidant and immuno-enhancing effects of Echinacea purpurea extract but other efficacies were not well known. In this study, we investigated the whitening, anti-wrinkle and anti-oxidant effects to know applicable value of tissue-cultured Echinacea purpurea adventitious roots extract(TCEPARE) as a cosmetic ingredient. TCEPARE did not show cytotoxicity until a concentration of 2% and showed the anti-oxidative effect in DPPH and NBT tests. Also, the extract decreased tyrosinase expression in a dose-dependent manner and inhibited melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cells. TCEPARE reduced protein levels of MMP-1, 2 secreted in culture medium or in cell lysates. From these results we suggest that TCEPARE has potential benefits applicable as to cosmetic ingredient for skin care products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.307-317
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• 2019

To develop sustainable new natural anti-aging ingredients from Korean native plants, we investigated the cultivation potential of Nymphoides indica using the eco-friendly aquaponics system, and tested the anti-aging effects from N. indica extracts. N. indica could be grown in aquaponics system using floating leaved deep water culture method, and propagated through rhizome propagation. It was confirmed that the nitrate ($80{\mu}g/mL$), potassium ($63.5{\mu}g/mL$) and water temperature ($25^{\circ}C$) greatly affected the cultivation of the N. indica. In addition, synergistic effects were found when two major components (3,7-di-O-methylquercetin-4'-O-${\beta}$-glucoside & sweroside) were present at more than about $5{\mu}g/mL$. The extract had a significant effect on the recovery of skin cells damaged by environmental pollutant such as $benzo[{\alpha}]pyrene$, ammonium nitrate, formaldehyde. It also suppressed $PGE_2$, $TNF-{\alpha}$ and COX-2, and inhibited the production of MMP-1. Taken together, the results suggested that the standardized extracts of N. indica cultivated in the aquaponics has considerable potential as a new cosmetics ingredient with an anti-aging effect.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.4 s.48
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• pp.439-444
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• 2004

UV irradiation produces free radicals and related reactive oxygen species (ROS), and these are injury to all most of organisms of skin cells and extracellular matrix (ECM). In addition, free radicals and ROS stimulate the overexpression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) that can degrade most components of ECM such as collagen. Since collagen constitutes almost of skin connective tissue, their disarrangement causes wrinkle formation and droop of skin. Therefore, scavenging activity on free radicals, ROS and suppression of MMP-1 is expected to prevent skin photoaging. In this study, to investigate the relationship between photoaging and Draconis sanguis, we examined the effects of antioxidant, in vitro MMP inhibition and expression of UVA-induced MMP-1 in human dermal fibroblasts. Draconis sanguis was found to show scavenging activities of radicals and ROS with the $IC_{50}$ values of $183{\;}{\mu}g/mL$ against 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical and $30{\;}{\mu}g/mL$ against superoxide radicals in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system, respectively. Draconis sunguis inhibited the activities of MMP-1 in a does-dependent manner and the $IC_{50}$ value calculated from semi-log plots was $200{\;}{\mu}g/mL$. Also, UVA induced MMP expression was reduced $74\%$ by treatment with Draconis sanguis, and MMP-1 mRNA expression was reduced in a dose-dependent manner. Therefore Draconis sanguis was able to significantly inhibit MMP expression in protein and mRNA level. All these results suggested that Draconis sanguis may act as an anti-photoaging agent by antioxidation and reducing UVA-induced MMP-1 production.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.373-383
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• 2022

