• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.25-26
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• 2003

본 연구는 고려중기이후부터 조선시대에 왕이하 서인에 이르기까지 착용하였던 철릭에 대한 것이다. 철릭의 형태는 상하가 연결되고 허리에 주름이 잡혀 있으며, 소매는 단추로 떼었다 붙였다 할 수 있도록 되어 있다. 연구는 문헌자료를 중심으로 조선시대 착장자의 신분과 용도를 살피고, 단국대학교 석주선 기념박물관에 소장된 출토유물 중 측정이 가능한 68점을 실측하여 바느질법과 특징을 분석하였다. (중략)

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.125-137
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• 2021

This study was intended to develop a prototype of new Hanbok Cheollik one-piece based on design extracted through a preference survey on new Hanbok Cheollik one-piece. Through this, it was intended to provide information on patterns that are fundamental to the production of new Hanbok Cheollik one piece. The pattern of the experiment was produced by modifying D pattern, which was selected as excellent in the comparison of commercial Cheollik one-piece patterns. The SPSS 26.0 program was used to analyze the appearance evaluation of patterns. As a result of the 1^st evaluation of appearance and garment pressure, the shoulder, sleeve length, skirt length and sleeve width required modification, reducing the sleeve length by 8.0cm and the sleeve width by 1.0cm in total. The length of the skirt was reduced by 5.0cm and the shoulder end point was reduced by 0.5cm on both sides to modify the shoulder width. As a result of the 2^nd evaluation, the waist area, sleeve width, and skirt wrinkles were required to be corrected, reducing 2.0 cm waist width and 1.0 cm sleeve width and removing wrinkles on the front center and side area. The final pattern was highly appreciated. In future studies, it is thought that research should be conducted through study of Cheollik one-piece pattern according to material and age and the actual wearing experiment according to fabric and age.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.105-115
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• 2018

This paper presents an investigation into Cheollik based on 288 records about it at the homepage of The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty on the Internet. Cheollik was called in diverse names and worn by various social classes from kings to common people, but it was solidified as clothes for military officers toward the latter half of Joseon. Not only did it serve the purpose of clothes, but it also was used for a royal grant, diplomacy, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. It served the diplomatic purposes a lot especially during the reign of King Sejo and King Seongjong. Cheollik was usually made of cotton, hemp, silk, and mixed fabric with silk used most. Its major colors include white, green, red, blue, black, purple, grey, and yellow with white used most. The fabrics and colors of Cheollik became simplified toward the latter half of Joseon. Silk was most used in Cheollik for a royal grant, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. White was most used in Cheollik for kings' visit to royal tombs or their participation in ancestral rites. There were limitations with the selection of materials according to the social status and situations. It was stipulated that only Sa and Ju were used to make Cheollik for Dangsangguan and Danghaguan. Cheollik made of silk was banned for country residents and merchants. The color of Cheollik for Danghaguan was changed to blue and then red. Of military officers, only those who had a Gonsu title or higher were allowed to wear Cheollik made of silk in various colors. In the end, Cheollik was abolished for its low convenience and efficiency during the rule of King Gojong.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.10
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• pp.1695-1706
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• 2001

본 연구는 조선시대 남자 포제(포제에 나타난 복식이미지의 구성요인을 밝히고 남자포제 유형별(철릭, 답호, 직령, 도포, 창의, 주의), 시기별(전기, 중기, 후기) 복식이미지를 알아봄으로서 조선시대 남자포제가 가진 복식이미지를 밝혀 현대 전통복식 디자인에 응용될 수 있는 기초적인 자료를 제공하고자 한다. 의복 자극물은 남자 평상복을 중심으로 하여 조선초기(1477년∼1543년)의 남자 포제로는 철릭, 답호, 직령 3점과 조선중기(18세기)는 도포, 창의 2점, 조선후기(17세기 후기∼20세기 초)는 주의 1점으로 하였고, 당 시대의 정화한 복식이미지를 살펴보기 위해 유물을 복원 제작하여 사용하였다. 이것을 모델에게 착장시켜 슬라이드로 제작한 후 자극물로 제시하였다. 의미지분척도외 구성은 자유언어연상법으로 형용사를 수집하여 23쌍의 형용사쌍을 구성하였다. 패널단은 대학생 남·여 총 600명으로 하였고 자료분석은 SAS을 이용하여 요인분석 분산분석 등을 사용하였다. 1. 조선시대 남자 포제의 요인구조는 품위성 요인(25.2%), 활동성 요인(l4.2%), 관할성 요인(37.9%), 현시성 요인(6.7%), 경연성 요인(5.7%)으로 구성되었으며, 이들 5개 요인의 전체변량 62.7% 중에서 품위성 요인, 활동성 요인, 관할성 요인이 전체변량의 50%를 넘어서 이 세 요인이 남자 포제에서 기본적으로 느껴지는 중요한 요인임을 알 수 있다. 2. 조선시대 남자 포제 유형별 복식이미지의 차이를 알아본 결과, 철릭은 가장 부자연스러운, 주름있는, 곡선적인, 부드러운, 특이한 이미지의 포제로 나타났으며, 답호는 가장 절제된, 직선적인 딱딱한, 특이한 이미지로, 직령은 가장 비활동적인, 답답한, 전통적인 이미지로 도포는 가장 품위있는. 관할한 이미지로 창의는 다른 포제에 비해 평범한, 단순한, 이미지로 주의는 가장 품위 없는, 일상적인, 활동적인, 단순한, 순수한 이미지의 포제로 평가되었다. 모든 남자포제가 전통적, 순수한 이미지의 포제로, 철릭을 제외한 모든 포제가 단순한 이미지로 나타나 조선시대 남자 포제가 공통적으로 가지는 이미지는 단순하고 순수한 이미지를 가지고 있음을 알 수 있다. 3. 남자 포제의 시기별 복식이미지에서는 조선전기(철릭, 답호, 직령)의 포제는 관할성 요인이 높은 의례적인, 관할한, 특이한 이미지로 평가되었고 조선중기(도포, 창의)의 포제는 품위있는, 절제된, 풍성한 이미지로 평가되었으며, 조선후기(주의)의 포제는 활동적인, 단순한, 직선적인 이미지로 나타났다. 따라서 시대별 남자 포제의 이미지는 시대적 여건과 상황에 따라 변화되어 왔으며, 시대에 따라 추구하는 이미지가 달랐다는 것을 알 수 있다.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.04a
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• pp.21-22
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• 2001

