• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.617-628
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• 2001

Cotton and silk fabrics dyed with brazilein(Caesalpinia Sappan), berberine (Phellodendron Amurense), and shikonin(Lithospermum Erythrorhizon) were stored in the air, in the water, and under the ground for about one year. The change of the color, the flexibility, and the breaking strength were measured at the intervals of few weeks. The results are as follows; 1. The color of the fabrics changed most extensively in the fabrics that were under the ground, then in the order of the ones that were in the water, and in the air. The color of the fabrics changed to the achromatic color over the time. 2. The flexibility change among the dyes was similar. All the fabrics became stiff under the ground and in the water over the storage time. 3. In general, cotton and silk fabrics dyed with berberine showed better strength retention than the fabrics dyed with other substances. 4. The strength retention of cotton fabrics was high in the order of the fabrics which were in the air, in the water, and under the ground. Only minuscule change occurred in the strength of the cotton fabrics. The strength of the fabrics that were in the water and under the ground decreased remarkably after 30 weeks and 20 weeks respectively. 5. The strength retention of silk fabrics was high in the order of the fabrics which were in the air, under the ground, and in the water. In the air, the strength on silk fabrics decreased rapidly after 30 weeks. In the water, the strength of silk fabrics decreased more rapidly than that of the cotton fabrics. Under the ground, the strength retention of silk was higher than that of cotton.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.337-343
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to investigate the optimal dyeing conditions and human-friendly properties of the extract from the branches of Alnus firma tree which is widely used for forestation and to provide basic information for quantification and commercialization of natural dyeing by discovering such as dye material. The optimal dyeing conditions, as a result, were shown at 100% of dye concentration, $90^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature and 40 minutes of dyeing time. In terms of dye uptake depending on the mordanting methods, it showed the best result in order of Fe, Sn, Cu and Al at pre-mordanting while found strong in order of Fe, Cu, Al and Sn at post-mordanting. Color fastness to washing and dry cleaning was found strong at grade 4-5 and fastness to light was rated at 2. The grade of change in color to rubbing and perspiration was good at 4-5. In aspects of functional properties, it showed excellent results of 98% deodorization rate at 120 minutes of dyeing time, 96.1% UV protection rate and 99.9% bacterial reduction against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneuminiae. It is considered, therefore, the extract from Alnus firma tree is of great value as an eco-friendly natural dyestuff.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.412-423
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• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2012년도 제46차 학술발표회
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• pp.90-90
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• 2012

극세섬유는, 1970년대 말부터 일본의 합섬업체들이 천연소재인 Silk를 모방하기 위해 개발을 시작하였으며, 개발된 섬유의 굵기가 0.5d(1denier=1g/9,000m)이하인 것을 말한다. 이후 극세사에 대한 끊임없는 노력으로, 1980년대에는 천연스웨이드 풍의 인조피혁의 제조가 가능한 0.1d이하급 초극세사가 N/P(Nylon/Polyester) 복합방사된 형태로 개발되었으며, 일본, 및 한국 등에서 이들 소재로 제조된 직편물 제품이 첨단 고부가소재로서 호황을 누려왔다. 이러한 초극세사는 다양한 형태로 발전되어왔는데, 해도형(Islands-in-a-Sea Type), N/P(Nylon/PET), P/N(PET/Nylon) 등이 대표적인 형태이며, 가공공정 중에서 분할이 되면서 그 특성을 발현한다고 하여 분할사, 형태에 따라서 N/P 분할사라 하기도 한다. 최근들어 이러한 N/P 분할사는 기존의 의류용 용도뿐만 아니라, Wiping Cloth, 극세사 타울, 항진드기용 침장 등 다양한 비의류용 소재로도 확대 전개되고 있으며, 이렇게 다양화 되어가고 있는 용도에 따른 공정별 최적 가공 방법에 대한 연구가 진행 중이다. 사가공 공정에 있어서는 텍스쳐링 방법이 적용되기도 하는데, 가장 보편화된 텍스쳐링 방법으로는 DTY(Draw Texturing Yarn), ATY(Air Texturing Yarn) 등의 형태가 있으며, 이러한 텍스쳐링 방법은 물성에 민감한 N/P 분할사의 강도, 신도, 분할도에 영향을 미치게 된다. 본 연구에서는 기존의 텍스쳐링 방법이 아닌 Fancy사 형태로 사가공을 하였으며, 직물로 제직하고, 분할 가공하여 직물로써의 물성까지 분석하였다. Fancy사는 색이나 형의 변화로 디자인효과를 준 실을 말하는데, 심사, 부사, 압사로 이뤄지며 의장사, 장식사 등으로 불려지기도 한다. 주요 공정을 보면, 크릴형성용 부사를 500-600T/M으로 가연한 연사를 얻는 제1공정과, 이 가연된 부사와 심사를 합사하는 제2공정 및 합사된 크릴의 뒤틀림을 방지하기 위하여 압사로 크릴을 고정하여 주는 제3공정으로 이루어진다. 사용된 N/P 분할사는 NP30/36dty, NP50/36dty를 사용하였으며, 부사의 오버피드 및 피드되는 사에 따라 각각 8종, 7종의 Fancy사를 제조하여 섬도(Denier), 강도(Tenacity), 신도(Elongation)를 측정하였다. 또한, 이들 사들로 제직 및 분할가공을 하여 인장강도, 인장신도, 인열강도, 마모강도, 공기투과도 등의 물성과 중량, 두께를 측정하였으며, 온도, NaOH 농도, 시간 등의 분할 가공조건에 따른 직물의 인열강도 변화도 측정하였다. 이렇게 공정별 조건에 따른 물성의 변화분석을 통해 추후 N/P의 제품화 전개에 도움이 되고자 하였다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.100-111
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• 2019

