• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.111-124
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• 2015

This study inferred the symbolism of shaman's costume in China from shamanism and types of shaman's costume in Naje, Deokgang-hyun, Guiju-seong, China through field survey. Shamanism in China has complicated aspects due to negotiations with other culture for a long time while maintaining its own consistency based on ethnicity. Symbolism of shaman's costume in Naje, Guiju-seong, China is observed as follows. First, the shaman's costume in China appears differently from every Jangcha in relation to the position of god appearing in Jangcha when Tolosa takes the position of god as a symbol of sex and god. In Naje of China, the most important shaman's costume indicating the position of god has a unique mask for every deity. It communicates that Tolosa wearing a costume appropriate for the god of wine shall become the god in that Jangcha. Second, the shaman's costume in China has something to do with Yin-Yang and the five elements theory of Taoism as a symbol of shamanism visio of the universe and system of reason. Most of Tolosas hosting Naje are men but dress up as women by wearing Nagun looking like a skirt. Nagun is usually red, the color of Yang, which symbolizes that by wearing such costume that takes color of Yang, Tolosa expels an ominous thing by balancing yin and yang and taking god's strong power. Third, Tolosa takes an eight-breadth Nagun, as a symbol of people. An eight-breadth worn by Tolosa in Naje strengthens the spirit of union and fight of the Tujia nationality who live in Deokgang-hyun, Guiju-seong through folk legends. In this course, a symbolic meaning of the national spirit has been provided on an eight-breadth Nagun, a shaman's costume.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.199-214
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• 2020

The study investigates Atlas fabrics, the Ikat weaving method used by the Uygur People in Xinjiang, China. Based on domestic and foreign papers and other literature, different cultural characteristics of Ikat fabrics from various regions are compared. Following a theoretical investigation, characteristics of fabrics from the Indian Patola, Indonesian Ikat, Japanese Kasuri, and Uzbekistan Adras are summarized and compared with the characteristics of pattern, color, and manufacturing process of Atlas silk from Xinjiang China (also an Ikat fabric). The results are as follows. First, although the weaving process used for Ikat fabrics differs from country to country according to different national cultures, lifestyles, colors, patterns, and usage methods, they are all Ikat dyed fabrics. Therefore, they are all regarded as precious objects symbolizing a certain social status, and are used as a gift for special occasions, such as weddings. Second, the form of the pattern varies. Indian Patola has clear outlines and regular patterns, while the patterns of Japanese Kasuri are mainly inspired by folk life ideas. Indonesian Ikat contains influences from indigenous tribes, and Uzbekistan's and China's Atlas textiles are influenced by geography, religion, and national culture, including bright colors and pattern designs inspired by plants, musical instruments, and geometric figures. Finally, the patterns and colors of Xinjiang Atlas fabrics present strong ethnic characteristics. Unlike the Uzbekistan fabric which is mostly influenced by Islam, human and animal patterns would not feature in Xinjiang Atlas patterns, which mostly consist of long strips, repeated in a neat and orderly form.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.455-476
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• 2022

The aim of this study was to develop Jiangxi Nuo masks using 3D digital fashion design technology and suggest various ways to utilize traditional culture based on the characteristics of Nuo masks, a traditional Chinese artifact of intangible cultural significance. The researchers conducted a literature review to gather information about Nuo culture and masks that could represent Jiangxi. Features of the masks were analyzed and classified. The result are as follows. First, the symbolic characteristics of Jiangxi's Nuo masks can be divided into those based on their origin and history, the user's social status, and the notions of primitive beliefs of the chosen people, such as naturism and totemism. Second, Nuo masks' splendid decorations convey meanings such as luck, the bixie, longevity, wealth, and peace in the family. Third, playfulness in mask-making is about dismantling the original form of the mask, re-creating it through application. Fourth, the masks express primitiveness mostly by conserving the wood's original color or material. The initial masks carved to represent images of figures aptly deliver the primitive forms and images of Nuo culture. In this study, Nuo masks were developed and produced using the 3D digital technology CLO 3D by adopting the expressive characteristics and applying design methods such as asymmetricity, exaggeration, and modification. The results of this study demonstrate the possibility of creating diverse as well as economical designs through the reduction of production.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.880-897
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to apply the traditional Chinese fretwork on the 'Faux Chenille' textile work method in a way of enhancing the decorative features of patterns and developing the fashion design. As for the method, it works on the historic background and advancement of the fretwork and it refers to the bibliographies pertinent to the traditional Chinese geometric pattern. The result are as follows. First, pure cotton and 100% rayon are mixed to make it feasible to produce the texture for the material to be tender and enhanced, and in the process of washing and drying the Faux Chenille textile. The Faux Chenille textile is an important material that is required to select materials with great absorption capability as the most effective material to re-visualize the lines and patterns by sustaining the diagonal lines. Second, the fretwork is designed to process the basic formation for 90° angle with the sense of unlimited extensive line and changes with straight line. It has been confirmed that, if the angle that controls the Faux Chenille textile and the tailoring interval are well aligned, the expression of traditional geometric pattern would be effective and it may be expressed in contemporary style. Third, through the fashion design application by utilizing the Faux Chenille textile of the fretwork, it is confirmed that the contemporary application of the traditional culture could be expressed uniquely and creatively while it is affirmed that the western technique and Asian culture can be blended in harmony.