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2005.05a
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• pp.56-56
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• 2005

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.242-256
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• 1999

A Study on the construction of Chulik in the early 16th century based on the shrouds from the excavated grave of Kim, Heum-Jo(1461∼1528) is reported in this paper. This paper first reviews the general construction methodology found in the shrouds from other graves in early 16th century revealed from a report on Chulik from the excavated grave of Kim, Heumjo. This paper finds that there exist at least three different Chulik forms according to the ratios between upper portion and lower portion in Chulik. The upper portion to the lower portion ratio grows with time. Among the three forms, this Chulik of interest falls in the first one of the three forms. This new finding of the chronological evidence for the first category of the three forms provides us the latest chronology for the first category, which is up to the year 1567. This paper also shows that the second and the third categories of Chulik in early Chosun Dynasty lasted until 1580\`s and until 1590\`s, respectively. Several remarks on construction methodology found in the Chulik of interest are also reported in this paper.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.49 no.8
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• pp.63-71
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• 2011

The excavated costume of Jangheung Ma's included jeogoris, skirts, and pants, and a jungchimak(중치막), jangot(장옷), cheolrik(철릭), and jikryeong(직령). Most of the items were made of silk and cotton. The clothes for shrouding were plainer than those found in other regions. The method of sewing was mostly broad-stitching, but backstitch, hem tacking and decorative saddle stitching were also used. Unlined clothes were made with on old method of sewing(옛쌈솔), which was used mainly in the early period of the Chosun dynasty. Dating of the excavated costume can be determined by examining the collar of the Korean coat or jacket, the shape and form of sleeve, the size of the sub, and the form of gusset. Straight, diagonal, and broad sleeves were the most commonlyused shapes of sleeve in the middle period of $17^{th}$ century. In the latter period of Chosun, the trend moved towards a single-sub.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.548-555
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze the patterns of commercial Cheollik dresses by size analysis and wearing evaluation. Six kinds of commercial Cheollik dress patterns distributed on the market were selected and classified into two types group, A type group(A-1, A-2, A-3) consisting of flat type sleeve pattern and B type group(B-1, B-2, B-3) consisting of three-dimensional type sleeve pattern depending on the sleeve type. The size of the Cheollik dress pattern was analyzed, and wearing evaluations of the appearance, movability were carried out. Cheollik dress pattern was made in various size and many patterns were produced in the form of omission of components such as seop. It should be based on the understanding of the form and composition of the traditional Cheollik for pattern development. As a result of the wearing evaluation, A-2 showed the highest evaluation in the appearance and movability evaluations in type A. B-2 was the highest evaluation in appearance evaluation in type B. But in the evaluation of the movability, B-2 received the lowest evaluation because of little allowance. Therefore, the allowance in clothes should be considered enough for the movability. The result of this study can be provided as a basic data for the development of Cheollik dress pattern reflecting modern trend and the traditional beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.226-236
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• 2000

The mutual relation dynamics between the chulik and the Po for man in the period of chosun dynasty. The objectives of this study are to find out the mutual relation between the chulik and the Po for man-symeui, danryeong, changeui, jikryeong-, te change of chulik, and the ideas that made this change. Conclusions are decribed as followes: 1. The pattern of chulik and symeui is same, and they consist of bodice and skirt's length of the chulik was 1 : 1.3∼2 and it is effected by symeui. And symeui was effected by pratical structure of the chulik. 2. The functions of the chulik were the underwear of danryeong and the upperwear as military uniform. And then the length of chulik was shorter than danryeong in the early period of shosun dynasty. The sleeves were changed as large as danryeong in the late period of chosun dynasty. It is assumed that the changes were to be a functional underwear and to appear authority as upperwear. 3. Chulik as the underwear was hardly worm in the 17th centuries, and changeui was widely enjoyed instead of it. The reason of this change is that the pragmatism was emphasied in that period. 4. Chulik was widly worm instead of court dress, until the mid of 17th century after war. It was effected by outer factor of the war. And jikryeong was widly worm instead of chulik in the late period of chosun dynasty. It shows that military officers wanted to appear authority.