Inflammation caused by active oxygen and the resulting barrier damage have been consistently pointed out as the cause of wrinkle formation. In this study, effective index ingredient search and efficacy analysis were performed to verify the value of use as a functional cosmetic material related to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin barrier improvement, and anti-aging for extracts of four types of Eleutherococcus divaricatus var. chiisanensis (ED), Eleutherococcus senticosus (EN), Eleutherococcus sessiliflorus (ES), and Eleutherococcus sieboldianus (EI) belonging to the Eleutherococcus genus. To identify the effective index composition, the content of the ingredients was measured by high-performance liquid chromatography. The content of eleutheroside E and chlorogenic acid was the highest in ED among the Eleutherococcus genus. As for anti-oxidant activity, DPPH radical scavenging activity was the highest in ED. In anti-inflammatory effects, ED extracts inhibited nitric oxide generation in inflammatory macrophage cells due to lipopolysaccharide by 40% at 100 ㎍/mL. In the case of IL-6 inhibition, which is known as a pro-inflammatory cytokine, ED showed 41% inhibition at 100 ㎍/mL. In addition, filaggrin and involucrin, which are skin barrier-related factors, were increased by 2.5 times and 1.6 times, respectively, in 100 ㎍/mL of ED extracts, and as for the collagenase, which is a wrinkle-related factor, ED extract showed 29% efficacy at 100 ㎍/mL. Thus, these result suggested that ED extract, among the four Eleutherococcus genus, can be used as a cosmetic ingredient for suppressing inflammation in the skin, reinforcing the skin barrier, and reducing wrinkles.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.263-278
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• 2004

Ursolic acid (UA) and Oleanolic acid (ONA), known as urson, micromerol and malol, are pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds which naturally occur in a large number of vegetarian foods, medicinal herbs, and plants. They may occur in their free acid form or as aglycones for triterpenoid saponins, which are comprised of a triterpenoid aglycone, linked to one or more sugar moieties. Therefore UA and ONA are similar in pharmacological activity. Lately scientific research, which led to the identification of UA and ONA, revealed that several pharmacological effects, such as antitumor, hepato-protective, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperlipidemic could be attributed to UA and ONA. Here, we introduced the effect of UA and ONA on acutely barrier disrupted and normal hairless mouse skin. To evaluate the effects of UA and ONA on epidermal permeability barrier recovery, both flanks of 8-12 week-old hairless mice were topically treated with either 0.01-0.1mg/mL UA or 0.1-1mg/mL ONA after tape stripping, and TEWL (transepidermal water loss) was measured. The recovery rate increased in those UA or ONA treated groups (0.1mg/mL UA and 0.5mg/mL ONA) at 6h more than 20% compared to vehicle treated group (p < 0.05). Here, we introduced the effects of UA and ONA on acute barrier disruption and normal epidermal permeability barrier function. For verifying the effects of UA and ONA on normal epidermal barrier, hydration and TEWL were measured for 1 and 3 weeks after UA and ONA applications (2mg/mL per day). We also investigated the features of epidermis and dermis using electron microscopy (EM) and light microscopy (LM). Both samples increased hydration compared to vehicle group from 1 week without TEWL alteration (p < 0.005). EM examination using RuO4 and OsO4 fixation revealed that secretion and numbers of lamellar bodies and complete formation of lipid bilayers were most prominent (ONA=UA > vehicle). LM finding showed that thickness of stratum corneum (SC) was slightly increased and especially epidermal thickening and flattening was observed (UA > ONA > vehicle). We also observed that UA and ONA stimulate epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Protein expression of involucrin, loricrin, and filaggrin increased at least 2 and 3 fold in HaCaT cells treated with either ONA (10${\mu}$M) or UA (10${\mu}$M) for 24 h respectively. This result suggested that the UA and ONA can improve epidermal permeability barrier function and induce the epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Using Masson-trichrome and elastic fiber staining, we observed collagen thickening and elastic fiber elongation by UA and ONA treatments. In vitro results of collagen and elastin synthesis and elastase inhibitory activity measurements were also confirmed in vivo findings. These data suggested that the effects of UA and ONA related to not only epidermal permeability barrier functions but also dermal collagen and elastic fiber synthesis. Taken together, UA and ONA can be relevant candidates to improve epidermal and dermal functions and pertinent agents for cosmeseutical applications.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.227-233
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• 2004