In this study, the dyeing properties and functionalities of Crataegi fructus extract were investigated for the purpose of application to new natural dye resources. The effects of dyeing conditions(concentration of dye, dye bath temperature, dyeing duration and dye bath pH) and mordanting on dye uptake and color changes were also examined. The study also estimated the colorfastness, antibacterial properties, and ultraviolet protection properties of the dyed and mordanted silk fabrics. The dye uptake increased in tandem with the dye concentration and dye bath temperature. The highest K/S values were obtained at the following conditions: a dye concentration of 100%(v/v), a dyeing period of 60 minutes, a dye bath temperature of $90^{\circ}C$, and a dyeing pH of 3. The colorfastness of the material when dry cleaned or rubbed ranged from good to excellent and fastness to light was rated at grade 2-3. The change in the color grade when exposed to washing was not good; however, the stain of washing fastness was good at a range of 4-5. In regards to the functional property aspects, the dyed and mordanted fabrics exhibited excellent results with a 99.9% reduction rate, and excellent ultraviolet protection factors.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.788-799
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• 1999

This study was performed to investigate the effect of mordants on the dyeability colorfastness to light and to laundering and biological properties of mordanted and natural-dyed cotton and silk substrates. Natural red dyes were extracted from Caesalpinia Sappan L. (Sappan wood) and Rubia Akane Nakai (Madder) by boil water Five different compounds of Al, Cr, Cu, Fe and Sn were used as mordanting agents. The result of this study are sumarized as follows ; 1. In the of the fabrics mordanted and dyed with sappan wood K/S value increases and λmax shifts to the longer wavelength as mordant concentration increases. Color of the fabrics dyed with sappan wood and madder change to redder bluer and lighter after mordanting. 2. As the number of repetition of dyeing-mordnating process increase the color of the dyed fabrics tend to be redder bluer and darker. Mordanted dyes with Al and Sn make chroma increase. The quantity of mordant absorbed in the silk fabric increase as mordant concentration increase. More Fe is absorbed in silk than Cr is. 3. After being exposed to light the fabrics dyed with sappan wood and madder change to less red Fe and Cu mordanting yeild better colorfastness to light than others does. Natural-dyed fabrics exposed to light tend to be faded and whitened in CIELAB chromaticity co-ordinates. So we might trace back the original color of ancient faded fabrics by changes in color of natural dyes. 4. After washing the colors of natural dyes change to more blue, Fe and Cu mordanting give better colorfastness to wash than others do. 5. The soil-burial cotton is more susceptible to mildew and rot than the silk is. Antimicrobial activity of the natural-dyed cotton can be enhanced by Cu and silk can be enhanced by Cu and Cr mordanting respectively.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.17-22
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to obtain the basic element of patterns, which is the motif, from the existing art works and use it to create and simulate a variety of patterns to show the practical use of the computer. Natural dyed works of geometric shapes like squares and 1/4 of circles, each dyed with a different natural dyes, were produced and motifs were extracted. Then using the 4D box in Adobe Photoshop v.6.0, the developing pattern change and simulation effects when using different patterns and different repetition settings were examined. Observations were made as the motifs were replicated. Different patterns like a diagonal line, a square and a circle appeared. In order to find out the effects according to the changes, the motifs from work's square portions, circle centre, and the composition of eight motifs were extracted and used. The repeated patterns according to the extracted motifs simply showed that in the case of just repeating and arranging, square patterns appeared. By replicating and arranging, the motif and the allophone were matched and patterns with regular lines were formed, like a twill, pointed twill line. By setting the direction to Y and X in the repetition methodes, a typical half-drop arrangement or a brick pattern arrangement were formed according to 1/4, 2/4, 3/4, 1/3, or 2/3 in changes. Also the steepness of the slope changes quickly or in turn slowly as the rhombus shape appears. However in the case of a composed motif, an ogee pattern appeared. Lastly, by 3-D mapping patterns like a slant line, pointed twill patterns, diamond patterns, and the repeat patterns of a motif with a circle and a line combined, and a circle motif, an optical illusion could be observed.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권6호
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• pp.929-941
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• 2014