• Journal of Korea Multimedia Society
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.70-78
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• 2019

The smart festival costume developed in this study maximizes the design elements by attaching electronic device to clothing, and uses voice, movement, and light sensor to utilize as expression elements. In addition, as a way to maximize cultural exchanges between Korea and China, smart festival costume was developed by applying smart clothing technology to the traditional costumes of both countries. and it was exhibited for 10 days at the 'Andong International Mask Dance Festival 2018'. The smart festival costume has the effect of multiplying the dynamism and excitement of the festival by the use of colorful lighting and it has been evaluated that the experience of wearing traditional costume of both countries contributes greatly to promote international cultural exchange. However, since smart clothing is inconvenient to wear due to the use of electronic products, meticulous research for consumer safety is required for practical use. Smart devices is expected to utilize for the development of traditional culture resources and the fashion industry in the future.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.254-267
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• 2019

Clamp resist dyeing is a resist dyeing technique in which a fabric is sandwiched between two or more pieces of woodcarving and then a pattern is expressed by dyeing. Records from nine years of King Heungdeok's reign during the Unified Silla dynasty show that the use of the clamp resist dyeing technique was banned for different garments. This was only for garments of YOOKDUPUMNYEO (六頭品女) or OHDUPUMNYEO (五頭品女). Given this, it can be assumed that clamp resisted fabrics were widely used, and the technique had been established during the Unified Silla dynasty or before. However, only the term can be found in the records. Neither its definition nor how this technique was used is explained. Also, it is difficult to assume the types and features of clamp resist dyeing due to a lack of materials. A small number of relics from the Goryeo dynasty still remain, though. Craft techniques have developed through international exchanges and have changed according to respective nations' circumstances including politics, economics, society, and culture. Hence, this research analyzed documents and relics from China and Japan, two countries neighboring the Republic of Korea, and studied the different types and features of clamp resist dyeing techniques. Clamp resist dyeing techniques were divided into monochromatic or multichromatic according to the number of colors that represented patterns, rather than according to the respective nations' features. They were also classified into mono, bilateral symmetry, or vertical-bilateral symmetry according to the structure of the patterns. Through the study of examples of inherited or reproduced dyeing techniques in China and Japan, it was confirmed that different engraving techniques, including relief, openwork, intaglio fit for the feature of a pattern and the number of colors, were applied in order to vividly represent patterns on fabric. Using small flower pattern clamp resist dyed fine tabby in Amitabha of 1302, the only relic showing its patterns and colors in Korea, as the experiment subject, this research successfully reproduced a clamp resist dyeing technique through a successful experiment based on the basic materials from the dyeing technique case study. Due to the significance of the experiment on a clamp resist dyeing technique that stopped its transmission and shows the features of the technique, this study is expected to be a basic resource that can be used for future reproductions of multichromatic clamp resist dyeing techniques. Also, it is expected to be helpful in widening and recreating the world of Korean pattern dyeing with modern dyeing techniques.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.62-76
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• 2015

The purpose of this study was to analyze and compare the shapes, colors, patterns, and hairstyles of Qipao worn by heroines that were reconstructed over times, in a Chinese TV Drama set in the 1930s and televised in 1980 and remade in 2007. We investigated how the Qipao was reinterpreted. The results were as follows. First, in televised in 1980, Qipao borrowed the characteristics of Jing Pai Qipao, which became popular in Beijing. Jing Pai Qipao was characterized by a roomy and loose silhouette that does not expose a body line, Chinese traditional 5 colors, simple plain patterns and Chinese traditional flower patterns. For hairstyle, twist and permanent wave styles that were popular in the Republican Period were very common. On the other hand, in televised in 2007, Qipao was a Hai Pai style that was very popular in Shanghai in the 1930s. Hai Pai Qipao was characterized by a tight silhouette fitted to the body, various colors such as purple and beige other than the 5 colors, Western flower patterns and modern geometric patterns. Hairstyle was changed from bang hair to a permanent wave. Second, while had a modern reinterpretation of Jing Pai Qipao that was very popular in Beijing, rather than Hai Pai Qipao that became popular in Shanghai in the 1930s, used Hai Pai Qipao that was popular in Shanghai in the 1930s. In particular, demonstrated how the mass media should reinterpret past clothing by thoroughly studying and reflecting Shanghai Qipao in the 1930s and adding viewers' aesthetic taste of 2007 without damaging an original. Moreover, it confirmed that clothing can function as language and symbol within the mass media by connecting the color and pattern of Qipao with characters' traits and the plot. It suggests that was more advanced than filmed in the 1980s. The findings of this study might provide useful data to costume designers who reinterpret costumes from a new angle.