• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.9
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• pp.1-15
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• 2009

This study aimed to create a new costume design suitable for publicizing our traditional patterns in the world by using the traditional patterns of Northeast Asia region. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. First, China is characterized by a strictly fixed configuration and a realistic description, Japan a simplistic modality and an abstract-geometrical pattern, and Korea a eclectic type, whole-pattern, and part-pattern. This study aimed to make the pattern by using harmoniously these characters. Second, Korea, China, and japan have many similarities concerning a symbolism and a type of pattern. In the modern fashion, they often use dragon patterns, various flower patterns like peony, plum blossom, or mum, and geometrical patterns. This study focused on expressing patterns which contain the ornamental symbolism of Oriental Look, aside from an existing symbolism, and show a traditional sentiment of Northeast Asia. The method for expressing traditional patterns usually included weaving, dyeing, embroidery, or gold foil. Although these methods have been used in all the three nations, even rubbed metal foil and patchwork have been widely used in Japan.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.48-68
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• 2024

In recent years, with the international spread of traditional Chinese culture, traditional auspicious patterns have been used idely in modern textile design. In particular, a bat pattern has the same pronunciation as 'fu' in Chinese. It symbolizes good luck and longevity. It has auspicious meanings such as happiness, prosperity, wealth, longevity, and good luck. This study aimed to explore how cultural elements could be utilized in modern textile design by incorporating the traditional Chinese bat pattern into scarf design. Through literature research and case analysis, we aimed to understand the historical background and design characteristics of the bat pattern and develop it into a textile design suitable for modern scarf design to promote modern reinterpretation of traditional culture and cultural integration. From a design perspective, the shape of the bat pattern was analyzed to derive five main shapes and characteristics (symmetry, verticality, repetition, totality, and relativity). Based on this, 10 patterns were created by combining them with popular styles of modern scarf patterns. In addition, five product designs were completed considering 23/24 Pantone trend colors, 24spring/summer fashion trend colors, and silk scarf pattern characteristics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.29-44
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• 2014

This thesis aims to compare the representative costume patterns of the Chinese Qing dynasty and contemporary $18^{th}$ century French costumes. As a research method, qualitative research was performed to compare and analyze the patterns of the flowers, the birds and pagoda shown in Qing dynasty and France. The results are as follows: The Chinese flower patterns used the embroidery technique for 3-step gradation colors to decorate flowers with less than 10 petals. Also, the forms of the flowers were large and simple in China. The flower patterns of the 18th century France is more similar to those of Qing dynasty than to the traditional French flower patterns. They used the drawing technique for the gradation colors and completed the work by embroidery. In the case of bird patterns, the crane on menswear, and the phoenix on women's wear were applied to signify the symbolic feature of the Chinese symbolism. On the other hand, those in France were used solely for the division of the gender. As a result the clear form of the birds in China contrasted with the unclear forms of birds in France. During the influx of mandarine square to France from China, the application of crane and phoenix according to gender seems to be stressed emphatically without considering their symbolic meaning. In light of the pagoda pattern, Qing dynasty showed interest only in the form of pagoda, denoting the simple two-tier structure without detailed description. Whereas in France, the pagodas were three or four tiers, with gorgeous colors and much more detail than those of Qing dynasty. In conclusion, the main determinants of influences on the patterns of France from China would be forms, colors, constructions and technique of embroidery, along with the disregard for symbolic significance.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.40
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• pp.243-270
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• 2007

Linked pearls pattern expressed on textiles have no limited scale or shape when manufacturing, so they are free in expression. And from the design, material, and color we can analogize the social culture of that age. Oriental linked pearls pattern was started from the Sasanian Persia and introduced through the Silk Road, so it is closely connected with the East and the West culture. This study will consider from the 5th century to the 10th century; the mural costume of the West Central Asia, the ancient textiles excavated from the Sinjiang and Qinghai area of China, and the linked pearls pattern which are collected at Shosoin, Japan. And from this study, will concentrate on clarifying the linked pearls pattern's condition of the cultural exchange between the East and the West and it's structural variation process. The design of linked pearls pattern delivered to the East through the Silk Road is differed by area. For example, in the Western Pamir Plateau, where the ancient Sogdians mainly lived, the excavated linked pearls pattern's subject were deer or cassowary variated from the West Asian motif. But the ones excavated from Kucha Xingang had Chinese motifs added so they showed Chinese characters or Buddhist Bodhisattva image instead of Helios. Like this, the appearance of new patterns, which were accompanied by structural variations, gradually deviated from the standardized pattern of the Sasanian Persia. And this structural variation process has relations with the construction and arrangement method of various patterns of the after ages. The foliated floral Spray, which is placed at the lozenge space of linked pearls' space, had developed into ogival - shaped pattern (Neunghwamun). And the prevalence of geometrical structure pattern after the 10th century and the unfolding method of Tapjamun which is arranging unit pattern in order, are similar to the linked pearl pattern. In brief, linked pearls pattern accompanied by technical improvement let us understand the polished artistic code from its expression, and has importance in showing universal pattern beyond region and culture.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.25
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• pp.31-56
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• 2012

This paper were reviewed on some problems in the early history of Chinese dance written by scholars of contemporary China. Results of the review, were found the following problems; First, In describe to the early history of Chinese dance, contemporary Chinese scholars do not distinguish myths, legends and historical materials, so the history of ancient Chinese dance makes to mystery, thus, eventually will cause a lack of truthfulness. Second, In order to fill the lack in the early history of Chinese dance, the Chinese scholar often use a drawing of earthenware or mural. However, in certain cases, the same drawing by the other observer to be interpreted differently. In this case, if use as evidentiary material, there is a problem. Third, Most contemporary Chinese scholars usually say that the origins of dance is labor. It is to have originated from materialistic historical view can be said. However, in ancient China, but rather about the origin and function of dance there were diverse views. Therefore, this aspect should be cautious.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.47 no.3
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• pp.86-107
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• 2014