Dyeability of Indian natural dyestuffs to fabrics was investigated. Indian dyestuffs are more inexpensive than domestic dyestuffs purchased at oriental medicine stores. We studied the dyeability of madder, marigold, and pomegranate imported from India on cotton, silk, and wool fabrics. Dyebaths of a combination ratio of 80:20, 60:40, 50:50, 40:60 and 20:80 of madder and marigold, fabrics with orange colors were dyed. To evaluate the dyeability of dyed fabrics, K/S values, Munsell color values and CIE L, a, b, ${\Delta}E$ were measured. The dyeability of fabrics dyed in dyebaths of pH 4 and pH 7 were higher than pH 10. The dyeability in pH 4 was better than pH 7. Silk fabrics dyed with madder and marigold showed good dyeability and wool fabrics showed good affinity in madder dyebath and fair affinity in marigold dyebath. Cotton fabrics showed fair affinity in a marigold dyebath of pH 4 and pH 7. Cotton fabrics dyed with a 60:40 ratio of madder and marigold showed 4.76YR of Munsell color value. Silk Fabrics dyed with a 40:60 ratio showed 4.76YR and wool fabrics dyed with 20:80 ratio showed 5.57RY. The ratios produced the closest colors to 5.0YR of orange. This result indicated that marigold had a more powerful effect on cotton fabrics while madder was stronger on wool fabrics. Fading grades of washing colorfastness of wool and silk fabrics dyed in mixed dyebaths were higher than 3.5-4.0 and higher than homogeneous dyebaths. Staining grades of washing colorfastness of all dyed fabrics were between grades 3.5-5.0. Colorfastness to dry-cleaning was high as grades 4.0-5.0 in all of dyed fabrics. Colorfastness to light of dyed fabrics showed a fair grade of 3.5-5.0; in addition, wool fabrics showed lower grades than silk and cotton fabrics.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.331-336
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• 2017

Bacteria exist everywhere and continuously come into contact with daily surroundings and humans. Super bacterium methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus, resistant to methicillin, has recently appeared. The morbidity and rate of death associated with super bacteria infection has increased. This study investigated the antibacterial activity of fabrics naturally dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa leaves extract against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus. Fabrics were left for 15 min in a natural dyeing solution prepared by extraction from C. obtusa leaves using 11.3% (o.w.f) with a fixed liquor ratio of 1:22 at $40^{\circ}C$. The dyeing process was conducted using three different mordants; subsequently, the K/S value of the dyed fabrics increased in the order of None < Cu < Fe < Al. The color fastness property of the fabrics to washing, dry-cleaning, and rubbing was found to be excellent and ranked in the 4-5 grade. The color fastness to light of natural dyeing is low in most cases and has the problem that the dye color soon becomes bleached. Yet, in most cases cloth dyed with retinispora leaves, the color fastnezz to light was good with a third to fourth grade. Non-mordant fabrics, aluminum mordants, and copper mordants also showed better antibacterial properties (99.9% reduction) against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus, compared to the control fabrics. The dyed fabrics showed the same antibacterial activity even after three washes. The results highlight the strong potential of fabrics naturally dyed with C. obtusa-extract as a medicinal material with excellent antibacterial function against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.64-74
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to find purchase appraisal standard and post-purchase satisfaction for natural dyeing products. The data used for this study were collected from the women in their from 20's to 50's who are living in the regions of Busan, Ulsan, and Gyeongnam in Korea. The questionnaire of 537 copies was used for a statistical analysis. To analyze data, 2-test, t-test, Cronbach's a test, factor analysis, ANOVA, Duncan test, regression analysis, etc. were carried out. A used statistical package was SPSS 14.0. The analysis results were as follows. The purchase appraisal standards for natural dyeing products were identified as practicality and reliability, suitability of use, symbolic property of status, design property, and convenience of buying. As the analysis result for purchase appraisal standard according to the demographic characteristics, the purchase appraisal standard according to most demographic characteristics showed significant difference. The factors of post-purchase satisfaction for natural dyeing products were verified as product modification and durability, design and price, hygienic property and product quality. As the analysis results of post-purchase satisfaction for natural dyeing products according to demographic characteristics, the post-purchase satisfaction according to demographic characteristics showed significant difference. The factors affecting post-purchase satisfaction were verified as product quality, kinds of item, color change, product lifespan, color change, etc. Consequently, because the purchase appraisal standard of natural dyeing product is very various, it is necessary to enhance post-purchase satisfaction of natural dyeing products by reflecting these factors in advance at the product development stage.