Chronic exposure to solar radiation, particularly ultraviolet (UV) light, causes a variety of adverse reactions on human skin, such as sunburn, photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by UV exposure or other environmental facts play critical roles in cellular damage. And, repeated-UV irradiation activated the expression of the matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) and induced skin irritation. Therefore, the development of effective and safe photoprotectants that can reduce and improve the skin damage has been required. The purpose of this study was to investigate the photo-protective effect of several chinese medical plants (Juniperus chinensis) on the UV -induced skin cell damages. We tested free radical and superoxide scavenging effect in vitro. Fluorometric assays of the proteolytic activities of MMP-1 (collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. UVA induced MMP-1 synthesis and activity were analyzed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and gelatin-based zymography in skin fibroblasts. We also examined anti-inflammatory effects by the determination test of proinflammatory cytokine, interleukin 6 in HaCaT keratinocytes. Expression of prostaglandin E$_2$ (PGE$_2$) after UVB irradiation was measured by competitive enzyme immunoassay(EIA) using PGE$_2$ monoclonal antibody. In the human skin we tested anti-irritation effect on the SLS-induced damage skin after appling the extract containing emulsion. We found that Juniperus chinensis extract had potent radical scavenging effect by 98% at 100$\mu\textrm{g}$/mL. The extract of Juniperus chinensis showed strong inhibitory effect on MMP-1 activities by 97% at 100 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL and suppressed the UVA induced expression of MMP-1 by 79% at 25$\mu\textrm{g}$/mL. This extract also showed strong inhibition on MMP-2 activity in UVA irradiated fibroblast by zymography. In the test of proinflammatory cytokines of human keratinocytes Juniperus chinensis extract decreased expression of interleukin 6 about 30%. The amount of PGE$_2$ by HaCaT keratinocytes was significantly increased at the doses of above 10 mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ of UVB (p < 0.05). At the concentrations of 3.2-25$\mu\textrm{g}$/mL of this extract, the production of PGE$_2$ by HaCaT keratinocytes (24 h after 10mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ UVB irradiation) was significantly inhibited in culture supernatants (p < 0.05). In SLS-induced skin irritation model in vivo, we found to reduce skin erythema and improve barrier recovery after appling Juniperus chinensis extract containing emulsion when compared to irritated non-treated and placebo-treated skin. Our results suggest that Juniperus chinensis extract can be effectively used for the prevention of UV and SLS-induced adverse skin reactions and applied as anti-aging and anti-irritation cosmetics.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.534-546
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• 2023

In this study, we investigated the antioxidant and anti-winkle activity in human fibroblast cell (CCD-986sk) of Persimmon Leaves (PL) as a cosmetic ingredient. As a result of investigating antioxidant activity through electron-donating ability and ABTS⁺ radical scavenging assay, the PL showed concentration-dependent antioxidant activity similar to ascorbic acid, a control group, at a concentration of 1,000 ㎍/ml. As a result of investigating the anti-wrinkle effect through elastase inhibition and collagenase inhibition assay, the PL showed concentration-dependent antioxidant activity similar to epigallocatechin gallate, a control group, at a concentration of 1,000 ㎍/ml. As a result of measuring the synthesis rate of pro-collagen type I and the inhibition rate of MMP-1 in UVB-induced CCD-986sk cells, the control group EGCG showed a 90.2% pro-collagen synthesis rate at 20 ㎍/ml and PL showed an 88.5% synthesis rate at 30 ㎍/ml. In addition, the inhibition rate of MMP-1 of 33.0% and 40.8% were confirmed in EGCG 20 ㎍/ml and PL 30 ㎍/ml, respectively. As a result of measuring the protein expression of pro-collagen type I and MMP-1 in the PL through western blot, it was confirmed that the protein expression of pro-collagen type I increased, and MMP-1 decreased when the PL was treated together compared to the UVB alone group. According to the above experimental results, it is expected to be used as a natural product material for cosmetics by confirming that the PL prevent photoaging caused by UVB stimulation and have antioxidant and anti-wrinkle effects.