The large stone cist tomb 8501 of Lingcheng prefecture Xiaoheishigou, according to Chinese chronology, was built during the late Western Zhou period. However in this tomb not only Chinese Zhongyuan style bronze ceremonial vessels but also indigenous style bronze ceremonial vessels and instruments and hybrid bronze ceremonial vessels with a mixture of both indigenous and Chinese styles were excavated in large numbers. The bronze ceremonial vessel assemblage of Xiaoheishigou, in comparison with the decorum regulations and bronze cauldron and coffer system of the Chinese Zhongyuan region of the same time period, belong to that of the lowest status category. However, in contrast to the lowest class category tombs of the Chinese Zhongyuan region, in this tomb, with the exception of cauldrons and coffers, the remaining food and wine vessels of the assemblage match the standard of emperors and feudal rulers of vassal states. This is reinforced by the burial of musical instruments. Of the bronze ceremonial vessels of Xiaoheishigou large stone cist tomb 8501, the indigenous and hybrid styles, in consideration of manufacture technology seem to have been manufactured locally. However, the form, pattern and also the standards of the Western Zhou style bronze ceremonial vessels are identical to those of the Chinese Zhongyuan region and therefore it is clear that they were manufactured in Western Zhou. The reason for these precious ceremonial vessels which were manufactured and used in the many individual vassal states of the Chinese Zhongyuan region being buried in Xiaoheishigou, seems to have been the result of economic exchange and friendly political relations between the Xiaoheishigou and other groups rather than these vessels having been plundered by the Xiaoheishigou group. A distinct cultural sphere existed between the Upper Xiajiadian culture and Western Zhou which interacted frequently with both sides.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.9
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• pp.89-106
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• 1985

The peony patterns represent one of decorative designs with their fortunate and auspicious implications. The pattern emerged first from T'ang Dynasty, flourished during the periods of Sung and $Y\ddot{u}an$ in China, and then was introduced to Korea and Japan. For the purpose of systematizing the development of the pattern, this thesis is about the process of formation and various changes in peony patterns. It examines in general the literatures and the craft works, such as textiles, lacquer wares, chinas and porcelains, and metals. The characteristics of peony patterns are dealt respectively in this study about T'ang, Sung, $Y\ddot{u}an$, Ming and Ch'ing Dynasties of China, Shila, Korea, Chosun, of Korea, and Nara, Haian, Kamakura, Muromachi, MomoYama, Aedo of Japan.

• The Bulletin of The Korean Astronomical Society
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.43.2-43.2
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• 2017

전라남도 강진에서 발견된 영기(令旗)라는 책에는 병영에서 사용된 별자리 깃발에 관한 기록이 남아있다. 영기는 군중에서 군령(軍令)을 전달하기 위해 사용한 것으로 고종 대에 이르러 깃발에 28수(宿) 별자리를 처음으로 사용한 것으로 알려져 있다. 승정원일기와 일성록에 의하면 군영에서 사용한 28수 별자리 깃발은 1874년 중앙관 진무사(鎭撫使)의 수장이었던 김선필(金善弼)이 처음 만들어 사용한 것으로 기록되어 있다. 본 발표에서는 국내에 처음 보고된 28수(宿)가 그려진 영기를 소개하고 영기의 별그림을 한국과 중국의 전통 성도와 비교한 내용을 발표하고자 한다. 영기에는 28수 별자리 외에도 28 동물과 기하학적 문양이 그려져 있는데 이에 대해서도 간단히 소개하고자 한다. 영기 별그림은 실제 성도와 비교해 많은 오류가 확인되는데 이를 교정하여 새롭게 도안한 별자리 깃발도 함께 소개하고자 한다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.31-39
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• 2002

The analysis revealed that the pattern represent the function of written language, the Miao's idea of nature as tie object of worship and exorcism, and their primitive thinking. The patterns are chiefly embroidered collars, shoulders of blouse, waist blind and hem lines of skirt. The design of patterns are animals and plants and geometrical figured. Most of patterns are dragon, fishes, birds, butterflies, which are liked by the Miao people. The patterns are highly imaginative and true to life, and are made with strong national and popular features.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.73-84
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• 2015

Analysis of design preference to Korean and Chinese casual style were made targeting Chinese female students in Korea. The following conclusion was derived from the result of final 300-copy survey data, using SPSS 18.0 program. The data were analyzed by frequency, t-test, chi-squre independence test, ANOVA and Scheffe test. Firstly, when comparing change of design preference before the stay in Korea with after the stay in Korea, the biggest change in their preference was character casual style, while the least change was easy casual wear. In terms of duration of stay in Korea, the biggest change was from the group of over 3 years, and in the order of the group of 1-3years, and then lastly less than 1 year, which suggests that the longer the duration of stay, the bigger the change. When comparing preferred clothing color before the stay in Korea with after the stay in Korea, both before and after the stay in Korea had the highest preference for achromatic colors. The frequency of change was mostly from achromatic color to other colors. In the preferred clothing pattern, 'plain' was their favorite one before the stay in Korea, while it turned to 'nature pattern' after the stay in Korea, followed by 'plain' one. In the textiles, the most preferred one was 'cotton', before and after the stay in Korea. However, their preference for cotton was lower after their stay in Korea than before the stay in Korea, and instead there was more preference for 'silk', 'synthetic fiber', and 'other' sources.